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THE 


GUNSMITH’S MANUAL; 

A COMPLETE HANDBOOK 

FOR THE 

AMERICAN GUNSMITH, 

BEING A 

PRACTICAL GUIDE TO ALL BRANCHES 

OF THE TRADE. 


By J. P. STELLE and WM. B. HARRISON. 


Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1883, 
By JESSE HANEY & CO., 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at "Washington. 


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I N D EX. 




CHAPTER I. 


History or the Gun. 

Discovery of Gunpowder... 

The First Fire Arms. 

Earliest Hand Guns. 

Prejudice Against Fire Arms 

The First Rifle. 

The Arquebus. 

The Match Lock. 

Musket, Petronel. 

The Wheel Lock. 

The Pistol. 

The Snaphaunce. 

The Flint Lock. 

Important Improvements.... 

Advance of the Rifle. 

The Percussion Lock. 

The Breech Loader. 


PAGE 

9 

9 

9 

10 

10 

11 

11 

12 

13 

13 

14 

14 

15 

15 

16 
16 
18 


CHAPTER II. 


How Guns are Made .. 22 

Gunsmith, Gunmaker. 22 

Gun Barrels, Best Materials for. 23 

On Making Gun Barrels. 24 

Finishing and Proving. 25 

Action, Stock and Final Finish. 26 

On Making the Rifle. 27 

Plain Steel Barrel Guns. 27 

CHAPTER III. 

Guns Now in Use . 29 

Gun Defined.,. 29 

The Old Flint Lock Gun. 29 

The Percussion Lock Gun. 31 

On the Muzzle Loaders. 33 

The Breech Loaders. 34 

Variety of Breech Loaders. 36 






































VI 


INDEX 


PAGE 

CHAPTER IY. 

Pistols Now in Use. 37 

Old Style Pistols. 37 

The Deringer. 38 

The Pepper Box. 38 

Old Colt’s Revolver. 38 

Sharp’s Four-shooter. 39 

The Breech Loading Cartridge Pistols. 39 

CHAPTER Y. 

On General Gunsmithing. 41 

The Gunsmith and his Trade. 41 

Fitting up a Shop. 41 

j 

f 

CHAPTER YI. 

Taking Apart, Cleaning and Putting Guns Together. 43 

To Take the Gun Apart. 43 

To Clean the Gun When Apart. 44 

To Put the Gun Together. 45 

CHAPTER YII. 

Tools Required for Work, Their Cost, etc. 47 

The Alcohol Lamp. 47 

The Alcohol Lamp, Self-blowing. 47 

Anvil. 48 

Barrel Planes. 48 

Bevel. 49 

Beveling Clamp. 49 

Blacksmith’s Tongs. 50 

Blow Pipe. 50 

Breeching Taps. 51 

Callipers and Dividers. 51 

Chisels.... 51 

Cutting Pliers. 51 

Drill Stock. 51 

Tile Cord. 52 

Tilting Square. 52 

Floats.. 52 

Forge....'. 53 

Glue Pot. 53 

Gouges. 53 

Grind Stone. 54 

Hack Saw. 54 

Hammers. 54 








































INDEX. 


• • 
VII 

PAGE 

Handles. 55 

Hand Shears. 55 

Hand Vice. 55 

Iron Clamps. 55 

Mainspring Vise. 56 

Marking Gauge. 57 

Screw-cutting Tools. 57 

Screw Wrench. 57 

Soldering Copper. 57 

Screw Drivers. 57 

Pliers. 58 

Wing Dividers. 58 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Tools, etc., and How to Make Them. 59 

The Alcohol Lamp. 59 

A Self-blowing Lamp. 61 

Breech Wrenches. 63 

The Bit Stock. 64 

Bottoming Tools. 65 

Chequering Tools. 66 

Nipple Wrenches. 67 

Portable Forge. 67 

Vice Appendages. 69 

Shanks of Tools. 72 

CHAPTER IX. 

The Work Bench. 74 

Material for the Work Bench. 74 

How to Make the Work Bench. 75 

Putting the Vise in Place. 76 

Place for Drawer. 76 

The Gun Brace. 76 

How to Deaden the Noise of Hammering. 77 

CHAPTER X. 

On Working in Iron. 79 

Hand Forging.... 79 

Welding. 79 

Hardening Iron by Hammering. 80 

Case-hardening. 81 

A Good Way to Case-harden. 82 

Material for Case-hardening... 84 

Another Way to Case-harden. 85 

Another Formula for Case-hardening.. 86 









































ym 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

Still Another Formula. 87 

To Chill Cast Iron. 87 

Another Mode. 87 

To Soften Wrought Iron... . 87 

Alloy for Filling Holes in Iron. 87 

To Harden Iron for Polishing. 88 

CHAPTER XL 

On Working in Steel. ..... 89 

Hand Forging Steel. 89 

Welding Steel. 89 

Tempering,. 91 

To Restore Burnt Steel. 93 

Annealing Steel. 94 

To Blue Steel. 94 

To Remove Blue Color From Steel. 94 

Tempering Knife Blades. 95 

The Lead Bath for Tempering. 96 

Test for Good Steel. 97 

Etching on Steel. 97 

CHAPTER XII. 

On Working in Silver, Copper and Brass. 99 

To Forge Silver. 99 

To Polish Silver. 99 

Light Plate for Copper or Brass. 99 

To Clean Silver. 100 

To Work Copper. 100 

To Work Brass. 101 

To Cast Brass. 101 

To Brass Iron. 102 

To Clean Brass.!.. 102 

To Solder Brass. 102 

CHAPTER XIII. 

On Working in Wood. 104 

The Woods Most in Use. 104 

Wood for Gun Stocks. 105 

CHAPTER XIV. 

On Gun Stocks. 108 

Form of Gun Stocks. 108 

Dimensions for Single Gun. Ill 

Dimensions for Double Gun. Ill 






































INDEX. 


IX 


PAGE 

Laying Out Gun Stocks.Ill 

How to Stock a Gun. 114 

The First Operation in Stocking. 114 

Setting in the Barrels. 115 

Measure for the Stock. 116 

The Butt. 116 

Setting in the Locks. 116 

Setting in the Trigger Plate. 117 

Setting in the Triggers. 117 

Secure Fastenings. 118 

Fitting Bolt Loops. 118 

Hints for Finishing. 119 

Fitting the Break-off. 119 

To Let in Escutcheons. 120 

How to Cast Tips on Fore End of Stock. 120 

Chequering. 122 

Coloring Gun Stocks. 122 

To Stain a Maple Stock. 128 

Another Method. 128 

To Color a Maple Stock Brown. 123 

To Color a Reddish Brown. 123 

To Color Black.. 124 

Rosewood Stain. 124 

Black Walnut Stain. 124 

Mahogany Stain.125 

Cherry Stain. 125 

Oil Finish for Gun Stocks.125 

Varnishing and Finishing. 126 

The Varnish for Gun Stocks.127 

The Varnish Can. 128 

1 


CHAPTER XV. 


On Gun Barrels. 129 

Long and Short Barrels. 129 

Proof of Barrels. 131 

Proof Marks on Barrels. 133 

Gauge of Guns. 135 

Bursting of Barrels. 138 

To Prevent Barrels from Rusting. 138 

Protection from Rust. 138 


CHAPTER XVI. 


On Work on Gun Barrels. 140 

Boring Gun Barrels. 140 

How to Make Cutters for Boring. 141 

Quick Boring Gun Barrels. 141 












































X 


INDEX, 


PAGE 

Proving the Size During Boring. 142 

Draw Boring. 142 

Choke Boring. 143 

Choke Dressing. 144 

Barrels Most Suitable for Choke Boring. 145 

Freeing Gun Barrels. 145 

Another Method. 146 

Finishing Muzzles of Gun Barrels. 147 

Old Method of Straightening Barrels. 148 

The New Method. 148 

Another Method. 153 

Fitting Barrels Together. 153 

Joining Barrels Together. 156 

Soldering Barrels Together. 157 

Why Not Brase Barrels. 158 

Percussioning. 159 

Finishing Nipple Seat. 161 

The Vent in Percussion Guns. 162 

The Patent Breech.. 163 

Form of the Chamber or Cup. 164 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Tools foe Breeching Guns. 165 

Breeching Reamers. 165 

Breeching Taps. 166 

Breech Pin Formers. 169 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Tools for Chambering Breech Loading Barrels. 170 

CHAPTER XIX. 

On Gun Ribs. 173 

How to Straighten a Rib. 173 

HowtoFitaRib. 174 

How to Fit a Rib to an Octagon Barrel. 174 

How to Solder on a Rib.. 174 

How to Resolder Ribs. 176 

Height of Ribs. 178 

CHAPTER XX. 

On Thimbles. 180 

How to Make Thimbles. 180 

How to Put Thimbles on Barrels. 181 






































INDEX. 


XI 


PAGE 

CHAPTER XXI. 

On Rifling Guns. 183 

Importance of Rifling. 183 

U. S. Rifling Machines. 184 

Old Fashioned Rifling Machines. 186 

Gain Twist Rifling Machines. 188 

Rerifling. 188 

CHAPTER XXII. 

On Gun Locks. 190 

Quality of Locks. 190 

The Back Action Lock. 191 

The Bar Lock.191 

Side Action Lock. 192 

The Wesley Bar Lock. 193 

The Central Lock. 193 

Cleaning Locks, etc. 194 

How to Take Down a Lock. 195 

To Clean and Oil the Lock.... 196 

How to Put up a Lock. ... 197 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

On Fitting Gun Hammers. 199 

To Fit a Hammer on a Tumbler. 199 

The Drift for Squaring the Hole. 200 

A Tool for Fitting Hammers.202 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

On Nipples or Cones. 205 

Forms of Nipples.205 

Nipples for Breech Loading Arms. 206 

Nipples with Flat Tops. 206 

The American Musket Nipple.207 

Nipples Used in Sporting Guns. 208 

Preparing Nipples for Guns.... . 208 

Remedy for Bad Nipples. 209 

Pistol Nipples.209 

Plugs for Nipples. 209 

CHAPTER XXY. 

On Springs. 212 

Main Springs... 212 

Sear Springs. .. 212 

How to Forge Main Springs. 213 

How to Temper Main Springs. 214 

Cheap Springs for Revolvers. 215 

Coiling Wire for Springs, etc. 216 








































XII 


INDEX 


PACUJ 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

On Rods. 220 

How to Make Ram Rods . 220 

How to Make Wiping Rods. 222 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

On Bullet Moulds....224 

Joints for Bullet Moulds. 224 

How to Make a Ball Cherry. 227 

Tempering Ball Cherries. 282 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

Screw Making Tools . 233 

How to Make Screw Tools. 233 

How to Make Small Taps... 235 


CHAPTER XXIX. 

Nomenclature. 238 

Nomenclature of the Gun Stock. 238 

Nomenclature of the Gun Lock.239 

Nomenclature of the Hammer. 240 

Nomenclature of the Lock Plate. 240 

Nomenclature of the Tumbler. 241 

Nomenclature of the Bridle. 241 

Nomenclature of the Main Spring. 241 

Nomenclature of the Sear.241 

Nomenclature of the Sear Spring. 241 

Nomenclature of the Swivel. 242 

Nomenclature of the Breech Pin.242 

Nomenclature of the Screws .. 242 

CHAPTER XXX. 

On Browning. 243 

Objects of Browning. 243 

Preparatory Process. 243 

The Process of Browning. 245 

Browning Damascus Barrels. 245 

Browning Belgian Damascus Barrels.. 245 

Browning Inferior Barrels. 246 

Plain Welded Barrels Made to Resemble Twist. 247 

Smoke Staining. 247 



































INDEX. 


• • • 
Xlll 

PAGE 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

Recipes for Browning . 249 

Thirteen Recipes for Plain Barrels.249 

Four Recipes for Twist Barrels. 252 

To Blue Gun Barrels. 252 

Brown Tint for Iron or Steel... 253 

Transparent Blue for Iron or Steel.253 

Varnish for Browned Barrels, Three Recipes. 253 

Finish for Browned Barrels.254 

To Remove Old Browning. ....254 


CHAPTER XXXII. 

Miscellaneous. 255 

Shellac and Its Uses.255 

How to Make Shellac Varnish. 255 

How to Conceal Bad Places in Wood.256 

Another Method. 256 

Emery Cloth and Emery Paper. 256 

Uses of the Alcohol Lamp... .257 

How to Make Small Springs. 257 

How to Make Small Drills. 258 

Advantages of the Alcohol Lamp. 258 

The Soldering Copper. 258 

How to Heat the Copper. 258 

How to Tin the Copper.259 

To Prevent Gun Barrels from Glimmering. 259 

Repairing Shot Chargers. 260 

Broken Plunger Nipples. 261 

How to Remove Rusted Screws, Nipples, etc.261 

Patent Breech, Bursted.263 

Broken Tumblers. 264 

Describing Lines on Bright Surfaces. 264 


CHAPTER XXXIII. 

On Powder and Shot .267 

Comparative Sizes of Shot. 270 

Soft Shot Pellets to Ounce. 269 

Chilled Shot Pellets to Ounce. 270 

Comparative Sizes of Balls. 272 

Colt’s Pistol Sizes. 272 

Comparative Sizes of Gunpowder. 273 

To Select Buck Shot. 267 

Weighing Bullets, Powder, etc,,.... 267 










































XIV 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

Miscellaneous Recipes. 274 

Soft Soldering. 274 

Good Soft Solder. 274 

Soldering Fluid. 275 

Brasing.275 

To Erase Lugs on Barrels. 275 

Hard Soldering.275 

Hard Solders, Three Formulas.276 

Alloy for Adhering to Iron or Steel. 276 

Gun Oil. 276 

Gunsmiths’ Glue.277 

CHAPTER XXXV. 

On Judging the Quality op Guns.278 

The Muzzle Loading Shot Gun. 279 

The Muzzle Loading Rifle.279 

The Breech Loading Shot Gun.....283 

The Breech Loading Rifle...289 

CHAPTER XXXVI. 

On Using the Rifle.292 

The Old Kentucky Rifle. 292 

General Directions. 294 

Off-Hand Shooting. 296 

Rest Shooting. 299 

CHAPTER XXXVII. 

On Using the Shot Gun. 302 

Born Shooters. 302 

How to Shoot. 304 

Brewster on the Use of Two Eyes. 306 

Dougall’s Reasoning. 307 

Gloan on Taking Aim. 310 

CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

On Using the Pistol. 313 

Natural Talent. 

Taking Aim. 

4 • • 


The Best Pistols to Use. 316 

CHAPTER XXXIX. 

Vocabulary of Mechanical Terms Used by Gun Makers. .. 318 


































INDEX. 


XV 


CHAPTER XL. 


PAGB 


Vocabulary of Chemicals and Substances Used in Var¬ 
nishes, etc. 334 


CHAPTER XLI. 


Calibres of Guns, Rifling, Twist of Rifling, etc. 342 

European Guns. 342 

American Guns. 343 

Pistols. 344 


CHAPTER XLII. 

Directions for Taking Apart and Assembling Guns, Rifles 


and Pistols. 346 

Rifles.346 

The Ballard Rifle.346 

The Burgess System. 346 

Burnside’s Rifle. 347 

The Evans Rifle.348 

Hotchkiss Repeater. 349 

Howard’s “Thunderbolt”. 350 

The Kennedy Magazine Rifle. 350 

Martin Repeating Rifle.. 351 

The Maynard Rifle. 351 

Peabody Martini Rifle.353 

The Phoenix. 354 

The Remington System. 355 

Remington Magazine Gun (Keene’s Patent). 357 

Remington No. 3 (Hepburn’s Patent). 358 

Sharp’s Rifle. 358 

United States Muzzle-Loading Rifle and Musket. 360 

Springfield Breech-Loading Rifle. 361 

Whitney Breech-Loading Gun.362 

Whitney New System Breech-Loading Gun. 364 

Winchester Magazine Gun. 365 

Billings’ Breech-Loading Shot Gun.366 

Fox Breech Loading Shot Gun. 367 

Lefevre Hammerless Gun. 368 

Parker Double-Barreled Breech-Loading Shot Gnn-.369 

Remington Double-Barreled Breech-Loading Shot Gun... 369 
Roper Four-Shooting Shot Gun and Rifle. 370 




































THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


CHAPTER I. 

HISTORY OP THE GUN. 

Discovery of Gunpowder .—No authentic records 
have been left to show when or by whom was dis¬ 
covered the wonderful properties of the chemical 
compound now known as gunpowder; nor have we 
any information concerning the uses to which it was 
originally applied. There is little probability that it 
was at once employed as an agent in fire-arms; in¬ 
deed, we have pretty strong evidence to show that it 
was not, for Roger Bacon refers to it in his famous 
treatise, De Nullitate Magice , published A. D., 1216, 
while fire-arms are mentioned by no writer as hav¬ 
ing been known earlier than about 1338. 

The First Fire-Arms .—The first fire-arms, or 
guns, as we now call them, are said to have been 
rude cannon, formed by banding together flat iron 
bars, something on the plan of our wooden casks or 
barrels of to-day. These guns were fired with a 
lc slow match,” the gunners retiring to a safe dis¬ 
tance while the match was burning to the priming. 
Their earliest use was as engines of war. The writers 



10 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

of ancient history tell us that they were so employed 
by the Moors at the noted siege of Algesiras, Spain, 
in 1341, and at the battle of Calais, in 1346. At the 
latter battle, Edward III is credited with having 
had four pieces, which made him victorious. 

Earliest Hand-Guns .—It is claimed by Spanish 
historians that to Spain belongs the honor of having 
been the first power to furnish her soldiers with fire¬ 
arms so small that they could be transported by 
a single person. They were unwieldy affairs at the 
beginning, however; really small cannon lashed upon 
wooden scantlings. The soldier could not fire his 
piece off-hand, but was forced to carry a “rest” 
with him wherever he went. Being ready to dis¬ 
charge his arm he balanced it upon the rest, steadied 
it by holding the scantling under his arm, and then 
“touched it off” with a live coal of fire, while he 
sighted along the barrel to take aim at his object. 
What happened immediately after the coal came in 
contact with the powder the historian saith not, but 
a modern writer, who has been examining one of 
these old guns in a museum, jumps to the conclu¬ 
sion that the soldier, with the scantling under his 
arm, must have been launched suddenly into an im¬ 
pressive dream of first-class earthquakes, or some¬ 
thing else “ like unto the combined kicking of about 
fifty mules.” 

Prejudice Against Fire-Arms .—For about two 
centuries after the invention of hand fire-arms they 
were so inefficient that the cross-bow, then in gen¬ 
eral use, was able to quite successfully hold its own 


HISTORY OF THE GUN. 


11 


against them. It was not until 1596 that Queen 
Elizabeth, by a proclamation, directed that cross and 
other bows used in the army should be discarded en¬ 
tirely in favor of muskets. And thereat there arose 
much murmuring of dissatisfaction throughout the 
English Empire, according to Michael Montaigne, a 
most prominent man of his time, who narrates the 
fact, and adds: “ Except the noise in our ears, to 
which we will be henceforth accustomed, I think the 
fire-arm is one of very little effect, and I hope that 
we shall one day give up its use.” Could he return 
to earth at this age, and seethe wonderful fire arms 
that have developed from the humble beginning of 
which he was then treating, he would speedily lose 
his hope to the effect that one day its use would be 
entirely given up. 

The First Rifle.— The first rifle is said to have 
been made about the close of the fifteenth century, 
by one Gaspard Zollner, of Vienna. It was a sim¬ 
ple barrel with straight grooves; the only object of 
the grooves being to prevent its becoming so ‘ ‘ dirty ” 
from continued use, as did the smooth-bore. Spiral 
grooving does not seem to have been thought of un¬ 
til many years later. 

The Arquebus. —The earliest noted improvement 
in the hand-gun, making it lighter and giving it a 
longer barrel, was called the arquebus; but even this 
was so heavy that a “rest ” was necessary while dis¬ 
charging it. This rest was a single staff armed with 
a steel point which went into the ground like the 
Jacob-staff of a surveyor, but which fitted it for 


12 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


use as a pike when not employed in connection with 
the gun. It was called the schweine feder, which 
rendered into English means the “ hog’s bristle.” 

The arquebus was a regular “match-gun;” that 
is, it had a “pan” or receptacle at the side of the 
breech for the priming powder, which communi¬ 
cated with the interior of the barrel by a small per¬ 
foration called the “touch-hole.” The priming was 
lighted by a match, which consisted of a coil of 
small rope saturated with some kind of chemical, 
which caused it to burn readily and hold fire for a 
long time. The soldier using the arquebus carried 
the match in his hand and kept it buring during an 
action. The manner of setting off the piece was 
about the same as with the live coal—he secured his 
sight and then touched the priming with his lighted 
match. 

The Match Lock. —Later, the serpent-match was 
invented and looked upon as a startling improvement. 
It was a simple S-shaped piece of iron or wire hinged 
to the side of the gun just back of the priming 
pan. The upper end was provided with a beak 
which gripped the lighted fuse, while the lower end 
played the part of a modern trigger. With this con¬ 
trivance the gunner had only to take sight and then 
pull with his finger upon the lower end of the S 
until the lighted fuse was brought down into the 
priming. After many years of use an improve¬ 
ment was made upon the S, consisting of a small 
spring which threw it back into an erect position so 
soon as the pressure upon the lower end was dis- 
continued. 


HISTORY OF THE GUN. 


13 


The powder employed with the old arquebus was 
of two grades as to size of grain ; a coarse grade for 
the charge, and a fine grade for the priming. Its 
chemical composition does not seem to have differed 
materially from that of our modern gunpowder. 

The serpent match, so called because the upper 
end holding the fuse was often shaped to represent 
the head of a serpent, was the first actual step taken 
towards a gun-lock. It was thought to be perfec¬ 
tion itself, especially after the returning spring had 
been added, and so strong a hold did it take upon 
all nations that only a few years has elapsed since 
it was wholly abandoned in some of the most be¬ 
nighted regions, as in China, for instance, where it 
is known to have been used in the army at a date 
as late as I860. 

Musket-Petronel .—Next in order to the arquebus 
came the musket, a Spanish invention. It was 
heavier than its predecessor, and carried a charge 
twice as large. Almost simultaneously with this 
appeared the first cavalry fire-arm, which was called 
the petronel. It was shorter than the musket and 
larger in bore; the horseman rested its breech 
against his breast and communicated the fire by 
means of the serpent match. 

The Wheel-Lock.—In 1517 the Germans aston¬ 
ished the world by inventing and bringing into use 
the “ wheel-lock,” which was a regular gun-lock, 
entirely doing away with the lighted match. It 
consisted of a small disk of steel fluted on the edges, 
set in close contact with the priming pan, and made 


14 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


to revolve with great rapidity by means of a spiral 
spring arranged somewhat on the plan of the spring 
of a spring-clock. In contact with its fluted edge, 
and held there by a spring, was arranged a sharp 
flint; hence when the steel disk was set in motion a 
train of sparks was thrown off as it revolved over 
the edge of flint. These sparks fell into the priming 
pan and ignited the powder, discharging the piece. 
The spring was wound up like winding a clock or 
watch, and a slight pressure upon a trigger under 
the breech set the wheel in motion. The pressure 
was continued until the gun was discharged, when 
it was discontinued, the result of which was an im¬ 
mediate stopping of the wheel. A single winding 
would usually discharge the gun about half a dozen 
times. 

The Pistol .—The wheel-lock went into quite gen¬ 
eral use, finally leading to the invention of the 
pistol, about 1544. The first pistols were single 
barrel, and very short. The stock was heavy, and 
the breech or handle, instead of leaving the barrel 
with a curve, as in later days, dropped at right 
angles to the iron. It was put into use as a cavalry 
arm, first by the Germans and afterwards by the 
people of many other nations. In 1607 the German 
horse soldiers were all regularly armed with double- 
barrel wheel-lock pistols. 

The Snaphaunce .—After the date just mentioned 
modifications and improvements in fire-arms were 
rapid and constant. The wheel-lock was finally fol¬ 
lowed by the “ snaphaunce,” which was a straight 


HISTORY OF THE GUN. 


15 


piece of furrowed steel brought to bear upon the 
flint instead of the disk. It was more simple in its 
construction than the wheel-lock, and hence less 
liable to get out of order. Of course it worked in 
obedience to the action of a, spring, but the spring 
was not a spiral—it was more on the plan of the 
mainspring in modern gun-locks. 

The Flint-Lock .—About 1630 Spain again popped 
to the surface; this time with the regular flint-lock, 
embracing precisely the same mechanism as the flint¬ 
lock used in our Revolutionary war, and familiar 
to very many of the older people of the present day. 
Its advantges over the wheel-lock and the snap- 
haunce were so marked that France at once adopted 
it for use in her armies, but England held back, con¬ 
tending that the wheel-lock was the better inven¬ 
tion, till 1690, when she gave up the contest, and 
adopted the flint-lock. 

Important Improvements. —Rapidly following the 
invention of the flint-lock came important improve¬ 
ments in the musket. The stock was lightened and 
put into better shape, and sights were invented and 
placed upon the barrels. Up to this time the soldier 
had been forced to carry his ammunition in bulk, 
but now cartridges were brought into use, carried 
in convenient and neatly made cartridge-boxes. 
Steel bayonets to set over the muzzle of the gun also 
appeared, the first in 1693. Prior to this time a rude 
kind of bayonet had been more or less in use—it was 
a sort of dagger set into a wooden handle, the latter 
to be thrust into the muzzle of the gun in case of a 


16 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


hand-to-hand charge, where loading and firing could 
not be attended to. Iron ramrods took the place of 
the inconvenient and unsafe wooden ones formerly 
in use, which was regarded as a long stride in the 
efficiency of the musket. With the old wooden 
ramrods, clumsy and easily broken, the loading of a 
musket was a slow and laborious task, but the iron 
rod secured comparative ease and rapidity. 

Advance of the Rifle .—With the general improve¬ 
ment of fire-arms the rifle had worked gradually 
into favor and use. Its main drawback, as an 
army gun, laid in the difficulty experienced in load¬ 
ing it. But it was admirably adapted to the wants 
of the people settling the wilds of the American 
continent, hence they adopted it almost to the entire 
exclusion of any other kind of fire-arm. In the 
armies its use was limited to a few corps of sharp¬ 
shooters, usually on the frontiers where it was ad¬ 
vantageous to harass the enemy by picking off his 
men at long range. England seems to have been 
rather prejudiced against the rifle until after our war 
with her for Independence. In that war she appears 
to have had so striking a demonstration of its effi¬ 
ciency that she soon after adopted it as a military 
arm; and other nations, having faith in her superior 
judgment, finally followed her example, bringing 
the rifle rapidly upward in rank as an effectual im¬ 
plement of war. 

The Percussion Lock .—In 1807 a Scotch clergy¬ 
man by the name of Alexander Forsyth, invented a 
new method of igniting the charge in fire-arms, 


HISTORY OF THE GUN. 


IT 


which, after various changes and improvements, 
settled down to what is now known as the percus¬ 
sion cap. The percussion lock was a simultaneous 
invention, of course; though it did not differ mate¬ 
rially, in point of construction, from the old flint¬ 
lock already in use. The main difference consisted 
in the substitution of a cylinder and tube for the 
priming pan and frizzen, and a hammer for the 
cock. 

A strong current of prejudice set at once against 
the percussion lock, though nobody could tell why. 
All declared it would not do, but none attempted to 
give a reason for the faith that was in them. As a 
result the new invention was pretty effectually 
held in the background until 1834, when its oppon¬ 
ents accepted a challenge for a public test of its 
merits against those of the flint-lock. The test ex¬ 
tended to 6,000 rounds. In the course of these the 
percussion lock (afterwards more commonly known 
as the cap-lock), gave but six mis-fires, while the 
flint-lock scored nine hundred and twenty-two mis¬ 
ses. 

This astounding defeat at once sealed the fate of 
the flint-lock; still it was a long time before the 
prejudice existing against the other could be entire¬ 
ly removed. Even as far down as the date of our 
Mexican war, General Scott flatly objected to its 
use in his army, and had his men armed with the 
flint-lock, although there were then in our arsenals 
percussion-lock muskets enough to have armed all 
his forces more than twice over. 


18 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


But facts are such stubborn things that even the 
strongest prejudice must give way to them sooner 
or later. So it proved in this instance; one by one 
the manufacturers of flint-lock fire-arms adopted the 
improvements resulting from the discoveries of the 
Scotch clergyman, until finally no more “flint-locks 
were made, and the percussion lock was in undis¬ 
puted possession of the field. 

The Breech-Loader .—When the percussion-lock 
had been fully adopted by the public, and all the 
“latest improvements’’had been added to it, people 
thought that the fire-arm had attained to such a de¬ 
gree of perfection as to preclude any further change 
in the future; but how mistaken! The fate of the 
percussion-lock is now as much sealed as was that of 
the flint-lock at the test-trial of 1834. It is going 
the way of all its predecessors, and its entire ex¬ 
tinction is only a matter of time. The breech-load¬ 
er, with charge and ignition combined in the same 
cartridge, is rapidly taking its place, and, until some 
new and wonderful discovery comes to the surface, 
must, undoubtedly, stand paramount as the gun of 
the future. 

While springing into general favor at one leap, as 
it were, the breech-loader is no new and sudden ap¬ 
pearance. In truth it is of great antiquity. In the 
Tower of London, the Woolwich Museum, and in the 
Museum of Paris, may be seen hundreds of breech¬ 
loaders that were made centuries ago. Of course 
they were not made to use the percussion cartridge 
peculiar to many such guns of modern make, never- 


HISTORY OF THE GUN. 


19 


theless they were veritable breech-loaders, and the 
real suggestors, no doubt, of the modern arm of that 
character. 

In the Museum of Artillery, at Woolwich, there 
is a breech-loading pierrier, or paterera, of the time 
of Edward IV. (1411). It consists of a directing bar¬ 
rel, terminating in a square bar or frame of iron, 
and a separate loading chamber, with handle, which 
was fastened in its place for firing by an iron wedge. 
There are also found in the museums many breech¬ 
loading pistols, that were evidently in use about 
cotemporaneous with this gun. 

The records kept at St. Etienne, France, show that 
the French monarch, Henry II, shot with a breech¬ 
loading gun in 1540. And the English records show 
that the Marquis of Worcester took out a patent in 
that country for a breech action on the “ cut-screw” 
principle in 1661. A portion of the specification 
reads as follows: 

“An invencione to make certain guns or pistols 
which in the tenth part of one minute of an hour 
may be re-charged; the fourth part of one turne of 
the barrell, which remains still fixt, fastening it as 
foreceably and effectually as a dozen slirids of any 
screw, which, in the ordinary and usual way require 
as many turnes.” 

There are several specimens of the breech-loader 
made on this plan, nowin the Woolwich Museum. 
There are also other specimens, on a plan entirely 
different, made at a date but a little more recent, 
for it seems that then, as in modern days, one in* 


20 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


vention was very apt to suggest another. Three 
years after the Marquis of Worcester had taken out 
his patent, one Abraham Hill, of London, patented 
some six different systems of breech-loaders. In his 
specification concerning one of them he says : 

“It is a new way of making a gun or a pistoll, 
the breech whereof rises on a hindge, by a contriv¬ 
ance of a motion under it, by which it is also let 
down and bolted fast by one of the same motion.” 

This, as will be readily seen, was rubbing pretty 
close upon the breech-loader of the present day. 

Since the dates of the patents just referred to, the 
breech-loading fire-arm is known to have been in 
uninterrupted existence; but so strong was the cur¬ 
rent turned against it by popular prejudice, that it 
was little known to the people in general. A want 
of scientific training among the masses was the 
cause which held it back ; they were unable to 
clearly understand all the whys and wherefores con¬ 
nected with its workings, and, therefore, rejected it 
on the plea that it was dangerous, without really 
knowing whether it was or not. 

Great improvements in the breech-loader now 
succeeeded each other with astonishing rapidity up 
to the time when M. Lefaucheux, of France, capped 
the climax by inventing the cartridge containing 
within itself the cap, or means of igniting the charge. 
This made it available as a sporting gun, and hence 
promptly set it forward into public attention ; and 
finally, after a score or so of improvements, usually 
at the hands of the English, into public favor. It is, 


HISTORY OF THE GUN. 


21 


at last, the gun of the period, and the old muzzle- 
loader, with all its good qualities (and they were 
certainly many), is rapidly surrendering the field to 
the more successful candidate, and retiring in the 
footsteps of its honored predecessors, the wheel- 
lock and the flint-lock. 


CHAPTER II. 


HOW GUNS ARE MADE. 

Gunsmith — Gunmaker .—The modem gunsmith is 
not necessarily a gunmaker, but rather a repairer of 
guns that have happened to get out of order. In 
earlier days the devotees to his calling may, in their 
little shops, have made guns entire, but now, if the 
gunsmith makes them at all, that making consists 
in merely finishing up the parts and putting them 
together—generally making the stock entire. All 
gun parts can now be bought as “gunsmith’s mate¬ 
rials,” either finished or in the rough, as may be de¬ 
sired. They are made by a variety of workmen, 
the business of each man being to make a single 
part, and nothing more. There is at present too 
much in a good gun to admit of all being made ad¬ 
vantageously by one man; he would need to be a 
kind of “ Jack-of-all-trades,” and, like the tradi¬ 
tional Jack, it is but reasonable to suppose that he 
would be really first-class at none. 

In some of the large establishments where guns 
are made all these different workmen are employed, 
hence such an establishment is really a collection of 
workers in many trades. The gunsmith who has 
his shop for repairing purposes, or for putting toge¬ 
ther materials under the name of gunmaking, will 
not be specially concerned with reference to any of 


HOW GUNS ARE MADE. 


23 


these trades; still it is but reasonable to suppose that 
he would like to know something of how the imple¬ 
ments, or parts of implements, that he will be con¬ 
stantly handling, were put up ; and, besides, there 
will exist something akin to a necessity for his pos¬ 
session of such knowledge, owing to the fact that 
his customers will often call upon him to answer 
many a question as to how this or that gun was 
made, etc. With this view of the case, it is really 
necessary to give a brief outline of gunmaking, fol¬ 
lowing the work from the rough material to the 
final finish. 

Gun-Barrels—Best Materials for .—The barrels of 
the finest and best guns, either Damascus, or other 
steel, or iron, are formed, as made in Europe and 
England, of scraps of iron suited to the purpose, 
and selected with great skill and the greatest pos¬ 
sible care. These scraps, which are usually bought 
up about the country, are placed in what is called a 
“ shaking tub”—a vessel which is violently shaken 
and rocked about by machinery or otherwise (depend¬ 
ing upon the particular locality) for the purpose of 
scouring and brightening the scraps. This done, 
they are carefully picked over by adepts, who cull 
out the unsuitable pieces. So rigid is the culling 
that it often happens that out of a ton of scoured 
scraps not more than one hundred pounds weight of 
them are chosen as suitable for going into the best 
barrels. 

Among the scraps usually thought to be best are 
old chains that have been used for many years, the 


24 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

wear and rust of time having left only the best 
elements of the iron. The Damascus steel, which 
has attained to so high a reputation, got it by 
being manufactured out of old coach springs. Of 
course it is not all made of coach springs now, but 
it was in years ago; agents then traveled all over 
the country hunting and buying them up, paying a 
much higher price for an old broken spring than a 
new one would cost its owner. 

On Making Gun-Barrels .—The selected scraps to 
be worked into gun-barrel material are cut into 
small pieces and thrown into a furnace, where they 
are exposed to intense heat until fused, after which 
they are brought forth an adhering mass and placed 
under a hammer, which drives them together and 
forges them into bars. The bars are next rolled 
into thin plates, and then cut into strips twelve 
inches long and six inches wide. The very best guns 
are made of a combination of iron and steel. Both 
materials having been rolled and cut into sheets of 
exactly the same size, these sheets (one-fourth of 
an inch thick) are piled upon each other alternately 
to the number of thirty, and subjected to a welding 
heat; they are then driven together under a five-ton 
hammer into a consolidated slab. The slabs so 
formed are next worked down into one-fourth inch 
square rods. The more the material is hammered 
and worked the better it is. The rods are next 
twisted until they present the appearance of a strand 
of rope, some rods being twisted to the right and 
others to the left. Two rods, with opposite twist, 


HOW GUNS ARE MADE. 


25 


are heated to the welding degree, placed upon each 
other, and rolled together; they are now in a nar¬ 
row slab, presenting that fine curl of “grain” pecu¬ 
liar to the Damascus, or that beautiful wavy figure 
peculiar to the laminated steel, as the case may be. 
The next operation is to coil one of these slabs 
around a mandrel in a spiral form, and weld it se¬ 
curely under the blows of hand-hammers. It is 
now a gun-barrel in the rough. 

Finishing and Proving .—The rough barrel goes 
from the welder to the borer, where it is put through 
the process of “rough boring.” From the “rough 
borer” it goes into the hands of the “fine borer,” 
who bores it out smoothly and to near the size it is 
to be when finished. Another operator then takes 
it in charge and dresses it to smoothness externally, 
then the “ tester ” takes it and dips it into strong 
acid, which soon shows any imperfection in either 
twist or welding that might exist. If not perfect, 
it is sent back to be worked over; if all right, it 
passes to the next department, where it is straight¬ 
ened inside. This part of the work is governed en¬ 
tirely by the eye, and hence demands the services of 
a workman of great skill, and experience. 

Having been “ passed on” by the “straightener, 5 * 
the barrel goes to the ‘ ‘ turner, ” who turns it in a 
lathe until the outside is true and correspondingly 
straight with the interior, and is of exactly the re¬ 
quired weight. If the arm is to be a double-barrel 
shot gun, the barrel next goes into the hands of a 
workman who joins it to another barrel with the 


26 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

utmost nicety; to attain which, levels and other suit¬ 
able instruments are brought into requisition. Like 
the man who straightens the bore, the man who 
joins the barrels must be a workman of great skill. 

The next operation is to braze on the “lumps;” 
then, next in order, the ribs are put on. Now comes 
the “proving.” The rear ends having been securely 
plugged, they go to the proof department, where is 
placed into each barrel fully four ordinary charges 
of gunpowder ; then, atop of this, a wad of strong 
brown paper, rammed securely down, then a leaden 
bullet large enough to exactly fit the bore, and then 
another wad of brown paper. The charge is fired, 
and if the barrels stand the ordeal unfazed, they 
are ready to be fitted to the action; otherwise, they 
go back to be worked over. In some houses the 
“proving ” is done before the barrels are joined to¬ 
gether. 

Action , Stock and Final Finish .—The “action 
man’’now takes the perfect barrels in hand and 
performs his part of the work. In the meantime 
the stock-maker has not been idle. A stock is al¬ 
ready in waiting, and next must come a series of 
fittings of the most exquisite nicety, until the gun 
is actually a gun and ready for its final test. This 
is applied by the “targeteer,” who passes upon it 
according to its merits. If his report comes in favor¬ 
able, the gun goes to the proper department for final 
finish. The stock is dressed up, finished in oil or 
varnish and chequered, and its mountings put on. 
Every piece of metal is polished and burnished to 


HOW GUNS ARE MADE. 


27 


the highest possible degree, and all the needed en¬ 
graving is done. Next comes the case-hardening, 
coloring, and the browning or bronzing; and this 
having been well and satisfactorily performed, the 
gun is ready for market. 

On Making the Rifle .—The processes employed in 
making the modern rifle do not differ materially 
from those named in the foregoing. Of course there 
are some processes employed on the shot gun that 
are not called for in the manufacture of the rifle, 
and some on the rifle not needed on the shot gun. 
The general principle is the same, however, and 
therefore it is not necessary to consume time in 
further description. The great care mentioned is 
only done to make a good gun; only the cheap and 
inferior guns are pitched together in an easier and 
more irregular way. But the gunsmith would not 
thank any one for a treatise on cheap and bad guns. 
They are legion, more’s the pity, and his extensive 
dealings with them will afford annoyance sufficient 
to do away with any desire on his part to fight his 
battles over in a book. 

Plain Steel-Barrel Guns .—Of course there are 
guns with “ plain steel barrels,” as they are called, 
which pass muster as fair ; and the barrels of these 
are made by a process differing materially from that 
described in the foregoing; all else connected with 
the making is the same. These plain steel barrels 
are made of round bars of steel two inches in diam¬ 
eter. The bars are first cut into lengths of nine 
inches each; a hole or bore three-fourths of an inch 


28 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


in diameter is drilled through the centre. They ar© 
now called moulds, and the next step is to pass them 
through rolls, which reduce them to the required 
size for barrels and stretch them out to the required 
length, holding them, at the same time, in the proper 
shape, externally. Having been thus rolled, they 
are bored out internally, turned and ground exter¬ 
nally, until they have attained to the shape and 
proportions of correctly-formed barrels. After this 
comes the fitting up and “ proving,’’ as in the case 
of the finer guns. 


CHAPTER III. 


GUNS NOW IN USE. 

Guns Defined .—Excepting the pistol, and the mor¬ 
tar, perhaps, all fire-arms now in use are classed un¬ 
der the name of guns. The cannon or artillery 
ordnance in all its sizes and forms, is simply a large 
gun. It is variously divided off, according to charac¬ 
ter, into heavy siege-guns, field-pieces, rifled-cannon 
and smooth-bores. These again are sub-divided into 
a large number of different kinds, as the Armstrong, 
the Dahigren, the Columbiad, the Paixhan, the 
Parrot, the Whitworth, etc. But with guns of this 
class the practical gunsmith will have nothing to do, 
and hence it is but reasonable to suppose that he 
feels no particular concern about them. It is with 
the small-arms that his concern will mainly lie, and 
therefore from this page to the conclusion of this 
work the gun mentioned will be some instrument 
classing with the small fire-arms, and liable to be 
brought to a gunsmith’s shop for repairs. 

The small arms, or hand guns are muskets, rifles, 
carbines, fowling-pieces and pistols. These may be 
properly divided into three classes: the flint-lock, the 
percussion-lock and the cartridge breech-loader. 

The Old Flint-Lock Guns .—Of the old flint-locks, 
only a few are now in existence within the United 
States. Here and there one has been kept as a kind 


30 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


of heirloom by some family, and occasionally these 
drop in upon the gunsmith for repairs, but not 
often. They are more common along the Mexican 
border in Texas, perhaps, than in any other portion 
of the country. 

A minute description of the old flint-lock-gun need 
not be given, as, in general characteristics it does 
not differ materially from all other muzzle-loaders. 
The barrel is usually longer than that of the more 
modern gun; and, in the case of the rifle, the stock 
(all wood) extends nearly to the muzzle. It is what, 
in later days, when half-stocks had been invented, 
was called a full-stock. As already intimated the 
interior mechanism of the lock differs very little 
from that of the more modem cap or percussion- 
lock. On the outside, in place of the cap-hammer 
is a cock arranged with two lips for holding a flint. 
The lips are brought together firmly upon the flint 
by means of a screw which passes down immedi¬ 
ately back of it. In the top of the lock-plate, di¬ 
rectly in front of the cock, is set the priming-pan; 
a small iron receptacle made to contain, say the 
fourth of a teaspoonful of gunpowder. When the 
lock is in position the butt or open end of the pan 
comes squarely up against the barrel of the gun 
where a small hole called the “ touch-hole” com¬ 
municates with the interior, and with the charge, 
when the gun is loaded. Over the priming-pan a 
cover fits nicely, lying horizontally when the pan is 
closed, and turning up at right angles on the edge 
nearest the cock, and standing erect, a small plate of 


GUNS NOW IN USE. 


31 


steel, immediately in front of the flint. This cover, 
with its vertical plate is called the frizzen. It works 
on a hinge, and is held into whatever position set, 
by means of a small spring called the heel spring. 
When the cock is set in motion by drawing upon the 
trigger and releasing the check to the mainspring, 
the flint comes in contact with the steel plate of the 
frizzen, throwing it back upon its hinge and scrap* 
ing down its face directly towards the priming-pan. 
As the frizzen flies back the pan is uncovered, of 
course, enabling the flint to end its journey directly 
in the priming powder of the pan. In its scrape 
over the steel plate of the frizzen it causes many 
brilliant sparks of fire, which descending with it 
into the priming sets off the charge. 

The Percussion-Loch Gun .—As has already been 
stated, the immediate successor of the old flint-lock 
was the percussion or cap-lock. While now far be¬ 
yond its zenith, it is still the prevailing gun in many 
portions of the country; especially in out-of-the-way 
districts South and West. In the oldest make of 
these guns a small plug of iron is screwed into the 
barrel at the point where the touch-hole of the flint¬ 
lock was located. It is called the cylinder. The end 
passing into the barrel is drilled to communicate 
with the powder-bed of the gun, and with a cap- 
tube, which is screwed into the cylinder, to stand 
erect near the side of the barrel. In more modern 
guns the cylinder has been discarded, the tube going 
directly into the barrel and communicating with the 
powder-bed. 


32 THE gunsmith’s manual. 

The oldest percussion-lock rifles are set in whole- 
stock, on the plan of the flint-lock gun; and on ac¬ 
count of the fact that all the old-fashioned folks are 
not yet dead, some factories put up new guns after 
the same model, calling them Kentucky rifles. The 
stock reaches the full length of the barrel, which is 
heavy and about four feet long. It is octagon in 
shape. But in most of the more modern rifles the 
barrel is shorter, say from 32 to 36 inches in length, 
and comparatively light; and the stock extends 
only half the length of the barrel, joining to a rib 
affixed to the barrel for the purpose of holding the 
ramrod-thimbles. 

The “ patent-breech ” may be mentioned as an¬ 
other peculiarity of the percussion-lock gun, since it 
was not known in the days ere the flint-lock had 
lost its prestige. In those early days the breech end 
of the barrel was closed by a plug of iron, screwed 
in and called the breech-pin. From its upper side 
there extended backward along the stock a thin plate 
or strap, through which screws passed at right 
angles to hold the barrel in place. This method of 
securing the breech-end of the barrel into the stock 
has been done away with by the patent breech, 
which secures it by means of a short hook on the 
end of the breech-pin; or, rather, on the end of the 
short plug screwed into the barrel in place of the old 
breech-pin. It is much more convenient than the old 
fashioned arrangement, as it enables the barrel to 
be taken from the stock in a moment, doing away 
with the labor of drawing the breech-pin screws. 


GUNS NOW IN USE. 


33 


On the Muzzle-Loaders. — The percussion-lock 
muzzle-loaders all work upon about the same prin¬ 
ciple. The charge must go in at the muzzle and be 
put down to the breech. In the case of army guns 
it is usually contained in a paper cartridge. The 
soldier bites off the end of the cartridge in which 
the powder is inclosed, to admit of a communication 
with the cap, and then forces it down with the ram¬ 
rod. But in the case of rifles and fowling pieces, or 
shotguns, as the latter are most commonly called 
in this country, cartridges are seldom employed. In 
loading a rifle the powder is first measured in a 
“charger,” and then poured down the barrel; next 
comes the patch, which is usually a piece of new 
and strong cotton cloth, most commonly the kind 
known as white drilling. This, having been tal¬ 
lowed upon one side, the tallowed side is spread over 
the muzzle of the gun, and the bullet is pressed 
upon it into the muzzle, the side from which the 
“neck,” formed in moulding, has been cut, must be 
directly downward. Generally with the handle of 
a knife the bullet is pressed into the bore as far as it 
can be sent by such means; then the patch is gathered 
around it and cut smoothly off exactly flush with 
the muzzle end of the barrel. The next operation 
is to draw the ramrod, throw the gun under the left 
arm, with its breech resting upon the ground and 
its muzzle in front of the breast, and then having 
set the butt end of the ramrod upon the bullet and 
grasped it in both hands, the bullet is gradually, and 
by main strength, forced downward into position. 


34 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

To make sure that it is entirely down the gun is 
taken from under the arm, by some, and set with 
the breech resting upon the ground more in front, 
after which the ramrod is raised up a foot or so and 
pitched down the bore like throwing a pike. If it 
does not bound back the bullet is not down solid 
upon the powder, and the pitching is repeated until 
it does bound. The upward bound of a few inches 
is sufficient to settle it that the bullet is down. 

In the early times the bullet of the rifle was 
patched with dressed deer-skin exclusively. 

Charging the shot-gun muzzle-loader is an opera¬ 
tion somewhat different. First comes the powder 
poured down the bore from a charger, as in the case 
of the rifle. Next comes a wad, usually of paper, 
which must fit tightly, and be rammed down solid 
upon the powder. Following this comes the shot, 
measured in the same charger, or in one of the same 
capacity. The measure of powder and the measure 
of shot usually made about the same. Over the shot 
is rammed a loose wad— it needs only to be tight 
enough to prevent the shot from rolling out when 
the muzzle of the gun happens to come lower than 
the breech. Disk-like wads of pasteboard or felt 
cloth are the latest invention. 

The Breech Loaders .—The breech-loading gun is 
now before the public in considerable variety; and 
being really the gun of the day, and, consequently, 
engaging the best thought of inventors, it is con¬ 
stantly appearing in new forms. This being the 
case, about all that could be expected in this work, 


GUNS NOW IN USE. 


35 


is a mere mention of the general principles upon 
which it works. 

Taking a double-barrel shot-gun for illustrating 
these general principles, it may be stated that the 
barrels are movable at the breech or rear end, and 
butt upon the face of the standing breech peculiar to 
the latest and best muzzle-loaders. The face of 
these barrels fits smoothly against that of the stand¬ 
ing breech. There is nothing in the way of a breech- 
pin to resist the backward force of the ignited 
powder, or hold the barrels in place. The hooks 
mentioned as peculiar to the patent breech muzzle- 
loader are not there—nothing at all like them. But 
the barrels, when put into place for shooting are 
held there by means of a solid piece of iron attached 
to them underneath, called the ‘ ‘ lump. ” To effect 
this, it descends into an iron bed on the stock called 
the “action,” its projections fitting into suitable re¬ 
cesses in the action and being held there by the 
agency of keys, wedges, bolts or grips. 

There are many devices for gripping, bolting or 
wedging up the gun, as it is called; and also many 
for attaching the barrels to the stock. In all cases 
the barrels play upon a hinge pin, which admits of 
their dropping down at the muzzle and rising at the 
breech, the latter to reject the empty cartridge and 
receive the loaded one. At every discharge the gun 
is opened and closed by throwing up the barrels for 
the purpose just named, and then letting them down 
again into position for shooting. The means by 
which this opening and closing is effected vary 
greatly in the guns of different makers. 


36 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

Variety of Breech-Loaders. —This gives the gen¬ 
eral idea of about all there is of it. There are a few 
breech-loaders made in both this country and in 
Europe whose barrels are fixed, the cartridge being 
inserted through some other device; and there are 
still a few others whose barrels slide forward or side¬ 
ways in the stock to receive the load—do not tilt on 
a hinge-pin—but neither of these kinds are so com¬ 
mon as the kinds just referred to. 


CHAPTER IV. 


PISTOLS NOW IN USE. 

Old-Style Pistols. —Pistols, the smallest of fire¬ 
arms, were originally plain implements of a single 
barrel; but, as improvements advanced, a second 
barrel was added to many of them, presenting what 
is known as the double-barreled pistol. Some of 
these old-fashioned single and double-barreled pistols 
will still occasionally find their way into the shop of 
the gunsmith, though their numbers, as now in use, 
are comparatively small, especially the muzzle-load¬ 
ers. In rare instances a flint-lock ‘ 1 horse pistol ” or 
holster may put in an appearance, though none such 
are now on sale at any house dealing in fire-arms. 
Some few houses are still offering the old cap-lock 
army holster, always a second-hand article that 
once belonged to the Government, and was bought 
up by dealers when the Government had discarded 
it for the adoption of more modern and better arms. 
A description of this kind of weapon is unnecessary 
as it is simply a small musket with side-lock, and 
all on the usual plan, differing only in being short 
and having a turned-down handle, to be held in one 
hand, instead of the usual breech. The single or 
double-barrel muzzle-loaders, outside the line of 
army holsters, will usually have the central lock, 
which is next to no lock at all; simply a main- 


38 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. . 


spring working in the handle and throwing the cap- 
hammer, which is fitted in the middle of the piece 
immediately behind the breech-end of the barrel. 
Some very cheap pistols for boys are still made on 
this plan. 

The Derringer .—The old Derringer, though not now 
much manufactured in this country, is still among 
the people in considerable numbers. It is a muzzle- 
loader, with side-lock and full-stock in wood ; and, 
by the way, it is a very good pistol of its kind. 

The Pepper Box .—There are quite a number of 
little breech-loading cartridge-pistols, with single 
barrels, now in use, but the pistol of the day is a 
repeater, of which there are kinds in great variety. 
One of the oldest and now rarest of these is the 
“ pepper-box,” so called. It has a single barrel con¬ 
taining from five to seven bores, which are loaded 
from the muzzle. A tube for percussion caps com¬ 
municates with each bore at the breech, and upon 
these a hammer strikes, having an automatic action, 
rising up and striking in response to pressure upon 
a trigger underneath, which pressure also revolves 
the barrel, bringing the caps into proper position for 
receiving the blow. It was never a popular pistol, 
people objecting to a kind of way it had of some¬ 
times letting off its seven charges simultaneously, 
when the person operating it had intended to fire 
but one. 

Old Coifs Revolver .—Next among the repeaters, 
in point of scarcity, is the Colt’s revolver of the 
earliest patent. It has a stationary single barrel 


PISTOLS NOW IN USE. 


39 


and revolving cylinder, the latter containing from 
five to seven chambers for receiving the charges. 
It is not a muzzle-loader, though the charges must 
be put into the chambers at the breech, somewhat 
on the muzzle-loading plan. It is fired by means of 
percussion caps. The cylinder revolves, throwing 
the chamber to be discharged into proper position 
at the breech of the barrel when the cap-hammer is 
drawn back. Though inconvenient, compared to 
the cartridge pistol of more modern make, the old 
Colt’s revolver is yet an excellent arm. There are 
houses still making revolvers on the same plan. 

Sharp’s Four Shooter .—Next to the old Colt’s 
revolver may be placed the Sharp’s four shooter. It 
is a neat and strong-shooting, little breech-loading 
pistol, using a No. 22 cartridge. The barrel has 
four bores but does not revolve : but the hammer 
has a revolving point, for striking the cartridge, 
which moves into proper position for a new dis¬ 
charge every time it is drawn back to full cock. 
The barrel slides forward upon the stock for receiv¬ 
ing new cartridges. 

The Breech-loading Cartridge Revolvers .—Next 
comes the regular breech-loading cartridge revolver, 
which is the pistol now most common and most 
popular. To attempt a detailed description of every 
style of this weapon would be to swell our book to 
unwieldy proportions, and even were the multitud¬ 
inous styles at present before the public described, it 
would be impossible to keep pace with the number 
which would be constantly introduced. But, even 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


40 

were it possible to do so, no good purpose would be 
subserved. Various as the styles appear, they all 
embrace devices and combinations which are sub¬ 
stantially covered by our several chapters, and the 
intelligent workman will not require minute descrip¬ 
tions to recognize or understand the individual 
weapon when well grounded in a knowledge of the 
class of fire-arms to which it belongs. It is our pur¬ 
pose to give such descriptions, directions and illus¬ 
trations as shall make everything sufficiently clear 
and explicit to enable the reader, with careful atten¬ 
tion thereto, to handle successfully and satisfactorily 
any job likely to come to his hands. 


CHAPTER V. 


ON GENERAL GUNSMITHING. 

The Gunsmith and his Trade .—Few trades pre 
sent so little regular routine as does that of the gun¬ 
smith. In most trades it is the same thing over and 
over again; but, with the exception of taking the 
gun to pieces and putting it together; and, perhaps, 
of tempering, case-hardening and the like, the gun¬ 
smith may work regularly for a long time without 
being called upon to do precisely the same thing 
twice. As a consequence, the gunsmith must be 
merely an ingenious mechanic or worker in metals, 
capable of thinking deeply and searching out causes 
and requirements—there is little need of his being 
anything more. The gun, in all its forms, is only a 
machine, and a simple one at that—so simple as to 
be easily understood by any one capacitated for 
making an intelligent study of machinery. 

Fitting up a Shop .—The specialties to claim the 
attention of the gunsmith in fitting up his shop if 
his means are limited may be few. It will be about 
like fitting up the shop of any general worker in 
metals. He will need a forge, an anvil and a vise ; 
in a word he will need a light but complete set of 
blacksmith’s tools, to begin with. This outfit will 
be his foundation, so to speak ; and he can add to 
it such smaller tools as judgment and experience 


42 


THE GUNSMITH'S MANUAL. 


may suggest as wanted ; such, for instance, as a 
hand-viseortwo, cutting-pliers, bending-pliers, hold¬ 
ing-pliers, small files of various shapes, small drills, 
a screw-plate or two, a few gravers, and so on. He 
might have many special tools, such as could not be 
bought at the ordinary hardware store, or at any 
house dealing in outfits for the general worker in 
metals, but for ordinary repairing, he will not have 
much need of them. Among the special tools that he 
will be compelled to have will be a rifle-guide, a few 
sets of rifle-saws and a few mould-cherries. These 
with proper instructions he can make himself if he 
finds he cannot buy them cheaper than he can make 
them. There are a few specialties in the way of 
tools or machines for gunsmiths that are offered to 
the trade by houses dealing in gunsmith’s materials, 
and some of them may be found very useful as 
labor-savers, but the gunsmith can get along with¬ 
out them if he does not wish to buy. Prominent 
among these is a mainspring-vise or clamp, which 
has several advantages over the common hand-vise 
sometimes employed for clamping the mainspring. 
It would be well to look after these things, and to 
adopt them in every case where it appeared beyond 
question that they could be made to pay. There is 
no occasion to speak against any of the specialties 
that may be presented to the attention of the trade 
—of their merits the party most concerned must be 
his own judge. 


CHAPTER VI. 


TAKING APART, CLEANING AND PUTTING GUNS TO¬ 
GETHER. 

To Take the Gun Apart .—With the muzzle-load¬ 
ing guns now in common use this is an operation so 
simple as to be scarcely worthy a mention. If the 
gun is an old-fashioned breech-pinned muzzle-loader, 
the first thing is to push out the small wire pins or 
bolts which pass through the stock, under the barrel, 
and through the barrel-loops. The next thing is to 
draw the breechpin screw; this lets the barrel out 
of the stock. If it is desirable to unbreech the gun, 
it is done by clamping the breechpin in a vise, and 
then turning the barrel by hand until it is screwed 
off the pin. 

The patent-breech muzzle-loader comes apart the 
same way in every particular, with the exception 
that there is no breechpin screw to draw ; the barrel 
can be easily lifted from the stock by simply raising 
the muzzle and unhooking the patent breech, so soon 
as the pins or bolts before mentioned as holding it 
down have been removed. The unbreeching is done 
at the vise much the same as in the other case. 

To take apart the ordinary breech-loader, begin 
by setting the hammer at half-cock. Open the lever, 
then draw the bolt, starting it with a tap from the 


44 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

handle of the screwdriver. Next detach the fore- 
piece, and the barrel will come out without further 
resistance. Instructions to take down and assemble 
different kinds of breech-loading guns will be found 
in Chapter XL. 

To Clean the Gun token Apart .—In olden times a 
bucket of water and a wisp of tow and a stout 
“ wiper” had to be brought into requisition, partic¬ 
ularly for the interior of the barrel, but now these 
things are mainly obsolete, so far as relates to the 
outfit of the gunsmith. The owner of a muzzle- 
loader, who does not wish to remove the breechpin, 
may still resort to the old plan of washing out the 
barrel, though there is now really no necessity for 
it. A little benzine poured down the muzzle, after 
stopping the tube, will do the work of cleaning ef¬ 
fectually and in a few minutes. Let stand a short 
time, then remove the plug from the tube and force 
the benzine out by running down a tow wad on the 
wiper—all the dirt will go out through the tube with 
it, leaving you nothing to do but wipe the benzine 
from the bore with the tow. 

In the case of a gun unbreeched, or a breech¬ 
loader, all that is necessary is to saturate a bit of 
cotton flannel with benzine and run it through the 
barrel a few times. If the gun is a fine one, well 
finished, this process will leave the interior as shin¬ 
ing and bright as a mirror. 

With the same arrangement rub thoroughly any 
of the metal parts that happen not to be clean, and 
all impurities will promptly leave them. After this, 


TAKING APART, CLEANING, ETC. 45 

oil and wipe with a chamois skin, and the work is 
done. 

Benzine may be had at any drug store at about 
the price of kerosene. It is especially valuable as a 
gun cleaner for two reasons : its peculiar fitness for 
detaching and carrying away dirt, and its highly 
volatile properties, which cause it to evaporate and 
entirely leave the metal in a short time after the ap¬ 
plication has been made. Its adoption has com¬ 
pletely done away with the necessity of ever using a 
drop of water upon a gun, in any case, which is a 
matter of decided importance and advantage. 

To Put the Gun Together .—With the muzzle- 
loaders the operation of putting together is sim¬ 
ply a work directly in reverse to that of taking 
apart. In case of the common make of breech¬ 
loaders a little more variation may be regarded as 
necessary. Take the grip of the stock in the left 
hand, having the lever open. Hook on the barrel 
and turn the gun over with the hammers under¬ 
neath, still holding the stock at the grip. The 
weight of the barrel will keep it in place. With the 
right hand attach the forepiece and push in the bolt. 

Of course there are guns of peculiar make, now 
and then to be met with, which will require a differ¬ 
ent routine, both in taking apart and putting to¬ 
gether. The details, with full directions for taking 
down and assembling nearly all the breech-loading 
guns now made, will be found explained, with cuts 
of their mechanism and working parts, in Chapter 
XLII. 


46 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

A careful study will soon show the gunsmith how 
they come apart and how they go together. The 
main thing is to work with extreme care, and to 
never act until you clearly understand what you are 
doing. 


CHAPTER VII. 


TOOLS REQUIRED FOR WORK, THEIR COST, ETC. 

Given in alphabetical order are some of the tools 
that will be required by the gunsmith, and in con¬ 
nection a very brief sketch is given of their approxi¬ 
mate cost at hardware stores. This list is intended 
only as a sort of guide in purchasing, and is by no 
means intended as a complete list of what may be 
wanted. 

The Alcohol Lamp .—This lamp, shown in Fig. 1, 
is useful for small soldering, tempering small taps, 



Figure 1. 


drills, etc. Glass or brass lamps with caps to pre¬ 
vent evaporation, are sold for about 50 cents each. 

Alcohol Lamp , Self-Blowing .—This lamp, shown 
in Fig. 2, very convenient when continued blowing 
is required, or when the “ knack” of using the com¬ 
mon plow-pipe cannot be readily acquired. It may 
be used for soldering, brazing small articles, or har¬ 
dening small tools, Size inches diameter and 5 
inches high, $2; about 3 inches diameter and 6 inches 
high, $3. 


















48 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

Anvil .—An anvil weighing about ninety or one 
hundred pounds is heavy enough. An Eagle anvil 
of this weight will cost about $0 or $10. The body 
of this kind of anvil is cast iron with steel face and 
horn. Price per pound is about ten cents. 

Barrel Planes .—These planes are now but little 
used, except for stocking guns or rifles which are to 



Figure 2 . 


be fitted with full-length stocks. As this form of 
gun is somewhat going out of use, so the stocker’s 
planes are getting to be cast to one side. They are 
made similar to a narrow rabbet plane, but have the 
iron set close to the fore end. Any narrow plane 
with the fore end cut off to within half an inch of 
the opening in which the iron is placed will make a 
substitute for the stocker’s plane. The plane with 
round face is used to let in round barrels, and one 
with a face equal in width to the sides of an octagon 



















































TOOLS REQUIRED FOR WORK, ETC. 


49 


barrel, for letting in such barrels. A narrow 
plane is used to let in the ramrod, by cutting a groove 
centrally in the bottom of the barrel groove. The 
planes used are about four in number and the cost 
is about seven or eight dollars for the set as sold by 
dealers. 

Bevel .—Bevels for ascertaining and forming sur¬ 
faces, not at a right angle with some certain line, can 
be had from one dollar upward in price. The four 
inch is very good size. The blade is held in position 
by a screw, which forms part of the joint on which 
the blade turns. Shown in Fig. 3. 



Figure 3. 


Beveling Clamp .—These tools are generally made 
of about three sizes, and are used for holding ham¬ 
mers when filing the bevel upon the sides. They 
are also useful for holding lock-plates while filing 
the bevel on them. In the vise, work can only be 
conveniently held at a vertical or horizontal posi¬ 
tion; this clamp is designed to furnish a means to 
hold it so as to file an angle of about 45 degrees. 
The tool is shown in Fig. 4. It is held in the vise, 
the shoulders resting on the vise jaws. The spring 















50 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

between the jointed portions opens the tool when the 
vice jaws are opened, the closing of the vise 
jaws, of course, closing the clamp upon the work 
that is placed in it. The cost of these tools is from 
two to three dollars, according to size and quality. 



Figure 4. 


Blacksmith Tongs .—Blacksmith tongs can now be 
purchased of the hardware dealer. The twelve-inch 
length are used for small work, and the fifteen or 
eighteen for heavier work. The twelve-inch cost 
about 50 cents; the fifteen, 62, and the eighteen, 75 
cents each. 

Blow-Pipe .—Select a blow-pipe eight or ten inches 
in length, with bulb or without, as fancy may dic¬ 
tate. If the end where the mouth comes in contact 
be silver or nickle-plated, it will not taste of brass. 
If it be difficult to get one plated, tin it with soft 
solder by wetting with soldering acid, and melting 
the solder on it by holding it over the lamp. Wipe 
off all superfluous solder with a rag. The cost of 
plain eight or ten inch pipe is about 25 cents. Add 
about one-third or one-half this price for pipes with 
bulb. 



TOOLS REQUIRED FOR WORK, ETC. 51 

Breeching Taps .—Breeching taps ought to be ob¬ 
tained in pairs, one to enter first and another to 
follow, cutting a full thread at the bottom. The 
prices per pair are for thef inch $2.25; | inch, $2.50; 
f inch, $2.75. For shot gun taps, f inch, $3.00; £ 
inch, $3.25. A stock with dies will cost about a like 
sum, but if the stock be fitted with only two sets 
of dies, it will be much less. The two threads used 
for rifle pins are 14 and 16 to the inch. 

The 14 and 16 threads are not always adhered to. 
A house in Philadelphia say they use taps of 18 
threads, and a firm in Pittsburg advertise taps of 20 
threads per inch. 

Calipers and Dividers .—The best length of spring 
calipers and dividers, for common bench work, is 
about four inches. The cost is from 50 cents to 
$1.50, according to quality. 

Chisels .—The chisels, as used by stockers, are 
about half a dozen in number. The narrowest is 
about one-eighth of an inch wide, and the widest 
about half inch. The set of six will cost about a 
dollar or a dollar and a half. 

Cutting Pliers .—A pair of cutting pliers, six 
inches in length, for cutting wire, are indispensable. 
Select those of good quality. Poor pliers of this de¬ 
scription are poor, indeed. The cost will be from 75 
cents to $1.50. There are patented pliers of this 
kind in market that are recommended by many who 
use them. 

Drill Stock .—Many kinds are in market, from 
eight inches in length upward. Some are termed 


52 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


hand drills, and the larger ones, used against the 
breast, are called breast drills. The hand drills can 
be obtained as low as 50 cents and upward; the 
price of breast drills from two to three dollars. 
Select a drill stock, if one be required, of a size and 
strength to suit the work to which it will be used. 

File Card .—This is for cleaning filings, dirt, etc., 
that may collect in files. It consists of a strip of 
common cotton card tacked to a piece of wood con- 



Figure 5. 


veniently shaped to handle. It is also useful to clean 
the dirt and debris that will collect in screw taps. 
The cost is about 25 cents. Shown in Fig. 5. 

Fitting Square .—A fitting square with a four, 
five or six-inch blade is required for many purposes, 
not only for laying out iron stocks and marking 
off “square work,” but other work that will come 
into a gun shop. The gun squares used by carpenters 
and cabinet makers are very good. If the stock be of 
iron, or an iron frame filled with wood, they are bet¬ 
ter than those with wooden stocks. The cost of the 
six, inch may be about 75 cents. The other some¬ 
what less. 

Floats .—For half-stocking, the gouge and floats 
are used for letting in barrels. The floats are made 
with a handle bent at an angle so that the hand will 
not hit the work. The round float in form resem- 






TOOLS REQUIRED FOR WORK, ETC. 53 

bles a gouge with teeth like a coarse file cut on the 
rounded or bottom surface. Floats have been made 
by drawing the temper of a thick gouge and cut¬ 
ting teeth in it, or taking a half-round file and draw¬ 
ing the temper, and then cutting teeth on the round 
side. Floats for octagon barrels are flat, like a 
chisel with teeth cut on one of the fiat sides. A thin 
float for letting in cross bolts is made in the same 
manner. A float for fitting ramrods may be made 
of a steel rod with teeth cut on one end, and a handle 
fixed to the other. The bolt float will cost about 50 
cents. The rod float about $1.00 each for two sizes. 
Rifle, two sizes, about $1.25 each. Shot gun, two 
sizes, about $1.50 each. 

Forge .—Little advice can be given respecting a 
forge. Some prefer the bellows forge, while others 
select the fan blower. The great requirement of 
the gunsmith is portability and occupying little 
space. It should also be so enclosed as to prevent 
escape of dust, and be free from accident of fire escap¬ 
ing if left with the fire lighted. The cost of either 
form of portable forge will be from $20, upward. 

Glue Pot .—Glue pots can be purchased with ket¬ 
tle fitting inside the pot and tinned on inside, 
quart size about 75 cents. A glue pot may be ex¬ 
temporized by selecting a common round fruit can, 
cutting out the cover so as to allow a smaller can 
to fit and be held in place. Where economy is desir¬ 
ed or a pot cannot be purchased, the can glue pot 
will answer every purpose. 

Gouges. —About six gouges are needed. The sizes 


54 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


are about one-eighth for the smallest, and increasing 
to three-quarters for the largest. The cost of the set 
will be about one dollar and a quarter. 

Grind Stone.— An Ohio stone, about 20 inches 
diameter and 2 $ inches thick, mounted plain, can be 
got up for about three or four dollars. The iron 
fixtures will cost about a dollar, and the stone 
a cent and a half or more per pound, according to 
locality. 

Hack Saiv.—A hack saw shown in Fig. 6, with 
iron frame, to hold a blade of eight or ten inches in 



Figure 6. 


length is required for cutting off barrels, slotting 
screws, cutting off rods of iron, brass, etc., besides 
many other uses. The eight inch with blade will 
cost about $1.25, the ten inch about $1.50. If at 
any time a blade be broken they can be replaced 
at from 25 to 50 cents. 

Hammers .—In choosing hammers select the plain 
riveting hammer with cross pein. The sizes gener¬ 
ally most used are a four ounce, a twelve ounce and 
a heavier cgie for use at the forge. The four ounce 
costing about 30 cents, the twelve ounce about 50 
cents, and the larger one according to weight. In 
selecting hammers try the pein with a fine file to 




























TOOLS REQUIRED FOR WORK, ETC. 55 

learn the temper. In many cases the pein is left 
too soft for riveting steel. 

Handles .—Handles for files or screwdrivers are 
best when made of maple or apple wood. Maple is 
generally preferred. Some mechanics like soft wood, 
as bass-wood or white birch, for file handles, but 
they are not so neat as those made of maple. Get 
those with ferrules made from sheet brass, raised to 
form. Soft wood handles are worth about 25 cents 
per dozen, and the hard wood about 50 cents. 

Hand Shears .—For cutting sheet tin, brass, thin 
sheet steel, small springs, etc., select a pair of hand 
shears about nine or ten inches in length, costing 



Figure 7. 


about $1.50. With these, common watch-springs 
can be cut lengthwise, for making small springs for 
pistols. The temper need not be drawn to cut them. 
(Shown in Fig. 7.) 

Hand-vise—A. hand-vise for holding wire, screws, 
etc., is needed. About four or four and a half inches 
in length is most convenient. For holding small 
wire, cut a groove \yith a three-square file across the 
jaws toward the jointed end. The cost will be from 
50 cents to $1.00, according to quality. 









56 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

Iron Clamps—A pair of malleable iron clamps 
(shown in Fig. 8), opening about four inches, are 



Figure 8. 

useful for holding barrels into the stock during 
stocking, holding a lock plate or strap in place for 
marking, holding barrels together, pieces of wood to 
be glued, etc. Cost, about 50 cents each. 



Figure 9. 

Mainspring Vise .—This tool (shown in Fig. 9, as 
clamping a spring) is used to clamp the mainspring, 








































































































TOOLS REQUIRED FOR WORK, ETC. 57 

preparatory to removing it from the lock. The 
hammer is set at full cock, and the vise applied, the 
screw tightened until the spring can be lifted from 
place. In taking down double guns, a vise for each 
lock spring is very convenient, as the springs can 
then rest in the vise, being cramped in place, until 
ready to be put back into their respective places. 
The cost of these vises is from 25 cents to $2 each, 
according to quality and make. For a left-side 
lock, reverse the sliding piece, so that the short end 
will bear on the bend of the mainspring. 

Marking Gauge .—A wood marking gauge is used 
for laying out lines parallel to a surface already 
formed. If made of beech wood, and plain, it is 
generally sold for about 25 cents each. 

Screw-cutting Tools .—A small die stock and dies, 
with taps for lock work, will cost about $2.50. A 
plate and ten taps, suitable for all sizes of nipples, 
English and German, can be had for about $8.00. 

Screiv Wrench .—One of Coe’s patent wrenches, 
about twelve-inch size, costing about a dollar, is the 
best make and the most durable size for all pur¬ 
poses. This wrench is generally known as a 
“ monkey wrench.” 

Soldering Copper .—A copper for soldering, sim 
ilar to the kind used by tinners, is the kind to get. 
A good size—No. 3—will weigh about a pound and 
a half, costing about 75 cents. 

Screiv drivers .—Several screw-drivers are requir¬ 
ed, and of several widths, to fit different sized 
screw heads. The narrowest may be about one* 


68 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


eighth inch, and the widest, say, half inch to five- 
eighths inch. If the mechanic desires to make 
these himself, select octagon steel, about one-quar¬ 
ter inch diameter, draw one end to form the tang, 
and the other to form the screw-driving part. Get 
good apple, beech or maple wood handles. Let the 
length project about six or seven inches from the 
handle. For the larger size screw-drivers get steel 
three-eighths diameter. Old files, with the temper 
drawn and the points ground to shape, make a pass¬ 
able screw-driver. Screw-drivers purchased at the 
store, are generally not so satisfactory as those made 
from rods. Stub’s round steel wire rod makes good 
screwdrivers. 

Pliers —Three kinds of pliers are used by gun¬ 
smiths ; flat nose, round nose, and long flat nose or 
clock-makers’ pliers. Six inch is about the right 
length for general use. The round nose are useful 
for bending wire or metal into circular forms. The 
long flat nose for holding work for soldering and 
handling work at the forge. Of the flat nose a five 
inch pair are useful in many cases. The cost of 
pliers (six inch), is from about 50 cents to $1.00 per 
pair according to quality. 

Wing Dividers —A pair of wing dividers, about 
eight inches in length, will be found the best size for 
general use. The cost will be about 75 cents. In 
purchasing see that the screw that binds the leg to 
the arc or wing is well fitted. The thread, either in 
the leg or the screw, is sometimes stripped or worn 
out after a little using. 


CHAPTER VIII. 


TOOLS, ETC., AND HOW TO MAKE THEM. 

The tools given in this chapter are such as are 
needed by the gunsmith, and as directions are given 
for making them, they can be made by almost any 
ingenious person during leisure hours. 

The Alcohol Lamp .—A lamp for this kind of work 
is easily made. A common gum or mucilage bottle 
with a tube inserted in the cork has been used, so 
has a small tin spice-box, with a tube soldered into 
the cover. A common copper or brass cartridge, 
with the head filed off, can be used for a tube. A 
common oil can, such as is used for oiling sewing 
machines, with about half of the taper tube cut off, 
will make a serviceable lamp. These appliances are 
small, unsightly and not to the taste of the mechanic 
who has a pride in the appearance of his tools. 

The best form of lamp, shown in Fig. 10, may be 
made by obtaining a small glass kerosene hand lamp, 
which will cost only a trifle of two or three shillings. 
Cut off that portion of the burner above the screw, 
where it is held to the socket that is fastened to the 
lamp. Remove the tube that holds the lamp-wick 
and also the little contrivance made to raise and 
lower the wick. In the place where the tube was 
inserted, generally a flat one, file out with a round 


60 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

file, a place which is large enough to receive a 
common brass 44-cartridge that has had the head 
cut off or removed by filing; this is the tube for the 
wick. Fasten it in place with soft solder. Let this 
tube project a little into the lamp, and solder it on 
the under side. The greater portion of the tube pro¬ 
jects above the place where soldered. 



Figure 10. 


The wick is made of common cotton wicking, 
letting the end inside touch the bottom of the lamp. 
Fill with alcohol, and the lamp is ready for use. Be 
careful that the wick is not too tight in the tube, or 
in other words, do not fill the tube with too much 
wick, as it will prevent the alcohol from rising and the 
lamp from burning. To prevent evaporation of the 






























TOOLS, ETC., AND HOW TO MAKE THEM. 61 

alcohol and to have the wick always ready for light¬ 
ing, cover the tube with a cap that fits it quite closely 
and has the upper end closed. A brass cartridge 
that will go over the tube makes a good cover. Re¬ 
move the primed cap or see that the cap has been 
exploded before using it to cover the lamp tube. 

A Self-blowing Lamp .—A very good form of this 
lamp is shown m Fig. 11. It consists of a lamp en- 



FlGURE 11. 


closed in a kind of cup which has an open place at 
the bottom to admit the lamp and a small boiler, 
fitting loosely, and held by a flange on its top. A 
small pipe is soldered to the top of this boiler and 
extends downward, and has an end like a blow-pipe 













































































































62 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


that passes through one side of the cup and ends 
near or a little above the lamp wick. The operation 
is as follows: the lamp being lighted, heats alcohol 
placed in the boiler, and the steam thereby made 
produces a jet that blows the lamp flame the same 
as is done with the mouth. 

The size of the cup may be from three inches to 
three and a half in diameter, and about five inches 
high. The opening at the bottom may extend about 
half of the height. The lamp is made of less diam¬ 
eter than the interior of the cup to admit of moving 
to get a good flame from the blow-pipe. The lamp 
may be If inches in diameter and an inch high. The 
boiler is about two inches high and has the bottom 
made a little convex, as shown by dotted lines, 
and is some smaller than at the top where a flange 
is formed to admit of its resting on the top of the 
cup. The top of the boiler is also convex, and has a 
short tube in which a cork is fitted, for the purpose 
of filling it. The blowing tube is about three-six¬ 
teenths of an inch in diameter. There is a long slot 
in the cup near its handle which readily admits of 
its being put in position for blowing. There are 
several small holes near the top of the cup to insure 
draft to the lamp, and there is a large hole about an 
inch in diameter opposite the end of the blow-pipe 
through which the flame issues where the work is 
held. 

For silver soldering, small brazing, tempering, or 
any similar small work, this lamp is most excellent. 
To make the small blowing-pipe, drill a smooth hole 


TOOLS, ETC., AND HOW TO MAKE THEM. 63 

through a piece of iron or steel and ream out one 
side of it. Cut a strip of thin copper or soft brass of 
a width just enough to fill the hole if it were made 
into a tube. Point one end of the strip and roughly 
form it into a tube, insert in the hole and pull it 
through. Or the strip can be rolled around a piece 
of iron wire forming it to a tube by hammering. 
Soft solder it after being formed to shape. 

Breech Wrenches .—In many shops the monkey 
wrench is made to do duty in removing breech-pins, 



Figure 12 . 


but at the expense of marring the pin where the 
wrench engages it. If many guns with breech-pins 
like those used in army guns are handled, it is worth 
while to have solid wrenches forged of iron like Fig. 
12. The length may be about fifteen inches, with 
an opening to fit the shoulder of the breech-pin. 
The width at this place may be about one and a half 
inches ; thickness, about half an inch ; diameter at 
end of handle, about three-quarters of an inch, and 
at the small portions near the centre, about half an 
inch. 

A wrench for removing patent breeches or nuts 
from double guns is made like Fig. 13. It consists 
of a steel bar about fifteen or sixteen inches long 
and about three-quarters of an inch diameter. At a 
little to one side of the center is fastened a steel col¬ 
lar that has four projections made at one end, A 








64 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


similar piece is fitted opposite to it, but is made to 
move back and forth to fit the work by means of a 
screw that is formed behind where it is fitted. A 
slot is made in the extension of the piece and a key 
fitted to prevent its turning around as the nut is 
turned to advance it toward its fellow piece. 

The only substitute to answer for this tool is to 
file down the jaws of a monkey wrench so that they 
will turn between the extensions of a patent breech 
while the first breech is being removed. This is a 
poor substitute, as there is only one handle to turn 
with, and when force is applied to remove the breech 



Figure 13. 


it does not have the force applied equally to each 
side as in the other kind of wrench, consequently it 
is not as effective nor so easy to remove the breech. 
If an extension to form another handle could be im¬ 
provised it would make it much better. 

The Bit Stock .—Even if the gunsmith have a 
lathe there is much work that can be done to ad¬ 
vantage with a common bit-stock. But as the drills 
and tools used in the lathe generally have round 
shanks by which to hold them in the chuck, the 
square hole where bits and tools are held in the 
bit stock must be filled by brazing or soldering a 

















TOOLS ETC., AND HOW TO MAKE THEM. G5 

piece of iron into it and boring a hole to fit the 
shank of the lathe tools. It is advisable to have 
these shanks about seven-sixteenths diameter, as 
explained under the heading “ Shanks of Tools.” 

In holding small drills made of steel wire or twist 
drills a small drill chuck must be fitted to the bit 
stock. 

A small solid chuck with a quarter inch hole may 
be made with a shank to fit the seven-sixteenth hole. 
A set screw must be fitted to hold the shanks of the 
two sizes mentioned. 

Bottoming Tools .—Bottoming tools are used for 
letting in locks, cutting out for escutcheons, and are 
useful in other places where a chisel cannot be made 



Figure 14. 


to operate. The form of this tool is shown in 
Fig. 14. It consists of a square or round shank 
about three-sixteenths or a quarter-inch in diameter 
and about six inches long. At one end a wooden 
handle is attached, and the other end is bent at 
an angle which is about half an inch or perhaps 
a little more, and on this angle is another one 
turned parallel with the shank and which is about 
three-eighths of an inch long. This is the cut¬ 
ting end and is fashioned like the cutting edge 





66 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

of a chisel, and is about a quarter of an inch 
wide. The bottom side, as it would be held for use, 
is ground flat and the upper side bevelled like a 
chisel. The cutting edge may be square or rounded 
to suit round places as letting in the bridle of a 
lock. The size given is that generally used, but if 
it be made about twice this size it will be found very 
useful in letting in octogon rifle barrels ; if the tool 
be made larger and hollow like a gouge it is very 
useful in letting in round gun barrels. In letting in 
break off straps it will be found to take the place of 
a chisel to some advantage. 

Chequering Tools .—The tools used for chequering 
are very simple. Imagine a small saw, or rather 


-= 

Figure 15. 

two small saws about one inch or more long, made 
at the end of a straight steel shank. The form is 
given in Fig. 15. The double saw can be made by 
filing it as one thick saw and then cutting a groove 
lengthwise with it. In using, one blade first forms 
a groove and the other blade works the next cut; 
as the first cut is finished, another mark is being- 
made while so doing. This insures equal width of 
the cuts. Care must be exercised in using them so 
as not to tear the wood. A fine cut, sharp edged, 
three square or a small half round file may be used 
to finish the work if desired. 









TOOLS, ETC., AND HOW TO MAKE THEM. G7 

Nipple Wrenches .—Two forms of nipple wrenches 
are used, one for square and the other for two sided 
nipples. The most serviceable of these are made 
from a straight rod of steel, with a cross han¬ 
dle and an opening at the opposite end to cor¬ 
respond with the square on the nipple. For 
the two-sided, a hole to receive the round part of 
the nipple where the cap goes on, may be drilled in a 
rod of steel and a slot filed across to receive the 
shoulders of the sides. The square shouldered 
kind must have a hole drilled of the diameter of the 
square, and then being heated a square punch of the 
size of the square is driven in. The nipples used for 
Government or military arms have the squares lar¬ 
ger than sporting guns, and the wrenches are gen¬ 
erally made of a flat piece of steel with a square 
hole made through from side to side at one end and 
squared to fit the tube. When made, harden and 
draw to a blue color for temper. 

Portable Forge .—The following description of a 
“home made” portable forge shown in Fig. 16 is 
given by a contributor to the Blacksmith and 
Wheelwright: “In size it is two feet square and 
three feet high ; it is made entirely of wood ; the 
bellows are round and are sixteen and a half inches 
in size, covered then with the best sheep skins. The 
bed of the forge consists of a box six inches deep. 
It is supported by corner posts, all as shown in the 
sketch. Through the centre of the bottom is a hole 
iix inches in diameter for the tuyere ; this is three 
inches in outside diameter,' and is six inches high. 


68 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL 


The bed is lined with brick and clay. Ifc does not 
heat through. The bellows are blown up by means 
of two half circles with straps from a board running 
across the bottom, all of which will be better under- 



Figuke 16. 


stood by reference to the sketch. In addition to pro¬ 
tecting the bed by brick and clay, the tuyere is set 
through a piece of sheet iron doubled and properly 
secured in place. The hood which surmounts the 






































































TOOLS, ETC., AND HOW TO MAKE THEM. 69 

forge may be made out of old sheet iron, and will be 
found sufficient for the purpose. The connection 
between the tuyere and bellows is a tin pipe.” 

Vise Appendages .—The best vise for general use 
is one made by C. Parker, Meriden, Conn., and is 
termed a “swivel” vise. To the bench is attached 
a round plate of iron, and on this plate the vise 
turns to right or left as may be desired. It is held 
in position by screwing up a nut by means of a han- 



Figuke 17. 


die underneath the bench. The jaws are of steel, 
and a small projection back of the jaws, formed 
like a small anvil, is very convenient for bending 
work or to lay work upon for cutting, working with 
prick punch, etc. The width of jaws of No. 22, 
the size that is most convenient, is three and five- 
eighths inches, the weight about thirty-five or forty 
pounds, and the price about eight dollars, or perhaps 
a little more. This vise is shown in Fig. 17. 
















































































70 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


As the jaws of the vise where the steel faces 
come together are cut like a file and tempered, they 
will necessarily mar or bruise the work. Pieces of 
brass or copper must be bent so as to be retained in 
place and at the same time cover the file-like surface 
of the jaws. Pieces of leather, common belt leather, 
upon which a little beeswax has been spread, may 
be placed between the jaws, and by forcing them to¬ 
gether with the screw the leather will be retained in 
place. In holding barrels, stocks,and for stocking a 
fixture made like the cut, Fig. 18 , is best. Two 



Figure 18. 


pieces of thin board, or even two pieces of a wide 
barrel stave may make it. The opening is for the 
purpose of straddling ” the square box of the vise 
that encloses the screw. Nail a piece of wood about 
an inch and a half thick across the bottom part, be¬ 
fore the opening is made, and also nail a thin piece 
across the top of the pieces, being careful to sink 
the nail heads to as to not mar the work. The top 
ends of the fixture must come even with the top of 
the vise jaws. 

For holding screws without damaging the heads 
use a pair of false jaws mad r of cast brass, like those 



TOOLS, ETC., AND HOW TO MAKE THEM. 7l 

shown in Fig. 19. The heads being held in the in¬ 
dentations formed along the upper edges of the fix¬ 
ture. For holding rods or small square pieces with- 



Figure 19. 


out injury a similar pair of false jaws are made 
which are shown in Fig. 20. 

For holding articles that are tapering a fixture is 
required like that given in Fig. 21. The yoke clasps 



Figure 20. 

the neck of the vise, and is held in place by a set¬ 
screw. The upright pin is received in the yoke by 
turning on a screw cut for the purpose, and by turn¬ 
ing this up or down, the triangular piece at the upper 



































72 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


part is made to accommodate itself to the height of 
the vise. The back angular corner of this piece has 
a bearing against the jaw of the vise, and the open¬ 
ing made between the other jaw of the vise and the 
front of this angular piece will be the same as the 
piece of work that is held between the two. 

Shanks of Tools .—The best two sizes for shanks 
of tools are about seven-sixteenths and about 
quarter-inch. Two solid chucks, fitted with set- 



Figure 21, 

screws, may be made for the lathe, and they will be 
found sufficient for all kinds of work. If half-inch 
octagon steel be used for the larger size, a light chip 
turned off for about an inch and a quarter, or an 
inch and a half, will make the shank. From this 
size steel may be made large drills, reamers, coun¬ 
tersinks, bullet cherries, etc. The shanks of many 
other tools may be made to this standard. 
When a bit stock is fitted to hold this size of shank, 
the tools may be used either in the lathe or by hand 
with the bit stock. 

















































































TOOLS, ETC., AND HOW TO MAKE THEM. 73 

Octagon steel, a quarter-inch in diameter, may be 
used for smaller tools, or round steel rod of this size 
may be employed. For small drills and tools, taps, 
etc., it will be found very convenient. No turning 
is necessary to fit to the solid chuck. 

The common cheap bit stock, made from round 
steel, may be selected, and the square hole filled with 
a piece of iron and then brazed to make it solid. A 
hole is then drilled to fit the seven-sixteenths shank. 
A solid chuck is to be made to fit this, and drilled 
with a quarter-inch hole to fit the smaller sized 
shanks. This solid chuck will also fit the chuck for 
the lathe. If barrel boring tools, quick boring 
reamers, be made with the larger sized shank, they 
can be used both in the lathe and with the bit stock. 


CHAPTER IX. 


THE WORK BENCH. 

Material for the Work Bench .—The first thing to 
do in fitting up a shop is to put up a work bench. 
Do not make a rude affair of an unplaned plank and 
a rough board, but let it be seen that you fitted up 
your bench for use, and at the same time sought to 
have it neat and durable. A plank two inches 
thick is heavy enough, yet in some respects it is 
light enough; for the front portion of the bench 
twelve or fourteen inches is a good width. Pine 
wood makes a very good bench, but as it is soft, it 
will absorb oil, and in time will become black and 
dirty. As a remedy for this, give it two or three 
coats of shellac varnish. The best bench is made 
from a hard or sugar maple plank that has been 
well seasoned and has been planed true in a planing 
machine. Ash wood does very well, so does beech. 
Oak is not good; it absorbs grease and dirt readily, 
and if struck much with a hammer will soon show 
splinters, the fibres of the wood easily separating by 
the blows. A hard maple plank has one advan¬ 
tage; after being discarded as a bench, it will make 
good rifle stocks; the years of use will so season it 
that it will be valuable. For that part of the bench 


THE WORK BENCH. 


75 


—that is, back of the two-inch plank—use a board 
ten or twelve inches wide. Select pine or any other 
kind that fancy may dictate. Calculate the plank 
and board so that the width of the bench will be 
twenty-two or twenty-four inches. 

How to Make the Work Bench .—For supports for 
the bench use 2x4 inch studding, such as carpenters 
use in house building. Pine, oak or any other ma¬ 
terial will answer. Plane smooth on all sides. For 
each support cut three pieces; two of the height of 
the bench, and one about an inch less than the width, 
so that when the bench is made the plank in front 
projects an inch or so in front of the supports. As 
the short piece on which the bench rests is four 
inches wide, cut away half of the thickness of the 
uprights of this width at the upper end, and cut 
enough in length to receive the short piece, when 
it is halved together—as is the term used—thus 
making it four inches thick when put in place. 
Fasten with nails or screws—the latter being the 
best fastening. To keep these uprights steady, nail 
a piece of board about three inches wide, and about 
twelve inches from the bottom, from front to the 
rear upright. On these pieces a board or two may 
be placed, with the other end resting upon a neigh¬ 
boring support, and it forms a convenient shelf 
upon which to place boxes and other things that 
will soon accumulate in any shop. 

The height of bench from the floor may be about 
two feet and ten inches and a half. This will be 
found to be the most convenient height. 


76 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


Patting the Vise in Place .—In putting the vise in 
place, fix it on the bench far enough in front so that 
if a gun stock or barrel were held upright in the 
jaws it will not touch the bench. If there be a 
window in front, put it a little to the left of the 
window. The light will then shine more on the 
right side of the vise, and consequently it will be 
more easy to distinguish lines or marks that may 
be made on work held in the jaws, as it is more 
convenient to look on the right side of work to see 
what is being done than on the left. The height of 
the vise at the top of the jaws should be on a level 
with the elbow of the person who is to work at it. 
In no instance try to work with the jaws of the vise 
higher than the elbows as the workman stands erect 
before it. The reason is this: as the workman 
grasps the file handle in the right hand and the 
point of the file in the left, the arms are in a natural 
position, and can be thrust forward and brought 
back in a horizontal line. If the elbows were to be 
raised from the natural position the horizontal for¬ 
ward and back motion could not be made with 
facility. 

Place for Draiver .—A few inches to the right of 
the vise is the best location for a drawer. This is 
generally opened or drawn out with the right hand, 
and when so placed can be readily opened with that 
hand without stepping to one side. 

The Gun Brace .—A gun brace, as shown in Fig. 
22, is made from a piece of inch and a half or two 
inch plank, with its upper edge of a height about 


THE WORK BENCH. 


71 


an inch less than the height of the vise jaws. It is 
hinged or pivoted by a single screw passing through 
the end of the bottom extension, this screw passing 
into the bench, the brace turning freely upon it. It 
can be swung around back out of the way, and when 
needed for use is turned in front, and is ready to 
support a barrel or gun stock which is held in the 
vise. This brace is put to the right of the vise, but 
if another one like it is put in the left side it will be 
found useful at times. 

In cutting out gun-stocks from the plank, many 
times pieces of just the right form for these braces 



Figure 22 . 


will be found among the “scraps” that will be 
made. The shape is of little moment so long, as 
they are of the proper height and have an extension 
through which to put the pivot screw. 

To Deaden the Noise of Hammering —In shops, 
especially if the work-room be in an upper story, to 
deaden the noise of hammering, etc., put pieces of 
rubber under the legs of work benches, the feet of 
lathes, anvil-block, etc. If rubber cannot be ob¬ 
tained, any woolen texture as felt or thick loose- 



























































































78 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

made cloth may answer the purpose, but not with 
so good results as the rubber. The anvil may be 
set in a tub made by cutting off the top of a barrel 
to the right heigth and filling it nearly full of 
sand or earth. 


CHAPTER X. 


ON WORKING IN IRON. 

Hand-Forging .—Two rates of heat figure in this 
operation. If the object is merely a smoothing of 
the surface of the iron, the “cherry-red heat,” so- 
called, is the rate wanted. The work of smoothing 
is performed by striking lightly and evenly with the 
hand-hammer, until the desired condition is secured. 
The same degree of heat is employed where hammer¬ 
hardening the iron is one of the objects to be ob¬ 
tained ; in this case the blows with the hammer 
must be heavier than in the case first named. 

If the forging is to extend to a material change 
in the shape of the iron, the rate of heat must be 
much higher ; it must be increased to what smiths 
call the “ white flame heat.” The hammering must 
be much heavier, of course ; if the piece is large a 
sledge-hammer must be brought into requisition. 
But the gunsmith will seldom have work heavy 
enough to demand the aid of an assistant with a 
sledge-hammer. 

Welding .—The “welding” or “sparkling heat” 
is required in this process, which is a higher degree 
of heat than either named in the forgoing. In secur¬ 
ing this heat, the metal is brought nearly to a state 


80 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


of fusion ; which condition is made known by its 
sparkling, and presenting the appearance of being 
covered with a glaze, or a fresh coat of varnish. So 
soon as the two pieces of iron to be welded together 
have both attained to this necessary degree of heat, 
they are taken from the fire with the utmost dis¬ 
patch, the scales or dirt which would hinder their 
incorporation scraped off, placed in contact at the 
heated point, and hammered until a union has been 
effected, and no seam or fissure remains visible. If 
the first effort fails to unite them sufficiently, they 
must be reheated and rehammered until the desired 
end is secured. 

The fire for welding should be free from sulphur ; 
and the iron, while heating, should be taken out 
now and then and sprinkled over at the point of 
greatest heat with powdered glass, or with powdered 
borax. A small proportion of sand or powdered 
clay is sometimes mixed with the borax. These ap¬ 
plications tend to prevent the iron from running or 
burning, and they are supposed to assist the adhe¬ 
sion when the two pieces are brought together in 
the act of welding. 

Hardening Iron by Hammering .—Iron may be 
hardened to the character of a pretty fair spring metal 
by simply hammering it thoroughly while in a cold 
state. Many of the cheap spiral springs in use, as 
those attached to small bells for the purpose of 
imparting a vibratory motion, are hardened or 
stiffened in this way.. They are first cut from soft 
sheet-iron and then hammered into .the required 


ON WORKING IN IRON. 


81 


hardness. Some heat to a cherry red and hammer 
to and after entire coldness. 

Case - Hardening . — The various parts of gun 
mountings, such as guards, heel plates, etc., and 
the different parts of locks, such as hammers, tum¬ 
blers, triggers and plates, as received by the gun¬ 
smith from the manufacturer or dealer in such arti¬ 
cles, are generally in the rough or partially finished 
condition. Many gunsmiths, particularly those in 
the country, where there is more or less a class of 
cheap work, finish up these parts with a file and a 
little hand polishing, and when the work is put 
together hand it over to the customer. Not only 
tumblers and triggers, but even sears and tubes are 
finished up in this manner. As these parts are 
almost always made of soft iron, the result is they 
soon wear and have to be repaired. 

The gunsmith who does good work will thor¬ 
oughly case-harden the parts when they are fitted 
and finished, and by so doing will turn out a really 
good piece of work that will wear as well as hard¬ 
ened steel. Why the majority of the trade do not 
case-harden their work cannot very well he ex¬ 
plained, unless they are ignorant of the process or 
do not care to be put to the trouble of doing it. It 
is true it may be made a tedious job or a quick and 
easy one. 

Some gunsmiths, when such work is finished, 
heat it red hot, smear it with prusiate of potash or 
cyanide of potassium, and while hot, plunge it into 
cold water, letting it chill. This produces a super- 


82 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


ficially hardened surface that is not “skin deep,” 
and as soon as this surface becomes abraded will 
wear away rapidly. 

If the case-hardening of the expert manufacturer 
be examined, it will be observed that the surface of 
such work has a fine grayish appearance, and in 
many places mottled with colored tints that are 
pleasing and beautiful to the mechanical eye. It 
will be further observed that the hardening is of 
such depth that it will wear for a long time. In 
fact it will wear better than hardened steel. The 
condition of the material is that of a hardened steel 
surface stretched over and shrunk upon the iron 
body of the work. It is stronger than steel, for it 
has the tenacity of iron for its interior. It has the 
advantage of steel, inasmuch as it may be bent 
when cold to a limited degree, and when so hard¬ 
ened will not break as readily as steel. This prop¬ 
erty of bending is not confined to all articles, as 
they may case-harden entirely through, and then 
they will be very brittle and easily broken, but by 
drawing them to temper after hardening, in the 
same manner as a tool is drawn to temper, they 
may be of any hardness desired. 

A good way to Case-Harden .—The easiest and 
perhaps the best way to case-harden gun work is to 
have a number of short pieces of common gas pipe, 
such as will be adapted to the size or quantity of the 
work, and have one end of these pieces securely 
plugged or closed. One way will be to heat the 
pipe and close by flattening the end with a hammer 


ON WORKING IN IRON. 


83 


on the anvil, but it is a “ slouchy ” way of doing it. 
A neater way is to have a gas fitter cut a thread in 
the pipe and then screw in a plug, such as are used 
to close ends of gas pipe; if such cannot be obtained, 
drive in a cast-iron plug and upset the end of the 
pipe so that it will not readily come out. In these 
pieces of pipe place the work, packing it well with 
good, tine bone-dust, such as is used by farmers for 
fertilizing land. Be careful to so pack that the dif¬ 
ferent pieces of work will not touch each other. 
Stop the open end of the pipe with a cover, but in 
such a manner as to be readily opened; place the 
pipe and its contents in a good fire, letting it remain 
at a red heat for fifteen minutes or more, dependent 
upon the thickness of the articles or the depth they 
should be hardened. Remove from the fire and 
quickly empty the contents of the pipe into a pail 
of cold water. 

If pieces of gas pipe cannot very well be obtained, 
thimbles from old carriage hubs may be used in¬ 
stead. Plug up the small end, fit a cover to the 
large end and use as if it were gas pipe. As these 
thimbles are made of cast iron they will not bear 
the rough usage nor the heat that wrought iron will 
withstand. Common cast malleable iron makes the 
best receptacles to contain work for case-hardening. 

Articles of malleable iron and cast iron are as 
easily case-hardened as wrought iron. A poor qual¬ 
ity of steel is benefited by the operation, as the 
metal imbibes carbon in which it was before de¬ 
ficient. 


84 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

Material for Case-Hardening .—For case-harden¬ 
ing, bone-dust is the article most readily obtained and 
it is clean and neat to use ; but it will not produce 
the mottled tints that charred or burned leather will 
give. The leather may be prepared by cutting up 
old shoes or boots, putting them in an old pan and 
setting the mass on fire. Let it burn until it is a 
charcoal that will readily crumble in pieces by using 
a little force. Grind this charcoal to a fine powder 
by pounding in a mortar or by running it through 
an old coffee or spice mill. Pack the work with the 
powder, the same as bone-dust. Bone-black may 
be used the same as bone-dust, but it is not very 
satisfactory in its results. It is also dirty to use 
and to have around a shop. Ivory dust will also 
answer the same purpose as bone-dust. Gun 
guards, straps. and long pieces of work will become 
shorter by case-hardening, and it is best not to fit 
such pieces into the stock until after they are hard¬ 
ened. If it be desired to have a portion of the work 
left soft and the other parts hardened, securely 
cover the places to be left soft, with a coating of 
moist clay, and this will prevent the hardening 
material from coming in contact, and, consequently, 
it will have no opportunity to absorb carbon and 
harden when put in the cold water. 

It may also be observed that articles that are case- 
hardened will not rust so readily as those not so 
treated. 

If the articles be quite thin and there be danger 
of their cracking by sudden chilling, the water may 


ON WORKING IN IRON. 


85 


be warmed a little, or a film of oil may be spread on 
the water which will tend to prevent a too sudden 
contraction of the articles while cooling. 

If it be desired to have the work present the 
colors or mottled tints as seen on some kinds of 
case- ardened gun work, the surface of the work 
before being put in the receptacles containing the 
burnt leather, must be nicely polished and then 
buffed or burnished. The higher the finish the 
more brilliant will be the colors. 

In using prusiate of potash to case-harden, the 
potash must be finely powdered, the work heated 
and dipped in, or if the work be large the potash 
must be spread over it. The work must be hot 
nough to fuse the potash, and if it become some¬ 
what cold by removing from the fire it must be re¬ 
heated, removed quickly from the fire and quenched 
in cold water. 

Another way to Case-Harden .—Collect such arti¬ 
cles of animal origin as cows’ horns, or hoofs of 
either cows or horses, or leather trimmings from 
about the shoe-shops, or old cast off boots or shoes, and 
burn them until sufficiently charred to admit of being 
easily pounded into a powder. Having finished up 
the article to be hardened, ready for the final polish, 
place it in an iron box, and surround it completely 
On all sides by a packing of the powder. Pour into 
the box, until the powder is made moist, a saturated 
solution of common salt in urine. Next close the 
box and seal it until airtight, with wet and well- 
worked clay, then put it into the furnace and blow 


86 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


up gradually until heated to a cherry red. Don 5 
run the heat any higher, but hold it at that about 
five minutes, then take out and plunge at once into 
the slack-tub. 

By this means a piece of soft malleable iron is ren¬ 
dered as hard as hardened steel. Some workmen 
contend that the salt solution is of no particular im¬ 
portance—that just as good results will come of 
packing in the animal charcoal alone. The iron box, 
though very convenient when a good deal of case- 
hardening is to be done, is not an absolute necessity, 
If the article, surrounded by the animal charcoal, is 
incased in a ball of stiff and well-worked clay, and 
then exposed to the proper heat and slacking, the 
results will be the same as if heated in an iron box. 

Another Formula .—In earlier times, when guns 
were more in use than either agricultural or me¬ 
chanical implements, and there was a gunsmith’s 
shop at almost every cross-road, they had a way of 
case-hardening that was much more simple than 
either of the foregoing, and yet quite effectual. 
Scraps of old leather, as cut from old boots or shoes, 
were tightly wrapped and tied around the piece of 
iron to be made hard, to the extent of several thick¬ 
nesses. Around this was placed a layer of sand and 
salt in equal proportions, to the thickness of half an 
inch. The sand and salt was dampened with water 
to make it stick together. A layer of plastic clay, 
an inch in thickness, was worked around the whole, 
and the ball, so made, was exposed to heat at about 
the cherry-red degree, sufficiently long to consume 



ON WORKING IN IRON. 


87 


the leather, when it was dropped suddenly into the 
slack-tub. 

Still Another Formula. —Make a powder of pul¬ 
verized prussiate of potash, sal-ammoniac and salt¬ 
petre in equal parts. Heat the iron to cherry-red 
and sprinkle thoroughly on all sides with the pow¬ 
der, then immediately plunge into the slack-tub. 

Some smiths contend that the pulverized prussiate 
of potash, used in the same way, is entirely effec¬ 
tual without the other ingredients. 

To Chill Cast Iron . —Make a powder by pulveriz¬ 
ing together, salt, 2 lbs.; saltpetre, £ lb.; alum, £ lb.; 
ammonia, 4 ozs., and salts of tartar, 4 ozs. Heat 
the iron to cherry-red, sprinkle thoroughly with the 
powder and then plunge into cold water. 

Another Mode. —Make a solution by dissolving in 
10 gallons of soft water, salt, 1 peck; oil vitrol, £ pint; 
saltpetre, J lb.; prussiate of potash, £ lb., and cya¬ 
nide of potassium, J lb. Heat the iron to cherry-red 
and plunge at once into the cold solution. This 
makes cast iron hard enough to cut glass, and is the 
method usually resorted to for hardening the cheap 
cast-iron glass cutters, now so common on the mar¬ 
ket. 

To Soften Wrought Iron. —Heat the iron with a 
slow blast to a dark-red, then pour upon the burn¬ 
ing coals half a pint of fluoric acid. Keep up the 
blast gently, without increasing the degree of heat, 
until all sign of the acid has disappeared, then lay 
out the iron to cool gradually of itself. 

Alloy for Filling Holes in Iron. —Melt together 


88 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

nine parts lead, two parts antimony and one part 
bismuth. Pour into the hole while in a moulten 
state, or drive in while the iron is somewhat hot. 
This alloy possesses the peculiarity of expanding as 
it cools, consequently the plug tightens as its tem¬ 
perature falls. 

To Harden Iron for Polishing .—Pulverize and dis¬ 
solve the following-named articles in one quart of 
boiling water: blue vitrol, 1 ounce; borax, 1 ounce; 
prussiate of potash, 1 ounce; charcoal, 1 ounce, and 
common salt, } pint. Add to this 1 gallon raw lin¬ 
seed oil. Having finished up the article ready for 
polishing, heat it to a cherry-red, and plunge into 
the mixture; a rapid stirring of the mixture should 
be going on at the time when the plunge is made. 

This preparation hardens the iron to such a de¬ 
gree that it takes and retains polish almost equal to 
the best of steel. 


CHAPTER XI. 


ON WORKING IN STEEL. 

Hand-Forging Steel .—In the main this does not 
differ materially from the same work in iron. Spec¬ 
ial care must be exercised to have the fire clear of 
sulphur, hence charcoal is the best fuel to use. In 
cases where the use of bituminous coal cannot be 
avoided, the fire should be blowed up for several 
minutes before putting in the steel, to drive off the 
sulphur. 

Steel to be forged should not be heated to so high 
a degree as is employed for iron; for ordinary light 
work a little above a cherry-red is enough. It does 
not work well under a high degree of heat; and, to 
make amends, it can be worked much colder than 
iron. In fact, it is always best to hammer it with 
light blows until the red color of the heat has en¬ 
tirely disappeared, as this improves its texture by 
adding decidedly to the closeness of the grain. 

Welding Steel .—The common method employed 
for welding iron to iron is often resorted to for weld¬ 
ing steel to steel, but a great deal more care is neces¬ 
sary to success in the latter than in the former case. 
There must be much precision so far as relates to 
the rate of heat, as the margin for variation is ex¬ 
tremely small. If the temperature is not high 


90 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


enough there will be no adhesion, of course; and if 
it attains to only a few degrees above what is ac¬ 
tually necessary, the steel either “runs” and is 
ruined, or is ruined by going into an unworkable 
condition known as “burnt.” It sometimes be¬ 
comes necessary to weld steel and iron together; 
this may be effected by the same process as that 
employed in welding steel to steel. None but work¬ 
men of thorough experience would be apt to suc¬ 
ceed in either case, on the old plan of proceeding the 
same as in welding iron to iron. 

But steel may be more easily welded than on the 
old plan by the employment of certain welding com¬ 
positions. One of them consists of half a pound of 
saltpetre dissolved in half a pound of oil of vitriol, 
and afterwards added to two gallons of soft water. 
Heat the pieces to a cherry-red, then plunge them 
into this composition; after which proceed to reheat 
and weld in the usual way. At the welding the 
strokes of the hammer should be quick and light. 

Another composition is made by pulverizing to¬ 
gether ten parts of borax and one part of sal-ammo¬ 
niac. Thoroughly melt the composition so made in 
an iron pot, then pour out upon some level surface 
to cool. When cooled grind to a fine powder. Heat 
the pieces of steel and sprinkle this welding powder 
over them; then return to the fire, and again heat 
up, and it is ready to go together under the ham¬ 
mer. 

Some smiths claim to weld steel successfully by 
dusting over the heated pieces a powder composed 


ON WORKING IN STEEL. 


91 


of clear white sand, 2 lbs., and plaster of Paris, 1 lb.; 
then reheating and proceeding in the usual way. 

In welding steel to iron the foregoing processes 
are employed the same as if both pieces were steel. 

Tempering .—Heat the steel to a bright cherry-red, 
and plunge it at once into cold water. It will then be 
as hard as fire and water could make it, and too 
hard for anything except hardened bearings for ma¬ 
chinery, or for some kind of implements necessary 
to be extremely hard, as tools for cutting glass, and 
the like. In this condition it is almost as brittle 
as glass itself, and hence would not stand for most 
of the uses to which tempered steel is applied. Its 
great degree of hardness must, therefore, be reduced 
to the proper standard, depending upon what it is 
to be used for. This is done by heating and closely 
observing the resulting colors as they appear upon 
the metal. If the piece under process is an edge- 
tool of considerable bulk, only the cutting-edge, 
and a little back of it, is plunged into the water at 
the hardening, the rest of the implement being left 
still hot. It is then held into the light and observed 
closely, when the different colors, indicating the dif¬ 
ferent degrees of hardness, will be seen moving 
slowly, one after the other, down towards the edge, 
driven by the heat still left in the part of the metal 
not plunged. When the color wanted has reached 
the edge, the entire piece is plunged into the slack- 
tub, which stops further action of the heat, and 
establishes the required degree of hardness exactly 
where it is desired. But very light articles and im- 


92 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


plements cannot be tempered in this way, as they 
will not retain sufficient heat to drive the colors; it 
will be necessary to reheat them gradually in some 
way to make the colors move. Very light pieces, 
as drills and the like, are best tempered in a spirit or 
alcohol lamp; after having been hardened they 
should be held in the flame of the lamp a little back 
of the point or cutting-edge, which will enable the 
operator to note the movement of the colors. In 
this case his actions, so far as the colors are con¬ 
cerned, will be governed the same as in the other. 
Small articles to be tempered alike all over may be 
placed upon a bit of sheet-iron, after hardening, and 
the iron held over the fire of the forge, or directly 
over the flame of the lamp, until the required color 
has appeared, when they must be quickly plunged 
into the water. On large articles the colors will be 
often so strongly marked as to be readily seen on 
the surface of the metal, rough, just as it came 
from the hammer, but in small articles they will be 
somewhat faint; hence it is best to give small arti¬ 
cles a slight polish before exposing them to heat for 
drawing the temper. Nine shades of color will pre¬ 
sent themselves one after the other as a piece of 
thoroughly-hardened steel is exposed to gradually- 
increasing heat. They are: 

1. Very faint yellow, appearing at a temperature 
of 430° Fahrenheit. If slacked at this color, the 
piece will be very hard, having a temper admira¬ 
bly suited to drills for working in hard metals or 
hard stone. 


ON WORKING IN STEEL. 


93 


2. Pale straw-color—450°. Still very hard, suit¬ 
able for the faces of hammers and anvils. 

3. Full yellow—470°. Shears and scissors. 

4. Brown—490°. Gravers and turning-tools for 
hard metals; also percussion-lock gun tubes. 

5. Brown, with purple spots—510°. Wood-work¬ 
ing tools and most of the steel parts in a gun-lock 
with the exception of the springs; also knives of 
all sorts for cutting wood. 

6. Purple—538°. Butcher-knives and other flesh¬ 
cutting implements. 

7. Dark blue—550°. Tools requiring strong cut¬ 
ting-edges without extreme hardness, as case- 
knives. 

8. Full blue—560°. Chopping-axes. 

9. Grayish blue, verging on black—600°. Springs, 
saws, swords, and the like. 

Various other methods of tempering steel are 
sometimes recommended, as with oils, tallow, lead, 
mercury and divers solutions; but since the matter- 
of-fact gunsmith will find use for none of them, it 
is not deemed proper to encumber this book with 
anything further on the subject of tempering. It 
might be well to state, however, that the hardest 
degree to which steel can be brought is secured by 
heating the piece to a light yellow and instantly 
plunging it into cold mercury. 

To Restore “Burnt” Steel .—Pulverize together 
two parts horn or hoof filings; one part sal ammo¬ 
niac; one part charcoal, and one part common soda. 
When thoroughly ground together, work in tallow 



94 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


enough to make a kind of wax or paste. Bring the 
damaged steel to a bright cherry-red heat, and then 
cover with the paste, leaving it to cool gradually. 
The process may be repeated several times with 
profit if considered necessary. While a piece of 
badly-burnt steel may not be entirely restored by 
this process, it can be much improved. Entire res¬ 
toration is scarcely possible. 

Annealing Steel .—Heat the steel to a cherry-red 
in a charcoal fire, the last thing to be done before 
quitting work at the forge for the day or night; 
then smother the fire down with a thick layer of 
ashes or sawdust, leaving the steel in, just as heated. 
Let so remain until the fire is all out, and the steel 
entirely cool, which will require several hours. Some 
smiths use a piece of gas-pipe in which to heat small 
steel articles for annealing, claiming that it is very 
advantageous. They put the piece into the pipe and 
heat to a cherry-red, looking in occasionally to ascer¬ 
tain when it has attained to that temperature; then 
they cover the fire, pipe and all, and leave it to cool 
as in the other case. 

To Blue Steel .—Polish the article to be blued, then 
place it upon a strip of sheet iron and heat slowly 
over a forge fire or lamp, until the desired blue color 
appears. Let cool, and the color will remain per¬ 
manent. 

To Remove Blue Color from Steel .—Immerse for a 
few minutes in a liquid composed of equal parts mu¬ 
riatic acid and oil of vitriol. Rinse in pure water and 
rub dry with chamois skin or some kind of soft cloth. 


ON WORKING IN STEEL. 


95 


Tempering Knife Blades .—To heat the blades lay 
them in a clear charcoal fire, with the cutting edge 
downwards , and heat very slowly. It is not partic¬ 
ular if the back of the blade, which is uppermost , 
is so very hot or not. Harden in clean luke-warm 
water. If many blades are to be hardened at once, 
lay a number in the fire and remove one at a time 
as they are properly heated. To temper, brighten 
one side on a grindstone or emery wheel so that the 
temper color can be seen, and lay the blades in the 
fire, or on an iron plate heated over the fire, with 
the backs down and the cutting edges uppermost. 
On the plate place wood ashes or fine sand to help 
keep the blades in proper position, and also facilitate 
even drawing. When the proper color is seen on 
the brightened portion of the cutting edge, remove 
and cool in cold water. 

When an extra tough blade is wanted, after it is 
hardened, handle it so that it will not draw any 
lower after removing from the fire, and let it cool 
without putting in water. 

Long blades, when they are being drawn, can be 
straightened, if necessary, by putting them between 
two pins in the anvil or pins fixed in an iron block 
and bending between these until straight, wetting 
the blade with a cloth or sponge saturated with 
water, when the blade is thus straightened. Sur¬ 
prising as it may seem, when hardened steel is being 
drawn, it can be bent to quite an extent, and when 
cooled will remain as bent. File makers straighten 
files in this manner. Sword blades and blades of 


96 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

butchers’ knives undergo the same process of man¬ 
ipulation to be made straight. 

The Lead Bath for Tempering. — Among the 
many secrets of tempering is the employment of 
the lead bath, which is simply a quantity of molten 
lead, contained in a suitable receptacle and kept hot 
over a fire. The uses of this bath are many. For 
instance, if it be desired to heat an article that is 
thick in one portion and thin in another, every one 
who has had experience in such work knows how 
difficult it is to heat the thick portion without over¬ 
heating the thin part. If the lead bath be made 
and kept at a red heat, no matter how thick the 
article may be, provided sufficient time be given, 
both the thick and thin parts will be evenly and 
equally heated, and at the same time get no hotter 
than the bath in which they are immersed. 

For heating thin cutting blades, springs, surgical 
instruments, softening the tangs of tools, etc., this 
bath is unequaled. 

If a portion of an article be required to be left 
soft, as the end of a spring that is to be bent or riv¬ 
eted, the entire may be tempered, and the end to be 
soft may be safely drawn in the lead bath to the 
lowest point that steel can be annealed without dis¬ 
turbing in the least the temper of the part not 
plunged in the bath. Springs, or articles made of 
spring brass, may be treated in the same manner. 
One great advantage in using the lead bath is that 
there is no risk of breakage or shrinkage of the 
metal at the water line, as is often the case when 


ON WORKING IN STEEL. 


97 


tempered by the method of heating and chilling in 
cold water. 

As lead slowly oxidizes at a red heat, two methods 
may be used to prevent it. One is to cover the sur¬ 
face of the lead with a layer of fine charcoal or 
even wood ashes. Another and a better plan, when 
the work will admit of its use, is to float on the top 
of the lead a thin iron plate, fitting the vessel in 
which the lead is contained, but having a hole in 
the centre or on one side, as most convenient, and 
large enough to readily admit the articles to be tem¬ 
pered or softened. 

Test for Good Steel .—Break the bar of steel and 
observe the grain, which in good steel should be fine 
and present a silvery look, with sometimes an ex¬ 
foliated or leaf-like appearance. One of the best 
tests of steel is to make a cold chisel from the bar 
to be tested, and when carefully tempered (be care¬ 
ful not to overheat), try it upon a piece of wrought 
iron bar. The blows given will pretty correctly tell 
its tenacity and capability of holding temper. Be- 
member the temper you gave it, and if it proves 
tough and serviceable, take this temper as a guide 
and temper other tools in like manner. Inferior 
steel is easily broken, and the fracture presents a 
dull, even appearance, which may very appropri¬ 
ately be termed a lifeless look. 

Etching on Steel .—Make an etching solution by 
pulverizing together sulphate of copper, one ounce; 
alum, one-quarter ounce, and common salt, one-half 
teaspoonful. Add one gill strong vinegar and twen- 


98 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


ty drops nitric acid. Stir till thoroughly dissolved. 
Polish up the metal to be etched, and then cover its 
polished surface with a thin coating of bees-wax. 
This can be accomplished with neatness by simply 
heating the metal till the wax flows evenly over its 
surface. Now draw upon the wax, cutting cleanly 
through to the steel the figure you ’wish to etch; 
then cover the figure so prepared with the etching 
solution, and let stand for a short time, depending 
upon.the depth of cut desired. Finally rinse off 
with clear water, and then remove the bees-wax. 
It will be found that the solution has cut into the 
surface of the steel wherever exposed, leaving un¬ 
touched all parts covered by the wax. 

Very good etching can be done by applying, on 
the foregoing plan, nitric acid alone. Etching 
offers a good method of cutting a man’s name on his 
gun or pistol. It works on silver or brass the same. 


CHAPTER XII. 


ON WORKING IN SILVER, COPPER AND BRASS. 

To Forge Silver .—The gunsmith will not have 
much to do with silver in the work of his trade, 
though instances may occur now and then when he 
will be called upon to make or repair mountings or 
ornaments for gun-stocks formed of this metal, and 
also foresights, particularly for the old fashioned 
Kentucky rifle. 

In shaping silver under the hammer no heat will 
be necessary at the hammering—it would do no 
good. The metal is so malleable that it may be 
drawn into almost any shape by simply hammering 
cold. The only trouble liable to come up in this 
kind of work will be the hardening of the metal un¬ 
der the influence of the hammer; but this trouble 
may be pretty effectually removed by heating the 
silver to redness, and then letting it cool gradually 
of itself. Care must be taken not to heat it too 
much above the first appearance of red, as it melts 
quite easily. 

To Polish Silver .—File it down to the shape de¬ 
sired, then dress with a fine file; then work over 
thoroughly with a burnisher. Next buff it off with 
rotten stone, and if a particularly fine finish is de¬ 
sired buff again with rouge. 

Light Plate for Copper or Brass .—Dissolve silver 


100 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


in nitric acid by the assistance of heat; put some 
pieces of copper into the solution and immediately 
the silver will be precipitated. With fifteen or 
twenty grains of the precipitate thus obtained mix 
half a drachm of alum and two drachms each of 
tartar and common salt. Pulverize well together. 
Having thoroughly cleaned the surface to be plated, 
rub it well and hard with the mixture, using a bit of 
chamois skin, until it presents a white appearance. 
Next polish off with soft leather until bright. 

Inferior as this kind of plating would seem, it 
will wear a long time. 

To Clean Silver .—Wash with a little spirits of 
ammonia reduced in strength by twice its bulk of 
pure w r ater, then rub dry and bright with soft 
leather. No kind of polishing powder will be nec¬ 
essary. Some workmen clean silver by first wash¬ 
ing it over with diluted muriatic acid, then immedi¬ 
ately covering the surface with dry prepared chalk, 
then brushing off and rubbing clean with a bit of 
chamois skin. It acts very well, but care must be 
had to get the acid thoroughly cleaned off else it 
will have a tendency to soon tarnish the silver. 

To Work Copper .—This metal is almost as malle¬ 
able as silver, and works very well under the ham¬ 
mer in a cold state. Heat adds nothing to its malle- . 
abilty, though, as in the case of silver, exposure to 
a low degree of heat, followed by gradual cooling, 
softens it somewhat when it has been rendered hard 
and brittle by long hammering. It polishes very 
well, but does not long retain its polish and brillancy 


SILVER, COPPER AND BRASS. 


101 


on account of its disposition to oxidize. Heating 
increases its oxidation; repeatedly heating and cool¬ 
ing would soon wear it entirely away. 

To Work Brass.— This material is a combination 
of copper and zinc, and since zinc is not so malleable 
as copper, it renders the brass less malleable. Nev¬ 
ertheless it forges out pretty well under the ham¬ 
mer, in a cold state, the only condition in which it 
can be so worked. Hammering increases its hard¬ 
ness with great rapidity, soon converting it into a 
very fair spring metal. Brass springs are quite com¬ 
mon—they are all made by repeatedly hammering 
or roiling the metal while cold. As in the case of 
both silver and copper, heating and gradual cooling 
removes this hardness. This is the plan for soften¬ 
ing usually recommended in books on working 
metals, but no advantage will be found to arise 
from the gradual cooling in the case of either silver, 
copper or brass. The custom is to heat the metal to 
the lowest degree that would show redness and then 
plunge it directly into cold water. 

To Cast Brass .—The gunsmith may occasionally 
find it necessary to cast something in brass. This he 
can do without trouble, as brass melts quite easily. 
The mould should have vents at or near the top to 
admit the free escape of air as the molten metal 
runs in to take its place; and it is always best, if 
possible, to arrange so that the metal will enter the 
mould near the bottom and rise up in the filling. 
Without such an arrangement there is danger of 
air bubbles remaining under the metal and spoiling 


102 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


the casting. The metal should be heated only to a 
degree high enough to admit of flowing freely and 
no higher. 

To Brass Iron. — Clean and polish the iron 
thoroughly, being extremely careful not to touch its 
surface with the fingers at the finishing; then plunge 
it into molten brass. Take out immediately; a 
thin coating of brass will be found covering the 
iron, which may be polished or burnished, giving 
the article the appearance of solid brass. 

To Clean Brass .—To half a pint of soft water add 
one tablespoonful of oxalic acid. Wash the article 
with this, then cover with prepared chalk, brush dry 
and polish with chamois skin, as in cleaning silver. 
The solution may be bottled and kept on hand for 
use as wanted. 

To Solder Brass .—The processes in soft soldering 
are the same for all metals, full instructions for 
which may be found in Chapter XXXIV. Hard 
soldering (see also Chapter XXXIV) is something 
different, and in the case of brass it is somewhat 
different on account of the low degree of tempera¬ 
ture at which the metal melts. The solder most 
commonly used is composed of two parts of com¬ 
mon brass and one part of zinc, melted together. 
Reduce your solder to fine bits by cutting or filing, 
and then mix with sal-ammoniac and borax, the 
two latter having been pulverized together in equal 
parts and moistened with water to form a kind of 
paste. Carefully clean the pieces to be joined, lay 
them together, place the soldering compound along 


SILVER, COPPER AND BRASS. 


103 


the upper edge of the joint, which must be held 
vertically, and then heat gradually over a charcoal 
fire until the solder is seen to run down between the 
pieces. The instant the solder is seen to run re¬ 
move the work from the fire, tap the work gently 
with a small hammer to jar the solder into all inter¬ 
stices, and, if the work be so that it can be done, 
scrape off the superfluous solder and burnt borax 
with an old file. 




/ 


CHAPTER XIII. 


ON WORKING IN WOOD. 

The Woods Most in Use .—Various woods are now 
employed for making gun stocks, but among them 
all, the most popular, perhaps, is black walnut. It 
is deservedly so from the fact that it is light, works 
easily, takes a superior polish, has a rich dark color, 
naturally, and when finished up does not incline to 
“check.” So popular is it, indeed, that most of the 
other woods worked into gun stocks are stained and 
finished up to imitate walnut. 

In some portions of the country hard or sugar 
maple (“sugar tree”) is worked quite extensively 
by the local gunsmiths. It makes a very nice stock, 
finishing to good advantage, especially “curled 
maple,” which is really beautiful. Soft maple is 
also extensively used, stained and finished to imitate 
either hard maple or walnut. 

The common dogwood makes an excellent gun- 
stock, but it works badly on account of the small¬ 
ness of the tree rendering it difficult for one to get 
the pieces sawed out in proper shape at the begin¬ 
ning. Holly also makes a good stock, but presents 
the same objection as the dogwood. Cherry has 
few superiors, but it is now becoming a very scarce 
wood. Sweet gum is getting to be quite extensively 
used for cheap guns, stained to imitate either wah 


ON WORKING IN WOOD. 


105 


nut or cherry. It has fine grain, and works very 
well, the chief objection to it being that it is won¬ 
derfully inclined to warp. 

Wood for Gun Stocks .—The wood for a gun stock 
should combine strength and lightness, and at the 
same time it is desirable that it be easy to cut. The 
fibres of the wood should be close and possess 
great cohesion and should be little liable to split. 

In this country black-walnut is generally selected 
for shot guns, and either black-walnut or hard 
maple for rifles. The grain of the wood should be 
straight at the small of the stock, which is the 
weakest portion of the work. Between this and the 
end of the breech it little matters how the grain 
runs. If there be curls, waves or a hard knot, let 
it come about midway between the small and the 
end of the butt. As the wood at this place is simply 
“ rounded ” it is easy to work it into shape, as the 
shape given to it is such that any deviation of the 
fibres or grain from a straight line can be shown to 
the best advantage, also at this place there is less 
demand for strength of wood than at any other 
part of the gun stock. Around the small it is very 
necessary that the grain be straight and run in the 
direction of the shape given and also continue 
straight until past the place where the locks are set 
in. A little distance in front of the barrel breech 
it matters but little how the grain runs, but if the 
fibres of the wood where the barrel is let in run 
toward the breech it will be found to be easier to work 
out for the reception of the barrel. For then as 


106 


THE GUNSMITH'S MANUAL. 


the tools are worked toward the breech they are 
cutting ivith the fibres or grain and not against it. 
But as the majority of guns are now half-stocked 
the distance to cut in order to let in a barrel is so 
small that but little attention need be paid to the 
grain at this spot. 

The best and most serviceable stocks are those 
made from parts of the tree where large branches 
join the trunk. In these parts, too, will be found 
the curled and irregular grain that is so much ad¬ 
mired when the stock is so made that these irregu¬ 
larities come in the stock a little in front of the butt 
plate. When large trees are cut down, it will be 
observed very often that there are portions of the 
stump that have a kind of convex form, and ex¬ 
tending downward terminate in large roots. If 
these be dug out or separated from the stump by 
splitting them, they are almost always of a proper 
shape, to have the grain run nearly straight in the 
curves as given to the stock. In black-walnut and 
hard maple these root portions are very firm of 
fibre, quite hard and have a splendid grain that fin¬ 
ishes up beautifully. Portions of some root pieces 
have a mottled appearance and are of a different 
color from the wood as cut from the trunk of the 
tree ; this is especially the case with black-walnut. 
As these stumps can be had by the trouble of re¬ 
moving them, the gunsmith can very cheaply secure 
pieces of wood that are very valuable. Oftentimes 
black-walnut stumps are found floating in the water, 
and on the banks of western rivers, that are per- 


ON WORKING IN WOOD. 


107 

fectly sound and so darkened by water soaking that 
they make beautiful stocks. 

The dryness and fitness of the wood may be as¬ 
certained by the easy crumbling of the shavings and 
by the dryness of the sawdust. It is necessary that 
the wood be well seasoned, for if any moisture or sap 
remains in it, the barrel and portions of the lock 
that come in contact with the wood, will in a short 
time be covered with rust. 


CHAPTER XIV. 


ON GUN STOCKS. 

Form of Gun Stocks .—When a customer orders 
a stock to be made, or has a gun to be re-stocked, 
the gunsmith will observe the length of his cus¬ 
tomer’s arms, length of neck, his height and general 
carriage. From these he can gather some data as 
to the length and form of stock to be made. Give 
him a gun, and observe his mode of raising it and 
taking aim, and the manner of his holding his head 
while aiming, and deductions may be drawn as to 
what the customer requires. 

A tall, long-limbed and long-armed man requires 
a longer stock than a shorter person, and a straight 
stock will better answer for a short-necked, high¬ 
shouldered man than for a long-necked, low-shoul¬ 
dered person. A straight stock is much more suit¬ 
able for a short-necked, high-shouldered person than 
a bent one, and for this reason, that, in fast shooting 
the point of sight at the end of the gun would come 
up to the range of the eye before the butt could be 
placed full against the shoulder, and one conse¬ 
quence would be, when fired, a severe recoil of the 
gun at every discharge. A stock rather long is 
much better than one too short, and one rather 
crooked to one that is too straight. If a gun be not 
held on a perfect level, but the muzzle higher than 


ON GUN STOCKS. 


109 


the breech, the load will be carried over the object 
aimed at, supposing that object to be on a level with 
the eye. Let a customer take a gun, such as would 
be thought to be best suited to his “build,” and re¬ 
quest him to close both eyes and raise the gun to a 
level, as if to shoot thus. Have him hold the gun 
immovable thus, and then request him to open his 
eyes, and it is evident if he requires a stock to be 
made different from the one he has in hand. If the 
face comes naturally to the breech and the eye has a 
“ fine sight ’’ along the barrel, it is just the pattern 
of gun stock for him to have. If it be too straight 
he will shoot over, if too much crooked he will 
shoot under. In the first instance the muzzle is 
brought too high by an effort of the face to find a 
position at the breech, and in the other case it so 
readily finds a place that no further effort is made, 
except by practice, to raise the muzzle to the proper 
level. 

A tall, slim person requires a gun with a long, 
crooked stock, and rather heavier and made fuller 
behind the small, as this will fill up his want of a 
full face, and will better permit his eye a command 
of sight along the middle of the barrels, supposing 
the gun to be a double one. For a short individual 
a short, straight stock is required, and it should 
be made thinner behind the small, so as to easily 
permit access to the line of sight. If a person be in 
the habit of firing too low and behind a bird, if the 
stock be made a little straighter it will prove a rem¬ 
edy for the fault. 


110 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


That part of the stock where the cheek comes to 
rest should be full, as it gives more support to the 
line of fire. The heel of the stock should be in a 
straight line with the upper rib between the barrels. 
If a single gun, on a line with the barrel. The 
length of stock from the centre of front trigger to 
centre of butt-plate, from thirteen to fifteen and a 
half inches; a short person requiring the less meas¬ 
urement, while a very tall one might require the 
longest one. 

The cut, Fig. 23, gives a better idea of what the 
stock should be. Place a rule or straight-edge upon 



the rib of the gun, and long enough to reach from 
the sight of the gun over and beyond the butt. Be 
particular that the straight-edge lies along the rib 
and touches it at both muzzle and breech. The 
measurement from a to b on the butt is what is 
termed the “drop,” and this may be from two and 
a half to four inches, according to the requirements 
of the shooter. The cheek of the sportsman coined 
between c and d , and almost always touches the 
stock at this place when bending his head forward 
over the stock of his gun to take the line of sight. 
This part of the gun should command particular 
attention, 











ON GUN STOCKS. 


Ill 


Another point of considerable importance to ob¬ 
serve is, that a due regard be paid to the proper fall 
of equipoise or centre of gravity of the gun when 
stocked and ready for use. This centre of gravity 
should fall at a point about two feet two inches, or 
perhaps an inch more, from the heel of the butt. 
In this case the arm is easier to handle and easier to 
carry. If the breech be too light, lead may be in¬ 
serted to advantage in the butt, the butt-plate being 
removed for that purpose. 

Dimensions for Single Gun .—The following may 
be considered very good dimensions for a single gun 
stock : Whole length of stock, from butt to cap, 
t wo feet two inches; length or depth of butt, five 
and a half inches, with a trifling concave surface; 
width of stock at butt, two inches ; from point of 
centre of the lock-tumbler to cap, eleven inches ; 
width of stock before the guard, one inch and three- 
eighths, and made nearly square. 

Dimensions for Double Gun .—For a double gun : 
Length of stock, from butt to cap, two feet one 
inch ; length or depth of butt, five and a half 
inches, w T ith a slightly concave surface two inches 
in width ; from centre of lock-tumbler to cap, ten 
and one-quarter inches ; width of stock before guard, 
one inch and three-quarters, and made nearly 
square. 

Laying out Gun Stocks .—Several patterns each, of 
double and single, and rifle stocks are necessary. 
These patterns may be made of thin wood or thick 
straw-board. These patterns ought to be a little 


112 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


larger than the finished stock, and are intended 
only for a proximate measurement of the stock 
when to be sawed from the rough wood. Select 
the wood, lay the pattern upon it, mark around with 
a pencil or crayon, and then saw out by the lines 
made. 

With a plane, smooth one side of the wood so as 
to show the grain and the direction in which it runs. 
This must govern the position of laying the pattern. 
The weakest portion of the stock is the small, and 
there it is almost a necessity that the grain should 
not run across the line of the stock, but with it. If 
a very little divergence be made, it may not matter, 
provided the wood be of a hard and close grain. If 
the grain run across, or at an angle at this weakest 
spot, a slight blow or accidental fall is liable to cause 
a breakage which can best be repaired with a new 
stock. If the wood be in some places mottled, with 
curled or twisted grain, or has a knot that is hard 
and sound, let this spot come in the center of the 
butt, for by its width and thickness no accident is 
liable to break it, and the rounded form gives oppor¬ 
tunity to show off the irregular grain to good ad¬ 
vantage. Let the wood where the butt plate is at¬ 
tached be of straight and regular grain if possible. 
The grain where the locks are let in, and also where 
the barrel is let in, should be straight and run in the 
same line as the barrel. 

The planks or rough pieces for double gun stocks 
should be about two and a quarter inches thick be¬ 
fore they are reduced. Two inches for a single gun, 


ON GUN STOCKS. 


113 


and about one and three-quarter inches, or a little 
thicker, for rifles, depending on their weight and 
the taste of the customer. 

It is best to have a number of stocks roughed out. 
Maple for rifles and black-walnut for single and 
double guns. Let them lay in a dry place to thor¬ 
oughly season, and if they remain in this manner 
for several years, they are all the belter for it. It 
is claimed that it takes seven years for a plank to 
season, and even then when sawed into stocks, they 
will be observed to shrink and change form, and 
often small cracks will appear. 

Unhesitatingly reject all pieces that are unsound, 
or have any appearance of being brash, or with any 
signs of decay. Often in laying the patterns upon 
the wood these places can be readily avoided, and 
thrown away as the plank is cut up. Draw a straight 
line where the barrels will come, and cut to this line, 
but be sure to leave plenty of wood where the breech 
of the barrels rest, and where the break-off is set in. 
When the stock is roughed out, this spot will have 
the appearance of a rise or swell with a sharp curve 
in front, down on to the line which is just below the 
centre of the line of the barrels for double guns, and 
on the centre for single guns and rifles. Except in 
the case of some who may fancy the old Kentucky 
rifle, all guns will probably be made with half-stock. 
It would be hardly advisable to keep only a very 
limited stock of full length stocks on hand. If 
such are to be roughed out, pay particular atten¬ 
tion to have the grain of the wood as straight as 


114 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

possible the full length where the barrel is to be 
let in. 

How to Stock a Gun .—Stocking a gun is the most 
difficult portion of the gunsmith’s trade. The 
change from iron work to the manipulation of wood 
is so great that many workmen refuse to work at 
both branches of the business. Then again, if the 
stock be not well done and the parts well fitted, they 
show a greater per cent, worse than perhaps they 
really are. The letting in of the barrel and locks 
should be done with care and nicety, and no appar¬ 
ent openings between wood and metal should be 
visible. The parts should be closely adherent to the 
wood, yet easy to be removed and returned to place. 
Where straight lines of the wood work are required, 
as along the line of the barrels and other places, let 
the lines be straight. Where the convex lines of the 
breech and butt occur, let the lines be graceful and 
of even proportions. 

The First Operation .—After receiving the rough 
formed stock, as roughed out for seasoning, the first 
thing to do is to plane it to a thickness, and there 
are tw r o places to measure for this thickness. One 
is the thickness of the butt, which in double guns 
may be two inches, and the same width in heavy 
single guns, and a trifle lighter if it be a light gun. 
The other place for measurement is across where 
the locks are to be let in. Observe how the locks 
are to rest, against the break-off or against the bar¬ 
rels. Note this measurement and add the thickness 
of the locks. This may be an inch and three-eighths 


ON GUN STOCKS. 


115 


to an inch and a half for single guns, and an inch 
and five-eighths to an inch and three-quarters for 
double guns, yet as the formation of the breech and 
style of locks differ so will these measurements vary 
from the measurements given. When these meas¬ 
urements are made, and the stock reduced to the 
proper width, draw a line both on the upper side of 
the stock as well as the under side, exactly between 
the breech and lock measurements, and continue 
this line from the end of the butt to the end of the 
fore-stock. Cut down to a straight line the stock 
where the barrels are to be let in, and fit in the 
break off. Take pains to fit it well, for on the fitting 
of this in a great measure depends the life of the 
stock. If the barrels be loose fitted, each recoil of 
the gun on firing tends to loosen the break-off from 
the barrels, and the joint soon becomes open and 
shackling. 

When this part is snugly fitted and the strap let 
in, put in temporary screws to hold it for a season. 
Cut out the groove for the barrels, keeping in mind 
all the time that the central line between the barrels 
must be on the line as drawn on the centre of the 
stock. If a single gun, this line must pass directly 
through the axial line of the bore. 

Letting in Barrels. -—When it is thought that 
wood enough has been removed to admit the bar¬ 
rels, rub oil on them on the under side where they 
come in contact with the stock, put the hooks in the 
break-off, and with the hand press the barrels to 
place—the oil will show on the wood, on removing 


116 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


them, and then, with gouge or float, remove this 
portion and again put the barrels in place, observ¬ 
ing the oil marks, and reduce the wood again until 
the barrels lie in their beds evenly and solidly, and 
the joining at the break-off is in place, square and 
true. The heel of the stock should come in a 
straight line with the middle of the rib, and will 
come so, if observance of the lines first drawn has 
been made. 

Measure for the Stock .—Now measure for the 
drop of the stock, which is illustrated in Fig. 23. 
From the line a to h , which is a continuation of a 
line along the top of the barrels, may be, for instance 
about three inches. Cut the stock away on top to 
this measurement, and fit on the butt plate. To get 
the length of the breech, measure from the spot 
where the end of the front trigger will come, and 
this measurement extended, straight back to the 
centre of the butt, gives the length. For a person 
with long arms about fifteen and a half inches is 
enough; about fourteen and a half for a person with 
ordinary length of arm, and thirteen and a half or 
thirteen and three-quarters for a person with short 
arms. 

The Butt .—The depth of the butt for a double or 
single may be about five and a half inches, but for a 
light single gun a little less but not very much. 

Letting in the Locks .—The locks should now be 
let in their proper places, and, while so doing, have 
great care that no more wood be removed than is 
necessary. See that the lock-plates have all the 


ON GUN STOCKS. 


117 


support possible where they fit into the wood. Cut 
out enough for full play of the mainspring and sear- 
berg spring carefully, do not remove wood where 
the edges of the lock-plate come, so as to leave open 
spaces for admission of water, dust or moisture. In 
letting in the locks the portions of wood to be re¬ 
moved can be ascertained by touching the promi¬ 
nent parts of the lock with oil, or holding the lock 
over a smoky lamp, so as to have soot adhere, then 
observe where it touches, on pressing the locks into 
place. Observe if the cup of the hammer comes 
squarely on the nipple, and put in the side bolts as 
they are to remain. 

Letting in the Trigger-Plate .—Let the trigger-plate 
into the stock so that the arm of the sear bears 
wholly on the thick of the trigger, and not on the 
outer end. For this reason, if it engages the outer 
end, on being pulled to disengage the nose of the 
sear from the tumbler notch, it produces a sort of 
“ twisted leverage ” which does not work quick and 
strong enough to properly disengage the sear with¬ 
out some effort on account of this. If the arm of the 
sear bears only in part on the thick of the trigger, 
it works hard and stiff, and the parts soon wear each 
other. Observe if the arm of the sear be not too 
short, for it might happen that the trigger will slip 
off at the end upon a quick pressure being applied, 
leaving the parts disengaged and the hammer stand¬ 
ing at full-cock. 

Letting in the Trigger.— The trigger should be so 
disposed in the plate that a distance of an inch and 


118 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

about three-eighths exist between the right trigger 
and the front of the trigger guard, and an inch and 
three-sixteenths or more between the two triggers, 
and a sufficient space between the rear of the left 
trigger and the guard behind it to admit of free 
movement of the trigger. Observe if the triggers 
do not come too close to each other; if they do they 
may so rub upon each other that the action of one 
will compel the other to follow its motion, and the 
result will be a descent of both hammers at the 
same time. 

Observe if the curves of the two triggers are at 
sufficient distance from each other so that the left 
barrel can be fired without the projecting and inner 
edge of the right or first trigger hurting the finger 
that pulls the trigger. 

Secure Fastenings .—For a secure fastening of the 
break-off, and, at the same time, to bind the stock 
together and prevent splitting through where the 
locks are let in, insert a screw through the tang of 
the strap and have it received in the front end of the 
trigger-plate. Have a good thread where the screw 
goes into the trigger-plate, and have the plate firmly 
drawn to its bed in the wood. Fit the guard, ob¬ 
serving the measurements for space in front and rear 
of the triggers. 

Fitting Bolt-Loops .—To ascertain the position of 
the loop where the bolt or wire goes through to hold 
the barrel in place, insert a fine steel needle through 
the wood until it strikes the hole, and then enlarge 
around it to accommodate the hole and the loop. 


ON GUN STOCKS. 


119 


If for a bolt, a slender tool made like a saw will en¬ 
large the hole in the wood, letting the tool follow in 
the loop and act as a guide to shape the hole. The 
finishing of the hole in the wood may be done with 
a bolt float, shown in Fig. 24. 

Hints for Finishing .—In finishing up the stock 
have the part where the cheek rests in firing made 
pretty full. Make it rather long than short, and 



mm 




JLL 



Figure 24 . 


have it more straight than curved. The length of a 
stock, be it double or single gun, from butt to front 
end of stock, may be from about two feet to two 
feet two inches; from the centre of the ham¬ 
mer-screw to front end of the stock, from ten to 
eleven inches. 

Fitting the Break-off .— On good fitting of the 
break of depends, in a great measure, the lasting 
quality of the gun. If this be not properly fitted to 
the hooks of the breech, to the breech itself, and 
into the stock, the gun is soon “kicked” to pieces 
by its own recoil. The extension of the break-off 
that is let into the stock toward the breech is called 
tang, strap or tail, and these are of two lengths, 
called the long and the short. These lengths usually 
correspond with the lengths of breech pins. The 
smallest diameter of break-off is one inch, and in¬ 
creases by eighths of an inch up to two inches. 




























120 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


To let in Escutcheons , etc .—Do not fit in an es¬ 
cutcheon until that part of the stock is finished or 
made to form. Then, after the bolt is fitted to its 
place through the loop, remove the bolt, make the 
hole in the escutcheon so that the bolt slides easily 
through it. Hold the escutcheons on the stock in 
the place they are to occupy and put the bolt 
through them. Mark around them with the sharp 
point of a knife and remove them. Cut out the 
wood of a depth to correspond with the thickness of 
the escutcheon with a bottoming tool. Put them in 
place and fasten them. They can now be finished 
down with a file even wif the stock. 

It is well to have escutcheons with the ends long 
enough to admit of small screws being inserted to 
hold them. They are more permanent than those 
that are held by a wire-like extension that goes 
through the wood and is clinched a little. By using 
the screws the workman can make his own es¬ 
cutcheons. Sheet iron, brass or German silver may 
be used. The slot can be cut with a punch or drift, 
and finished with a thin, flat file. The handles of 
old German silver spoons make very good escutch¬ 
eons. If too thick, hammer out thinner. Heat 
them to soften so that they will not crack in ham¬ 
mering. 

In putting escutcheons to place where they are to 
remain, heat them quite warm, smear with gum 
shellac and, while soft and melted, press into place. 
If done expertly, a neat job will be the result. 

How to Cast Tips on Fore-encl of Stock .—Tips 


ON GUN STOCKS. 


121 


are cast on the fore-end of half-stocked single guns 
and rifles for the purpose of preventing the stock 
from splitting, and, at the same time, give it a fin¬ 
ished appearance. After the stock is finished to 
shape and the rod fitted, put the barrel in place, and 
put a short piece of wood in the rod groove, the 
same as the rod would he if put there. Let the 
piece project from the wood four or five inches. It 
serves a double purpose, preventing the metal from 
flowing into the hole and making a hole to receive 
the rod. Now, wind thick, smooth paper—manilla 
paper is best—around the stock and barrel where 
the tip is to be cast, conf 4ng it with a cord, taking 
care to have all tight so that no portion of the metal 
will escape. See that the space between the paper and 
wood is left large enough, so that the metal can be 
dressed down a little; little notches may be cut in 
the wood to have it hold the better. 

Fix the gun so as to stand upright, so that the 
metal will pour evenly. Heat the metal pretty hot 
and pour carefully into the paper, and pour in more 
than is wanted for the length of the tip, as the dross 
will float to the top and can be removed when cold 
by sawing off a little of the tip. File up and finish 
to suit the taste. 

The best metal for tips is pure block tin, as it re¬ 
mains white. If it be wished to make it a little 
harder, add a very little antimony, but this is hardly 
necessary. Old type, when melted, make a very 
good material for tips when pure tin cannot be ob¬ 
tained. Tin has the advantage of always retaining 


122 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


a clear white color, which when alloyed with lead, 
it will not do. 

Chequering .—To lay out the work preparatory for 
chequering, take a piece of card—a firm pasteboard, 
cut it to the shape of the spot to be chequered; mark 
around it with a lead pencil. If it be the small of a 
gun stock, place it at the other side from that first 
marked and mark that place. See that both places 
are marked alike. Then place the paper on, so that 
when it is used as a guide the tool will cut a groove 
where the line was drawn. Cut outlines in the 
same manner, the paper serving as a guide for the 
tool. After one groove is cut, this is a guide for 
grooving the space inclosed by the outlines. 

To finish the cuts or grooves, fold a short piece of 
fine sand-paper and run the folded edge along the 
cuts. Be careful not to cut down too much with the 
sand-paper. A fine-cut, three-square file can be 
used to finish up the grooves made by the chequer¬ 
ing-tool. Be careful to select a file that has very 
sharp corners. If one of the flat surfaces of the file 
be ground smooth, the teeth on the corners will be 
found to be very sharp, and will answer first-rate 
for finishing. The same may be used for finishing 
the shading or outside lines around the chequered 
surface. 

Coloring Gun Stocks .—Gun stocks are colored 
with linseed oil in which alkanet root has been 
placed. The oil will then be of a bright red color. 
The oil may be applied cold or warm, as most con¬ 
venient. After the application let the stock stand 


ON GUN STOCKS. 


123 


for a day or two until the wood has absorbed all the 
oil possible. Four ounces of the alkanet root to half 
a pint of the oil are sufficient. Unboiled or raw lin¬ 
seed oil is generally used. It may take five or six 
days to color, after the root is put in. It may be 
put on the work four or five times, with a bit of 
sponge or a rag. 

To Stain a Maple Stock. —Mix an ounce and a 
half of nitric acid with about equal quantity of iron 
turnings or filings. Wait until all the gas evolved 
has evaporated, and then dip a rag in the liquid and 
wash the portions of the stock to be colored. When 
this is dry, wet with the oil and alkanet root. 

Another Method. —A stock may be oiled and then 
passed over a brisk flame, as that made from dry 
shavings, until the oil is scorched off, and then 
lightly rubbed down with fine sand-paper and 
then finished in the usual way. 

To Color a Maple Stock Brown. —Dissolve a few 
grains of sulphate of manganese in water ; wet the 
stock and hold over the flame of an alcohol lamp so 
as to scorch it. By heating some parts more than 
others the color can be variegated. Oil with raw 
linseed oil, and polish with a piece of hard wood. 
The oil and polishing will develop the color, which 
may be dull at first. 

To Color a Reddish Brown.— Brush the wood 
with dilute nitric acid, and when dry apply the fol¬ 
lowing with a brush: Dragon’s-blood, four ounces ; 
common soda, one ounce; alcohol, three pints. Re¬ 
peat if not dark enough. 


124 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

To Color a Black .—Boil half a pound of logwood 
chips in two quarts of water; add one ounce of 
pearlash, and wash the work with it while hot. 
Then, when dry, go over the work with the follow¬ 
ing: Boil half a pound of logwood in two quarts of 
water ; add half an ounce of verdigris and green 
copperas, in which has been put half a pound of 
rusty steel or iron filings. 

Roseivood Stain .—Boil half a pint of logwood in 
three pints of water till the mixture is very dark 
red; add salts of tartar, one-half ounce, while boil¬ 
ing hot; and while still in this condition apply to 
the wood, repeating the application two or three 
times, as the previous application becomes dry. 
Bub over with a soft cloth when the last application 
has dried, and set away for a day or so. In the 
meantime boil one pound of logwood in four quarts 
of water until of a deep color, then add one pint 
of vinegar, heat hot and apply to the wood already 
stained, with a suitable brush, streaking on in imi¬ 
tation of rosewood. When thoroughly dry rub off 
all loose matter with a soft cloth, and varnish. 

Black-Walnut Stain .—Put together gum asphal- 
tum, one pound, and turpentine, half a gallon. Dis¬ 
solve by gentle heating, taking care not to heat so as 
to ignite the turpentine. Bub over the wood, and 
when dry, if not sufficiently dark, repeat the opera¬ 
tion. Having the shade to suit, polish down by 
rubbing hard with a woollen cloth, followed with a 
bit of soft wood, then varnish. A stain, not quite 
so good, but cheaper and more simple, is burnt um- 


ON GUN STOCKS. 


125 


ber, such as can be bought at any paint shop, ground 
in oil, thinned with a little turpentine. It should 
be put on very thick, and then rubbed off to the 
proper shade with a woollen cloth. Dry and var¬ 
nish . 

Mahogany Stain .—It is not often that guns are 
stocked in mahogany, but the gunsmith ought to 
know how to stain in imitation of that wood, should 
occasion happen to call for it. Put together, water, 
one half gallon ; madder, four ounces ; and fustic, 
two ounces. Boil. Lay on the wood, with a brush 
while hot; and while yet damp, hut not wet, rub off 
with a woollen cloth; then, when dry, go over with 
a second coat in streaks to imitate the grain of ma¬ 
hogany. Rub off all loose matter when dry, and 
varnish. 

Cherry Stain .—Put two ounces of annatto in 
half a gallon of rain water. Boil until the annatto 
is dissolved, then add half an ounce of potash This 
preparation is intended for wood of a light color. It 
may be bottled and kept for use when wanted. 
Nothing to do in the application but rub over the 
wood, let dry, and then varnish. 

Oil Finish for Gun Stocks .—Mix common Spanish 
whiting with some kind of coloring material until 
it is exactly the shade of the wood you desire to 
finish. For instance, if it is walnut to be finished, 
the coloring agent will be dry burnt umber. Hav¬ 
ing the whiting ready, give the wood, which has 
been well finished up with fine sand paper, a coat of 
raw linseed oil, then sprinkle the whiting mixture 


126 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


over it, and with a woollen cloth rub thoroughly 
and hard. This forces the colored whiting into all 
the pores of the wood. Lastly, rub down heavily 
with a piece of soft white pine, and then set away 
to dry. It may be left in this condition, or it may 
be varnished, when dry, if thought desirable. 

Varnishing and Finishing .—After the stock is 
shaped and sand-papered so that the surface is smooth 
and free from any marks of the rasp and scratches 
of sand-paper wipe it over with a cloth a little moist 
with water, this will raise the grain of the wood a 
little, when dry, sand-paper it off smooth. With a 
small brush, such as is used by painters and called a 
sash brush, apply the varnish. Shellac varnish is 
the kind generally used by gunsmiths. It will dry 
in a little time, but ought to stand about twenty- 
four hours before being rubbed down. This is done 
with fine sand-paper the same as finishing the stock, 
the object being to fill the pores of the wood as much 
as possible. It may require two, three or even four 
coats of the varnish to do this, each one after it is 
thoroughly dried, being sand-papered down to the 
wood. 

The last coat of varnish is laid on with a flat var¬ 
nish brush made of soft fine hair; see that the var¬ 
nish be free from dirt or specks and not too thick; 
put it on evenly and quickly. See that it does not 
run down so as to show in streaks. When this coat 
is thoroughly dry, rub it down smooth with pow¬ 
dered pumice stone applied with a rag wet with 
water. Take care not to cut through the varnish 


ON GUN STOCKS. 


127 


so as to show the wood underneath, as the pumice 
powder cuts very fast. When the surface is made 
smooth and even, wash off all traces of the pumice 
powder with a wet cloth, and wipe it dry. Now go 
over it with powdered rotten-stone applied with a 
rag moistened with oil. Rub until the varnished 
surface shows a finish or a glassy appearance, then 
wipe off all trace of rotten stone and oil. If a little 
flour be dusted over, it will better remove the oil 
traces that may remain; with the hand rub the sur- 



Figure 25. 


face until it presents a gloss. The hand must be 
soft to do this and must be free from dirt. 

The Varnish for Gun Stocks— Some workmen use 
copal varnish because it is cheap and convenient, but 
it is objectionable on account of its softness and its 
disposition to crack when exposed to the sun. There 
are a number of special varnishes recommended to 





















































128 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


the gunsmith, but for general use perhaps good coach 
varnish, will answer in many cases. It should be 
made quite thin with turpentine, and be put on 
lightly. 

Varnish Can .—A very good form of varnish can 
is shown in Fig. 25. The essentials are to have a 
cover with a stem to receive the handles of the 
brushes, and a bridge crossing the can a little di¬ 
stance down from the top. The cover never sticks, 
no varnish collects around the sides, and it is always 
clean and tidy. The can is round and made of tin. 
The cover shuts over the outside at the top. In 
wiping the brush across the bridge, be careful not to 
get any upon the outside of the can where the cover 
comes in contact. The size of can maybe made ac¬ 
cording to the needs of the mechanic, but the stem 
of the cover must be wide enough as well as long 
enough to receive the brush handles. 


CHAPTER XY. 


ON GUN BARRELS. 

Long and Short Barrels .—A long barrel may be 
preferable for several reasons: 1st. A longer distance 
between the sights is given and the back sight can 
be put farther from the eye, so that finer sighting is 
possible; 2d. A long barrel is steadier in off-hand 
shooting; 3d. It permits a slower burning powder to 
be used, so that the charge starts more slowly and 
yet allows the full strength of the powder to be 
used before it leaves the barrel, getting a high in¬ 
itial velocity with but little recoil. 

The short barrel has an advantage over the long 
one inasmuch as it can be handled with greater 
quickness and the sight can be brought to bear more 
readily, especially if the game be moving. If the 
barrel be long enough to give the charge the full 
benefit of the propelling power of the powder it may 
be deemed all sufficient. Yet, as to this, tastes and 
experience may so differ as to raise many conflicting 
opinions. 

Except in some localities, as in case of districts 
where the old-fashioned Kentucky rifle is used, long 
barrels have been pretty much abandoned. A few 
years ago it was not uncommon to find barrels three 
and even four feet long, now the lengths will range 
from twenty-six to thirty-two inches. The length 


130 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


of the old Government musket barrel was originally 
forty inches, but has been lessened about seven 
inches. With the long barrels, a coarse, slower 
burning powder may be used and get a good result, 
but as a general thing cut off the barrel to a con¬ 
venient length for off-hand shooting and moving 
game, use a finer-grained powder, which will be 
quicker burning and just as good results are ob¬ 
tained. 

A gun having barrels over thirty inches in length, 
must needs be made with heavy barrels, and is 
very fatiguing to carry in an all day hunt. A gun 
of this kind, to be safe and well-proportioned, ought 
to weigh nine or ten pounds. 

If fine and quick-burning powder be used in a long 
barrel, the powder is flashed into propelling gas, in¬ 
stantaneously, and beyond a certain length of barrel 
has no farther expansive power, and the result is a 
friction of the charge in escaping, that affects^ the 
shot and consequently the pattern on the target. If 
slow burning powder be employed in a short barrel, 
the whole of the powder cannot be so instantly 
flashed into the propelling gas and some portion of 
it is, as a result, driven unconsumed from the muz¬ 
zle of the gun. 

This fact can be very readily ascertained by 
firing a gun over a bed of clean snow or over a 
spread of white cloth. The unconsumed grains can 
be readily seen on the white ground. If a less 
charge be used in order to consume all the powder, 
less velocity will be given to the projected charge, 


ON GUN BARRELS. 


131 


and weak shooting and a poor, scattering effect on 
the target is the consequence. 

Proof of Barrels .—In consequence of the burst¬ 
ing of guns of an inferior quality, all barrels of Eng¬ 
lish manufacture that are intended for home use, 
and also those designed for exportation, except a 
certain class of arms, are required by law to be 
proved and stamped with the proof-mark and alsu 
what is termed a view mark, which is a stamp or im¬ 
press of the inspection after the barrels were grooved. 
There are two of these proofs called, respectively, 
the London and the Birmingham proof. In 1855, 
an Act was passed by the English Parliament, 
called, c ‘ The Gun Barrel Proof Act,” which enacted 
that all barrels should be proved, first, in the rough, 
and was called the provisional proof, and afterward 
when the barrels were put together, breeched and 
percussioned they w T ere proved again, and this was 
called the definitive proof. 

The arms to be proved are to be divided into classes, 
and the first class comprises single-barrelled military 
arms of smooth bore, and they are not qualified for 
proof until they are fitted and complete to be set up 
or assembled. The second class comprises double- 
barrelled military arms of smooth bore and rifled 
arms of every description, whether of one or more 
barrels, and constructed of plain or twisted iron. 
The fourth class comprises double-barrelled guns for 
firing small shot, and these are subject to the two 
proofs, provisional and definitive. For provisional 
proof, if of plain metal, the barrels are to be bored 


132 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


and ground to size, the vent hole drilled of a size not 
exceeding one-sixteenth of an inch diameter, and a 
vent enlarged to one-tenth disqualified it for proof. 
Notches in the plugs, instead of drilled vents, also 
disqualified them. If the arms are of twisted metal, 
they are to be fine bored and struck up, with proving 
plugs attached, and vents drilled the same as in plain 
barrels. 

For definitive proof the barrels, either plain or 
twisted, must be finished ready for assembling, with 
break-offs and locks fitted. The top and bottom ribs 
have to be rough struck up, pipes, loops and stoppers 
on, and the proper breeches in. The same finished 
condition is required for rifles, but, in addition, the 
barrels must be rifled. The third class comprises 
single-barrelled shot guns, and for proving they are 
to be finished ready for assembling, with breeches in; 
and all barrels, with lumps for percussioning, are to 
be proved through the nipple hole. The fifth class 
comprises revolving and breech-loading arms of 
every description and system, and for revolving arms 
are to have the cylinders with the i evolving action 
attached and complete. The barrels for breech-load¬ 
ers are subject to provisional proof, according to the 
class to which they belong, and to definitive proof, 
when the breech-loading action is attached and com¬ 
plete. 

Barrels made by the United States Government, 
or barrels made for the Government, are subject to 
severe proofs. At the armory at Springfield, the 
barrels submitted for proof are loaded, first, with a 


ON GUN BARRELS. 


133 


500-grain slug and 280 grains of powder, and after¬ 
ward with a slug of the same weight and 250 grains 
of powder. An inspection of the barrel is made 
after each firing, and other inspections after rifling, 
browning, etc. 

Probably the most severe proof of barrels was 
made with the Turkish Peabody-Martini rifles as 
made for the Turkish Government by the Provi¬ 
dence Tool Co. The barrels were first proved for 
strength, and were loaded with 205 grains of powder 
and 715 grains of lead. The regular cartridge for 
service contains only 85 grains of powder and 480 
grains of lead. 

Proof Marks on Gun Barrels .—The marks appli¬ 
cable to the definitive proof are the proof and view 



Figure 26. 


marks of the two English companies, viz.: the London 
and the Birmingham. The provisional proof marks 
consist of, for the London company, the letters 
G. P., interlaced in a cypher surmounted by a lion 
rampant, and for the Birmingham company the 
letters B. P., interlaced in a cypher surmounted by 
a crown. The London marks are shown in Fig. 26, 
and the Birmingham in Fig. 27. 

The method of affixing the proof marks in arms 
of the first and third classes, the definitive proof 
mark and view mark is impressed at the breech end 


134 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


of the barrel, and, if the barrel be designed for a 
patent breech, the view mark is also impressed 
upon the breech. In arms of the second, fourth 
and fifth classes, the proof mark is impressed at the 
breech end of the barrel; the definitive proof and 
view marks are impressed upon the barrel above the 
provisional proof marks. If the barrel be made 



Figure 27. 


with patent breech or with revolving cylinders or 
chambers, the view mark is impressed upon the 
breech or upon the cylinders or chambers, as the 
case may be. 

On all barrels the gauge size of the barrel is struck 
both at the provisional and at the definitive proof. 
These gauge marks are readily recognized, as shown 
in the cuts of the proof marks. 

Barrels stamped with London marks are not al¬ 
ways made in London, for some gunmakers send 
their barrels to London to be proved, because guns 
so marked find a readier sale. Barrels with foreign 
proof marks are exempted, except in case of being 
marked as of English manufacture. Old muzzle- 
loaders, if of English manufacture, intended for 
conversion into other styles of guns, must be sub 
jected to both provisional and definitive proof. 

It is said to be a fact that the proof marks of both 
companies are forged and imitated, both in England 


ON GUN BARRELS. 


135 


and in Germany, and many cheap guns so stamped 
are exported to this country. A cheap gun, with 
the stamps mentioned, may be looked upon with 
suspicion as to its really having been in the official 
proof-houses. 

The proof marks employed by the inspectors in 
the U. S. Government armories, and placed on all 
arms inspected by them, even if made in private 
armories, are V for viewed, and P for proved, to¬ 
gether with the initial letters of the inspector’s 
name, and are found stamped on each barrel. On 
many guns of the old model arms will be found, in 
addition to these marks, the head of an eagle. This 
is the mark that indicated that the barrels were 
made at the armory at Harper’s Ferry, when those 
works were in operation. 

Gauge of Gun Barrels .—Guns are gauged by 
numbers, and these numbers were originally de¬ 
signed to express the number of round balls to the 
pound that would fit the bore of the barrel. Thus a 
ten gauge, a ball of which ten made a pound, would 
lit the bore, etc. Ten and twelve bores are generally 
used by sportsmen, especially those who use breech¬ 
loaders. The twelve, perhaps, is the one most em¬ 
ployed. 

The following list shows the sizes of various 
gauges, the values of the numbers being those 
adopted by the English proof companies. The 
diameters of bores being expressed in decimal thou¬ 
sands of an inch : 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


136 


Number 

Diameter 

of 

of bore 

Gauge. 

in inches. 

1. 

.1.669 

2. 

.1.325 

3. 

.1.157 

4. 


5. 

.976 

6. 

.919 

7. 

.873 

8. 

.835 

9. 

.803 

10. 


11. 

.751 

12. 

.729 

13. 

.710 

14. 

.693 

15. 

.677 

16. 

.662 

17. 

.650 

18. 

.637 


Number 

Diameter 

of 

of bore 

Gauge. 

in inches. 

19. 

.626 

20. 

.615 

21. 

.605 

22. 

.596 

23. 

.587 

24. 

.579 

25. 

.571 

26. 

.563 

27. 

.556 

28. 

.550 

29. 

.543 

30. 

.537 

31. 

.531 

32. 

.526 

33. 

.520 

34. 

.515 

35.. 

.510 

36 .. 

.506 


Muzzle-loaders are of almost every variety of 
gauge, while breech-loaders are made of a limited 
number of sizes. The sizes of this class of guns are 
8, 10, 12, 14, 16 and 20, and are limited to these 
sizes, there being no intermediate sizes. The 10 and 
12 bore are mostly in use, the 12 being in especial 
demand. The calibre or bore of military guns dur¬ 
ing the Revolution was 75 hundredths of an inch, 
and has been reduced by successive stages until now 
it is but 45 hundredths. Down to 1856 the calibre of 
the Springfield musket was 58 hundredths. In 1856 
it was changed to 50 hundredths or one-half inch ; 
and again, in 1873, it was changed to the present 
calibre of 45 hundredths. 








































ON GUN BARRELS. 


137 


Bursting of Barrels. —Bursting of barrels may re¬ 
sult from three causes: Poor quality of iron of which 
the gun is made; an excess of charge : or some 
obstruction in the barrel so as to form an air space 
between the charge and the obstruction. Of poor 
quality barrels, and excess of charge it is needless to 
make mention. The instances of bursting from 
obstructions forming the air space or chamber may 
be mentioned in military guns, firing the charge 
but neglecting to remove the wooden tompion from 
the muzzle of the gun. In sporting guns snow may 
accidentally get into the muzzle or a lump of dirt 
may “somehow” get in so as to fill the bore, and 
when the gun is fired, it will probably, yes, most 
certainly be blown off or blown open where the ob¬ 
struction exists ; the muzzle of a gun being thrust 
into water for a couple of inches or more will have 
like effect. The gas formed by burning the powder 
finds no outlet of escape, and the whole expansive 
force concentrates itself on the weakest portion 
of the barrel, and as a result it is forced apart. In 
good guns the portion toward the muzzle is the 
thinnest, and obstructions are generally at or above 
this place, and it is in this proximity where most 
guns are burst. If within three, four or five inches 
from the muzzle, the portion so destroyed can be 
sawed off, the barrels squared up and it will not al¬ 
ways seriously affect the shooting of the gun. 

In loading a gun be careful that there be no air 
space left between the charge and the ball or shot 
cartridge. In double guns, frequent firing the right 


138 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


barrel, which is the one fired the most, the recoil 
will often cause the ball or shot charge in the left 
barrel to be thrown forward from the powder, and 
when it is fired may either strain or burst the 
barrel. Even if there be a small air space between 
the powder and the ball or shot cartridge it will 
affect the shooting. Every one using double guns 
should accustom himself to the use alternately 
of both barrels, not only for safety but for good 
shooting. A barrel is often said to be a poor 
shooter, when its bad qualities may be wholly as¬ 
cribed to the air space produced above the powder 
by the recoil occasioned by firing the other barrel. 

To Prevent Gun Barrels from Rusting .—Heat the 
barrel to about the temperature of boiling water, no 
higher, and then cover it with a good coating of 
copal varnish. Let it stand at same temperature 
about half an hour, then rub off the varnish while 
still hot with a soft cloth. In this process the 
varnish will enter the pores of the metal sufficiently 
to prevent rusting, but will not show on the surface 
after having been carefully rubbed off as directed. 
A polished surface like that of a finished gun barrel, 
is not much liable to rust, and, indeed, seldom 
begins to rust, the rust starting in the pores of the 
metal and finally working outward. This being the 
case it will readily be seen that sheltering the pores 
by filling them with some kind of substance im¬ 
pervious to moisture cannot do otherwise than act 
as a splendid preventive. 

Protection from Rust .—It sometimes happens that 


ON GUN BARRELS. 


139 


finished up articles in steel or iron must be laid 
away for a considerable length of time, in which case 
it is desirable to employ some means for protecting 
them from the effects of rust. One of the most 
common things is to either grease them or wrap 
them in a greasy rag. This may answer in many 
cases, but it is not nearly so good as to paint them 
over with a mixture of white lead and tallow in 
equal parts, the white lead to be such as has been 
ground in oil for the painter’s use. In this simple 
mixture will be found an effectual protection ; and 
as the tallow will prevent drying, it may be en¬ 
tirely removed at pleasure by rubbing with a little 
kerosene or turpentine. 

Where it is desirable to protect an article that 
must be handled a great deal, as gun-barrels on sale 
in a store, for instance, a very good plan is to heat 
the article sufficiently hot to readily melt beeswax 
brought in contact with it, then rub it thoroughly 
with the wax. Let it stand until the wax is about 
ready to harden, then rub off with a coarse woolen 
cloth. The wax remaining on the metal will not 
show, but there will be enough left to protect it 
from rust. 


CHAPTER XVI. 


ON WORK ON GUN BARRELS. 

Boring Gun Barrels .—The tool used for this pur¬ 
pose consists of a rod a little longer than the barrel 
to be bored, with a cutter head at one end. This 
cutter is about one-half or three-quarters of an inch 
long, and of a diameter a little larger than the bore 
that is to be enlarged. It can be made to be pulled 
through the barrel or to be pushed through when 
cutting. In the armories where many guns of the 
same calibre are made, a portion of the shank, next 
to the cutter, is made of the bore of the barrel, and 
the cutter made of the size the bore is to be en¬ 
larged. The portion that fills the bore acts as a 
guide, so that the cutter is forced to follow after it, 
and the enlarged bore is in the same line as the bor¬ 
ing previously made. The cutting edges of the tool 
are, of course, next to the enlarged portion. As the 
tool is pulled through the barrel, the cuttings are 
left behind it as it advances ; oil is to be supplied 
while cutting, and care must be exercised not to let 
it get clogged with cuttings, as a tearing of the sur¬ 
face of the barrel would be the result. 

When the tool is made to be pushed through 
while cutting, the cutting edges of the tool is on the 
end, and it operates like a reamer. This cutting 


ON WORK ON GUN BARRELS. 


141 


end should be bevelled off so as to follow the bore to 
be enlarged. 

How to make Cutters for Boring .—One way to 
make these cutters is like a many-fluted reamer, 
with five, seven, or more cutters. The odd num¬ 
bers will operate better than even ones. If made 
with too many cutting edges, there will not be 
clearance enough for the chips, and clogging will be 
the result. Then again, the cutters must not be too 
long, or there will be too much friction, and the 
barrel will become very hot in working. Also, 
if the friction is too great, the barrel may be bent 
and sprung in consequence. 

One form of cutter is made like the cherry to 
make an elongated bullet, or like the cherry of a 
Minie bullet. They may also be made in form of an 
egg. A common twist drill welded to a steel rod 
has been used for small bores. A small fluted ream¬ 
er welded to a rod will do where the enlarging is 
quite small. When the tool is to be pulled through 
the cutter may be made like a short twist drill not 
over an inch long, with the cutting edges next the 
rod, and not on the end, as these drills are generally 
made. 

Quick-Boring Gun Barrels .—The way to bore gun 
barrels by hand is this: Make a steel rod with a 
square bit about six or eight inches long on one end, 
and a little less in diagonal diameter than the bore 
of the barrel. The whole rod should be a little 
longer, say a foot or so, than the barrel to be bored. 
Harden and temper the bit end. See that it is true 


142 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

and perfectly straight when ground. The grinding 
should be done by drawing the bit across the face of 
the grindstone, and this will leave the sides of the bit 
a little hollowing, and the edges quite sharp. Pack 
up one side with a thin strip of soft pine until it will 
just enter the breech end of the barrel. By means 
of a strong bit stock, or a handle affixed like an 
auger, turn it around, at the same time forcing it 
toward the muzzle, until it has cut its way through 
the entire length of the barrel. While the cutting 
is going on keep the interior of the barrel plentifully 
supplied with good oil. Now, as the bit will be a 
very little smaller than the bore of the barrel, re¬ 
move it and take off the little strip of wood and 
place between it and the bit a strip of writing paper 
of the length and width of the side of the bit where 
the wood was placed ; then insert the bit again at the 
breech and bore through to the muzzle. Repeat the 
operation again by inserting a second slip of paper, 
and so proceed, using plenty of oil, until the bore or 
calibre of the barrel is sufficiently enlarged. 

Proving the Size during Boring .—A method of 
proving the size of the interior of the barrel and at 
the same time test its being perfectly of the same 
size throughout, is to cast an ingot of lead about an 
inch long in the muzzle, and with a rod forcing it 
through. 

If the work be well done the interior of the barrel 
will present a bright mirror like appearance, and 
will need no further finishing. 

Draw-Bormg .—Draw-boring is done with a rod 


ON WORK ON GUN BARRELS. 


143 


that nearly fills the bore of the gun, and at one end 
of this rod is fitted a tool made like a short piece of 
file, but with the teeth made a great deal coarser 
and larger. This tool may be about an inch long, 
and of a round form on the cutting side, to fit the 
curvature of the bore. This tool is put on the end 
of the rod and worked back and forth, also turning 
it around, so as to present the cutter to all sides of 
the bore in which it is to operate. When it will cut 
no more the cutter is removed from its seat, a slip 
of paper put under it, and it is put in place and the 
operation repeated, and so continued until the bore 
of the gun is sufficiently enlarged. 

Pieces of thin files, broken to length and with the 
ends ground to fit the rod, have been used for draw¬ 
boring, but the best and most effective tool is a bit 
of steel filed up to shape and properly fitted. One 
half of the cutting teeth should point forward and 
the other half backward, so that the cutter will re¬ 
move some of the metal as it works in either direc¬ 
tion, forward or back. If the cutter be an inch 
long, about three or four teeth may point one way, 
and as many the reverse direction. 

In using these tools, keep them well oiled, to pre • 
vent tearing into the metal. 

Choke-Boring .—The method of making a choke- 
bore is similar to quick-boring, except the cutting 
end of the rod does not go quite through the barrel, 
being withdrawn and again inserted with a slip of 
paper placed between the slip of wood and the cutter. 
This is worked not quite so far as the previous bor- 


144 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

ing, being withdrawn and another slip of paper 
placed between the wood and the cutter, and this is 
worked in as far as desired. Care must be taken 
that the choke be gradual and even. A finish can 
be given by folding a piece of fine emery cloth or 
emery paper around a rod, and by turning this in 
the barrel, equalize any unevenness that may occur. 

To enlarge the interior of a barrel, boring it 
choked at both breech and muzzle, push the rod to 
the distance from the breech the enlarging is to 
commence, and then commence boring, leaving off 
where the muzzle choke is to commence. 

If the bore of a barrel is made to taper from muz¬ 
zle to breech, it will scatter. If made to taper too 
much from breech to muzzle, it will compress the 
shot, and by so doing mangle or deface them so that 
they will “ shoot wild,” while at the same time the 
effect on the gun will be to spring the barrel, and, 
if it be thin at the muzzle, as generally made, there 
is danger of enlargement of the bore at this portion 
of it. 

Choke-Dressing a Gun Barrel .—A very slight va¬ 
riation in the size of the bore of a gun-barrel at one 
of its ends often has a marked effection its shooting. 
In case where a shotgun is disposed to “ scatter” 
too much, the remedy lies in enlarging the bore at 
the breech. Choke-boring would be the means re¬ 
sorted to where such an operation was convenient; 
but where not, choke-dressing may be made to an¬ 
swer a very good purpose. This consists in dressing 
out the breech with fine emery paper or cloth, 


ON WORK ON GUN BARRELS. 


145 


wrapped upon a round wooden rod. A little oil 
should be used in finishing the dressing, which need 
not extend above half the length from the breech to 
the muzzle. No particular attention need be given 
as to the slope, as the size of the bore, under this 
operation, is sure to be left largest at the breech. 

Barrels most Suitable for Choke-Boring. —Lam¬ 
inated steel barrels are the most suitable for choke- 
bore guns, being harder and more tenacious than 
Damascus, and, therefore, resist the repeated strain 
of heavy charges better ; they will be found to be 
more durable, and lead less than barrels of softer ma¬ 
terial. Barrels of plain steel, or decarbonized steel, 
so called, should never be used for choke-bore guns, 
as they are unsafe for guns with light muzzles. De¬ 
carbonized steel is most suitable for rifles, where 
great strength of metal is employed. The finest pat¬ 
tern in Damascus is not always desirable, as the 
excessive twisting necessary to make the fine pat¬ 
tern often weakens the fibre of the metal. 

Freeing Gun Barrels .—It is often desired to free 
a barrel at the muzzle, or at both breech and muz¬ 
zle ; and the amount to be removed is so very little 
that it is hazardous to insert the boring bit for fear 
of removing too much. It is easily accomplished in 
this manner: Select a straight wood rod that does 
not quite fill the bore of the gun and saw a slit with 
a fine saw at one end, for about three or four inches, 
and parallel with the length of the rod. Cut strips 
of fine emery paper, or emery cloth, the width of 
which should be the same as the length of the slot, 


146 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


insert one end in the slot and wrap the projecting 
part around the rod, introduce this end into the bar¬ 
rel and work it up and down, if it be desired to fin¬ 
ish the barrel that way, or turn it around by means 
of a bit stock or lathe if the finish is to be thus done. 

Many gunsmiths cast soft lead at the end of a rod, 
using the muzzle of the gun as a size mould, and 
after removing from the barrel, apply oil and fine 
emery, and with this work the inside of the barrel. 

Another Method .—There is another plan. Make a 
rod of soft pine wood that almost fills the bore and 
make a small hole, say about one-eighth of an inch 
diameter at the point where the saw kerf is to termi- 



Figure 28 . 


nate. Cover this portion of the rod with good glue, 
made thin, and then roll it in the emery, the same 
as making an emery wheel or a buff-stick. When 
dry use it in the same way as the other forms of rod. 
When desired to increase the size, which will be 
necessary, a thin wedge can be inserted in the saw- 
kerf and pressed deeper in as the bore increases, or 
near as the rod diminishes its size. By wrapping 
the rod with fine twine where the hole is made 
there will be no danger of splitting the rod w T hen the 
wedge is pushed in. The same form of wedge can 
be used in the rod first described, and at the same 
time the wedge will help keep the emery cloth or 


ON WORK ON GUN BARRELS. 


147 


paper in place. The cut, Fig. 28, shows the rod as 
ready to receive the coating of emery. 

Finishing Muzzles of Gun-Barrels. —To shorten a 
barrel, the general custom is to cut it off with a 
three-square file, by filing a groove around it, or 
else saw it off with a hack-saw ; the latter method 
being preferable, as by sawing completely through 
the barrel the piece is removed with no temptation 
to sever it by bending, as is often the case when cut¬ 
ting off with a file. 

After the piece is removed use a tool like the one 
shown in Fig. 29, to square up the end. This tool 



Figure 29. 


has a cutting part an inch in diameter and about an 
inch long. It is turned smaller back of the cutting 
portion, to make it lighter or better to handle. A 
hole, three-eighths of an inch diameter, is made cen¬ 
trally in the cutting end, and in this hole are inserted 
iron or brass plugs made to fit, and the other end of 
a size to fit the bore of different guns. After the bar¬ 
rel is squared up, bevel the inner edge of the muz¬ 
zle with the tool, Fig. 30, which is nothing more 
than a common “ rose-head,” and is made with sim- 













148 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

ilarly formed cutting teeth. About sixteen teeth 
are sufficient for these tools. The rose head tool has 
the cutting end about an inch diameter and nearly 
the same length, one-half the length being taken up 
by the pointed cutting end. 

Old Method of Straightening Barrels .—The old- 
time method of straightening a gun-barrel was by 
means of a fine thread of black silk or a hair, which 
was passed through the bore of the barrel. This 
line was drawn tight by being stretched from two 



Figure 30. 


ends of a rod of wood or spring steel, the elasticity 
of which kept it taut, and the workman looking 
through turned the barrel round so as to bring the 
thread of hair into coincidence successively with ev¬ 
ery portion of the inner surface. If there existed any 
concavity in any part of this surface, the thread 
would show it by the distance which would there 
appear between the thread itself and its reflection 
in the metal. 

The Neiv Method .—There is another process of 
straightening barrels which was explained by a 
writer in a scientific paper a few years ago, which 
is termed “straightening by the shade,” and by this 
method barrels can be straightened with a greater 
degree of precision than by any other known pro- 



ON WORK ON GUN BARRELS. 


149 


cess. The principle is something like this : If we 
examine a plane mirror for the purpose of ascertain¬ 
ing whether its reflecting surface is a true plane, we 
cause objects to be reflected from it to the eye at 
small angles of incidence. If under these circum¬ 
stances every part of the mirror gives an image true 
to nature, he pronounces it perfect; for the slight¬ 
est deviation from a true plane would cause a mani¬ 
fest distortion of the image. In the process of 
straightening barrels by the shade, crooks in the bore 
are detected upon the same principle. The internal 
surface of the barrel is a mirror, and whatever 
objects are reflected to the eye from any portion of 
it that lies beyond a certain distance, will be reflected 
under very small angles of incidence. As the in¬ 
terior surface of the barrel is not a plane mirror, the 
reflected image will not be true to nature. If the 
bore be straight, the image will have a normal dis¬ 
tortion, which is due to the transverse or cylindrical 
curvature of the mirror; while if there be longi¬ 
tudinal flexures or crooks, there will be an abnormal 
distortion of the image, which will reveal the defect. 

When the eye looks into a gun barrel the interior 
surface appears to be spread out into a plane circular 
disk, as far from the eye as the other end of the barrel. 
Through the centre of this disk is a circular ori¬ 
fice, and surrounding this at equal distances from it 
and from each other, respectively, are several well- 
defined concentric circles, dividing the disk into as 
many bright concentric rings, each of an apparent 
breadth, precisely equal to the diameter of the cen- 


150 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 



tral orifice which is the other end of 
the bore as seen by direct vision. The 
several concentric circles are so many 
images of the end of the bore reflected 
to the eye from different points along 
its length. The first of these circles, 
or that nearest the central orifice, is 
an image formed by light once re¬ 
flected. The second, third, fourth, etc., 
respectively, are images formed by 
light reflected two, three, four, times, 
etc. In order to see how these images 
are formed, and to find their respective 
points of location in the bore, consider 
that a ray of light from each point in 
the end of the calibre, as shown at a, 
Fig. 31, may pass to same point b, on 
the other side of the bore, and be thence 
reflected to the eye, thus forming at b, 
an image at the end of the bore, of one 
reflection. Another ray from the same 
point may pursue the route a, c, cl, e , 
forming an image at d of two reflec¬ 
tions. Another ray may take the 
route, a, /, g, h, e , forming an image at 
h by three reflections, and so on for the 
other images since in the formation of 
each of these images, respectively, the 
angles of incidence and reflection are 
equal, it follows that the focus, or 









ON WORK ON GUN BARRELS. 


151 


point of place of the image b , formed by one re¬ 
flection of light, is at one-third of the distance 
from the eye to the further end of the bore; that 
formed by two reflections d , is one-fifth; that by 
three reflections is one-seventh, and the succeeding 
ones, one-ninth, one-eleventh, etc., of the same dis¬ 
tance. 

Therefore, it will be observed that all these images 
are located within the third part of the length of the 
bore nearest to the eye. Consequently there are two- 
thirds of the entire length of the bore in which none 
of these images appear. It is to this part of the bore, 
only that the workman directs his attention, for it is 
here only that he can cause the “shade” to appear 
which discloses the crooks in the bore if any exist. 
When this part is straightened, he inverts the barrel 
and works from the other end. 

The practical application of the process is made in 
this manner: the workman has a rest, generally 
consisting of an upright strip of board of convenient 
height with a V cut in its upper end for conveni¬ 
ence in resting the barrel in case of rotating it. 
Across a window opposite, at almost any distance, 
say about ten or twelve feet, is nailed horizontally, 
a strip of board like a common lath, as the horizontal 
bar of the window sashes where they come together 
at the middle of the window (provided there be up¬ 
per and lower sashes) will answer nearly as good a 
purpose. Now place one end of the barrel in the V 
of the rest, look into the bore, directing the eye to 
the lower side of it and to the point just beyond the 


152 


THE GUNSMITH'S MANUAL. 


image b ; gradually depress the end held in the hand, 
bringing the direction nearer and nearer to the hor¬ 
izontal strip, or the sash bar as the case 
may be, and a dark shade is soon seen as 
shown at m, Fig. 32. This is the reflected 
image of the horizontal strip, or sash 
bar, the curved part of the outline being 
the image of the straight-edge. Depress 
the end more and more and the shade 
lengthens to n, o, p , etc. If the bore be 
perfectly straight, the shade will always 
maintain a true and symmetrical para¬ 
bolic form, growing more and more 
pointed at its apex, until it reaches the 
further end of the bore. But if there be 
even the slightest flexure or crook in the 
bore the parabolic figure of the shade will 
be distorted. If a distortion be discov¬ 
ered, the barrel is slowly revolved about 
its axis as it is retained in the rest; at 
the same time slightly elevating and de¬ 
pressing the end held in the hands, until 
the shade assumes a form in which the 

© two sides near the apex are equally drawn 
in toward each other as shown at q. If 
the crook be considerable the two sides 
may be drawn quite together, cutting off 
a portion of the shade of the apex as at r. 
Figure 32. This tells that there is a crook at g, and 
also tells that the bore is concave downward at that 
point. It will require some experience to tell how 


JL -i. 









ON WORK ON GUN BARRELS. 


153 


far that point is from the eye, but when that is 
learned, the fore-finger placed upon this point on the 
under side of the barrel tells where the blow must 
be given to straighten it as it ought to be. 

Another Method .—Another method to ascertain if 
a barrel be straight, is to insert a slip of card into 
the muzzle of the gun and then look through the 
bore to the light. If the slip of card be properly 
placed the “ shade ” can readily be seen. The card 
slip need not be more than one-quarter of an inchin 
width and in length to just fit the muzzle so that it 
will be retained in place. It must be placed with 
the edge of the card toward the e}^e. 

Fitting Barrels Together .—When selecting a pair 
of gun barrels, preparatory to joining them for the 
purpose of making a double-barreled gun, it is nec¬ 
essary to ascertain if the barrels be of the same 
length, and have the same size at breech and muzzle, 
and also at points between the breech and muzzle. 
Nearly all shot-gun barrels are ground, or made some 
smaller at the centre of their length than at other 
portions. Any one who is not conversant with this 
may be somewhat surprised on placing a straight¬ 
edge along the side of a barrel, a common musket 
barrel, for instance. Place the straight-edge on the 
top or bottom side, as the right and left hand sides 
are flattened, near the breech, and, of course, on 
these sides the hollowing of the centre is not so 
readily observed. 

As the musket barrel has been mentioned, it may 
be inferred that two of these barrels are to be joined 


154 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


together. The first step is to cut them off at either 
end, to make them of the length desired, for as 
issued from the armories for army use, the barrels 
are too long to make a gun to be handled with ease 
and convenience. If they are cut down to the 
length of thirty or thirty* two inches they will be 
long enough for sporting purposes. According to 
the weight of gun desired, cut from either end; cut 
off the breech if a light gun is wanted, or cut off the 
muzzle to make a heavy gun. 

The first step after cutting off and truing up the 
ends of the barrels, is to select the two sides to be 
joined together and file these two sides flat, more at 
the breech and less at the muzzle, until the smaller 
diameters at the middle just touch each other, with¬ 
out being so filed. 

When you have in this way both barrels flattened 
as nearly alike as possible and as straight as can be 
done by testing with a straight-edge, lay both barrels 
on a level surface, and see that the flattened places 
touch each other true and evenly. To know if the 
flattening has been done parallel with the outside 
flats at the breech (supposing these to be left on the 
barrels) place a small square on the same surface on 
which the barrels are laid, letting the upright arm 
of the square just touch the outside flat. If the 
square touch the flat alike from top to bottom, then 
the flats are parallel, but if there be an open space to 
be seen, then file away the flat to be joined until the 
square indicates that both inner and outer flats are 
parallel. Be particular in regard to this, as it is 


ON WORK ON GUN BARRELS. 


155 


easier to correct the inner flattened surface than to 
make parallel the outer one. 

If the same amount be taken from the breech as 
from the muzzle, the point of divergence will not be 
sufficient for accurate shooting. More must be taken 
from the breech to allow of this divergence to be 
extended a greater distance. The flattening at the 
muzzle does not require to be very great, yet must 
be done to some extent; but, as before remarked, 
this will depend upon the smallness or size of the 
middle portions of the barrel. 

It is very doubtful if any two gunsmiths will agree 
as to the inclination of a pair of barrels. Perhaps 
it would be almost foolishness to insist on any defi¬ 
nite or certain inclination, so that the converging 
lines would come to a point. As an instance, let the 
point of divergence be two and a half yards, it fol¬ 
lows that at forty yards the right barrel, if the gun 
were rigidly held as if fixed in a vice, would throw 
its charge about six inches to the left of the mark, 
and the left barrel, vice versa. 

Let it be supposed that two barrels are each thirty- 
two inches in length and one-sixteenth inch thick at 
the muzzle and three-sixteenths thick at the breech, 
it requires the difference four-sixteenths be multi¬ 
plied by the times the length of the barrels are con¬ 
tained in the forty yards, this being forty-five, to as¬ 
certain what distance the point of the different lines 
are from each other. In this case it is eleven and 
one-quarter inches, or five inches and five-eighths of 
an inch from the centre or line of sight. It may be 


/ 


156 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


remarked that if the point of convergence be forty 
yards it will be productive of as good results, per¬ 
haps, as any other. 

Joining Barrels Together .—After the barrels are 
fitted together so that they are parallel, touching 
each other their entire length and equally in a ver¬ 
tical line, the next thing in order is to fit the top and 
bottom ribs. Fit the lower thimble or pipe through 
which the cross-bolt goes and cut the under rib to 
fit both above and below it, as this thimble is 
soldered direct to the barrels, not to the rib. Mark 
along the sides of the ribs with a sharp scriber, so 
as to leave a distinct line on the barrels to indicate 
their location. File bright and smooth the parts of 
the pipe and ribs where they are to be joined to the 
barrels and tin with good soft solder. Also tin the 
barrels where they are to be joined, and where the 
ribs come in contact. This is easily done by using a 
clear charcoal fire and heating the barrels and ribs 
quite slowly. Use muriate of zinc for flux, and 
apply the solder with a common soldering copper. 
If the copper be quite heavy and well heated the 
ribs can be tinned from the heat of the copper, as 
there is no need of putting these parts in the fire. 
If the barrels be properly heated and the solder 
beaten out thin on an anvil, it may be rubbed on 
the barrels without the aid of the copper. When it 
melts and flows, wipe off the surplus with a woolen 
rag which has been slightly moistened with oil. 

When the barrels and other parts are nicely 
tinned, let them cool, and then fasten them in place 


ON WORK ON GUN BARRELS, 


157 


in the manner they are to remain with binding- 
wire. Put a rod of iron through the lower thimble, 
and also through the upper thimbles, if they are to 
be fastened at this time. The reason of putting in 
this rod is twofold: it serves to keep the thimbles 
straight with the barrels, so as to properly receive the 
ramrod, and at the same time tends to hold the un¬ 
der rib firmly in place. 

Before fastening the parts with binding wire, fill 
the space between the top rib and barrels with small 
pieces of solder, or what is better, a small rod of 
solder like a wire, but not large enough to interfere 
with the rib fitting close to the barrels. 

Soldering Barrels Together .—Now begin to care¬ 
fully heat the work, commencing at the breech, and 
when sufficiently hot, don’t heat too fast nor too 
hot, apply solder, using the muriate of zinc as a 
flux, to the joinings of the ribs and barrels. If the 
solder be hammered quite thin it will be readily 
melted by the heat of the barrels, and will be 
“sucked in” until the space between the different 
pieces is completely filled. Proceed carefully in this 
way until the entire length of the barrels is gone 
over. Turn the work often in the fire, so that all 
portions are evenly heated. At the muzzle fit and 
insert a small piece to fill the interstice between the 
barrels and the top rib. 

It is necessary that all the space between the top 
rib and the barrels be completely filled with solder, 
or rust will form there, which will prove of serious 
detriment to the barrels, and in time work under the 


158 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


ribs, throwing them from the barrels if even a little 
torsion or springing of the barrels should ever take 
place. 

During the progress of soldering, see that the 
parts are kept pressed close together, and that they 
do not spring away from each other by their expan¬ 
sion during heating. A small iron clamp screw 
placed at the breech and also one at the muzzle, is 
very convenient, as by tightening the screw there is 
less danger of the parts springing apart. When the 
breech is soldered and somewhat cooled, the clamp 
there placed can be removed. These clamps, made 
of malleable iron, can be obtained at the hardware 
stores. 

When the work is soldered and is cool, wash it 
well with warm water, using a stiff brush to remove 
dirt and all traces of the acid flux that may remain 
on the work. With a chisel or scraper remove all 
superfluous solder and brighten the work with 
emery cloth or paper of different grades. Begin 
with the coarser and finishing with the fine or with 
flour and emery. 

Why not Braze Barrels f —It was formerly the 
practice to braze barrels together, with spelter solder, 
at the breech or at both breech and muzzle, but good 
workmen condemn the practice, as heating the bar¬ 
rels to a high heat in order to melt this solder some¬ 
what diminishes the strength of the metal, and as it 
is also necessary to again clean and brighten the 
work after brazing, and to perfectly brighten the 
flats where they lie together is not so easy a matter. 


ON WORK ON GUN BARRELS. 


159 


In the life of the gun, it was found to be of no real 
benefit to thus braze them, as the parts were securely 
held in place if well soldered with soft solder, and 
of late years but very few barrels have been thus 
brazed. 

Select solder of good quality, put the work well 
together, and the barrels will remain firmly and 
rigidty in place, and will not be separated except by 
unfair means. 

Percussioning .—The term Percussioning is used 
to designate the operations of drilling, and finishing 
the cone or nipple seat, tapping, putting in the tube 
or cone (by some called nipple) and otherwise finish¬ 
ing up the parts bearing relationship to the cone 
seat. 

The first operation, after ascertaining the locality 
where to drill the hole for the nipple, is to drill this 
hole. If a double gun the nipples must be inserted 
as near the centre of the breech as possible to get 
them and have a direct communication, with no un¬ 
necessary angles, in the passage-way of the flame 
of the cap to the powder in the chamber. From 
the bottom of the hole drilled for the nipple a small 
vent, as small as can conveniently be made, must or 
ought to communicate directly to the powder cham¬ 
ber. The nipple ought to be seated or screwed to 
the bottom of the hole and the vent be an unbroken 
continuation of the opening through the nipple. 
Let there be no chamber or reservoir between the 
bottom end of the nipple and the bottom of the hole 
in which it is screwed. 


160 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


But to return to the drilling. From the axial or 
central line of the barrel, this hole must be drilled 
at an angle of forty-five degrees so that the nipple 
when inserted shall stand at that angle. In the cut 
Fig. 33, a represents the central line of the barrels, b 
a line at right angles to this, and c the angle of forty- 
five degrees. If the workman have no lathe and is 
necessitated to use a bit-stock or breast drill, a piece 
of iron can be fitted to lay upon the barrels with one 
end elevated three or four inches with the end turned 



a 


Figure 33. 


at an angle in a hole drilled in this end to receive the 
drill, which should fill the hole. By clamping this 
upon the barrels, inserting the drill in the hole and 
having a prick mark where the hole is to be made 
for the nipple, it forms a reliable guide to insure the 
correctness of the hole, and also to get any number 
of holes alike. To insure the hole to be tapped or 
threaded properly the guide can be kept in position 
and the hole tapped after being cupped to form the 
seat. 

If a lathe be used to drill the hole, a piece of wood 
or an iron forging can be fitted to the spindle against 
which the work is held and when made of the proper 
angle and the barrel confined upon it to drill the hole, 




ON WORK ON GUN BARRELS. 


161 


no guide is necessary, as the drill being held in the 
spindle and the spindle running in its hearings ope¬ 
rates upon the same principle as the guide clamped 
upon the barrels. An upright drill can be fitted 
with a forging or casting to hold the barrels in the 
same manner. 

The size of hole to be drilled ought to be that of 
the smaller sized nipples, as in time frequent re-tap¬ 
pings to insert new nipples will enlarge the hole. 
Perhaps a broken nipple may necessitate drilling or 
cutting out and the thread may be injured some¬ 
what, so that it may have to be bored out and a new 
thread made to receive a larger nipple. 

After the hole is drilled it is cupped or a seat 
formed for the shoulders of the nipple to rest upon. 



Figure 34. 


This is done with the tool shown in Fig. 34. The 
guide is used to get the proper angle of this seat, the 
same as in drilling. The stem at the end of the cut¬ 
ting portion of the tool, enters and fills the hole 
drilled, which insures the correct formation of the 
seat. The tap is held in the guide in the same man¬ 
ner and it follows that the thread has been made at 
the same angle that the hole was drilled. 

Finishing Nipple Seat .—The filing and finishing 
of the nipple seat is one in which tastes differ or the 









162 


THE GUNSMITH'S MANUAL. 


price of the work may demand. This hint may be 
given, the seating tool must cut a seat large enough 
to receive the nipple and in filing keep this seat full 
size, taking care not to allow the file to take away 
or reduce any portion of it. A study of this por¬ 
tion of different guns that may come under the ob¬ 
servation of the workman is the best guide for form¬ 
ing and shaping these parts. The first effort may 
be to form a nipple seat from a piece of hard wood 
shaped like the barrel with its lump, using the drill, 
the seating tool and even the tap, then finish up 
with files, as if it were iron, and insert the nipple. 
Better to correct a fault in a “ sham ” of wood than 
spoil a good barrel breech. 

The Vent, in Percussion Gun Barrels .—When the 
old flint-lock was pushed to one side by the introduc¬ 
tion of the percussion principle, it was thought by 
many that there was a difference in shooting and 
that the flint-lock shot “ smoother” than its substi¬ 
tute. In the percussion gun there was thought to be 
more recoil than in the other form of gun. It was 
supposed that the hermetically closing of the breech, 
as the firing took place, was the cause of this, and to 
remedy the matter a small vent was drilled near the 
locality of the vent or “ touch-hole ” of the old-time 
arm. A few gunsmiths and many users of arms 
cling to the vent and could “ not do without it.” 
Some claim that this vent is of use, as it enables air 
to circulate through the barrel, after the ignition of 
the charge. While both these theories are doubted 
by others, one thing is quite certain, it increases the 


ON WORK ON GUN BARRELS. 


163 


certainty and also aids the rapid ignition of the 
charge, as the air contained among the powder and 
held there in a more or less state of pressure, being 
so forced and held by the wadding, retards in some 
measure the entrance of the tire from the percus¬ 
sion cap. The vent allows this confined air to escape, 
and that is the only real and apparent good that can 
be accredited to it. In making these vents make 
them very small, and in no instance let them exceed 
a thirty-second of an inch. To prevent their being 
closed by rust or the debris of burnt powder, drill a 
larger hole, tap a thread in it and screw in a silver 
wire and then drill the vent through the wire after it 
has been finished to conform to the shape of the 
parts adjacent. 

The Patent Breech .—The patent breech has been 
the subject of much discussion and much experi¬ 
menting, some experts claiming one form to be su¬ 
perior to others, and then again there are those who 
set the patent breech aside and claim that the old 
fiat-faced breech-pin is as good as any ever yet made. 
The formation of the base of the breech-loading 
shell has been called up as evidence in favor of the 
latter claim. The two forms are called in question, 
and then the query is made, “ Does not the breech¬ 
loader shoot better or as well as the patent- 
breeched muzzle-loader?” But the patent breech is 
in favor with the mass of those who use the muzzle- 
loader, and no doubt has its advantages. The at¬ 
tempt has been made to form the interior base of a 
cartridge for breech-loaders upon the model of the 


164 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


interior of a patent breech, but thus far has not 
come into very extensive use. 

Form of the Chamber or Cup .—While many forms 
of the chamber or cup of the patent breech are in 
use, the most simple form, and the one easiest to 
make, is that of an inverted elliptical cone. This 
form may be represented by the shape of an acorn 
if it were cut off even with the top of the cup. The 
shape is also one that will not weaken the breech 
nor affect the strength of the thread where it enters 
the barrel. The tool to shape it is easy to make. 
Turn a piece of steel the exact shape the “cup” is to 
be and then make a cutting tool of it by filing a 
groove on two sides, exactly like a flat drill of the 
required elliptical form, but with a “bulge” or 
cheek left on each side, and then file a groove mid¬ 
way in this cheek from point to base, and make it so 
as to form two cutting edges on each side of the cut 
first made. Each prominent part must be formed 
into cutting edges, like the cutting edges of a coni¬ 
cal-shaped cherry to cut out bullet moulds. The 
cut, of bullet cherry, Fig. 71, Chapter XXVII, 
shows the way to make this tool. 

With this form of “cup” there is great solidity 
of breech, and there need be but little fear of miss- 
fire or hang-fire in shooting, if the gun be properly 
loaded. 


CHAPTER XVII. 


TOOLS FOR BREECHING GUNS. 

Breeching Reamers. — The form of breeching 
reamers is shown in Fig. 35. The extension is sup¬ 
posed to fill the bore of the gun, and when it does 
so the tool will make a cut that is straight and true. 
When this extension does not fill, then slip a brass 



Figure 35 . 

ferrule or a piece of tubing on it, or it may be even 
wrapped with a piece of card or strong paper, as 
mentioned in case of taps that have extensions 
smaller than the bore of the gun. 

The size of these reamers must be to suit the taps ; 
that is they must be of a size corresponding to the 
tap if the thread were removed. The length of 
the extension may be about an inch, and the cut¬ 
ting portion of a length to correspond to the length 
of the breech-pins, for when using them where the 
reamer has entered the barrel until it is flush or 
even with the length of the cutting part, it is evi¬ 
dent that it has penetrated as far as it ought to go. 






166 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


Be careful to keep the reamer well oiled when using 
it to ream out a breech. 

In making these reamers, turn them to the size 
and shape, and then file four spiral flutes, equidis¬ 
tant from each other, with a small round file, but 
remember to file them “right hand,” like a right 
hand screw thread. About a quarter’s turn in the 
length is sufficient. The end where the cutting is 
done must be “ cut back ” between each flute, so as 
to make a cutting edge, or lip. The flutes serve to 
carry the chips away from the work, and prevent 
clogging. Above the end of the cutting portion, the 
reamer may be turned down to a size a little larger 
than the extension, and it will be then a very easy 
matter to nicely cut the flutes with a round file, as 
directed. 

Breeching Taps. — The usual diameters of rifle 
breech pins are three-eighths, one-half, and five- 
eighths of an inch ; of shot guns three-quarters and 
seven-eighths of an inch. The thread of the rifle is 
generally fourteen to the inch, and the shot gun 
sixteen to the inch. The breech pins of military 
arms vary. Some are made with coarse thread and 
some with fine thread, ranging from ten to eighteen 
threads per inch. There is no arbitrary rule for 
breeching guns, and excepting English made guns, 
almost every conceivable size and thread may be 
found in guns that are brought in to be repaired. 
In rifle and shot guns the fourteen and sixteen 
thread will be found to predominate. In unbreech¬ 
ing guns that have been made by “experts” of 


TOOLS FOR BREECHING GUNS. 


167 


some country town, who built the arms “ to order,” 
or in overhauling guns that have been repaired at 
the same kind of establishments, it will not be un¬ 
common to find threads in the barrels that have 
been cut with a blacksmith’s taper tap, and the pin 
tapered to suit the thread so formed. It will be 
nothing uncommon to find a breech that is made to 
one side of the bore, or made with a crooked thread. 
If tapped with the taper tap, the thread may be 
found to be ten or twelve to the inch, according as 
a tap to fit the breech could be found. 

Let the workman discard all such ways of breech¬ 
ing guns. Let him procure a set of taps of the sizes 
and threads as noticed at the beginning of this arti- 



Figure 36 . 

cle, and “ stick to these sizes.” If the thread in a 
gun be worn, and the pin be loose or leak fire, then 
ream out the old thread, cut it anew, and put in a 
new pin. 

Breeching taps should be made in pairs, one ta¬ 
pered a little and its mate made straight and with a 
full thread, so as to cut full at the bottom where the 
thread terminates. If the first tap be not tapered a 
little, the thread should be nearly all removed at the 
end, and gradually inc sed for five or six threads, 














168 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


when it will be of full size. A stem or projection is 
made as shown in the cut, Fig. 36, which enters and 
fills the bore of the gun and so serves to insure a 
thread straight with the barrel. If the bore be 
larger than the extension, slip over it a piece of 
brass tube or a ferrule of some kind, until it fits a 
little snug in the bore. If but little be wanting to 
make the fit, a piece of writing paper or a bit of 
card may be wrapped around it. Old-fashioned 



Figure 37. 


gunsmiths have been known to wind tow around an 
extension to make a fit. 

The diameter of these extensions must be that of 
the smallest bored gun in which they w r ill be used. 
The extension of the shot-gun tap may be about 
half-inch diameter. The length of the extension 
may be about an inch for rifles and an inch and a 
quarter for shot guns, the thread about an inch in 
length. The whole length of rifle taps may be 
about three and a half inches, for shot-guns about 
four inches. 





TOOLS FOR BREECHING GUNS. 


169 


Breech Pin Formers .—These tools are made of 
steel and have holes drilled through them and 
cutting teeth formed on one end (as shown in Fig. 
37). In use it may he held stationary, and the 
breech-pin turned in the hole until the teeth form 
it to size and remove enough in length for the screw 
to be cut on the pin. Eight teeth are enough for 
the smaller sizes of these tools. If made with more 
teeth they are consequently finer and shallower and 
do not operate so well, or cannot be ground to an 
edge or sharpened with an oil stone if they become 
dull. The sizes must correspond with the size of 
the breech taps, or a little less than this size, as 
the dies used in cutting generally “raise” a thread 
a little larger than the work. The length of these 
tools may be about three-fourths of an inch or an 
inch, as may be best to make them. In use they can 
be held in a lathe chuck and the pin presented to 
them while running, or the operation may be re¬ 
versed, the pin being rotated and the cutter held 
stationary. If to be used by hand, hold them in a 
vise or clamp, or make a fixture to hold the pin, 
using a bit-stock for turning them for cutting. 

The advantage of these tools is that the work is 
done quick, the body of the pin is of the same diam¬ 
eter, and the shoulder -where it abuts against the 
barrel is true with the body; using a file for the 
work, it is difficult to produce these requirements. 


i 


CHAPTER XVIII. 

TOOLS FOR CHAMBERING BREECH-LOADING BARRELS. 

When chambering barrels for breech-loaders, the 
utmost care should be observed to make the cham¬ 
ber exactly concentric with the bore, and have it 
smooth and well finished. Do not trust to a drill or 
a flat reamer ; neither will a half-round or a com¬ 
mon fluted reamer answer the purpose. Take, for 
instance, a bore for a thirty-eight cartridge. Fig. 



Figure 38. 


38 shows the tool for chambering, and Fig. 39 the 
tool for recessing for the head of the cartridge. 
The diameter of the tool for chambering is thir¬ 
teen sixty-fourths. The tool for recessing for the 
head is seven-sixteenths. The body of the cutting 
portion is about seven-eighths or an inch long. An 
extension is formed beyond the cutting part which 
must exactly fill the bore of the barrel and serves as 
a guide to insure the cutting part making the cham¬ 
ber in proper relation to the bore. 

The neck or recess in front of the cutting part is 
for a three-fold purpose; it forms a receptacle for 
the chips or cuttings, which otherwise would clog 










CHAMBERING BREECH-LOADING BARRELS. 


m 


the tool as soon as the teeth were filled, and would 
probably result in a rough surface by being forced 
between the wall of the chamber and the tool back 
of the teeth ; it also serves to produce a better 
shaped tooth, which is done with a fine cut three- 



Figure 39. 


square file, and finally by the teeth being made be¬ 
low the surface of the extension a square cut is pro¬ 
duced with no feather edge where the chamber ter¬ 
minates. 

The cutting teeth of the chambering tool are made 
so as to produce a bevel at the end of the chamber, 
and by this means avoid shaving the ball, as would 
be the case if it passed over a sharp angle. The re¬ 
cessing tool is made square on the cutting end. 

For larger bores than a forty-four, the tools may 
be advantageously made a little different, as shown 



Figure 40. 


in Fig. 40. The shank of the tool may be made of 
a cheaper grade of steel and the extension much 
smaller than the bore of the gun. At a, is showm a 
steel thimble that is turned to the proper size and 


























172 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


has teeth cut on the end. This is tempered and is 
put on over the extension and held by a wire or pin 
passing through both thimble and extension. At b 
is another thimble, made preferably of brass, that 
fits the bore. It can then be worked in the barrel 
with less fear of scratching the barrel, as might be 
the case if it were of steel or iron. The space left 
between the brass thimble and the teeth forms a re¬ 
cess to receive the cuttings. The diameter of a 
twelve gauge chambering tool will be about forty- 
nine sixty-fourths, and the diameter of the cham¬ 
bering tool will be about twenty-seven thirty-sec¬ 
onds. The length of the cutting thimbles can be 
about one inch. The brass thimbles about three- 
quarters of an inch. The cutting thimbles should 
rest against a shoulder, as at c. These thimbles 
should be fastened, a finish turned on the shanks on 
which they are to remain, after the shanks are 
turned. The brass thimbles are held by being 
driven on the extension, and should be turned up 
true after being driven in place. 

When making these tools, form the cutter for the 
chamber about one-liundredth of an inch larger 
than the bore of the cartridge to allow for easy ex¬ 
traction. The brass thimbles ought to be of the size 
of the interior of the cartridge, which is supposed to 
be exactly the same as the bore. The tool for recess¬ 
ing the head may be a trifle larger, say about a thir¬ 
ty -second, than the diameter of the cartridge head. 
If it be made one-sixteenth larger it will not matter. 
Eight cutting teeth are enough for these tools. 


CHAPTER XIX, 


ON GUN RIBS. 

How to Straighten a Gun Rib .—Gun ribs, as re¬ 
ceived from the manufacturer or dealer, are more or 
less crooked and winding and must be made straight 
before being fastened to the gun barrel. Sometimes 
this straightening can be done with the hands alone, 
by bending and twisting the rib. If there are short 
crooks, the hammer must be used. Select a hammer 
that has a flat pene and this pene must be “ across ” 
or at right angles to the handle. See that the pene 
is not too sharp, but smooth and rounded at its edge. 
Place the rib to be straightened on a piece of hard 
wood plank, or what is better, get a piece of two- 
inch plank about a foot wide and long enough to 
reach from the floor to a height a little above the 
work-bench, say about the height of the top of the 
vise. It may be held in an upright position by means 
of a screw passing through it into the bench, or it 
can be so held by setting it on the floor and clamp¬ 
ing one side between the jaws of the vise. On this 
hold the rib, lengthwise with the end of the plank, 
and using the pene of the hammer, strike blows on 
the inner or curved side of the rib. Do not strike 
hard enough to dent or bruise the rib so as to show 
on the opposite side. By a little practice a rib can 
be made very straight and true. 


174 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


How to Fit a Rib .—Sometimes one side of a rib is 
longer than the other. Fit it into a properly shaped 
groove in a piece of board, clamp it so as to hold 
firmly and file away the longer side so as to match 
the narrow one. The clamps can be made of two 
pieces of wood placed on each side of the part to be 
filed, holding them and the rib with wood screws, the 
rib being moved along as a portion is filed. 

How to Fit a Rib to an Octagon Barrel .—To fit a 
rib to an octagon barrel, file the portion where it 
comes in contact, square across so as to have all the 
surface possible to touch the barrel. To fit it to a 
round barrel, file lengthwise with a half-round file, 
and so file that the outer edges will fit close, leaving 
the inner edges a little open, or not quite touching 
the barrel A half-round file for fitting ribs to round 
barrels should have the tang bent toward the flat 
side so that when the file handle is put on, it will 
not interfere with filing. 

How to Solder on a Rib .—The inner edges of the 
rib must be filed bright and smooth, so must that 
portion where it touches the barrel. Bear in mind 
that s< lder will not adhere, unless the surface is made 
bright. This being done wet a short length of the 
rib with soldering acid, warm it to a proper heat in 
the forge fire, and with a common soldering copper, 
also properly heated, tin or cover the melted surface 
with solder. With the acid wet another distance, say 
about three inches, heat and tin this, and so repeat 
until the entire length of the rib has been gone over. 
Be careful to have plenty of solder adhering to the 


ON GUN RIBS. 


175 


inner sides. Also be very careful not to heat the rib 
so as to blue or blacken it, for when so done no 
solder will adhere, and the surface so made must 
be brightened up again before going any further 
with the tinning. 

The next thing to be done is to draw-file the gun 
barrel where the rib is to be fastened on, and care 
must be taken to have the surface bright and clean, 
or the solder will not adhere. Place the breech end 
of the barrel in a clean charcoal fire and carefully 
w 7 arm it sufficiently, w r et with the acid, and with the 
soldering copper tin over where it was draw-filed. 

Two tests can be applied to learn if the barrel be 
sufficiently heated. One is that when a drop of acid 
is put on it will “ sizzle ” or boil ; the other test is to 
hold it close to the cheek and if a warm “glow” of 
heat is felt from it, it is hot enough. 

When the surface is tinned, and before the barrel 
is cold enough so as to harden the solder, wipe off 
the surplus with a rag, and if the rag be slightly 
oiled, it will operate all the better. The solder used 
is common soft solder such as used by tinsmiths. 
Repeat the process of heating and tinning three or 
four inches at a time, until the entire length of the 
barrel has been gone over. Then, after it is cool, 
place the rib in position, confining it in place with 
binding wire, putting it round both rib and barrel, 
t wisting the ends pretty firmly together. Fasten the 
rib in this way, at intervals of about six inches, be¬ 
ing careful that the rib is held evenly, closely and 
firmly to the barrel. 


176 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


Now commence at the breech, heat both barrel and 
rib carefully, avoiding all smoke and soot, wetting 
the joint on each side of the rib with the acid, touch¬ 
ing the part with solder taken up on the point of 
the heated soldering copper. The surplus solder on 
the inner surface of the rib will flow down to the 
joint, between the rib and the barrel, as it is heated, 
and by touching the joint with the copper charged 
with solder, the outer edges of the joint will be com¬ 
pletely filled, and both barrel and rib be perfectly 
united. So continue until the rib is soldered its en¬ 
tire length. When cool remove the binding wires, 
and wash thoroughly with warm water. This will 
remove the acid, which would otherwise rust the 
bright surface. Wipe dry and if the work is to stand 
for any length of time, oil it lightly by rubbing it 
over with a rag that is moistened with oil. 

The best way to remove the surplus solder at the 
joints is by means of scrapers. Take an old flat file, 
about six inches long, grind the teeth clean off on 
each side for an inch or two at the end, and also 
grind the end “square.” By using this tool in the 
same way that a chisel is used, it is very effective. 
A scraper made of an old three-square file with the 
teeth ground away at the end is also a good tool. 
Carefully remove all traces of solder or it will show 
after the barrel has been used a little. If the work 
is to be browned, the browning will not “take” 
where the solder remains. 

How to Re-solder Ribs .—It often happens that 
double guns are brought in that have the top rib 


ON GUN RIBS. 


177 


loosened from the barrels at the breech, and some¬ 
times the soldering of the barrels, also at the breech, 
has been broken, so that they are quite separated. 
The cause of this is generally an effort to remove 
the patent breeches by some one who has not the 
proper appliances for the work. The barrels being 
caught in a vise, and a monkey-wrench, or some 
similar kind of wrench, applied, and as the breeches 
fit very tight, perhaps being rusted somewhat, con¬ 
siderable force is applied, and the torsion or twisting 
so occasioned starts and separates the parts as de¬ 
scribed. 

To re-unite these parts, remove the breeches, care¬ 
fully raise the rib as far as can be done without 
bending it, and hold it thus in place by inserting a 
slip of wood so as to retain it. Use a slim-pointed 
scraper and scrape bright and clean the surface of 
the rib, and both barrels, where the rib comes in 
contact. Tin the parts with a heavy soldering 
copper, but do not put them in the fire to heat 
them ; rely solely on the heat of the copper, taking 
time to do the work. When nicely tinned, put the 
rib in place, confining it with binding wire, and 
finish the soldering in the forge fire, the same as 
when putting on new ribs. 

Before putting the rib in place, fill the space be¬ 
tween the rib and barrels pretty full of solder, cut 
in strips, like pieces of wire. If necessary, use the 
copper to assist the soldering, as they are being 
worked in the fire. 

A scraper for such work may be made of a small 


178 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

three-square file, say about four inches long ; grind 
the sides so as to remove the teeth, and sharpen to 
a point. 

As a precaution against starting the rib from the 
barrel by heating, put pieces of binding wire tightly 
around, both above and below, twisting them tightly. 
With this security there will be no harm done even 
if the solder be melted between rib and barrel, in 
proximity to the thimble. 

Height of Ribs .—The only way to ascertain the 
proper height of a gun rib, when put on the barrels, 
is to take the length of the barrels, and from this 
length make the calculation, as different lengths 
require some difference in height of rib. It is to be 
supposed that forty yards is the distance from the 
shooter to the object fired at, and at this distance a 
heavy charge of shot will drop about twelve inches. 
As the sights on shot guns are fixed, it is necessary 
that the rib be so elevated as to compensate for this 
dropping of twelve inches. Of course a lighter 
charge of shot will not drop so much as the heavy 
one, but the calculation may be based on the heavy 
charge. 

To ascertain the elevation at the breech, take the 
thickness of the breech and muzzle and multiply the 
difference by as many times as the length of the 
barrels is contained in the forty yards. This gives 
the elevation of the barrels without the rib, and the 
difference must be made out by elevating the rib. 
Many shooters complain that when their barrels 
have been shortened the shooting is not the same, 


ON GUN RIBS. 


179 


and they lay this fault to the barrels being cut 
shorter, when it is often due to the difference of 
elevation from that they were accustomed to use. 
Suppose a pair of barrels were to be shortened, say, 
four inches, at the same elevation there will be 
more lengths in the forty yards, hence a difference 
in the sighting and consequently in the shooting. 

The calculation for the elevation of ribs is the 
same as that given for fitting barrels together, and 
the same principles there given will apply to this 
subject. 


CHAPTER XX. 


ON THIMBLES. 

How to Make Thimbles .—What is called a thimble 
by gunsmiths is the short tube, soldered, or other¬ 
wise attached to the gun barrel, which retains the 
ramrod in place when not in use. To make these 
thimbles, form them on a piece of steel about a foot 
long, turned tapering; the large end being about 
nine-sixteenths, and the small end about five-six¬ 
teenths of an inch in diameter. This will answer 
for about all sizes of wooden rods as they are pur¬ 
chased. These rods are generally, the largest of 
them, about five-eighths of an inch diameter at the 
large end and about three-eighths at the small end. 

The thimbles may be made of brass, iron, or 
German silver, according to taste, but iron is gener¬ 
ally preferred. Take common sheet or Russia iron, 
the same as used for making stove-pipe. The best 
thickness is about twenty-two or twenty-three, by 
the English gauge. For convenience, get the sheet 
cut in strips from an inch to an inch and a-half in 
width—the tinsmith’s squaring shears being a ready 
means to cut up the sheet into strips. Generally 
make the upper thimble about an inch and a half 
long, and the lower or middle thimbles, be these one 
or two, a little narrower, say, about an inch. For 


ON THIMBLES. 


181 


permanency and looks a long thimble is preferable. 
Cut off pieces from the strips of sheet-iron, just 
long enough to go around the ramrod, then roll 
them up like a tube by bending them around a 
tapered steel rod, using a small hard wood mallet 
for the purpose, holding them in the vise to assist 
in the operation. 

For rifle rods, which are not tapered, the thimbles 
may be rolled up on a straight piece of steel, a trifle 
larger than the rod, so that the rod will slide easily 
within when put in place. Take pains in forming 
them, so that the fold or joint will come evenly and 
squarely together. 

How to Put Thimbles on Barrels .—File bright 
and tin the thimbles where they are to be 
joined to the rib. Observe if the thimbles fit the 
rod properly by putting the rod in them and then 
inserting the rod in place in the gun stock. Mark 
the place on the rib or barrel where the thimbles are 
to be fastened, and remove both rod and thimbles 
from the gun. If to be attached to a rib, file a spot 
the length of the thimbles where it was marked, 
and file it of a depth equal to the thickness of the 
metal of which the thimble is made. Too deep 
filing may cut through the rib, and too little filing 
will leave the thimble projecting above the rib, so 
that the rod will hit or rub as it is being pushed 
down in place. Also let the joint of the thimble 
come in the centre of the rib when it is soldered in 
place. Tin the places filed, by heating the barrel 
carefully over the forge fire, using the soldering acid 


182 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


as for tinning the thimbles. A common tinner’s 
soldering copper is best to apply the solder. 

When the barrel is cool enough to handle put the 
thimbles on the rod, and the rod in place as it is 
intended to be when finished. Confine the thimbles 
to the barrel with pieces of binding wire, using two 
pieces to a thimble, one at each end. By putting 
the rod into the thimbles and confining them thus, 
there is no danger of their being “ askew ’’after 
being fastened, and by putting on two wires there 
is less danger of their moving while being soldered 
to the barrel. 

Make a clear fire in the forge, using charcoal if it 
can be obtained, heat the barrel very carefully until 
small pieces of solder will be melted when placed on 
the inside of the thimble. Have the soldering 
copper heated, and by using it and applying the acid 
an even amount of the solder can be applied to the 
joint outside the thimble where it joins the barrel. 
When all are soldered let the barrel cool, remove 
the binding wires and wash with warm water to re¬ 
move the acid flux, which would rust the work. A 
stiff brush is best to wash with. Scrape off the 
superfluous solder, rub the thimbles bright with 
emery-cloth, or let them remain the black color, as 
may be desired. 


CHAPTER XXI. 


ON RIFLING OF GUNS. 

Importance of Rifling .—In a rifle the grooving is 
of the utmost importance ; for velocity without 
accuracy is useless. To determine the best kind of 
groove has been, accordingly, the object of the most 
laborious investigations. The ball requires an initial 
rotary motion sufficient to keep it “ spinning’’ up 
to its range, and is found to gain in accuracy by in¬ 
creasing this rotary speed ; but if the pitch of the 
grooves be too great, the ball will refuse to follow 
them ; but being driven across them, “ strips ”— 
that is, the lead in the grooves is torn off, and the 
ball goes on without rotation. The English gun¬ 
smiths avoided the dilemma by giving the requisite 
pitch and making the grooves very deep, and even 
by having wings or lugs cast on the ball to keep it 
in the grooves—expedients which increase the fric¬ 
tion in the barrel and the resistance of the air enor¬ 
mously. 

The American gun-makers solved the problem by 
adopting the “ gaining twist,” in which the grooves 
start from the breech nearly parallel to the axis of 
the barrel, and gradually increase the spiral, until, 
at the muzzle, it has the pitch of one revolution in 
three to four ; the pitch being greater as the bore 
is less. This gives, as a result, safety from strip- 



184 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


ping, and a rapid revolution at the exit, with com¬ 
paratively little friction and shallow groove marks on 
the ball, accomplishing what is demanded of a rifled 
barrel, to a degree that no other combination of 
groove and form of missile ever has. There is no 
way of rifling so secure as that in which the walls 
of the grooves are parts of radii of the bore. They 
should be numerous, that the hold of the lands, 
or the projection left between the grooves, may 
divide the friction and resistance as much as pos¬ 
sible, and so permit the grooves to be as shallow as 
may be. Fig. 41 represents grooves cut in this way, 



but exaggerated to show more clearly their char¬ 
acter. In the Kentucky rifle this law is followed, 
except that for convenience in rifling, the grooves 
are made of the same width at the bottom and top, 
as shown in Fig. 42, which is, for the grooves of the 
depth of which they are generally made, practically 
the same, the depth in the cut being two or three 
times that generally used. 

U. S. Rifling Machines. —The rifling machines 


ON RIFLING OF GUNS. 


185 


in use by the U. S. Government at the Springfield 
Armory for cutting their grooved rifles may thus be 
described: The barrel is placed in a horizontal posi¬ 
tion in an iron frame, and held there very firmly. 
The grooves are made by three short steel cutters 
placed within three mortices, made to receive 
them, near the end of a steel tube which is 
moved through the bore of the barrel by slow 
rotary and progressive motion. The cutters are 
narrow pieces of steel having upon one side three 
angular shaped teeth about one-sixteenth of an inch 



in height, and of the width of the groove, ground to 
a very sharp edge at the top. It is these which pro¬ 
duce the rifling. The three cutters, when inserted 
in the tube, form upon their inner surface a small 
opening which decreases toward the inner end. Into 
this is inserted a tapered steel rod, and is so con¬ 
trolled by a connecting cog-wheel that this rod is 
pushed, at every revolution, a little further into the 
tapered opening formed by the inner edges of the 
three cutters. The effect of this is to increase the 


186 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


pressure of the cutters upon the inner surface of the 
barrel, and thus gradually, at each stroke of the 
machine, deepen the cuts as produced by the rifling. 
The rod makes about twelve revolutions in a minute 
and it occupies about thirty minutes to rifle a barrel. 

Old-Fashioned Rifling Machine .—But the gun- 
maker who builds rifles to order, and perhaps then 
but a single one at a time, uses quite a different ap¬ 
paratus for rifling, although the principle involved 
is the very same. Many of the old gunsmiths made 
their own rifling machines. The simplest form was 
a common joist, two inches thick and six inches 
wide. The length about twice that of any barrel to 
be rifled. At one end, on the narrow side, was 
fixed in two bearings, one at each end so as to turn 
freely, an old rifle barrel. At the other end of the 
timber, in a line with the barrel was fixed two 
standards in which to firmly fasten the barrel to be 
rifled. At the end of the old rifle barrel, and on 
the end nearest to the end of the timber was fixed 
a circular plate of iron, like a wheel which was 
made with divisions on its circumference, and had 
a catch which was fastened to the wood, and when 
the end of this catch engaged one of the divisions it 
would firmly hold the barrel in place. When this 
plate was turned the barrel also turned. Inside of 
this barrel was placed a rod of iron, around which 
was cast some soft metal, as babbit metal or old 
type metal, or even lead. This was done by putting 
the rod in the barrel and then pouring in the metal 
when melted. A handle, similar to an auger 


ON RIFLING OF GUNS. 


187 


handle was fixed transversely to one end, but in 
such a manner as to turn around freely on the rod. 
As the rod was pushed back and forth the soft metal 
followed the rifling grooves, and this caused a turn, 
first in one direction and then in another. By the 
rod being loose on the handle the hands were held 
in the same position. 

The rifling rod was attached to the opposite end 
of the rod in the old barrel and carried a cutter let 
into a narrow groove made in the extreme end of 
the rifling rod. Very often these rods were made 
of wood iike a straignt ramrod. It is evident if a 
barrel be placed in the clamps and the rifling rod 
bearing a suitable cutter be entered in the bore of 
the barrel and the rod thurst forward by pushing 
it with the handle, that a faint spiral like cut will be 
the result. When the cutter had done its work, or 
done all that it would cut, the plate was turned 
one division, rotating the old barrel with the rifling 
rod just that amount, the barrel to be rifled, of 
course, not being turned at all. Another cutting 
was done like the first one, then another, and so on 
until the complete circle of the divisions had been 
made, and a certain number of faint rifles made in 
the fixed barrel. The cutter was then removed 
from its slot, a slip of writing paper placed in the 
bottom of the slot and the cutter put in place and 
a repetition of the same operation gone over again, 
and then repeated until the rifling was of the de¬ 
sired depth. Oil was supplied to the centres while 
going back and forth in their work. 


188 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


Gain Twist Rifling Machine .—What is called 
a gain twist was made with a slightly different 
apparatus. What is termed a “lead” was fixed 
so as to revolve in standards, and at the same 
time be capable of being thrust forward and 
pulled back to its starting place. This lead car¬ 
ried at one end the rifling rod. At the opposite end 
the handle for operating it, was fixed. The lead was 
several inches in diameter and the holes in the 
standards that supported it of like diameter. One 
make of lead had a groove cut spiralling in its sur¬ 
face and exactly the same as the rifling to be made. 
In one of the standards a stud was fixed that entered 
the groove and compelled it to turn according as the 
groove was made. The barrel to be rifled was fixed 
so as to turn as needed to make the different rifles 
or grooves. Another make of lead had a rib made 
of a strip of hard wood that was bent around the 
rod and was held in place by screws. This rib was 
the counterpart of the rifling and was received in a 
mortice cut for it in one of the standards, the 
management of the rifling rod being the same in all 
cases. 

Re-rifling .—One method of re-rifling is to make 
a rod with a mortice in one end to receive a rifling 
cutter or “ saw” as some term them, and fix at the 
other end a handle like an auger handle, but so 
fixed that the rod will turn around freely no matter 
how the handle may be held. This rod is inserted 
in the barrel to be re-rifled and the cutter forced 
through one of the rifles, which must be deep enough 


ON RIFLING OF GUNS. 


189 


to force it to follow its direction when pushed for* 
ward and pulled back until it would cut no more, it 
would be placed in another rifle and so continued 
until the circuit of the rifling is made. A slip of 
paper is then put under the cutter and a repetition 
of the process made and continued until the rifles 
are cut as deep as desired. 

If it be feared that the rifles, opposite to those 
where the cutter is at work, will be injured by its 
bearing upon them, a dove-tailed groove is made 
across the rod opposite where the cutter is placed, 
and in this is fitted a slip of wood that is cut to fit 
the curvature of the base of the barrel. If a bit of 
half-round file or a cutter be made to be inserted in 
place of the slip of wood, the lands can be finished 
at the same time that the grooves are being cut 
deeper. 

When barrels are so worn that the rifles have not 
depth enough to hold the tool described for re-rifling, 
another process must be resorted to. Make a rod 
of hard wood about six or seven inches long and so 
as to slide easily through the barrel. In one end of 
this fix the cutter. Around the other end cast lead 
or other soft metal so as to fill the rifles. It is evi¬ 
dent if this short rod be forced through the barrel 
by means of a longer one, that it must turn with the 
rifling, being so forced to do by the soft metal en¬ 
gaging the several rifles. The operation of working 
being the same as previously described. 


CHAPTEE XXII. 


ON GUN LOCKS. 

Quality of Lochs .—It is impossible to judge the 
quality of a gun lock by a mere examination, for if 
the metal be not the very best and the workmanship 
be also good, some portions, as a spring, may grow 
weak and in an unguarded moment give way. If 
the mainspring be not thoroughly tempered it may 
break the first time it be used on a frosty morning. 
It is well to see if the attachment of the stirrup or 
swivel be well made and fitted, as this controls the 
movements and play of the mainspring. The fitting 
of the sear spring on the sear is important. If too 
much cramped, it may give way; if not enough 
cramped, then it may grow weak and there will not 
be that sharp, clear click that the admirer of a good 
lock likes to hear. 

On the hanging of the swivel or stirrup depends 
the smoothness of play of the mainspring. On the 
placing of the hole for the sear-pin depends the 
sweetness of the sear operating on the tumbler. 
On the pitching of the sear depends the cutting of 
the notches of the tumbler, and on the formation 
of the first notch depends the liability of the lock 
catching at half-cock when the trigger is made to be 
easily pulled from the full cock notch. On the for- 


ON GUN LOCKS. 


191 


mation of the half-cock notch depends the safety of 
carrying the arm at half-cock. 

The Bach Action Loch.-— There are various forms 
of gun locks, and each form has its admirers. The 
back action shown in Fig. 43 admits of the arm 
being put together more strongly and securely than 
any other plan. Other advantages claimed for it 



are that the mainspring can be made longer and 
will therefore be less liable to break, and by such 
length has a smoother working motion to the ham¬ 
mer. As the lock plate is almost entirely surrounded 
by the wood of the stock, there is less liability of wet 
getting into the interior, and this may especially be 
the case as the hand, in carrying the gun, covers 
some portion of the lock. 

The Bar Loch .— This lock, Fig. 44, is so called 
from a bar formed at the breech end of the barrel, 
and to this bar the lock is fitted. The great advantage 















































192 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


of this lock is that it admits of the stock to be so 
. shaped that the grasp of the hand naturally tight¬ 
ens as the gun is raised to the shoulder. The objec¬ 
tion raised by some to this lock is that it is more 
pervious to wet than the back action lock. 

This lock possesses the advantage of having an 
arm of the tumbler so made that by th*e swivel or 



Figure 44. 


stirrup being hung upon that when the lock is at full 
cock the weight of the spring force is lessened by 
the arm acting as a lever to bring the moving force 
in the immediate vicinity of the axis on which the 
tumbler turns, and when the spring is bringing the 
hammer down on the nipple, increasing that force 
by divergence. It is sometimes called the Full Bar 
Lock. 

Side Action Lock .—In Fig. 45 is shown another 
form of lock, commonly called a side action. The 
mechanism and arrangement is similar to the full 
bar, but it has a shoulder that fits up to the barrel. 














































ON GUN LOCKS. 


193 


If the gun be fitted with a plug or cylinder a suit¬ 
able half round recess is cut in this shoulder to 
receive the plug. 

The Wesley Bar .—The Wesley bar shown in Fig. 
46 differs from the common bar lock by being of dif¬ 
ferent shape at the fore end, and this end does not 
fit up to the barrel like the bar lock. By the wood 



Figure 45. 


almost surrounding the plate, the interior is pretty 
well protected from wet. It has the same merit of 
the stock being so shaped as to tighten in the hand 
when raised to take sight. This lock has one objec¬ 
tion, the wood between the lock-plate and barrel has 
to be cut so thin that the recoil of the gun is very 
apt to break and splinter it. 

The Central Lock .—There is agrade of guns made 
with locks enclosed in the breech, or a continuation 
of the breech, in the same manner as common 
revolvers and other pistol locks are made. A view 
of this lock is given in Fig. 47. The principle is 






































194 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


much the same as the back action lock when the 
hammer is placed on one side as in the back action 
lock. One side of the frame has the same office as 
the lock plate, and the other side supports the 
tumbler and other parts the same as the bridle. The 
formation of the tumbler is such that no sear is 
necessary, the trigger bearing directly against it; 



Figure 46. 


the point of the trigger having the same office as 
the nose of the tumbler, a small spring keeping it to 
place to catch in the tumbler notches. Generally 
this form of lock has the hammer placed directly in 
the central line of the bore of the barrel, and when 
so placed the lower end of the hammer has the same 
office as the tumbler and is shaped and has notches 
cut as in a side lock tumbler. As this form of lock 
has few parts, and has a long feather-like main¬ 
spring, it is easy and pleasant to operate. 

Cleaning Locks , etc.— While the gunsmith will be 
called upon to clean and repair various parts of fire- 




























































ON GUN LOCKS. 


195 


arms, the lock is the part with which he will have 
considerable to do. And, in most kind of guns, it 
is the most complicated part, and, consequently, the 
most difficult part to manage. Not a few gun-own¬ 
ers look upon it as a kind of mystery ‘without the 
range of ordinary comprehension, hence they carry 
it to the shop, not only at the slightest indication of 
“ something wrong,” but so often 
as it would seem to need thorough 
cleaning and oiling. This is all 
well enough, for the gun as much 
as anything comes clearly within 
the application of the rule which 
admonishes that “a stitch in 
time saves nine.” All of which 
being the case, one of the earliest 
things that the gunsmith will be 
called upon to study will be 
How to Take Down a Lock .— 

Having removed the lock from 
the gun, set the hammer at full- 
cock. Apply the hand-vise, or 
mainspring clamp, if he has one, to the main¬ 
spring, having first placed a bit of chamois skin 
or felt between the jaws of the vise and the 
spring to prevent bruising or scratching the 
polished surface of the latter. Turn up the vise 
gently until the hammer feels loose. Now press 
upon the sear-spring and let down the hammer. 
The mainspring is now entirely loose, and may be 
lifted out with the vise. This ends the complication 




196 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

of the lock ; it is now only a plain machine, with 
parts held into position by screws, which may be 
removed one at a time until every piece has been 
taken from the plate. 

In taking down a lock the beginner should work 
slowly and cautiously, thinking in every case before 
acting. His screwdriver should be pressed well- 
down in the notch of every screw to prevent dam¬ 
age to the head, and if he apprehends the slightest 
danger of getting ‘ ‘ things mixed, ” he should lay 
each screw and its piece in different places upon his 
bench. Of course, there will be no such necessity 
after a few locks have been taken down, but such a 
necessity might exist at the very beginning; at least 
there is no harm to grow out of taking what is 
known to be the safe side in every case. 

The directions given for taking down, refer to the 
common lock, while locks of some of the modern 
guns will be made on plans quite different. But the 
principle will be the same, and hence there is no 
reasonable demand for going into further detail. 
The first object will be to get control of the main¬ 
spring so that it can be lifted out with ease. This 
attained, and all the rest of the work is easy 
enough. 

To Clean and Oil the Loch .—Botches usually wipe 
the old oil and dirt from the parts with a rag, put 
on fresh oil, and then put the lock together again. 
This is a poor way, for a portion of the old gummy 
oil will be left to combine with the new, thus soon 
making it about as bad as the old. Every part 


ON GUN LOCKS. 


197 


should be thoroughly cleansed and dried before any 
new oil is used. First wipe the dirt and old oil off 
as thoroughly as possible with a piece of cloth or 
felt, and then rub it over with powdered chalk or 
Spanish whiting. Next brush off and rub with a 
stiff brush such as is used by jewelers or watch¬ 
makers. This will remove all the old oil, after which 
the new oil may be applied. 

Cases may turn up in which the lock has been 
long neglected, and the oil and dirt have gummed 
together so badly as not to admit of wiping off. In 
such cases the parts should be soaked for a short 
time in kerosene or in benzine, which is still better. 
This will dissolve the gum and render it easy of re¬ 
moval. 

In oiling, only oil enough should be applied to 
lubricate the parts—there is much more danger of 
getting on too much oil than too little. It should 
be put on with a stubbed camel’s hair brush or pen¬ 
cil, as the painters call it, and with extreme light¬ 
ness. And there is but one kind of oil fit to be used 
on a lock, the very best “watchmaker’s oil” obtain¬ 
able. Such an oil is comparatively costly, but a 
single bottle, costing 25 cents, will oil hundreds of 
locks, hence the cost is really not entitled to consid¬ 
eration, on account of its being so decidedly superior 
to any other oil in use. 

How to Put up a Lock.—In taking down the lock 
the last thing removed was the sear-spring, per¬ 
haps—it is most convenient to make that the last 
thing. Now, in putting up the lock, that is the first 


198 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


part to claim our attention. Screw the sear-spring 
into position, then the sear ; next put in the tumb¬ 
ler, and then put on the bridle. Having this all 
right, screw on the hammer and let it down. Then 
take the mainspring, clamped as it was at the tak¬ 
ing down, hook it on to the swivel, and bring it up 
until the little steady-pin is in its hole in the plate. 
Now unscrew the vise and the lock is ready for 
work. 

It will be necessary to always handle the main¬ 
spring with care. It is the first thing to come off in 
taking down, and the last to go on in putting up the 
lock ; and the vise or clamp must be turned upon it 
only just enough to bring it loose, and no more. If 
more, it may be damaged, possibly broken. 

Handling the parts of a lock with chamois skin or 
paper, is a good idea, while brushing off the chalk 
and rubbing them clean with the brush, and it is 
also a good idea not to touch them with the naked 
fingers afterwards. Few gunsmiths would be in¬ 
clined to take this precaution, but it is worthy of 
consideration if one desires to be ranked among the 
very best and most careful of workmen; as handling 
with the naked fingers is apt to leave the parts in 
such a condition as will cause them to eventually 
rust, slightly at least. 


CHAPTER XXIII. 


ON FITTING GUN HAMMERS. 

To Fit a Hammer on a Tumbler .—To file the hole 
in a gun-hammer so that it will rest firmly and 
evenly upon the squared end of the tumbler, has 
tested the skill and patience of nearly every gun¬ 
smith. The usual practice is to drill a hole nearly 
the diameter of the square of the tumbler, then file 
this hole until it fits the square, and unless skill and 
patience are brought into requisition, and a nice fit 
be the result, the hammer soon works loose, then 
needs refitting. The remedy then generally is, re* 
move the hammer from the tumbler and close the 
hole a little by cutting around the squared opening, 
a little distance back from the edge, with a sharp 
cold chisel, thus throwing some of the metal inward, 
closing the hole a trifle. The hammer is then put 
upon the tumbler, and if it be a little tight is driven 
to place with a hammer. After some usage it be¬ 
comes loose again, and has to be again refitted. 

It is evident that unless what might be called a 
“ perfect fit ” be made, that the sudden arrest of the 
hammer upon the tube or cone, as it descends by 
force of the mainspring, will cause some slight dis¬ 
placement of metal where the hammer and tumbler 
come in juxtaposition. A repetition of these sudden 


200 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


arrests increases the displacement, and often there 
is considerable looseness of the parts. 

The Drift for Squaring the Hole .—The remedy for 
this is very simple, and can be performed with but 
little labor. After the hole in the hammer is drilled 
introduce the end of a square drift, and drive it 
steadily through with blows of a hammer. The 
drift will cut a clean hole, the exact counterpart of 
its form, and this hole will need no finishing, if the 
drift be properly made to insure its correctness as to 
being smooth and true. Bear in mind that while 
driving the drift, the work must rest evenly and 



Figure 48. 


solidly upon some firm support, but in such a way 
that the tool will easily pass through. The drift is 
shown in Fig. 48. In construction it is a rod of steel 
filed or so shaped that its tranverse section is of the 
precise form that the hole is to be made, and too 
great care cannot be taken to insure its being as cor¬ 
rect as possible. The entering end of the tool should 
be made round, and almost fill the hole as drilled in 
the hammer, and it should increase gradually in size 
until it arrives at the full proportions and then grad¬ 
ually decrease to the upper end, so that it will read¬ 
ily pass through the opening made by the larger 
portion. On the sides of this tool are cut teeth that 
extend around it, being continued from side to side 




ON FITTING GUN HAMMERS. 


201 


after the manner of a screw thread upon a bolt. It 
will be observed by reference to the cut that the 
teeth commence on each side of the square and re¬ 
semble a four-threaded screw, with saw-shaped 
teeth, made upon a square rod. A file is the most 
ready tool to cut these teeth. Forge the steel care¬ 
fully, temper equally, and do not leave too hard. 
When properly made it will last for an untold 
amount of work. 

The number of cuts or teeth to the inch may be 
about ten. There must be sufficient depth between 
the teeth to receive the cuttings, and they must be 
made strong enough to withstand the hammer 
blows. In driving use oil on the teeth, and be care¬ 
ful to keep it upright, so as to form a hole that will 
enable the gun-hammer to stand properly on the 
tumbler. 

If it be feared that there will be a variation of the 
hole from the “square,” turn the drift a quarter 
turn after the first driving and drive again ; then 
turn another quarter and drive the third time, and 
so on of the fourth. 

The drift may be made of almost any shape, and 
will produce holes of irregular form as readily as 
square ones. Another example is the mortice in the 
loop attached under gun-barrels, through which the 
bolt passes, and also the same size mortice or slot in 
escutcheons, which are let into the stock, through 
which the same bolt passes. The holes in small 
solid wrenches to receive square or six-sided nuts 
can be readily and easily made in the same manner. 


202 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

A Tool for Fitting Hammers to Gun Locks .—The 
usual practice in fitting hammers to gun locks is to 
measure with the dividers the distance from the 
centre of the tumbler, where it projects beyond the 
lock-plate, to the centre of the tube or cone, and so 
get the length of the hammer ; then drill the hole in 

the hammer, square this 
hole by the rule of “ guess, ” 
and file until it fits upon 
the square of the tumbler. 

A simple tool can be 
made by any gunsmith, 
that will greatly facilitate 
his operations in fitting 
hammers. The accompa¬ 
nying cut (Fig. 49) shows 
this tool in full size. It is 
made of iron or steel, one- 
eighth of an inch thick. 
The body, A, of the tool is 
one-half inch wide, and has 
a slot, a, three-sixteenths 
of an inch wide and one 
inch long. The curved slot, 
and embraces about one- 
fourth of a circle. The nose-piece, B, is shaped 
like the top portion of a hammer, and is held to 
the body, A, by a screw, c, and to insure its mov¬ 
ing in a line, and being held properly in the slot, a, 
there is a small stud, d , that fills the slot. In the 
lower curved portion of the body, which is seven- 



ON FITTING GUN HAMMERS. 


203 


eighths of an inch in diameter, there is a five-eighths 
hole, which receives the round portion of the piece, 
C. This piece has an extension, as shown by the 
dotted lines, and is held to A by a screw, e. The 
square hole in this piece is intended to fit the square 
of the tumbler of the lock. The thickness of C, at 
the round part where it enters A, is the thickness of 
both A and B. There is a shoulder of the thickness 
of B, and of the size of the body of the tool at the 
lower end, being of the same diameter, so that the 
back surfaces of B and C are of the same thickness. 
The front surface of C is flush with A. 

To use the tool, put the square of the lock tumbler 
in the square hole of C, and put the tumbler screw 
in place. Loosen the screw, e, and turn the piece, 
C, until the nose of B will rest pretty firmly on the 
gun-tube; then turn the screw to hold it in place. 
Loosen the screw, c, that holds B in place, and move 
this piece up or down until the centre of the nose 
rests squarely on the tube ; then confine it in place 
by turning up the screw, c. This is now an exact 
pattern, giving the length, shape of the hammer, 
and also a guide to form the square where it fits the 
tumbler. 

It must be observed that the screws and the stud, 
d , ought to fill the slots on the shoulder of the piece, 
C, a good fit, so that it will turn evenly and properly 
in the hole of A. The screws may be the same that 
are used for tumbler screws for army muskets. 
These screws are hardened, and, as they have large 
flat heads, they answer for this purpose very well. 


204 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

The part, C, can be made of two pieces of the 
same thickness as the other parts. Finish them 
separately, except the square hole, and then solder 
or rivet them together. The square hole is best fin¬ 
ished up when the two parts are fastened together. 


CHAPTER XXIV. 


ON NIPPLES OR CONES. 

The terms nipple, cone and tube are applied in 
rather an indiscriminate manner to that portion of a 
gun breech on which the copper cap containing the 
fulminate designed for firing the arm is placed. To 
be good and serviceable, the nipple should be made 
of steel, and carefully tempered; but many are 
made of a low grade of steel, of common iron, and 
even malleable iron has been used, and case-hardened 
to render them tit for use. 

Forms of Nipples .—There are as many forms of 
nipples as there are qualities, and they may be di- 



Figure 50. Figure 51. Figure 52. 


vided into classes, as the musket nipple (called 
“cone” by the armory operatives), the American, 
English, and German. The German have coarser 
threads than the American. The English musket 
nipple has a thread or screw of 18 threads per inch ; 
it has a flat top, and has a hole of one taper, being 













206 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

large at the bottom and smaller at the top. The 
American musket tube has a screw of 24 threads to 
the inch, has a vent resembling two inverted cones, 
meeting with a small opening near the centre. The 
top of the nipple, consequently, resembles a narrow 
circular ring. Fig. 50 shows the English nipple, 
and Fig. 51 the American ; Fig. 52 the different 
forms of vents. 

Nipples for Breech-loading Arms. —For breech- 
loading arms, using loose powder and ball, the nip¬ 
ple is made similar to the American, but the vent is 
made quite large at the top, and decreases like an 
inverted cone, and terminates in a small opening a 
little larger than a common pin. In this nipple the 
fire from the cap is concentrated and caused to rush 
with some force through the small aperture, the 
same as heat is concentrated in a single point by 
using a blow-pipe for that purpose. The object is to 
burn through the material of which the cartridge is 
composed. 

Nipples with Flat Tops .—The use of a nipple with 
a broad, flat top requires a vigorous mainspring, 
and then quite a volume of the detonating flame 
escapes outside the nipple and between it and the 
cap. The small portion that passes down the tube 
may be so impeded, if the nipple be foul or rusty, as 
to cause the gun to hang fire, and even to miss fire. 
Should the mainspring be too weak, the cap will 
come in contact with the broad surface of the nipple, 
forcing the priming of the cap from its position, and 
leaving it unexploded. Often the cap is made to 


ON NIPPLES OR CONES. 


207 


bear the blame, when the fault is due entirely to the 
formation of the top of the nipple. 

The American Musket Nipple .—The American 
musket nipple has a thin edge and a wide opening 
at the top, so as to allow the flame to readily en¬ 
ter, the thin edge enabling the cap to be very readily 
exploded, even with the blow from a weak main¬ 
spring. In this form of nipple the detonating pow 
der is ignited at the edge, and being forced to ente* 
the wide opening, is compelled to pass down the 
vent to the powder. If there be any little dirt or 
obstruction, it is generally forced along with the 
fire, and the ignition of the powder is certain, and 
miss-fires are few. 

When nipples are made with the small opening of 
the vent at the bottom, coarse-grain gunpowder can 
be used, as it is not necessary that the grains need 
to be admitted to the nipple. This is the case as re¬ 
gards military arms fitted with nipples. The pow¬ 
der is too coarse to be received in the nipple when 
freed from the cartridge and placed uncovered in 
the gun breech. 

It has been claimed by some that gunpowder can 
be glazed too smooth to readily take fire, and this is 
a source of miss-fires. Also that the flame from the 
detonating powder will form a mass of condensed 
air around itself, preventing contact with the pow¬ 
der until the heat is expended. This was especially 
thought to be the fact when there was a volume of 
air between the powder and the end of the nipple. 
These two theories are presented for what they may 
be worth. 


208 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


Nipples used in Sporting Guns .—Of nipples used 
in sporting guns there may be found the broad top, 
the countersunk top, the taper bored, the counter¬ 
sunk taper, the reverse taper, double reversed, etc., 
etc. They are generally put up with the screw por¬ 
tion made in assorted sizes. The threads also vary, 
being as coarse as 26 to the inch, and as tine as 32 
threads per inch. 

Preparing Nipples for Guns .—It is well for the 
gunsmith to test the nipples with a fine tile to ascer¬ 
tain their hardness before inserting them in guns. 
If too soft, they will be returned on his hands. If 
there is also a liability of the gun-hammer battering 
the top where it strikes, which soon is so broad as to 
cause miss-fires. If too hard, they are liable to break 
short off at the square, and the screw portion left in 
the gun is difficult to remove. Sometimes so much 
so that it is necessary to unbreech the gun, remove 
the patent breech and heat it to soften the portion 
of broken nipple so that it can be drilled out. In 
drilling there is a risk of injury to the thread of the 
nipple seat. The heating necessitates labor to re¬ 
finish the part and it is to be again case hardened 
before screwing into the barrel. If found too hard, 
nipples can be drawn to a better temper by holding 
the top portion in a pair of pliers in exposing the 
bottom part to the flame of an alcohol lamp. If 
they be too soft, enclose in a short piece of gas pipe, 
pack them well with bone-dust, stop close the ends 
of the pipe, and heat to a red, letting them remain 
to for fifteen or twenty minutes and then open the 


ON NIPPLES OR CONES. 


209 


end of the pipe to let the contents fall into water. 
They can be drawn to temper to suit. They may 
also be heated hot, rolled in prussiate of potash or 
cyanide of potassium, again heated, and thrown into 
water. As cyanide of potassium is a deadly poison, 
be very careful how it is used and where it is kept. 
Do not breathe the flames when put on hot iron, and 
do not let it come in contact with sores or raw places 
on the hands. 

Remedy for Bad Nipples .—In case guns come in 
to be repaired because they will “not snap a cap,” 
see if a weak mainspring be not one cause, and a 
nipple with broad top, another. For the latter evil, 
ream or counter sink it so as to have a thin cup like 
edge. See also if the cup of the hammer strikes prop¬ 
erly on the nipple, and that it be not too much cup¬ 
ped by long usage in striking. In this case, the 
cup may be filled by drilling in and inserting a bit 
of iron or steel to fill it and then re-harden. 

Pistol Nipples .—Pistol nipples, Colt’s for instance, 
have a different thread from gun nipples. The thread 
used in Colt’s revolver nipples is 40 to the inch. 
But one size is employed—nipples are sometimes pro¬ 
vided with a thin, round washer of copper, which is 
put on at the shoulder where the thread terminates. 
This shields that part of the seat where it is placed 
from rust, and some claim that it acts as a sort of 
cushion to deaden the blow of the hammer, thus 
preserving the nipple from breakage. 

Plugs for Nipples .—Plugs can be made from a rod 
of iron of suitable size that is sound and free from 


210 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


flaws. The size of the part that screws into the bar¬ 
rel is about three-eighths of an inch, and the thread 
is twenty to the inch. This is the size and thread 
generally used. There may be exceptions that will 
require a different size and a different thread, but, 
if possible, let the sizes given govern the work. The 
end on which the screw is to be cut can be turned in 
the lathe, cut down with a hollow mill in the method 
given for making breech pins, or it can even be filed 
to shape in absence of any other way to make it. 



Figure 53. 


Before cutting the plug to the length where the nip¬ 
ple is to be seated, screw it into the barrel, mark the 
place for the nipple which can be found by letting 
down the hammer of the lock, then remove drill and 
fit the nipple. Cut off all that is not required be¬ 
yond the nipple and screw into place, the nipple 
forming a shoulder on which to rest the wrench in 
screwing it home. The finished plug is shown in 
Fig. 53. 

It is best to remove the barrel from the stock in 
screwing in the plug. With an improper wrench, 
it often happens that a nipple w T ill be broken off at 
the square if it be very hard, and then it is difficult 
















ON NIPPLES OR CONES. 


211 


to remove. To obviate till danger of this, make a 
wrench with a handle at each end, and in the middle 
have a hole that will fit the plug, and then file an 
opening so that it will just fit over the nipple. It 
should fit close to the nipple at the square, and be 
free so as not to have a bearing at the end of the 
nipple where the cap is put on. 

Plugs are sometimes left bright, but if blued it 
improves their appearance and there is less tendency 
to rust. If desired to be very durable, case-harden 
them. The better polish that can be made on them 
will make a better blue or case-hardened surface. 

Many of the cheap plugs in market are nothing 
but cast malleable iron. The best material of which 
to make them is decarbonized steel, or what is known 
as “soft steel.” It comes in smooth round rods and 
is homogeneous and easy to work. Cold-rolled iron 
rod makes very good plugs. The diameter may be 
half-inch or nine-sixteenths, the latter size being 
most preferable. With a three-eighth size screw 
the half-inch rod gives a one-sixteenth shoulder, 
which must fit tight to the barrel. If not fitted 
tight, the gas from the powder when the gun is 
fired will soon cause a leak which is difficult to 
remedy. In some localities the name plug is dis¬ 
carded and the term ‘‘cylinder ” adopted. 


CHAPTER XXY. 


MAINSPRINGS. 

Mainsprings .—Mainsprings are made for right 
and left side locks, and are known as right and left. 
Very few gunsmiths make these springs, as they are 
kept in stock and can be purchased of the dealers at 
any time. Fig. 51 is called the forward or side- 
action hook spring; Fig. 55 the forward or side-action 
swivel, and are used in bar locks. 

Fig. 56 is the back-action mainspring, such as used 
in cheap made locks. These springs are also made 



Figure 54. 


with Bear spring combined. Fig. 57 is swivel back- 
action with sear spring combined. 

Sear Springs .—Sear springs are made for right 
and left hand locks. The side-action or bar-lock 
springs are shown in Fig. 58, and the back-action 
lock springs in Fig. 59. In one kind of back-action 
lock there is used a bent spring similar to the bar- 
lock spring which is shown in Fig. 60. It will be 
observed that the lower branch of this spring is 



MAINSPRINGS. 


213 


longer than that which is used in the bar or side- 
action locks. 

How to Forge Mainsprings .—If the gunsmith de¬ 
sires to forge his own mainsprings he must select 
a good quality of spring steel, as cast steel is gen- 



Figure 55. 


erally too quick or fiery for springs that have as 
severe a duty to perform as a mainspring. Get the 
steel of the same thickness as the mainspring and 
of a width equal to the spring and the pivot that 
goes through the lock plate. 

Draw the spring out carefully over a fire that has 
been burned enough to free it from sulphur, if bitu- 



Figure 56 


minous coal be used, and be very careful not to over¬ 
heat the metal. Form to shape with any tools or 
means that may be at hand. 






214 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


For straight springs, as some kinds of pistol and 
gun-lock springs, procure steel of the thickness and 
width of the spring at the widest and thickest end, 
and draw down to the requisite width and thickness 
of the smallest end. 

How to Temper Mainsprings .—If it be a single 
spring that is to be tempered, heat it carefully or 



Figure 57. 


evenly in a fire that is well burned to free it from 
sulphur, or preferably in a charcoal fire, and when 
at a light-red heat, harden by plunging it in any 
animal oil. An iron pan may be used to contain the 



Figure 58. 


oil, and any refuse or poor oil that may collect may 
be used. Lard oil is good, but if oil be wanting, 
use common lard or even tallow. If hard, melt be¬ 
fore using. 

To temper the spring, remove from the oil, and 
hold it all dripping with the oil over a clear fire un- 






MAINSPRINGS. 


215 


til the oil takes fire and blazes off. It is best to dip 
it in the oil and blaze off the second time. 

If there are a number of springs enclose them in 
a piece of gas pipe to heat them, and when hot, turn 
them into the oil. To temper, remove them, put 



Figure 59. 


them in an old wrought-iron frying pan, add a little 
oil, heat the pan over the fire, skaking it in the 
meantime, until the oil takes fire and blazes off. 
Let the work cool without putting it in water or oil. 

Cheap Mainsprings for Revolvers .—Make springs 
for cheap revolvers from strips of sheet steel. Cut 
the springs so that the length of the spring will be 



Figure 60. 


lengthwise of the sheet from which it is cut, or, in 
other words, the grain of the steel must not be 
across the spring, but lengthwise with it. 

When fitted, harden in oil and blaze off in an old 
sheet-iron pan; an old frying pan being very good 
for the purpose, and literally fry them in the oil. If 
heavy, blaze two or three times. Agitate well in 
the pan during the blazing process. 

An old saw blade, one that is quite thin, when cut 




216 


THE GUNSMITH'S MANUAL. 


up in strips will make springs for cheap work. If 
too hard temper, it cannot very well be used until 
the temper be drawn to suit. They can be bent into 
form with a strong pair of pliers. By warming the 
strips over a fire they can be readily bent into shape. 
Old table knife blades, sometimes called case-knife 
blades, that are well tempered, have been employed, 
the blades being cut lengthwise with a pair of hand 
shears. 

Coiling Wire for Springs, ckc.—There are several 
methods of coiling wire for springs. The most sim¬ 
ple is to clamp a rod in the vise and wind the wire 
around it by hand, but this is a very unsatisfactory 
method and it is rather difficult to wind the wire 
evenly. Another method is to revolve a rod in the 
lathe and let the wire coil upon it as the lathe is 
turned. To insure equal space between the coils, a 
piece of metal is held “ behind” the wire, and as 
this piece of metal bears against, or in advance of 
the coil just made, it produces an even spring. A 
hook made of a piece of wire or a piece of metal 
with one end formed into a hook and clasping the 
rod on which the wire is moved is an excellent way 
to form an even spring. Two, or even three or 
more pieces of wire may be wound at one time, and 
this will insure springs of even space. 

Another way in which a spring of even coil can 
be made, is to hold a bolt that has a good thread, 
upright in the vise and confine the wire by clamp¬ 
ing it to the bolt, then wind the wire, letting it fol¬ 
low the thread of the bolt. When enough is wound, 


MAINSPRINGS. 


217 


remove and release the spring by “ screwing the 
bolt out of it,” the same as if holding a nut fast in 
the hand and turning the bolt out of it. Springs of 
almost any coil, but not of “ almost any diameter,” 
can be made in this way. 

In the absence of a lathe a wire winding tool may 
be made by bending a rod into the form of a crank 
and insert, the long end through a piece of hard 
wood, as shown in Fig. 61 . This can be held in the 
vise to use, or fastened by two or three screws to 



the bench or any convenient place. A slot is made 
in the end of the part that projects through the 
wood, and in this slot the end of the wire is placed 
and is wound toward the crank. Of coarse the 
spring can be made no longer than this projecting 
end. To make different sized springs different sized 
rods must be used, and holes to fit must be made 
through the piece of wood. 























































218 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


To insure even space between the coils, a strip of 
thin steel may be fastened by one or two screws at 
or near the bottom of the piece of wood, and a hole 
is made near the top of the winding rod to pass 
through. A space is cut out, as shown in the cut, 
to admit of the wire being removed. In winding 
the upper end the steel strip is held away from the 
wood by its spring, or by a wooden wedge, and the 
w T ire must be held close to the wood by the hand or 
by a piece of wire formed as a sort of staple. To 
wind a very long spring, or a spring longer than the 
rod, a clamp may coniine the wire to the rod, and 
when the spring has been wound to its length, re¬ 
move the clamp, draw back the winding rod, fix the 
clamp close to the outer end and begin to wind again 
without cutting the coil, push it off the end of the 
rod as it is filled each time. As all wire, like 
hard drawn brass or steel wire, will “ spring open” 
after being coiled, the rod must be made much 
smaller than the spring to be formed. Different sized 
holes may be made in the same block of wood to re¬ 
ceive different sized winding rods over. 

Hooks or eyes on the ends of the rods can be read¬ 
ily made in like manner. When the rod is too large 
to admit of ready bending to form the crank to turn 
it with, a crank of cast-iron can be riveted upon it. 

If the mechanic wishes to make a tool of this 
kind, that will be more serviceable and at the same 
time “look like something,” he can procure a cast¬ 
ing similar to the movable head of a lathe, and put 
in the hole where the spindle is placed a similar 


MAINSPRINGS. 


219 


spindle, but with the end where the wire is to be 
wound large enough to form a shoulder to keep it in 
place, and on the other end put a wheel eight or ten 
inches in diameter, with a handle to turn it with. 
The end where the shoulder is may be made with a 
screw to fit the lathe chuck or with a hole to receive 
the lathe tools, and they can be held there the same 
as holding them in the lathe chuck. The spindles 
to wind the wire may be inserted in the hole and 
held in place by the set-screw. The tool may be 
fastened to the bench by a rod screwed into the base, 
or held by a nut under the bench. 

This tool will be found to be a very ready one with 
which to work out bullet moulds. The cherry being 
held the same as a rod. It can also be used to free 
the muzzle or breech of barrels, using the wooden 
rods covered with emery, as described in Chapter 
XVI. It is also useful for reaming holes and can 
be used for drilling in case of an emergency. As a 
tool for holding taps to tap the thread in holes it has 
no equal—the work being held in the left hand and 
the wheel turned with the right hand. 


> 


CHAPTER XXVI. 


ON RODS. 

How to Make Ramrods .—Ramrods are of two 
forms, the straight rod used for rifles, and the 
tapered rod used for shot guns. The wood that is 
most in use is hickory, which is split and then 
turned into shape. The other woods used are ebony, 
redwood, snake wood, rosewood, etc. Rifle rods are 
generally made of sizes from three-sixteenths inch 
to half-inch diameter. Shot gun rods from one-half 
inch to three-quarters inch in diameter. The meas¬ 
urement of the shot gun rods is at the largest 
diameter. 

One way of making rods for rifles is very similar 
to that in which screws are made. A hollow tool is 
used with cutting lips, three are enough, and the rod 
is passed through this tool, the tool being turned 
very rapidly during the cutting. The operation may 
be reversed and the wood being rotated while the 
tool is held in the hand and is passed along as it 
cuts. 

A better kind of tool is made like a wheel about 
two inches in diameter, and three-quarters of an inch 
thick. A hole of the size of the rod is made through 
the diametrical centre, and one side of the circumfer¬ 
ence is cut away so that a tool partaking of the 
nature of the gouge and finishing chisel is so held by 


ON RODS. 


221 


a screw, that the gouge portion advances and roughs 
out the rod, while the chisel shaped part following 
it shaves the roughness and leaves the work smooth 
and nice. The hole through the tool must be of the 
size the rod is to be made, and the cutting tool set 
so as to allow the work to pass through the hole 
easily. Only one size rod can be made with this tool, 
and different sizes must be made for different sized 
rods ; except the cutter which must be of steel, it 
can be made of cast iron. 

To make rods by hand, the wood is split out as 
straight as can be and then rough shaved into form 
with a drawing knife. It is then planed square with 
a carpenter’s plane and then the square corners are 
taken off, leaving the rod of octagon form. A few 
strokes of the plane will then remove these corners 
and it will be nearly round. A new file and sand¬ 
paper will finish it true and even. After the rod has 
been planed square, the best way to hold it for re¬ 
moving the corners and make it octagon form is to 
have a V groove made in a piece of hard wood of the 
length of the rod in which to lay it. Otherwise, it 
will be very difficult to hold while using the 
plane. 

Round straight rods can be finished with a tool 
like a moulding plane, and if this tool be of the 
proper form, and the work be turned around two or 
three times during the operation, a good rod can be 
made very expeditiously. 

When 'wood is cross-grained it cannot be planed 
very well and must be finished with a file and rasp. 


222 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

To hold the rod while being worked, get a piece of 
hard wood about three-quarters of an inch thick and 
about four inches wide ; in one edge have a groove 
made a quarter inch wide and three-eighths deep. 
Rest the rod in this groove, holding it at one end 
with a hand vise so as to turn it while filing, and 
reduce first with the rasp and then finish with a file. 
To finish easily with sand-paper, wrap the sand-paper 
around a piece of wood shaped like a file, and use as 
if filing. 

Pieces of broken window glass may also be used 
to advantage in reducing rods, and then finish with 
fine sand-paper. 

How to make a Wiping Rod .—Take any straight 
rod, a ramrod for instance, but be sure that the 



Figure 62. 


wood be strong and tough, and cut one end like the 
form shown in Fig. 62. By folding a rag over the 
end, doubling it so as to fill the bore of the gun, it 
will be found that it can be used in muzzle-loading 
guns without pulling off when the rod is being with¬ 
drawn. The rounded end prevents the end of the 
rod being pushed through the cloth, and the deep 
notch receives the folded sides so that it presents no 
inequalities to the bore of the gun. The square 
shoulder prevents its being pulled from place on 
being withdrawn from the gun. 





ON RODS. 


223 


An iron rod may be made in the same way, but a 
rod made of good hickory wood has no equal. 

A wiping rod may be made of an iron rod having 
a slot or mortice cut through one end, and through 
this a rag is drawn. It may be used in breech-load¬ 
ing guns where it can be pushed in at one end and 
drawn out at the other, but in a muzzle loading gun 
it cannot well be withdrawn on account of the rag 
being folded upon itself in attempting to with¬ 
draw it. 

If a wiping rag be j)ut in a gun and cannot be 
withdrawn, it may be sometimes relieved so as to be 
withdrawn by turning a little warm water down 
the barrel so as to saturate and soften the rag. 

Wiping brushes should not be thrust down the 
bore of a muzzle-loader as they cannot be readily 
withdrawn, and in instances where they are of larger 
diameter than the bore, the gun must be unbreeched 
to have the brush taken out. These brush wipers 
are very nice for that class of breech-loaders where 
they can be inserted at one end and withdra wn from 
the other. In using them in this class of guns, insert 
at the breech and remove from the muzzle, and then 
there will be no dirt or debris thrown among the 
breech mechanism. 


CHAPTEE XXVII. 


ON BULLET MOULDS. 

Joints for Bullet Moulds .—Simple as it may seem, 
the joint of bullet moulds, unless produced by the 
manufacturer, who has ample tools at his com¬ 
mand, is not often well done. The want of the 
proper knowledge how “to lay out” such a joint 
may be the excuse for ill-fitting work. Yet it is 
easy enough, only “know how.” 

By reference to the cut, Fig. 63, the joint and one 
side of the body of a bullet mould, it will be ob¬ 



served that the line A is the surface where the two 
halves abut or come together. The line B is drawn 
at right angles to this and in the diametrical centre 
of the round projection that is to form the joint. 
At the point of intersection of these two lines, or in 
other words where these two lines cross each other, 
make an indent with a sharp-pointed prick-punch, 
and there drill a hole of the size that the rivet is to 
be made. 






ON BULLET MOULDS. 


225 


Fig. 64 shows the finished joint ready to receive 
its mate and be rivetted together. After the hole 
for the rivet is made, a tool must be used to 
“ sweep” or cut down the surface at C, and also 
leave a sharp and smooth shoulder as shown at D. 

To make this tool, select a piece of steel, centre it 
in the lathe, and turn one end—say an inch or so— 



of the same size that the joint is to be. In this 
end drill a hole lengthwise, but exactly in the cen¬ 
tre, of the same size that the rivet is to be. Cut 
teeth on this end, and temper as any tool for cutting 
metals. Insert a steel pin in the hole, leaving it 



Figure 65. 


projecting half an inch or more, and the tool is 
ready for use. The cutting end of the tool is shown 
in Fig. 65. Of course the other end must he fitted 
to the lathe chuck or a bit-stock in order to use it. 















226 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


Insert the projecting end of the pin in the hole A, 
drilled for the joint, and by means of the lathe or 
bit-stock, cut down each half of the mould to about 
half of its thickness. The outer circle or cut of the 
tool will be a guide to which to file the circle of the 
joint. If the cutting end of the tool be made a little 
convex it will form the surface of the joint a little 
hollowing, and a better fit will be the result. 

Countersink the outer ends of the hole, insert the 
rivet, and rivet them together. The perfection of 
the joint can be ascertained by opening and closing 
the mould a few times, removing the surface where 
the rubbing is apparent, with a fine-cut file. 

If the surfaces of the two halves at B, Fig. 64, do 
not exactly come together, and the material be brass 
or malleable iron, a few blows with a hammer will in¬ 
sure close contact. It may be necessary to say that 
the surface at B must first be made true and square, 
so that the two halves will fit closely, and then “lay 
out” the joint from this surface. 

If there be many bullet moulds to make the cir¬ 
cle of, the joints can be made by means of a cutter 
revolving in the lathe. Make this cutter about two 
and a half inches in diameter and half an inch 
thick. Cut teeth in the sides as well as on the cir¬ 
cumference. Fit it in a spindle so it will revolve. 
After the joint is drilled fit it so as to turn on a pin 
fixed in a piece of iron that is held at one side of the 
cutter. By feeding the mould up to the cutter the 
surface or shoulder is cut where the two portions of 
the joint come in contact when opened. By turning 


ON BULLET MOULDS. 


227 


the mould slowly around a portion of the circle is 
cut, say about one-half. Remove the mould from the 
pin, invert it, and the remainder of the circle can 
be cut; the whole “round” and the abutting sur- 



Figure 66. 


faces being produced at two cuts; a little smoothing 
up with a file being necessary to finish it. This 
operation and the cutting is shown in Fig. 66. 

How to Make a Ball Cherry .—The term “ cherry,” 
as applied to the tool used to make the mould for 
spherical balls or bullets, was no doubt borrowed 
from the fruit of the same name—in fact the fruit 
and tool are very similar in form and size. To any 
one not conversant with the process of producing a 
sphere in metal it seems a very difficult operation, 
but nevertheless it is very simple, and only requires 
a little knowledge and experience to make a cherry 
to fit any bore of gun. This is the rule governing 






































228 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


the operation: A rotating body is passed through a 
properly-shaped circular aperture in a flat steel die 
that is held with its upper or cutting in the same 
plane as the axial line of the body rotating. That’s 
all. 

Now, to make application of the rule. Suppose 
we have a rifle of a certain bore to which is to be 
fitted a round ball. First, take a piece of steel, we 
will say about one-quarter of an inch thick, about 
one inch wide and about six or eight inches long. 
An old file of good quality, with the temper drawn 
and the teeth ground away, may answer the pur¬ 
pose. It should be annealed as soft as possible. 



With a drill make a hole near one end, but a little 
less in size than the bullet to be produced. With a 
taper half-round reamer cut out the hole until that 
side of it which is to be the upper or cutting edge is 
exactly the size of the bullet desired. 

The advantage of using this taper half-round 
reamer is the hole is made perfectly round, and at 
the same time the taper of the reamer gives a bevel 
to the hole that forms a good, strong and effective 
cutting edge. With a file cut out a portion of the tool 
of a Y shape,bevelling the edges the same as the hole 




ON BULLET MOULDS. 


229 


as shown in Fig. 67. This V may be either cut 
on the end, a side of the tool, as shown, but in 
use it is preferred to be cut on the side, as then, if 
necessary, the hand can find a hold on that end to 
assist it in operating. When done, temper for use. 
For the cherry, turn a piece of steel in the lathe to 
fit a chuck. Half-inch octagon is perhaps the best 
size of steel from which to make cherries of less 
diameter than half-inch, and the length about six 
inches. The end on which the cherry is to be made 
is roughly fashioned into a ball, leaving the end 
where the centre supports it to be removed by the 
lathe tool or by filing. 

When fitted so that the rough blank will be held 
firmly in the chuck, run the lathe at moderate speed, 



Figuhe 68. 


set the T rest so that the steel die can be held on it 
about level with the under side of the rotating 
blank. On the rest lay the die, and press the open¬ 
ing so as to receive the rough sphere, applying oil 
and not pressing too hard. Let it gradually scrape 
its way through the circular aperture, the V-shaped 
opening in the side receiving the stem to which 
the cherry is attached. In Fig. 68 is shown the fin¬ 
ished blank after being passed through the die. If 
it be preferred the die may be held in the hands and 
not supported on the T rest. Take care to supply 



230 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


plenty of oil to the work, as this will prevent 
scratching or tearing the cherry while being formed. 
It is well to make two of these holes, one at each 
end of the piece of steel, roughing the blank with 
the first, which is a little larger than the one used 
to finish the cherry of the exact size. When this 
tool gets dull grind on the upper or cutting edge, but 
not too much, as it will enlarge the hole, and the re¬ 
sult will be to make a larger cherry. 

To form these blanks into cutting tools, a copy 
can be taken from the cherries as sold to the trade. 



Bear in mind to leave the grooves deep enough to 
receive the metal cut from the blank mould when in 
operation. 

It will be observed that the cherries as purchased 
(Fig. 69) do not have their cutting edges terminate 
in that portion of the mould, but usually on one 
side. This is done to insure a perfectly spherical 
form by having a cutting side operating at the bot¬ 
tom of the hole while it is being formed. It is 
somewhat difficult to make this form of cutting 
edge, and some patience and care must be exercised 
or the blank may be spoiled. 

Every mechanic knows how nice and rapidly a 
well-made drill will cut. Suppose this form of cut¬ 
ting edge be applied to the bullet cherry. It is no 










ON BULLET MOULDS. 


231 


matter if this cherry be round or of conical form. 
Fill two cutting edges like a drill on opposite sides 
of the blank from the shank to the end of the 
cherry. It is evident that here the two rounded 
portions that are left on each side of the cutting 
edges to be removed that the tool is nothing more 



Figure 70. 


nor less than a peculiar shaped drill or reamer that 
might form an internal sphere. But as this form 
could not well be applied between the sides of blank 
bullet moulds, and as the full rounded sides would 
not permit of these edges cutting, then form the 
rounded surfaces into similar cutting edges like the 
two first made, only not so large, making three or 



Figure 71. 


four on each side, according to the size of the cherry. 
These cuts can very easily be made with a fine cut 
three-square or half -round file. A cherry of this 
form for a round ball is shown in Fig. 70, and one 
for a conical ball in Fig. 71. 

In using a three-square file, to get a fine-cutting 
edge that will make a sharp V cut, grind away the 










232 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


teeth of one side. This will remove the slightly 
rounded or blunt edge as usually made on this form 
of file. By grinding thus, two acute cutting angles 
can be had from one file. If they get a little dull 
on the sharp cutting corner, a little grinding will 
restore the edge and make it sharp again. 

Tempering Bullet Cherries .—In tempering the 
cherry do not leave it too hard, and be careful not to 
temper too hard above the spherical portion. Leave 
the shank softer, as it will be less liable to break. 
It is not necessary to shape the shank so as to ex¬ 
actly conform to the shape of the V opening in the 
forming tool, for, as the edges of this opening have 
been bevelled the same as the opening that shapes 
the cherry, they will act as cutters, and will reduce 
the shank to conform to the V. It is well to mark 
the cherries in some conspicuous place on the shank, 
with their size in hundredths of an inch, the same 
as cartridges are numbered, and also mark them 
with the number of round balls to the pound, as 
was formerly in vogue among gunsmiths. The 
finished cherries, as purchased from dealers, are so 
numbered. 

Cherries, as purchased, have shanks fitted to be 
used with a bit-stock, but if the gunsmith fits these 
tools to be used in a lathe chuck that has a round 
hole, necessitating a round shank, and also wishes 
to use them in a bit-stock, he can fill up the square 
hole in the bit-stock by brazing therein a piece of 
iron, and then drilling a round hole to fit the tool. 


CHAPTER XXVIII. 


SCREW-MAKING TOOLS. 

The tools used by the “ old time” gunsmith for 
screw making were few and simple, and are now 
seldom found except in the shop of some “old vet¬ 
eran” of the trade. Twenty-five or thirty years ago 
modifications of these tools were used in some of 



Figure 72. 


the armories where Government arms were made, 
and even now the same principle of these tools is 
employed but changed in form and adapted to ma¬ 
chinery operated by steam or other power. 

Fig. 72 shows a tool to be held in the vise by the 
projection, and the rough form of the screw, or a 
piece of wire of suitable size is inserted in the hole 
in the centre of the raised portion, cut with radial 
teeth, and a screwdriver inserted in a transverse slot 
in the other end of the rough screw, or bit of rod ; 
it is then rotated by a bit stock until by the pressure 











234 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


applied the teeth cut away the metal and so forms the 
body of the screw. To form the head of the screw 
another tool, shown in Fig. 73 having a counter¬ 
sunk hole made in the centre of the diameter of 
the head but a little deeper, is used. The unenlarged 



Figure 73. 


portion of the hole in the tool corresponding to the 
body of the screw, which being inserted in the hole 
is rotated by means of the screwdriver in the bit 
stock, until the head is shaped in the same manner 



Figure 74. 

that the body was formed. Of course, different 
tools had to be made for different sized screws.* 

In forming the tang screw, which has the head 
bevelled on the under side, a tool was used like 
Fig. 74. The rod was turned into a tool in the same 



SCREW-MAKING TOOLS. 


235 


manner as for making a flat headed screw* then 
the body was inserted in the bevelled head-making 
tool and rotated as for making a flat head. The 
edges of the bevelled teeth being so formed as to 
become cutters upon the inner or central edges, and 
so reduce the screw head to that shape. 

For countersinking, to let in the heads of these 
bevelled forms of screws, a tool is used like the one 
as shown in Fig. 75—the stem serving as a guide 



Figure 75. 


when inserted in the work, and a slot to admit the 
screw driver, for turning them, being made in the 
large end. This tool is made about two inches in 
length, the head being about half an inch in 
diameter. 

The length of the tools in Figs. 72, 73 and 74, 
where they are held in the vise, is about an inch 
and a half or an inch and three-quarters; the width 
from half an inch to five-eighths, according to 
size; the thickness one-quarter inch. The round 
part with the cutting teeth is about three-quarters 
of an inch in height from the flat portion, and is 
about the same diameter. The teeth may be in 
number five, six or eight, as most convenient to 
make. The tools for bevelled heads are best made 
with five teeth. 

Making Small Taps .—The best manner of mak- 







236 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

ing large taps is to turn them to size in a lathe, and 
then cut the screw by the same means of with a die 
plate. Small taps cannot very well be so made. A 
very good way is to get good steel wire—generally 
sold of all sizes, under the name of Stubs’ steel 
wire—and from this make taps; the thread can be 
cut by means of a die stock. 

When the thread is properly made, there are sev¬ 
eral ways to form it so as to make it a cutting tool. 
One method is to file it with four sides, making it a 
square. In this case it scarcely cuts, but rather 
“ jams” up a thread. Another one is to file it tri¬ 
angular or “three square.” This form makes it 
rather a better form, as regards cutting quality; but 
as in case of the square form, it will be observed 
that the inclination of the sides is such that they 
would not be selected for a cutting tool if such an 
angle were made as a tool for that purpose. If 
two flutes or grooves be made of angular form, with 
a square file, or two hollows be cut with a round 
file, these flutes running lengthwise with the tool, 
the edges then present more of the aspect of a cut¬ 
ting tool; but the distance is so great between the 
flutes that there is great friction, and breakage will 
result if the hole to be tapped be too small, or too 
much force be applied. If three or four flutes be 
made the evil of friction will then be remedied. Be 
sure to cut the flutes deep enough to receive all cut¬ 
tings that may be removed or the tap will become 
clogged, and can with difficulty be turned out, or 
perhaps may be broken. 


SCREW-MAKING TOOLS. 


237 


A cheap and good way to finish a tap is, after the 
thread is made, to file away one-half of its diame¬ 
ter nearly the length of the thread. This will give 
great clearance and space for the cuttings, and at the 
same time the cutting edge is very sharp and is 
strong. It will be found to cut very easily. If a 
tap of this make becomes dull it can be sharpened 
by grinding on the flat formed by filing it away. 
If the tap be too large it can be made smaller by 
thus grinding. 

Large taps work equally well made in this way, 
but care must be taken in starting them in a hole or 
the thread may be made crooked. 

Learners, both large and small, straight or taper, 
can be made in this manner, and are effective as 
well as cheap to make, and can be kept sharp by 
grinding them on the flat side. 


CHAPTER XXIX. 


NOMENCLATURE. 


Nomenclature of the Gun Stock. —Fig. 76 shows 
a gun stock with the locks, plates and other metal 



Figure 76. 


portions removed, a, is the butt; b , the small or 
handle ; c, the head ; d, the bump ; e, the comb ; /, 



Figure 77. 


the toe ; g , lock-bed ; h , fore-end or fore-arm; i\ 
pistol-grip; k , cap or end of pistol-grip; l, tip of 





























































NOMENCLATURE. 


239 


fore-end; m, escutcheons; n, 
mortice for bolt; o, chequering. 

Nomenclature of the Gun Lock. 
—The number of pieces in a 
common gun lock, as shown, 
are thirteen, and are fully illus¬ 
trated in the cut, Fig. 77. A s is 
the lock-plate ; B, the hammer ; 



Figure 78. 

C , mainspring ; D, the bridle ; 
E, the tumbler ; F\ the sear ; G , 
the sear-spring; iZ, the swivel 
or stirrup; i, the sear-spring 
screw; K , K , K\ the bridle 
screws; Z,, hole for side-screw. 
In some locks there are only 
two bridle screws. In others 





Figure 79. 

a screw holds the 









240 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


mainspring to place instead of a lip catching under 
the stud. 

Nomenclature of the Hammer .—The names of dif¬ 
ferent parts of the hammer, Fig. 78, are: a, the body; 


Figure 80. Figure 81. 

b, the head; c, the comb; d, the nose; e, the cup; 
/, tumbler-hole. 

Nomenclature of the Loch-Plate .—The names of 
different portions of the lock-plate, Fig. 79, are: a, 


0 

Figure 82. 

the bolster; b , mainspring-catch; c, hole for main¬ 
spring-pivot; d, hole for side-screw; e, hole for arbor 



Figure 83. Figure 84 

of tumbler; /, hole for sear-screw; g , hole for sear 
spring-screw; h, slot for sear-spring stud; i 3 i, holes 
for bridle screws. 








NOMENCLATURE. 


241 


Nomenclature of the Tumbler. —The names of the 
tumbler, Fig. 80, are: a, the body; b, arbor; c, 
squares; d 3 pivot; e, swivel arm; /, pin-hole, and g , 
the tumbler-screw hole. 

Nomenclature of the Bridle. —The bridle, Fig. 81, 
consists of: a, the body; b, the eye for tumbler- 
pivot; c, hole for sear-screw; d , d, holes for 
bridle screws. Some tumblers have a pin 
that goes in a hole in the lock-plate, and |jjj| 
this pin is called a pivot. fjj| 

Nomenclature of the Mainspring. —The J|p 
mainspring, Fig. 82, consists of: a, the upper 85 
branch; b , the lower branch; c, the hook; 
d , the pivot; e, the catch which is sometimes called 
the tang. 

Nomenclature of the Sear. —The sear, Fig. 83, con¬ 



sists of: a, the body; b , the nose; c, the arm; d , 
screw-hole. 

Nomenclature of the Sear-Spring. —The sear¬ 
spring, Fig. 84, consists of: a, the blade; 6, upper 
branch; c, lower branch; d, fche stud; e, screw- 
hole. 







242 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


Nomenclature of the Swivel .—The mainspring- 
swivel or stirrup, Fig. 85, consists of: a, the body; 
b , the axis; and c, the tumbler-pin hole. 

Nomenclature of the Breech-Pin. —Fig. 86 shows 
full size of musket-barrel breech-pin. a, plug wiih 
threads; 6, tenon; c, tang; d , tang-screw hole; e, 
face. 

In sporting guns the tang is often called the 
“ strap,” and is distinguished as long and short. 
The length varying from two and a half inches as 
shortest, and five inches as the longest. Sometimes 
the term “tail” is employed instead of tang or 
strap. The diameter of the plug is generally one- 
half, five-eighths, and three-quarters of an inch. 
The diameter of the pin used in United States mus¬ 
kets and rifles is three-quarters of an inch. 

Nomenclature of Screws .—In all the screws, the 
parts are the stem, the head, the slot and the 
thread. 


CHAPTER XXX. 


ON BROWNING. 

Object of Browning .—Browning is done for the 
purpose of subduing the bright color of the barrel 
from the sight of game ; to bring out the fibres of 
the metal to show their form and beauty, and also 
to show whether the metal be free from flaws. It 
does not prevent barrels from rusting, but rust will 
not attack so readily as if left in a bright condition. 
The browning is very certain to make all defects ap¬ 
pear, except those designedly hidden, and not only 
defects of materials but the filing and finishing of 
the barrel, if not well done, will appear in marks in 
certain lights. A thoroughly well-filed barrel pre¬ 
sents, what may be called, a deep liquid appearance. 

Preparatory Process .—The process of browning 
is simple and cheap, and at the same time serves to 
protect a gun, in some measure, from rust, and also 
adds to its appearance. The operation consists in 
producing a very thin uniform film of rust, or ox¬ 
ide, upon the iron and giving a gloss to its surface 
by rubbing wax over it, or by coating it with some 
kind of varnish, as shellac varnish. 

Preparatory to browning, the barrel having been 
filed and polished bright, is rubbed with lime to re¬ 
move all grease. Some gun makers use wet lime or 


244 THE gunsmith’s manual. 

lime water and then rub in dry powdered lime. 
The vent holes are to be stopped with wax or 
wooden plugs, and both breech and muzzle are to 
be plugged with wooden rods which serve as han¬ 
dles to hold the barrel during the operation. The 
object of plugging is to prevent the mixture from 
finding its way into the interior of the barrel and 
the breech and muzzle plugs also serving as handles, 
prevent the hands from coming in contact with the 
barrel, which would prevent the stain from ‘ ‘ tak¬ 
ing, ” and consequently cause a spot of different 
color from that on other portions of the work. The 
solution is generally applied with a sponge or cloth, 
sponge being preferable, until the surface is equally 
moistened, and after standing in a warm place, gen¬ 
erally about twenty-four hours, it is rubbed off with 
a stiff brush or a wire card. The state of the atmos¬ 
phere will have much to do with the action of the 
browning mixture. It can be easily ascertained 
when the barrels are dry enough to work, as by ap¬ 
plying the card, if dry, the rust will fly off quickly, 
but if not dry, the rust will adhere firmly and the 
surface of the barrel will look streaky. Some mix¬ 
tures will dry in twelve hours or even less, but 
twenty-four hours will insure their being perfectly 
dry. The process of wetting and brushing, or 
“ carding,” is repeated until the barrel has acquired 
the desired color. When this stage is reached the 
barrel is freely washed with hot water, in which a 
little potash may be mixed. Then wash with clean 
water and dry thoroughly. A little lime water may 


ON BROWNING. 


245 


be used as a wash to destroy any free acid that may 
remain in the pores of the metal. 

The Processes of Browning. —A browning or rust 
may be obtained very speedily and well by enclosing 
the barrels in a chamber and subjecting them to the 
vapor of muriatic acid. The same end may be ob¬ 
tained by moistening the surface with dilute muri¬ 
atic or nitric acid. There is another material some¬ 
times used, which is butter or chloride of antimony. 
It is sometimes called “bronzing or browning salt.” 
In using this substance, a uniform mixture is made 
with it and olive oil; this is rubbed upon the barrel, 
which is slightly heated, and is then exposed to the 
air until the required degree of browning is arrived 
at. The operation of the antimony is quickened by 
rubbing on after it, a little aquafortis. 

Browning Damascus Barrels. —Damascus barrels 
are browned by first burnishing the barrels very 
nicely, then cover with bone oil; pound, or drop, 
or strew wood ashes all over, then heat in a wire 
cage filled with charcoal, until the first dark blue is 
obtained. After the barrels are cold, mix a small 
quantity of sulphuric acid in water, and with a hard 
brush apply to the barrel. The acid will remove the 
color from the steel portion of the barrel, leaving 
the iron, on account of its greater adhesion, still re¬ 
taining its blue color. Take care to keep a good 
color and not extract too much. 

Browning Belgian Damascus Barrels. —The char¬ 
acteristic, bright, wavy appearance of Belgian Da¬ 
mascus barrels is generally “eat up,” and the pro- 


246 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


cess is termed “ pickling.” The process results in 
eating away the softer metals from the harder, used 
in forming the barrel. The preparation used is one 
pound of blue vitriol dissolved in a gallon of soft 
water, at the boiling point, and the boiling contin¬ 
ued until the quantity is reduced about one-fourth; 
then let it cool, and pour out into a lead trough. Plug 
the barrels securely at both breech and muzzle, so 
that the liquid cannot get into the interior. When 
the barrels are immersed in the solution, it will act 
upon the metal in fifteen to twenty minutes. Re¬ 
move and wash with water, and if not satisfactory, 
immerse again, until the operation is complete. 
Pour boiling water over them, and scratch well with 
a steel brush or card, which will eventually give the 
beautiful, bright, wavy appearance. Laminated 
steel barrels may be subjected to this same opera¬ 
tion. 

Browning Inferior Barrels .—Inferior quality of 
Birmingham barrels are browned as follows: Dis¬ 
solve as much muriate of mercury as can be taken 
up in a glassfull of alcohol. Mix this solution in 
one pint or more of water. A small quantity of 
this mixture is poured on a little whitening and laid 
on the barrel with a sponge, rather lightly. As soon 
as dry, brush off and lay on a fresh coating. So 
proceed until the barrel is dark enough, which is 
generally about two or three days. The effect is to 
make the softer portions of the metal a beautiful 
brown, while the harder portions remain quite light. 
The rusting process w killed by washing in hot 


ON BROWNING. 


247 


water, after which the barrels are suddenly im¬ 
mersed in cold water. This has the effect of height¬ 
ening the brightness of both colors. 

Plain Welded Barrels made to Resemble Twist .— 
Plain welded barrels are made to resemble twist 
barrels by wetting a thread or fine cord with dilute 
acid, and winding it around the barrel so as to make 
spiral lines, running all along its surface. Wherever 
the thread touches a slight coating of rust will be 
formed. The barrel may be treated in this way two 
or three times, and the spiral windings of the thread 
will exhibit fine dark lines closely resembling twist 
barrels. To wind the thread the barrel may be put 
between the centres of a lathe, and so turned while 
it winds the thread upon it, being guided by the 
hand, or the barrel may be supported between cen¬ 
tres or put on a rod of wood, which may be turned 
by a crank or handle. 

Barrels may be colored by exposing them to a de¬ 
gree of heat sufficient to produce a blue tinge, and 
is done to color pistol barrels, but when double gun 
barrels are soft-soldered together this cannot be done 
on account of danger of melting the solder. The 
inner surface of the barrel, which is also so colored, 
must be polished after the operation. 

Smoke Staining. —This method of coloring barrels 
is as follows : The barrels are washed with a little 
sulphuric acid, to cause the metal to receive the 
effects of the gas more readily; it is then washed off, 
and the barrels rubbed dry. A fire is built with coal 
possessing as much hydrogen gas and as little sub 


248 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

phur as possible. Burn the coals until they give a 
clear, white flame, with no black smoke. Pass the 
barrels through that flame, backward and forward, 
until the whole are covered with a black, sooty coat¬ 
ing. Place them in a damp, cool cellar and let them 
stand about twenty-four hours, and if the place be 
sufficiently damp, the iron parts will be covered 
with a red rust, while the steel portions still retain 
the sooty coat. Scratch them off with a wire card 
and rub with a piece of cloth, and wash or polish 
with water, using on the cloth a little flour of em¬ 
ery. The steel will be found to be of the original 
bright color, while the iron will be a little darker. 
Rub dry, and pass the barrels through the flame 
again. Allow them to stand about twelve hours to 
rust, and then polish as before. With every smok¬ 
ing the colors will be a little darker. The darkest 
color to be obtained is a fine purple-black color on 
the iron ; the steel inclining to a copper color. 

The principle of this stain is simply the hydrogen 
gas contained in the coal acting on the iron, iron 
being of a softer nature than the steel, which it does 
not affect, the flame also possessing a quantity of 
tar, it is imperceptibly embodied by the iron during 
the action of the oxide, and, when finished, by fill¬ 
ing up the spaces created, it becomes decidedly more 
impervious to damp or wet than any other stain or 
browning which is composed entirely of oxide of 
iron. 


CHAPTER XXXI. 


RECIPES FOR BROWNING GUN BARRELS. 

Solution for Browning Gun Barrels.— Make a 
solution by putting together in a glass vessel, spirits 
of nitre, three-quarter ounce; tincture of steel, three- 
quarter ounce; black brimstone, one-quarter ounce; 
blue vitriol, one-half ounce; corrosive sublimate, 
one-quarter ounce; nitric acid, one drachm, and 
copperas, one-quarter ounce. Mix with one and 
one-half pints of rain water, and bottle for use. 
Clean the barrel till entirely bright, rubbing it over 
with finest emery paper, then apply the solution 
with a clean white cloth. Set away for twenty-four 
hours. At the end of this time a rust will have 
formed over the barrel. Go over it with a steel 
scratch-brush, then rub off all the rust with a 
woolen cloth. If you find the brown not dark 
enough, cover again with the solution and set away 
twenty-four hours longer. Remove the rust exactly 
as in the first instance, then, the color suiting, wash 
off with a wet cloth, rub to thorough dryness, and 
finish by rubbing with linseed oil, to prevent further 
rusting. 

This application browns the barrel beautifully, 
and in case of twist leaves the markings promi¬ 
nently plain. 

The tincture of steel is sometimes not to be ob- 


250 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


tained at a small drug store, in which case the un¬ 
medicated tincture of iron may be made to answer 
reasonably well. 

2. Sulphate of copper, one ounce; sweet spirits of 
nitre, one ounce; water, one pint. Mix. In a few 
days it will be ready for use. 

3. Tincture muriate of iron, one ounce; nitric 
ether, one ounce; sulphate of copper, four scruples; 
rain water, one pint; if the process is to be hurried, 
add two or three grains of oxymuriate of mercury. 
Put in lime water to neutralize acid. 

4. Spirits of nitre, one pound; alcohol, one pound; 
corrosive sublimate, one ounce. Mix and cork for 
use. 

5. Tincture of muriate of iron, one ounce; nitric 
ether, one ounce; sulphate of copper, four scruples; 
rain water, one pint. 

6. Alcohol, one and a half ounce; tincture of steel, 
one and a half ounce; corrosive sublimate, one and 
a half ounce; sweet spirits of nitre, one and a half 
ounce; blue vitriol, one ounce; nitric acid, three- 
quarters of an ounce. Mix and dissolve in one quart 
of warm water. Keep in glass bottles. 

7. Nitric ether, six ounces; alcohol, one ounce; 
sulphate of copper (blue vitriol), one and a half 
ounce; muriated tincture of iron, one and a half 
ounce; tincture of gum benzoin, one and a half 
ounce. Dissolve the sulphate of copper in water, 
add the other ingredients, previously mixed, and 
then add three pints of boiling water. 

8. Spirits of nitre, one pound; alcohol, one pound; 


RECIPES FOR BROWNING GUN BARRELS. 251 


corrosive sublimate, one ounce. Mix in a bottle 
and keep corked for use. 

9. Soft water, one quart; dissolve in it blue vitriol, 
two ounces; corrosive sublimate, one ounce; and one 
ounce of spirits of nitre. Put on one coating, and 
in about an hour a second one, then let the work 
stand twelve hours. Oil and rub with cloth. 

10. One ounce nitric acid; one ounce blue vitriol; 
dissolve in four ounces rain water, and mix all 
together in a pint of water. Warm the mixture 
slightly and apply gently with a sponge. 

11. Nitric acid, one-half ounce; sweet spirits of 
nitre, one-half ounce; alcohol, one ounce; blue vit¬ 
riol, two ounces; tincture of iron, one ounce; soft 
water, one quart. 

12. Sweet spirits of nitre, one and a half ounce; 
nitric acid, one ounce; tincture of steel, two ounces; 
alcohol, one and a half ounce; blue vitriol, one half 
ounce. Dissolve the blue vitriol in cold rain water, 
and add the other ingredients to make one quart. 

13. Apply the following fluid by means of a clean 
white cloth: Spirits of nitre, one pound; alcohol, 
one pound; corrosive sublimate, one ounce. Mix in 
a bottle and keep corked for use. Apply one coat 
and set in a warm, dark place, until a red rust is 
formed over the whole surface, which will require, 
in warm weather, from ten to twelve hours; in cold, 
from fifteen to twenty hours. Then card it down 
with a gun-maker’s card, and rub off with a clean 
cloth. Repeat the process until the color suits, as 
each coat gives a darker shade. 


252 THE gunsmith’s manual. 

Browning Recipes for Twist and Laminated 
Barrels. —1. Sweet spirits of nitre, one-half ounce; 
tincture of steel, one-quarter ounce; corrosive subli¬ 
mate, one-half ounce; aqua fortis, sixty drops; 
nitrate of silver, four grains; a small lump of chalk 
and one pint of rain water. 

2. Tincture of sesqui-chloride of iron, one-half 
ounce; corrosive sublimate, one drachm; sulphate 
of copper, one-half drachm; nitric acid, one drachm 
to one and a half drachms; alcohol, six drachms; 
water, eight ounces. Dissolve the corrosive subli¬ 
mate in the alcohol, then add the solution to the 
other ingredients and let the whole stand for a 
month or six weeks, when it will be ready for use. 

3. Sweet spirits of nitre, one ounce; tincture of 
steel, one-lialf ounce; blue vitriol, one-quarter ounce; 
nitric acid, six drops; corrosive sublimate, fourteen 
grains; water, one pint. When the barrels are dark 
enough, drop a few drops of muriatic acid in water 
and wash the barrel slightly to brighten the twists. 

4. Muriatic tincture of steel, one ounce; alcohol, 
one ounce; muriate of mercury, one-quarter ounce; 
strong nitric acid, one-quarter ounce; blue vitriol, 
one-eighth ounce; water, one quart. Thoroughly 
mix the ingredients. Let them stand about thirty 
days before using. Wet the barrels with the mix¬ 
ture, applied with a sponge, about once every two 
hours. Scratch off with wire card every morning 
until the barrels are dark enough. 

To Blue Gun Barrels .—A very pretty bluish color 
may be imparted to gun barrels by dressing them off 


RECIPES FOR BROWNING GUN BARRELS. 253 

to brightness with fine emery paper, and then rub¬ 
bing them over quickly with nitric acid. When the 
desired color has appeared, wash them off with clean 
water, rub dry with a soft cloth, and then rub with 
linseed oil to prevent any further action of the acid. 

Broivn Tint for Iron or Steel. —Dissolve, in four 
parts water, two parts of crystalized chloride of iron; 
two parts of chloride of antimony; and one part of 
gallic acid, and apply the solution with a sponge or 
cloth to the barrel, letting it dry in a warm place. 
Repeat the process according to the depth of color 
desired. Wash with warm water, and dry; then 
rub over with boiled linseed oil. The metal receives 
a brown tint and resists moisture. The chloride of 
antimony should be as little acid as possible. 

Transparent Blue for Iron or Steel. —Put together 
Demar varnish, one quart; fine ground Prussian 
blue, one-quarter ounce. Polish the metal to bright¬ 
ness, and put on thinly with a varnish brush. A 
beautiful transparent blue color, but one that will 
not stand rough usage. 

Varnish for Browned Barrels. —1 . [Dissolve ten 
parts clear grains of mastic, five parts camphor, fif¬ 
teen grains sandarac, and five parts elemi, in a suffi¬ 
cient quantity of alcohol, and apply the varnish 
without heat. The articles treated with this varnish 
will not only be preserved from rust, but their 
metallic lustre will not be in the least dimmed by 
exposure to dampness. 

2. Another varnish may be made by using gum 
shellac, one ounce; gum sandarac, one ounce; Venice 


254 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


turpentine, one drachm; and ninety-eight per cent, 
alcohol, one gallon. 

3. Another formula consists of shellac, one ounce; 
dragon’s blood, one-quarter of an ounce; alcohol, one 
quart. A little less dragon’s blood may be used if 
the color be too great. 

Finish for Browned Barrels .—There are many 
ways of finishing barrels after browning. Some 
gunsmiths warm the barrels and rub them while 
quite warm with a flannel cloth and finish with a 
little bees-wax and turpentine. Some polish with a 
steel burnisher or rub with white wax; others use a 
wash of thin shellac varnish laid on carefully and 
evenly with a camel’s hair brush. Some finish off 
with a solution of two ounces of shellac and three 
drachms of dragon’s blood dissolved in two quarts of 
good alcohol. 

To Remove Old Browning .—To remove old brown¬ 
ing, plug the vent and muzzle of the barrels; im¬ 
merse the browned parts, for about one hour, in hot 
lime water, or strong lye, to remove the varnish or 
grease; wipe them and put them in vinegar, in a 
wooden trough, for an hour or less, when the brown¬ 
ing may be wiped off with a rag. 


CHAPTER XXXII. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

Shellac and its Uses .—Gum shellac is the gun¬ 
smith’s friend. It is the best material from which 
to make the varnish he uses, and in wood-working, 
if there be cracks or checks in the material, or in 
stocking should a little slip of the tool occur while 
letting in locks or other parts, a little of the gum 
judiciously applied remedies the defect, and, like 
charity, “ covers a multitude of little sins.” 

Shellac is often adulterated with resins, and it re¬ 
quires some knowledge of the article to detect this 
adulteration. It can only be ascertained by expe¬ 
rience in handling, or by ocular demonstration with 
an expert. 

To make Shellac Varnish .—To make varnish, put 
the shellac in a clean vessel and put over it a quan¬ 
tity of good alcohol, enough to about cover it, if* it 
lie somewhat compact in the receptacle; if too thick 
when made it can be thinned with alcohol. While 
the gum is dissolving keep it covered from dust and 
let it stand in a warm place, as in the sun during 
the summer, or near a warm stove in the winter. 
Too much warmth will tend to evaporate the alcohol; 
and for this reason it ought to be somewhat sealed 
from the air. It may take two or three days to 


256 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


thoroughly dissolve the gum for varnish, according 
to the temperature in which it is placed, etc. 

When the gum is dissolved, thin with alcohol to 
the proper consistency for easy application with the 
brush. If it be dirty, or it be desired to have it 
clear and nice, filter it through good blotting paper. 
When not using the varnish, keep close covered to 
prevent evaporation. 

How to conceal Bad Places in Wood-work. —If 
there he cracks in a stock or a bad cut made in 
stocking, as will sometimes happen where locks and 
straps are let in, apply a piece of the gum to the 
place and with a warm iron melt it into the place, 
so that it will be well filled; also warm the wood in 
close proximity to be sure of good ahesion. Let it 
remain until cold and solid, and then finish down 
the same as the stock is finished down. 

Another Method. —Another method of filling bad 
places in wood-work is to get fine dust, as made 
with a fine rasp or file, and mix this dust with thin 
glue, and rub it into the interstices, letting it re¬ 
main until hard and solid, and then finish same as 
the adjoining wood. Neither this nor shellac will 
adhere where there is oil, or where the surface to 
adhere has been oiled. 

Emery Cloth and Emery Paper.— Emery paper is 
the cheaper, but is not so durable as the cloth. The 
paper is soon worn out and is torn ki using, but the 
cloth is seldom destroyed, and can be used so long 
as any abrasive material remains upon it. 

There are about six grades, say Nos. 00, 0,1, 1£, 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


25 1 


2 and 3, which may be selected. To use on plain 
surfaces cut the sheet up in small, convenient pieces, 
fold a piece around a file and use as if using the 
file. In using a finer number, be careful to remove 
all the marks left by using the previous number. 
If moistened with oil, a fine, soft-appearing, dead 
finish is obtained. To use in a lathe, run the work 
with fast speed and hold the cloth to place with the 
hand, or put it around a file and so hold it. After 
the pieces are somewhat worn, they can be used to 
finish with. 

In selecting by the numbers remember that 00 is 
the finest, and is called flour of emery cloth, or paper; 
0 is a little coarser, and then follow the different 
grades in numerical order. 

Uses of the Alcoholic Lamp. How to make Small 
Springs .—An alcohol lamp is almost indispensable 
to the jobbing gunsmith. Suppose a small bent 
spring is to be made, a little trigger spring, for in¬ 
stance, such as is used in many kinds of revolvers, 
it can be easily formed in this manner: Take a bit 
of old watch-spring, heat it in the lamp until it is 
blue, then, with the snips or hand-shears, divide it 
lengthwise to the necessary width; heat in the flame 
of the lamp, and, with a pair of pliers, bend to 
the required shape. It is not always necessary to 
temper these springs, but if it be necessary to 
do so, heat until red in lamp, using a blow-pipe if 
t-he heat be insufficient, harden in oil, and then 
draw the temper to suit. The whole operation 
can be done without moving from the bench, 


258 THE gunsmith’s manual. 

and much quicker, and certainly better, than could 
be done at the forge. 

How to make Small Drills. —Then, again, to make 
small drills of steel wire, use the lamp for heating 
and tempering. If a small drill be broken, draw 
the temper in the lamp preparatory to forming it 
anew. Drills of larger size may be hardened in the 
forge fire, brightened by grinding or rubbing on a 
piece of fine emery cloth, and the temper readily 
drawn in the lamp. The same process may be 
applied to tempering small screw taps. Small screws 
can be readily blued in the same manner. 

Advantages of the Alcohol Lamp. —The lamp has 
this adyantage over the forge-fire; it draws the 
temper very evenly, and the temper color can be 
readily seen, as the flame of alcohol makes no 
smoke to obscure it. Even for small tempering, 
when once employed, no gunsmith will think of 
discontinuing its use. 

The Soldering Copper. —The soldering copper for 
the use of the gunsmith should be about one and a 
half pounds in weight. The length of the copper 
should be about four or five inches, of octagon 
form, with a square pyramidal shaped point. It is 
fixed to an iron rod about eight inches long, on the 
end of which is a wooden handle. 

How to Heat the Copper. —When heating the 
copper for use, the best way to ascertain the proper 
heat is to hold it near the face, and if a bright warm 
glow is felt, it is hot enough for use. If heated too 
hot the tinning will be burned off, and it will not 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


259 


work satisfactorily. To replace the tinning, heat it 
warm enough to just melt the solder, and file the 
surface to be tinned bright and smooth, then place a 
little solder and a bit of resin on a piece of sheet- 
tin, and in this mb the heated copper until the 
brightened surface has received a coating of the sol¬ 
der, the resin acting as a flux during the operation. 

How to Tin the Copper .—Another method to tin 
a copper is to put the solder and the resin on a brick, 
heat the copper and rub until it receives the tin 
coating. The common soldering acid may be used 
instead of the resin for a flux. During the opera¬ 
tion the point of the copper may be dipped in the 
acid to facilitate the tinning. It will be found that 
a too free use of the acid, if used as a flux, for gen¬ 
eral work, will soon destroy the point of the copper. 
When this is the case file off the roughness and heat 
the copper quite warm, and draw it out to shape on 
the anvil, the same as if working a piece of iron. 
When so shaped, file smooth and re-tin as directed. 

To Prevent Gun Barrels from Glimmering .—It 
sometimes happens that gun-barrels are disposed to 
throw off a kind of glimmer without any apparent 
cause, thus seriously interfering with the hunter or 
sportsman in getting a correct sight. Of course, the 
gunsmith would remedy the evil by browning the 
barrel, but the sportsman in the woods could not do 
this. Had his friend, the gunsmith, known that 
such a thing was going to happen he would have 
told him to get a green hazel-nut pod, crush it, and 
rub the juice over the barrel, which would produce 


260 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

a beautiful non-glimmering brown. If a green. 
hazel-nut pod could not be had, a green wild plum 
or a green wild crab-apple or a bunch of green wild 
grapes would answer the same purpose reasonably 
well. In the absence of these an unripe black-wal¬ 
nut crushed and rubbed over the barrel would stop 
the glimmering; and early in spring, when no kind 
of fruits had yet appeared, a young sprout of wild 
grape-vine crushed and rubbed over the barrel 
would make a very good substitute. These were 
the means resorted to by the ‘ ‘ hunters of Ken¬ 
tucky” in the long-gone days of backwoods life, 
when “Old Kentuck” was young. 

Repairing Shot-Chargers .—Very often the stud 
that holds the lever of a shot-charger will become 
loose or be forced from its position. The best 
method to repair it is to remove the lever with its 
spring and the cutters, put the stud back in place, 
wet the joint on the inside the charger with solder¬ 
ing acid, and, holding it with the stud downwards, 
put a bit of soft solder upon the joint, and hold it 
over an alcohol lamp until the solder melts. If well 
done it will “ stay put.” 

Sometimes the lever spring will not remain in 
place, but will slip out. To remedy the evil, take a 
common Berdan cartridge primer, or any other kind 
will do, only take one that has been used or has had 
the priming removed, put inside it a drop of solder¬ 
ing acid and a bit of solder, enough to fill it when 
melted. Hold it over the lamp until the solder 
fuses. When it has cooled, wet the charger with a 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


261 


touch of the acid just where the bend of the spring 
comes, and there place the primer with the solder 
next the wet place. Hold it in position with a bent 
piece of wire or a strip of steel bent like a loop. 
Hold over the lamp, with the primer downward, 
until the solder is melted. Replace the spring, and 
it will be found that it will remain firmly in its 
place. 

Broken Plunger Nipples .—When plunger nipples 
are broken or are lost from the gun, and none are at 
hand to repair the damage, a substitute may be 
found in a common gun-nipple by filing away a por¬ 
tion of the cone where the cap is placed. It is 
worth while to save broken nipples, as they are 
taken from guns with this end in view for their use. 
They can be annealed or the temper drawn, and they 
can be kept ready for drilling for the strikers and 
cutting over to fit the gun in which they are to be 
inserted. The nipple used in military arms makes 
a good substitute for a broken plunger nipple, as the 
thread is nearly the same as that of some pluuger 
nipples. 

How to Remove Rusted Screws , Broken Nipples , 
etc .—Sometimes it so happens that a screw is so 
rusted in a lock or other part of a gun, or a rusted 
nipple refuses to start from its seat, and by repeated 
trials the sides of the screw-head adjoining the slot 
are worn away or the squares of the nipple are 
forced off, and the removal of either screw or nipple 
an almost impossibility with the hand screw driver 
or nipple wrench. In such cases have a screw- 


262 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


driver or the nipple wrench fitted to the lathe chuck, 
and, holding the screw or nipple in place to be thus 
turned out, move the dead spindle of the lathe so 
that the work be firmly held in place, with no 
chance to “ give back,” then turn the lathe by mov¬ 
ing the fly-wheel with the hand, or hold the wheel 
fast and turn the work, and, as there is no chance 
for the tool to slip from its place, the screw and 
nipple is almost sure to be started. If so, it may be 
readily turned from its place by hand. 

Converting Muskets to Sporting Guns .—Very 
often old muskets are brought to the gunsmith to 
have the rifling bored out and changed so as to pre¬ 
sent more of the appearance of a sporting gun. If 
properly worked over they make a gun not very 
bad-looking, but very serviceable, as they will stand 
a great amount of abuse and will bear large charges. 
For shooting hawks and keeping corn-fields clear of 
depredators they are “ just the thing.” 

After the rifling is removed, cut off the barrel to 
30 or 32 inches in length. Take off the bands and 
throw them away. Cut off the stock where the top 
of the lower band comes, solder a rib on under side 
of the barrel and attach two thimbles to receive a 
wooden ramrod. Bore out the stock to receive the 
wooden rod, using the thimbles on the rib as guides 
in so doing. Fit the rod as in sporting guns. Cast 
a tip on fore end of stock where the lower band was, 
using the lower shoulder where the band rested for 
the shoulder of the tip. Remove the elevating sight 
by heating, if it be soldered on, and fix muzzle sight 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


263 


by soldering on a bit of brass, or by drilling a hole 
and putting in a pin and filing to shape. 

In boring for the rod the bit may strike the for¬ 
ward lock-screw, and when this be the case float the 
stock so that the rod will go above the screw. 
Don’t attempt to change the shape of the stock by 
removing any portion of it, otherwise than stated, 
for by so doing the shape and symmetry will be 
lost, and it will show to be a botch job. 

To hold the barrel in place a loop for either wire 
or bolt must be attached to the barrel a little dis¬ 
tance back from the fore end, and a wire or bolt put 
through the stock the same as other guns are made. 
In place of the wire or bolt a very good plan is to 
put a short stud on the barrel, and from the under 
side of the fore end put in a screw with a large head, 
like a tumbler-screw. In this case it is necessary to 
drill a hole through the stud to let the ramrod pass 
through. 

Patent Breech , Bursted .—As the right-hand barrel 
of double muzzle-loading guns is fired more than 
the other, it sometimes happens that the patent 
breech of this barrel is destroyed or becomes defect¬ 
ive. It can be replaced by taking a piece of good 
sound iron, cut down one end of it, and cut a thread 
the same as if making a breech-pin. After being 
fitted to the barrel cup it for powder-chamber like 
the one removed, and cut the hook end off to length. 
Make the nipple seat as given in the article on that 
subject. File the hook so as to fit the break-off, re¬ 
move from the gun, and case-harden. A somewhat 


264 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

formidable-looking job to the one who never made 
one, but very easy and simple when once accom¬ 
plished. 

Broken Tumblers .—It often happens that the 
tumbler in a lock is broken off where the hammer 
goes on, and no tumbler is at hand to replace it. A 
repair may be made by filing away the broken 
square and filing a groove or slot down the round 
part where it went through the lock plate. Fit a 
piece of square iron or steel, of the size of the 
broken square, or a round piece that will make the 
square, to the tumbler by filing away one end to fit 
the slot filed in the round part. Hold it in place 
with a piece of binding wire twisted around it, and 
braze it with spelter solder or good soft copper or 
brass, then finish to fit the hammer. 

Another way is to remove the end where it goes 
into the bridle and then drill a hole through the 
tumbler of the size of this end or bearing ; make the 
piece to be brazed on with one end to fit this hole 
and put it through far enough to make the end filed 
away. When fitted, braze and finish. 

When the trigger catch of a tumbler is broken or 
is worn away, it can be entirely removed by filing 
and a piece of steel fitted or held by a small rivet 
and then brazed. After being finished up and fitted 
to the trigger, the tumbler can be hardened, care 
being taken not to heat it sufficiently to melt the 
brazing material. 

Describing Lines on Bright Surfaces. —Many 
gunsmiths find it difficult to make the pattern of 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


265 


work upon iron or steel, especially after the surface 
is finished. Yet it is necessary to have the outline 
of the intended form. For instance, if the pattern 
of a hammer for a revolver or a gun hammer, the 
sides of which are both flat (in fact the hammers of 
many breech-loading rifles are made in this manner), 
be required to be made on a piece of iron or steel 
that has been faced down, the method is to drill a 
hole for the screw or pin on which it turns, then 
fasten the pattern to the work by driving a piece of 
wire into the hole, and, with a sharp scriber, mark 
around the pattern, which is then removed and the 
work filed away to the line. If the hammer be a 
broken one, then care must be taken to have the 
pieces held carefully as they were before being 
broken. If the pieces be somewhat small and 
difficult to hold properly, warm them over a spirit 
lamp and smear the sides to be put against the 
blank, lightly with beeswax, and this will tend to 
hold them better in place and prevent their slipping. 

To obtain a more permanent line and one that 
will show very distinctly in all its tracings, coat the 
surface on which the line is to be made with a film 
of copper. To do this take a lump of sulphate of 
copper, sometimes called blue vitriol or blue stone, 
wet it with water and rub over the bright surface of 
the work. The moisture will dry in a few minutes, 
leaving a surface or film of pure copper. Put the 
pattern in place and describe the outline. Upon 
removing the pattern the line will be found to be 
clear and showing very distinctly through the cop- 


266 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

pery surface. Three or four light rubs with the 
sulphate are sufficient to produce this surface, which 
is so very thin that it may be easily removed when 
the work is done with a fine file, or by rubbing with 
a bit of emery paper or emery cloth. 


CHAPTER XXXIII. 


ON POWDER AND SHOT. 

To Select Buck Shot .—The proper way is to put a 
wad in the muzzle of the gun, about half an inch 
down, and fit the shot in perfect layers; if this is 
observed, there will be no necessity to try them in 
the cartridge case, as they will be sure to fit. Buck¬ 
shot cast from a mould with nine to the 1| ounce, 
will just fit a twelve-bore barrel at the muzzle in a 
choke bore. If smaller shot is required, choose four 
to a layer, or five, and avoid the sizes that come be¬ 
tween. At forty yards, all these pellets ought to go 
in a 26-inch circle, and the penetration be equal to 
a small rifle. 

Weighing Powder , etc .—For weighing powder 
charges for rifles, Apothecaries’ scales and the 
Apothecaries’ table of weights and measures are 
used. The table is: 

20 grains, 1 scruple; 

3 scruples, 1 drachm; 

8 drachms, 1 ounce; 

12 ounces, 1 pound. 

Powder is bought and sold by Avoirdupois weight, 
which has 16 ounces to the pound. The table is: 

16 drachms, 1 ounce; 

16 ounces, 1 pound. 


268 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


The standard unit of weight of the U. S., is the 
pound, Troy weight, the table of which is: 

24 grains, 1 pennyweight; 

20 pennyweights, 1 ounce; 

12 ounces, 1 pound. 

The grain, ounce, or pound, Troy, and the grain, 
ounce, and pound, Apothecaries’ weight, are precisely 
the same; but the ounce is differently divided. 

The grain weight is the same in both tables. The 
pound Avoirdupois, like the pound Troy, contains 
7,000 grains. The pound Apothecaries, contains 
5,760 grains. 

One pound of powder, Avoirdupois weight, will 
load 140 fifty-grain cartridges; 93 seventy-five- 
grain cartridges; 70 one-hundred-grain cartridges. 

A dram Avoirdupois is equal to 27J| grains. 

In weighing bullets and powder in grains, Troy 
weight is used, and 437 \ grains are equal to one 
ounce Avoirdupois. The drachm, Dixon measure, is 
27£ grains, Troy or Apothecaries’ weight. 


ON POWDER AND SHOT, 


269 


COMPARATIVE SIZES OF SHOT. 


SOFT SHOT PELLETS TO OUNCE. 


Description. 

Sparks. 

Tatham.... 

Le Roy. 

Baltimore .. 

Chicago.... 

St. Louis... 

English .... 

Extra Fine Dust 


84,021 






Fine Dust 


10,784 






Dust. 

5910 

4565 






No. 12. 

3316 

2326 

1778 

2232 

2400 

2820 


“ 11. 

1660 

1346 

982 

1536 

1414 

1700 

• • • • 

“ 10. 

950 

848 

822 

815 

854 

1006 

1728 

“ 9. 

615 

568 

560 

600 

596 

680 

984 

“ 8. 

426 

399 

375 

365 

434 

490 

600 

“ 7 . 

305 

291 

278 

290 

323 

360 

341 

“ 6. 

245 

218 

209 

190 

246 

250 

280 

5. 

182 

168 

166 

150 

172 

190 

218 

“ 4. 

130 

132 

121 

125 

146 

158 

177 

“ 3. 

118 

106 

98 

90 

118 

126 

135 

“ 2. 

90 

86 

82 

70 

92 

95 

112 

“ 1. 

80 

71 

69 

60 

75 

82 

82 

“ B. 

63 

59 

58 

50 

62 

68 

75 

“ B.B. 

55 

50 

49 

45 

53 

55 

58 

“ B.B.B. . 

48 

42 

44 

40 

46 

• • • • 

47 

“ A . 






50 


“ A A . 






40 


<< Cp 

41 

36 

38 

35 




<t t' nr 

36 

31 

32 

30 




“ o . 





38 

39 


“ o 0 . 





33 

34 


“ o o o . 





27 

28 


(1 rp rp rp 



27 

26 




a T T T T 



24 





“ p . 

22 

27 






“ ■p . 


24 

















O 

H-• 

P 

3 

CD 

tr+ 

CD 

'1 


iH 

IM 

3 

Totf 

4 

TTH! 

4* 

ttt<j 

tott 

8 

TlUI 
l o 
TTHT 
l 1 

ttht 

12. 

TTHT 

1 3 

17511 

1 4 

TUff 

16 

T75U 

16 

Toll 

1 7 
TQU 

I 8 

TUT) 
1 9 





20 
TU¥ 
2 1 
Tiny 
XL 


JWU 






































































270 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


COMPARATIVE SIZES OF SHOT. 


CHILLED SHOT PELLETS TO OUNCE. 


Description. 

Sparks. 

Tatham.... 

Le Roy. 

Baltimore .. 

Chicago.... 

St. Louis... 

English_ 

Diameter of 
Shot.... 

No. 12. 

3328 

1670 

960 

618 

432 

318 

253 

190 

142 

120 

106 

89 

2385 

1380 

868 

585 

409 

299 

223 

172 

136 

109 

88 

73 

61 

52 

43 






S 

TST 

Tim 

W 

“ 11. 






“ 10. 





1700 

1000 

606 

350 

270 

220 

180 

130 

110 

80 

" 9. 





“ 8. 





“ 7. 





10 0 

10 
T0U 
11 
Tim 
12 
Tim 
18 
Tim 

' 14 

“ 6. 





“ 5. 





“ 4. 





“ 3. 





“ 2. 





urn 

i « 

Tim 
1 6 

“ 1. 





“ B. 





Tim 

tVt 

Tim 

Tim 

“ B.B. 







“ B. B.B. 



















































































ON POWDER AND SHOT. 



COMPARATIVE SIZES OF BALLS 



BALLS TO POUND. 

Description. 

Sparks. 

Tatham. 

Le Roy. 

Baltimore... 

Chicago.... 

St. Louis... 

English.... 

Diameter of 
Shot. 

Buck 8. 

320 



812 




' 8« 

“ 8. 



320 



10 0 

25 

“ 4 



800 




10 0 

A 

“ 3. 


288 

270 





S.S.S.G. 





272 

S.S.G. 







240 


Buck 2. 

212 

225 

238 

250 



2 8 8 7 29 

Ttny tcttt Tiny 
JA 

“ 8. 


234 


“ 7 





212 

194 



S.G. 





176 

10 0 

Buck 6. 





165 

176 

ToV tA 

I. C. 




174 


Buck 1. 

165 

172 

160 

182 




31 3 0 3 8 

rbir icny tut 

0. 

166 




Buck 5. 





147 


■Any 

tA tA tA 

O. 

144 

140 

145 




M.G. 




136 

C.P. 

136 






8 3_ 

Buck 5. 




136 



tA 

8 4 

L. Buck. 

128 






Buck 4. 





127 


8 2 

O 0. 



120 

120 



1 0 0 

3 5 

Buck 4. 



113 



tA 

“ 8 . 





113 


10 0 
tA 

85 84 

0 0. 

112 

113 





R. 4. 

100 






1 0 0 1 0 u 

3 6 

O 0 0. 

100 






1 0 0 

SB 

Buck 8. 




100 



1 0 0 

tA 

8 6 

“ 2 . 





97 


0 0.0. 




88 



10 0 

LG. 






88 


0 0.0. 

85 


85 




3 8 4 0 

TFtr luiy 








[Continued on next page.] 


























































































272 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


COMPARATIVE SIZES OF BALLS. 


BALLS TO POUND. 


Description. 

Sparks. 

Tatham. 

Le Roy. 

Baltimore... 

Chicago.... J 

St. Louis... 

i 

English.... 

Diameter of 
Shot. 

Balls 38. 


85 






88 

tstt 

N.P. 



85 




Buck 1. 





84 

• • • • 

3 8 

TW 

4 0 

TCRT 

“ 2 . 





70 

58. 




58 



R. 2. 

55 






ToV 

A.P. 



53 




Balls 44. 


50 



48 

• • • • 

tVtj 

44 

TTJTJ 

5 8 

T07T 

Buck 1. 




50 

R. 1. 

36 






32 ... 



32 



. - 

4 OZ. 





32 

• • • • 

6 2 

1THJ 

6 3 

Tinr 

6 0 

TW 

M. 18. 

18 

16 





M. 16. 



16 











COLT PISTOL SIZES. 


Colt 31. 

Buck 1 

R. 4 
R. 2 




Buck 6 

Buck 3 

Buck 1 




“ 36. 

000 

B’ll»44 



Buck 2 

44 



“ 44. 


















































































ON POWDER AND SHOT. 


273 


COMPARATIVE SIZES OF GUNPOWDER. 

Commencing with the Coarsest Grain of each Quality. 


Common Sporting. 

Fine Sporting. 

| 

Oriental 

Orange. 

Hazzard 

.. . 

Dupont. 

Oriental 

Orange. 

Hazzard 

Dupont 


C. 


Fg. 

Falcon ^ 


Ameri¬ 
can. . 


Fg. 

Fg. 

Fg. 

FFg.... 
FFFg.. 

No. 1.. . 


No. 1... 


FFg.... 
FFFg.. 

FFg.. .. 
FFFg.. 

FFg.... 
FFFg.. 

“ 2.. . 


“ 2... 


“ 3... 


“ 3... 































E.R.. 









Fine Ducking. 

Best Quality Sporting. 

Oriental 

Orange. 

Hazzard 

Dupont. 

Oriental 

Orange. 

Hazzard 

Dupont. 

Falcon 
& Wild 
Fowl. 
No. 4... 
“ 3... 
“ 2... 
" 1... 




Di’mond 
Grain. 
No. 4... 
“ 3... 
" 2... 
“ 1... 
Fg. 

Light¬ 
ning. 
No. 7. 
“ 6 
“ 5. 
“ 4. 

Electric. 


No. 5... 
“ 4... 
“ 3... 
“ 2... 

No. 5... 
“ 4... 
“ 3... 
“ 2... 

No. 1... 
“ 2... 
“ 3... 

No. 4.. . 


“ 3... 
“ 2... 

. 







Dia¬ 

mond 

Grain. 





FFg.... 







FFFg... 







O 




Dupont’s Eagle Rifle powder is the finest grain of sporting powder 
made; Oriental Falcon Sporting, No. 3 grain, is the nearest to it in 
size. 


















































































CHAPTER XXXIV. 


MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 

Soft Soldering .—Soft solder, so called, is a com¬ 
position made by melting together two parts tin 
and one part lead. If the gunsmith ever has occa¬ 
sion to use it, he will need a soldering fluid, which 
is made by dropping clippings of zinc into muriatic 
acid until ebullition has ceased, then adding to the 
acid its equal in bulk of pure w’ater, although some 
mechanics do not consider the addition of water as 
necessary. 

Clean thoroughly the parts to be soldered to¬ 
gether, then wet them with the soldering fluid. 
Next place in the joint a thin bit of the soft solder, 
and expose to heat, the heating agent to be clear of 
oil. The pieces should be held, pressed between the 
blades of large tweezers, so that when the solder 
melts the two parts will come directly together. So 
soon as the solder melts, the work must be taken 
from the fire, as the soldering will be complete. A 
little longer exposure would burn the solder and 
spoil the work. 

Good Soft Solder. —Good soft solder is composed 
of equal parts of pure tin and good soft lead. The 
lead from old tea-chests is excellent. Plumbers’ 
solder is often made of lead three parts and tin one 
part. 


MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES 


275 


Soldering Fluid .—A soldering fluid tur jewelers’ 
fese is made by adding to alcohol all the chloride of 
zinc it will dissolve. 

Brazing .—This consists in uniting iron and other 
hard-melting metals with a brass solder. Put the 
parts together as for soft soldering, lay the brass be¬ 
tween the pieces or along the upper edge of the 
joint, if it can be held vertically, and add a goodly 
supply of pulverized borax to act as a flux. Heat 
over a charcoal fire till the brass melts and runs 
down into the joint, then take from the fire and 
cool. Before beginning the operation of brazing 
the parts to be put together must be made entirely 
clean, and then freshly filed to brightness. 

To Braze Lugs on Gun Barrels .—When not prac¬ 
ticable to fasten the lugs by means of pins or rivets, 
hold them in place with binding wire. Take a piece 
of iron, say J inch thick and 2 inches or more in 
width, and make in it a slot some larger than the 
lug to be brazed. Lay the barrel on the iron side¬ 
ways, and pack up the lug so as to lie level, if 
necessary, also taking care that it is on straight. 
Pure copper is excellent for all kinds of brazing, 
when the color of the copper is not objectionable. 

Hard Soldering .—See “To Solder Brass,” in 
Chapter XII, which about covers the whole thing, 
varying only in the composition of the solder for 
different metals. The brass solder there described 
acts equally well for soldering copper, but for silver 
a solder is made composed of two parts silver and 
one part brass. 


276 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


Hard Solders. —1. A hard solder that is yellow 
and easily fusible is made of copper, parts, and 
zinc, parts. 

2. To hard solder iron use good tough brass or 
sheet copper, with borax as a flux. 

3. Pure copper, cut in thin strips, with borax as a 
dux, is excellent for brazing iron or steel. 

Alloy for Adhering to Iron or Steel .—Melt to¬ 
gether, tin 3 parts, zinc 7J parts, and copper 391- 
parts. Clean the iron or steel, file to brightness 
and cast the alloy upon it. The iron or steel should 
be heated up to about the melting temperature of 
the alloy. This alloy will adhere firmly to the 
other metal, and as its rate of expansion is about 
the same as the iron or steel, under all circum¬ 
stances, it will never come loose. It finishes up 
nicely and presents a very neat, light yellow ap¬ 
pearance. Some gunsmiths use it for brazing pur¬ 
poses on account of its adhesive properties and its 
ease of fusion. It does not make so strong a joint 
as brass or copper, and therefore would not give so 
“honest” a job. 

Gun Oil .—A good quality of sperm oil is undoubt¬ 
edly the best oil to apply to gun work, especially 
the locks. Any fine animal oil may be used as a 
substitute. The oil from the fat of the woodchuck 
or ground-hog is admired by many. Fine quality of 
sewing-machine oil is very good. It must not be 
thinned or “cut” with kerosene or benzine, as this 
reduces its wearing quality. It must not thicken 
with exposure to the cold. 


MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 


277 


Vegetable oils are- unfit for the locks of guns. 
Castor oil will gum up and become filthy in the ex¬ 
treme. Olive oil or u sweet oil” has very often 
been agitated, with common salt, nitric ether, sul¬ 
phuric acid or hydrochloric acid to keep it from be¬ 
coming rancid. Application of such oil, in addition 
to its bad lubricating quality, will rust and spoil 
work where applied. 

If desired to clarify oil, put in a bottle, say a 
quart of oil, and add about half a pound of fine lead 
shavings. In a short time the impurities will col¬ 
lect on the lead, when the clarified portion may be 
poured off. Let the bottle stand in the sun for two 
or three weeks during the process, and then filter 
through fine white blotting-paper. If some portion 
be found to congeal by cold, separate the clear por¬ 
tion from the other, reserving the uncongealed for 
use during exposure of the gun to cold weather. 

Gunsmith's Glue .—Dissolve four ounces of good 
glue in sixteen ounces of strong acetic acid by ex¬ 
posure to gentle heat. This is not exactly a liquid 
glue preparation—it is only semi-liquid. It may be 
kept for any length of time desired, and, when 
wanted for use, a slight warming up is all the prep¬ 
aration necessary. The gunsmith finds it not only 
very convenient, in case he should have occasion to 
use glue about his woodwork, but also very good. 


CHAPTER XXXV. 


ON JUDGING THE QUALITY OF GUNS. 

The Muzzle-Loading Shot-Gun .—In the days when 
the gun of this character was at its zenith, its quality 
could be approximately decided upon by a glance at 
the manufacturer’s brand which it bore,, but at 
present that rule cannot be so safely trusted. Many 
of the houses which built for themselves a fine 
reputation by the manufacture of fine guns of the 
muzzle-loading order, have either ceased to exist, or 
have gone exclusively into the manufacture of 
breech -loaders, consequently the old brands, though 
they may still be met with, are not reliable. In 
truth they are more often dangerous signs than 
otherwise, in consequence of the fact that unscrupu¬ 
lous manufacturers not unfrequently apply them 
surreptitiously as an agent to aid in working off 
their bogus goods. It is, therefore, best to give 
brands but little consideration in judging the quality 
of new muzzle-loaders, trusting mainly on personal 
knowledge as to what a good gun should be, backed 
up by thorough test in all cases where such a thing 
is necessary. 

The man capable of becoming a good gunsmith 
will require no special rules for his government in 
this matter. He will know that a steel gun is pre¬ 
ferable to an iron gun, and he will be able to readily 


ON JUDGING THE QUALITY OF GUNS. 279 

distinguish between steel and iron. He will also 
know that a gun finely finished in every particular, 
is, undoubtedly, a better gun than one put together 
in the rough, and his own eyes will quickly tell him 
as to the finish. Prompted by these considerations, 
the muzzle loading shot-gun is turned over to the 
good sense of the gunsmith for adjudgement as to 
superior or inferior qualities, leaving him to decide 
upon it, unbiased by any rules that could be given, 
which is the most rational course to pursue, since, 
under existing cirumstances it would be impossible 
to make rules that would be entirely reliable. 

The Muzzle-loading Rifle .—In the case of the old- 
fashioned Kentucky rifle, still on the market in 
limited numbers, eyesight and test, if necessary, will 
have to be the main reliance of the gunsmith in 
judging of quality. The barrel of a first-quality 
gun of this character is wrought iron, made eight- 
square, and finely finished. The lock is steel, well 
put up, and provided with double or set triggers. 
The stock is either black-walnut or maple highly 
polished and oil-finished. The bore is given as per¬ 
fect a degree of finish as iron is capable of taking, 
and the rifles are deeply-cut and entirely regular all 
the way through. The sights are made with great 
care, some of the finest guns having an elevating 
hind-sight to be changed for long or short range— 
say, for 500 or 50 yards. In some of the older made 
guns the foresights are silver, though as a general 
rule they are made of some kind of white metal 
compound not so liable to glimmer as silver. The 


280 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


tube-cylinder has a vent screw in the end of it, which 
may be taken out for the purpose of working in 
powder in case a ball should have been accidently 
put down without powder, which accident, without 
this provision, would be apt to necessitate an un¬ 
breeching of the gun. The barrels are of different 
lengths, ranging from 26 to 40 inches, and the size 
of bore is equally varied. It is usually estimated by 
the number of round bullets a pound of lead will 
cast to fit it, as 200 (smallest bore), 175, 100, and so 
on down to 50, which is considered the largest bore 
in common use. The weight of the gun complete 
usually ranges at from six to twelve pounds. 

A steel-barrel rifle made on the Kentucky plan 
may be met with occasionally, though not often. 
The steel barrel generally adds about five dollars in 
cost over that of the iron barrel finished in the same 
way, and is supposed to be at least that much better 
on account of less liability to wear and roughen 
in the bore. 

The muzzle-loading rifle of more modern style 
differs very materially from the old Kentucky rifle 
in many respects. Mr. Barber, in his “ Crack Shot,” 
says of it that so many changes are constantly tak¬ 
ing place, and opinions are so diversified, that it is 
really difficult to state what is the prevailing style; 
but he is of opinion that a barrel of from thirty to 
thirty-four inches in length, with a bore from thirty- 
eight hundreths inch to forty-four hundreths inch 
will be found to answer best for general purposes. 
If for sporting purposes exclusively the barrel ought 


ON JUDGING THE QUALITY OF GUNS. 281 

to be a little shorter, perhaps, though he believes the 
great hunters of the plains use rifles with barrels of 
from thirty five to forty inches in length, and of a 
calibre so small as to enable them to make sixty 
round balls out of one pound of lead. 

But, still adopting Barber, it is very difficult to 
lay down particular rules as to what a muzzle-load¬ 
ing rifle of modern style should be, as marksmen and 
gunmakers are both whimsical, and each has his set 
ideas and notions concerning the matter. Some ad¬ 
vocate a long barrel, while others maintain that any¬ 
thing beyond thirty-three inches militates against 
good shooting. 

There are many prominent establishments en¬ 
gaged in the manufacture of modem muzzle-loading 
rifles, some of them carrying splendid reputations, 
hence in this case a good deal of reliance can be 
placed upon brands. For instance, should a rifle be 
seen marked to Wesson, it is a guarantee of a good 
gun, for the reputation of the manufacturer is worth 
too much to admit of risking its tarnish by putting 
upon the market goods bearing his brand that are 
not fully up to all that is claimed for them. 

And now that reference has been made incidentally 
to Wesson, a description may as well be made of 
some of the peculiarities of his muzzle-loading rifle 
as presenting a fair sample of a first-class gun of this 
order. And to do this under the best of authority, 
reference is made to Mr. Chapman’s book on the 
Rifle, which is generally accepted as a standard 
work. 


282 


THE GUNSMITH'S MANUAL. 


Referring to the Wesson muzzle-loading rifle, Mr. 
Chapman says that the barrel is made of cast steel, 
not highly carbonized, but thoroughly annealed in 
an air-tight oven. The length of the barrel is two 
feet eight inches when the loading muzzle is off. 
Outside, the barrel tapers a little from breech to 
muzzle, the difference in diameter being one fourth 
of an inch. The barrel is not furnished with a rib, 
except it be that the short tube at the breech can be 
called a rib, the peculiarity of stocking doing away 
with the necessity for a regular rib. The gun has a 
patent breech, which is made of iron case-hardened. 
It is joined to the break-off by the old-fashioned 
hook, with the addition of a half-lap joint, secured 
by a square-headed screw. Such a mode of fasten¬ 
ing the barrel destroys the necessity for wood for¬ 
ward of the breech, and gives a peculiarly elegant 
and striking appearance to the arm. The loading- 
muzzle is put on by means of four steel wire pins 
about one-eighth of an inch in diameter and three- 
eighths long, and the holes for these pins are located 
as near the outside as possible. 

The grooves of this rifle are cut with a twist, 
which turns the bullet once in three feet six inches. 
There are six grooves, and the spaces between them 
are left entirely square to the interior surface, pre¬ 
senting a kind of dove-tail appearance. The grooves 
are not quite so wide as the spaces between them. 
The breech is furnished with a vent or breathing 
nipple, about the diameter of a common pin, and 
bushed with platinum. The lock has back-action, 


ON JUDGING THE QUALITY OF GUNS. 283 

furnished with a single set. The stock is of black 
walnut, made as straight as possible. It is fur¬ 
nished with a patch box, and also a small box to 
contain a wiper, which can be attached to the end 
of the ramrod. A globe sight is fixed into the stock, 
just behind the break-off, while a bead sight holds 
position at the muzzle-end of the barrel. The 
weight of the gun complete is ten pounds. 

Of course it will be clearly understood that this 
description is not offered as of the best muzzle¬ 
loading rifle made, but simply because it happened 
to be convenient to make. There are, doubtless, 
other guns equally as good, and a preference of one 
over the other, in all probability, would have to be 
born of circumstances, as something peculiar in the 
tastes or requirements of the person by whom the 
gun was to be used, or in the particular line of use 
to which it was to be applied. 

The Breech-loading Shot Gun .—Gloan tells us 
that, in judging the quality of a breech-loader, 
there are other things to be taken into consideration 
besides the mere shooting of the gun. First among 
these is its safety relative to the person using it. 
There is more machinery and complication about it 
than there is about the muzzle-loader, and to that 
extent, if not made upon sound principles, and per¬ 
fectly well made, it is more dangerous, to say noth¬ 
ing of being less durable. 

But the principle must be a prime consideration, 
for, if a gun, no matter how well made, is con¬ 
structed with a working movement which presents 


284 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


great strain and great friction, it must speedily wear 
out. Even the best breech-loader, with the soundest 
known action, must wear out sooner than would an 
arm of less complication, because some peculiar 
strain and friction cannot possibly be avoided; hence 
the great importance of passing judgment entirely 
favorable upon only the best. 

The first thing to decide upon, then, is the princi¬ 
ple upon which the gun works. No special rules 
can be given to govern in the formation of this deci¬ 
sion other than that simplicity is always worthy of 
favorable consideration—the greater the simplicity 
the better, provided it works to the full accomplish¬ 
ment of all the ends desired. Next to simplicity 
may be ranked durability, and next to this may 
come in good shooting and safety. These last two 
considerations are put as third and fourth, when 
many persons would be inclined to rank them as 
second and first. Why this is done is because many 
of the most common guns are safe enough, so far 
as that is concerned, while not a few of them shoot 
very well for a while. 

Some most excellent shooting has been done with 
extremely common guns, working upon a principle 
so complicated and so imperfect as to render it im¬ 
possible for them to remain in order beyond a com¬ 
paratively short length of time. 

The English manufacturers, of good reputation, 
take great pains with their breech-loading shot¬ 
guns; hence, until within a very few years, English 
guns were considered entirely superior to those of 


ON JUDGING THE QUALITY OP GUNS. 285 

American make, but now it is acknowledged, even 
by the English people, that in America we put up, 
at least, some guns that have no superiors. This 
last named fact lias somewhat destroyed the weight 
of English brands with persons who are looking for 
a gun of the very best quality. But the advance 
on the part of American gunmakers is not the only 
thing that has worked against the reputation of 
English guns for being eminently the best. The 
gun-making business of Belgium has seriously in¬ 
jured the general good name of English guns, just 
as the watch-making business of Switzerland has 
injured the good name of English watches. For 
instance, Liege, in Belgium, is almost literally a city 
of gunmakers. It is estimated that there are now 
more small fire-arms made in Liege than in all the 
rest of the world put together, though Leige gets 
credit for comparatively few of them. The differ¬ 
ent parts are manufactured there, and shipped to 
other countries as gunmakers’ materials, where they 
are put together and branded with the name of a 
maker who really played no part whatever in the 
making. In Liege each manfacturing house is de¬ 
voted to the manufacture of but a single part, 
knowing nothing whatever of the other parts man¬ 
ufactured at other establishments. As a result the 
gun made of Liege materials is simply a patchwork, 
and hence could not possibly be so reliable as a gun 
whose every part is made in the same establishment, 
and under the eye of the same general superintend¬ 
ent. England has gone largely into the putting up 


286 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


of these patchwork guns, simply for the reason 
that she can buy the Liege materials much 
cheaper than she can make them at home. This 
cheapness is due to the inferior materials used by 
the Liege manufacturers, and to the extremely low 
rate of wages in Belgium. It is asserted, upon 
good authority, that the English ‘ ‘ manufacturer ” 
can get his finished materials from Liege, paying 
regular Government duty, and put together what 
would appear to be a fair quality of double-barrel 
breech-loading shot-gun, at the cost of about seven 
dollars. And he does it, giving the gun to the mar¬ 
ket under his own brand, or surreptitiously under 
that of some other house known to be more reliable 
than his own. As a consequence, English reputa¬ 
tion is sadly injured as regards the business of 
making the best guns, and gunsmiths can no longer 
trust to English brands as a sure guarantee of 
first-class quality. Of course there are some Eng¬ 
lish manufacturers whom it will always do to trust, 
provided one knows to a certainty that the gun is 
really genuine. 

If that patchwork game is played in this country 
at all it is on a small scale as yet, and is confined to 
the cheapest guns. A gun from any of our promi¬ 
nent houses is quite sure to be as represented; and, 
until the gunsmith becomes so familiar with all the 
requirements of a good gun, the maker’s price may 
be taken as a pretty safe rule by which to judge of 
quality. Each manufacturing house is apt to have 
its guns graded, and priced accordingly—the higher 


ON JUDGING THE QUALITY OF GUNS. 287 

the price asked the better the gun in every case, for 
it is as much the desire of the prominent manufac¬ 
turer to make a good name as it is to make a good 
gun. 

Of course this rule can only be considered entirely 
safe in case where the scale of prices has been ob¬ 
tained directly from headquarters. Passing through 
half a dozen or so of middle houses might work 
important changes from the original price list. 

Where none of these rules can be brought to bear 
it is but natural that the inexperienced gunsmith 
should turn to his Manual for aid in forming judg¬ 
ment upon the quality of the gun. A few general 
ideas may not be out of place. 

All the movements of the action should be smooth, 
and all the joints should fit to perfection. The locks 
should have due consideration. When the hammer 
is drawn back it should come with less and less re¬ 
sistance as it rises, and vise versa when the hammer 
is let down, exerting its greatest power immediately 
on reaching the nipple or firing-pin. But this in¬ 
crease and decrease of power should be extremely 
gradual, and not great. Throughout the movement 
there should be a steadiness and freeness, or, as 
Gloan says, an oiliness, which when once realized, 
can never afterwards be mistaken. And when by a 
regular pressure upon the trigger the hammer is ex¬ 
pertly raised and lowered in rapid succession, the 
locks should emit a clear ringing sound at the whole 
and half-cock with the resonance and regularity of 
beats in music. When once heard, this, too, can 


288 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


never afterwards be mistaken. The locks which 
perform to perfection under the tests mentioned 
are technically said to “speak well.” 

Turning from the lock to the lever, the latter 
should close with such ease as not to require any 
particular exertion of the wrist, and when closed it 
should hold with such a degree of firmness as to 
place safety, while discharging the gun, entirely be¬ 
yond question. The wedges of the action should 
be fully and squarely set in the lump. 

If a pin gun the pin should fit in the hole with 
nicety. If too tight, the barrels might not close, or 
the pin might be held back to such an extent that 
the cap would not be exploded. If too loose an un¬ 
necessary escape of gas at the discharge would be 
unavoidable, to the discomfort of the gunner and 
the weakening of the shot. 

If a central fire the plungers should strike the 
centre of the cap unvaringly. The hammer should 
come upon the plunger with a blow—not a mere 
push. 

The countersink of the chambers, and the length 
and breadth of the action bed, should be closely ob¬ 
served. The countersink should be cut clean and 
deep enough to take the rim of the cartridge with¬ 
out leaving the slightest projection—else the gun 
will not shut perfectly. But if, on the contrary, the 
countersink be too deep the cartridge comes back on 
the breech before the charge makes its exit, which 
increases the recoil and renders accuracy less cer¬ 
tain. 


ON JUDGING THE QUALITY OF GUNS. 289 

The central fire strikers should not be too short, an 
imperfection which might cause the discharge of 
the gun while closing it. On the other hand, they 
should not be too long, as that would interfere with 
the free motion of the gun. In the case of a pin gun 
the pin should invariably stand in exact line with 
the hammer, otherwise the blow would be apt to 
bend it, and the chances for exploding the cap w T ould 
be less certain. 

There should be no crevices between the wood and 
iron. If any such crevice exists between the stock 
and the false breech it is likely that the wood was 
green when put up, which would settle it that the 
gun was not the work of a responsible maker, for 
no such person would work imperfectly-seasoned 
wood. 

The extractor of the central fire should never be 
permitted to escape the closest scrutiny. It should 
work without the slightest hitch, and its arms 
should enclose about one-half of the cartridge rim. 
The countersink should fit the rim precisely, in order 
that there may be no slipping. 

The Breech-Loading Rifle .—Most of the rules sug¬ 
gested as aids in forming judgment upon the qual¬ 
ity of the breech-loading shot gun, can be trusted as 
bearing with equal force in case of the breech-load¬ 
ing rifle. The makers of breech-loading rifles in the 
United States have won for themselves a noble rep¬ 
utation throughout the world; and, to be perfectly 
plain, there are very few unreliable manufacturers 
to be met with among them. As a consequence, 


290 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

there is not much risk to run in passing judgment 
upon a breech-loading rifle of American make. The 
first thing to decide upon is the principle, if there 
is a preference in this direction. Such decision 
brings up the gun of some particular maker, after 
which the road is easy enough —the price set upon 
the grade of gun by the maker, may always be ac¬ 
cepted as a clear indication of its quality. 

In referring thus to American rifles the idea is not 
advanced that good guns are not made in other coun¬ 
tries—such a position would be going wide of the 
truth. There are some gunmakers in England 
who turn out the finest rifles that the world has yet 
seen, and the most costly. They are models of per¬ 
fection in every particular, but when the best shoot¬ 
ing is ascertained it is discovered that they have not 
proven themselves superior in that respect, to the 
more substantial (generally speaking), but less finely 
finished and less expensive guns of the American 
makers. It is this matter of a really good rifle at 
comparatively low figures that has given the Ameri¬ 
can product such an enviable reputation throughout 
the world. 

Then there is another reason for favorable men¬ 
tion of American rifles in cases where the quality of 
the gun is to be judged—there are fewer chances for 
meeting with counterfeits on American guns than 
there are on guns of foreign make. Here the gun- 
maker is so deeply concerned in his own good name 
that it would be very unsafe to attempt running a 
“ bogus ” upon him—he would trace it to the “ last 


ON JUDGING THE QUALITY OP GUNS. 291 

ditch.” Not so in case of the English maker— 
having no direct interests thrown all over this coun¬ 
try like a network, as have the American makers, 
he would, in all probability, never hear of the bogus 
gun branded to him and sold on his good reputation 
for many times more than it was really worth. 

In case where there are no means of getting at the 
quality of a rifle from the grade affixed and tests 
made by a responsible manufacturer, the gunsmith 
will of course be forced to fall back upon his own 
resources. What these are we need not state. The 
gun must be subjected to a most critical examina¬ 
tion in every part, in obedience to rules laid down 
for examining breech-loading shot guns, after which 
its shooting qualities must be thoroughly tested. To 
no botch at the business can be trusted the shooting 
test, if it be wished to decide whether or not a cer¬ 
tain rifle can be recommended as being of first-class 
quality—the work must be performed at the hands 
of an expert, and it must be continued until is se¬ 
cured unmistakable jiroof as to how the gun shoots. 
When a man buys a good rifle he does it in the ex¬ 
pectation of becoming the owner of a gun qualified 
to shoot well, and, no matter how perfect it might 
be in all other respects, the slightest deficiency in 
this particular would be sure to rouse a high degree 
of uncompromising dissatisfaction. 


CHAPTER XXXVI. 


ON USING THE RIFLE. 

The Old Kentucky Rifle .—The old backwoods 
hunters who used the long Kentucky rifle, had 
really but a very imperfect idea of its capabilities. 
The gun was provided with a hind and a fore-sight, 
the latter a “bead” located near the muzzle and ris¬ 
ing but little above the common level of the surface 
of the barrel, and the former a small vertical plate 
set in the barrel a short distance in advance of the 
lock, and containing in the centre of its upper edge 
a fine slit through which to look at the “bead” in 
the act of taking aim. The hind-sight stood fur¬ 
ther above the barrel than the fore-sight, but why it 
so stood was something about which the owner sel¬ 
dom concerned himself. Of course the gunsmith 
knew it was for the purpose of setting the “aim” 
below the starting line of the bullet, in order that 
the natural curve in its flight might be accommo¬ 
dated, but this was usually a secret of the gun¬ 
smiths which nobody cared to possess. The sight 
was immovable, could neither be raised nor love¬ 
ered, consequently the gun could not be adapted to 
circumstances of long or short range. The eleva¬ 
tion of the sight usually crossed the line of vision 
and that of the flight of the bullet at about one 
hundred yards distance, hence the shooting at 


ON USING THE RIFLE. 


293 


shorter range was apt to be a little too high and too 
low at longer range. At two hundred yards it was 
merely accidental, though the bullet struck with a 
degree of force apparently unabated at that distance. 
If the hunter killed his game at two hundred yards, 
he did it by aiming a few feet too high for a ‘ ‘sight’’ 
at one hundred yards, consequently he never shot 
at that distance so long as there was a prospect of 
being able to creep nearer. And yet, with the right 
kind of elevated sight the gun would have been 
equally as effectual at two hundred yards as at one 
hundred ; in truth it would have been good for four 
and perhaps six hundred yards, but the old hunter 
had not so much as a dream of any such thing, but 
went creeping about through the woods endeavoring 
to steal upon his game, unconsciously carrying upon 
his shoulder an instrument that with so simple a 
contrivance as an elevated sight of proper grade 
might have brought it down almost as far as the 
eye could have seen it. And the game well knew 
the limited capacity of his gun, particularly the 
deer, which would frisk off to the distance of about 
three hundred yards and there stop, turn around, 
stamp their feet and “ whistle ” at him in apparent 
derision. Ah ! that he had understood the real 
capabilities of his gun, and had suddenly invented 
and applied an elevated or long-range sight made 
after some of the approved modern plans, how he 
w r ould have astonished them ! 

In those days of pioneer life in the States now no 
longer on the frontier, “match shooting ” (it was 


294 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


not called target shooting, then) was always con 
fined to a certain distance, sixty yards off-hand or 
one hundred yards with a rest. The marksman was 
permitted to take his own choice of modes. “ Shoot¬ 
ing matches ” were very common in those earlier 
times, usually for beef. A fat ox was put up to be 
shot for at so much per shot, something on the plan 
of the modern raffle. When the amount asked 
for the animal had been made up, the shooting 
commenced. The best shot took first choice, which 
was one of the hind quarters of the ox, the second 
best took second choice, which was the other hind 
quarter ; the third best took third choice, which was 
one of the fore quarters, and so on to the fifth 
choice, which consisted of the hide and tallow. 
Happy occasions, indeed, were those old “shooting 
matches,” and splendid, indeed, was some of the 
shooting. A regular attendance upon numerous 
target matches of more modern times, with all the 
modern appliances, in the hands of marksmen with 
national reputations, has never shown us better 
shooting at sixty yards, off-hand, or one hundred 
yards with a rest. 

General Directions.— Mr. Edward C. Barber, au¬ 
thor of the “Crack Shot,” says the greatest care 
and nicety is required in loading any kind of rifle, 
if we desire to have it shoot with accuracy. A few 
grains too much or too little powder will alter the 
range of the bullet, and the bullet itself, if not 
placed in the barrel exactly right, in the case of the 
muzzle-loader, will come out at an irregular angle, 


ON USING THE RIFLE. 


295 


and, instead of going straight to the mark, will be 
turned sideways. This trouble is avoided by the 
use of a u starter,” to be had at any gun store. 

Supposing that a young man has just possessed 
himself of a rifle, but who knows nothing of its use 
save such information as he has been able to gather 
from mere theorists. He makes choice of a suitable 
place for taking his first practical lesson, where 
there is no danger of inflicting harm upon disinter¬ 
ested persons. He puts up his target and steps off 
fifty yards, or it might be better to measure it more 
accurately than by stepping. 

Suppose the gun to be a first-class modern muzzle- 
loader. The target is now arranged; proceed to 
load. Grasp the barrel of the gun near the muzzle; 
turn it round so that the lock is outward, then pour 
from the flask the proper charge of powder, using 
the charger which the gunmaker has furnished. Be 
sure that the charger is exactly full—no more nor 
less. Pour the powder gently down the barrel, 
holding the latter upright so that none of the powder 
will lodge in the grooves or rifles. Get ready a 
‘‘patch,” which has been previously prepared by 
oiling on one side a piece of fine but substantial 
linen with sperm oil such as is used for sewing ma¬ 
chines, and cutting out with a “ patch-cutter,” 
always to be had with a new gun. Place this patch 
over the muzzle, oiled side downward, and then set 
the bullet perfectly straight and true in the muzzle, 
and with the “ starter” press it downward two or 
three inches, using the ramrod to force it home. 


296 THE gunsmith’s manual. 

Avoid the common error of “ramming” home the 
bullet, for two reasons: firstly, because the bullet 
being jammed on the powder meals and grinds it, 
thereby depriving it of a portion of its strength, and, 
secondly, because injury is done to the face of the 
ball, which works against its taking a perfectly true 
and accurate flight. The old plan of making the ram¬ 
rod rebound to prove that the ball was home, as men¬ 
tioned in another chapter, was w r rong. Nothing 
more than a moderate pressure is necessary, and if 
you are not willing to trust to this a mark on your 
ramrod, to come exactly to the muzzle when the 
ball is entirely down, will always tell the tale. Now 
place a cap on the tube or nipple, which is, doubt- 
less, full of powder, and the “shootist” is ready for 
operations. 

There are two modes of shooting with a rifle: off¬ 
hand, and with a rest, as has already been inti¬ 
mated. Choose the mode that suits best, and begir 
practice. 

Off-liand Shooting .—Barber says the position 
which should be chosen for off-hand shooting is one 
that admits of a good deal of discussion. There is 
great difference of opinion on the subject, some good 
shots contending that they never could see any dif¬ 
ference in their shooting, whether they were in one 
position or the other; while others maintain that it 
is absolutely necessary to good shooting that certain 
fixed rules should be adhered to. There are three 
recognized methods of firing, viz., the British or 
Hythe position, the Swiss position and the Ameri- 


ON USING THE RIFLE. 


297 


can position. In the first named, the rifleman 
stands perfectly erect, head slightly bent forward, 
feet at right angles to each other, the left advanced 
about twelve inches, the right arm raised well up, 
the left hand advanced so as to take a firm yet easy 
grip of the rifle, the butt of which is to be pressed 
firmly agains' the right shoulder, the right hand 
grasping firmly the small of the stock. Captain 
Heaton describes the second method, or Swiss posi¬ 
tion, by stating that no particular manner of placing 
the feet is required. The whole body is kept per¬ 
fectly rigid, the chest expanded as much as possible, 
against which the left elbow is allowed to rest, the 
rifle being held with the left hand as near the trig¬ 
ger guard as it can be placed. The Swiss rifles have 
i kind of handle provided for this purpose. The 
upper part of the body is thrown back. Before 
firing the Swiss marksman invariably takes a long, 
deep inspiration, which he holds until the bullet has 
left his rifle, when he breaks the suspension with a 
loud grunt of satisfaction if the shot happens to 
please him. In the American position, to draw 
again from Barber, the legs are kept wide apart, 
body slightly bent backward, the left shoulder a 
little back; with the left hand he grasps the rifle 
well out, bringing the arm nearly under the the barrel, 
so as to form a support; the right arm is thrown out 
square, similar to the style adopted in the English 
position. The butt of the rifle is not pressed against 
the shoulder, but in the hollow between the biceps 
muscle and the shoulder. Cleveland prefers this 


298 


THE GUNSMITH'S MANUAL. 


method to that of the English, but Barber does not, 
as he considers it more constrained than the other. 

But, of course, great men must differ ; the world 
could not get along all right vrere it otherwise. The 
matter of method had best be left to stand as a mat* 
ter of taste, or of feeling as to convenience to the 
marksman, as very good shooting has been done 
through all of them. 

Having settled this point, bring the rifle up care¬ 
fully into position, the eye being steadily fixed upon 
the object to be fired at; slowly raise the barrel until 
the sights and the object are in direct line, and the 
instant that this condition is fully apparent press 
upon the trigger, still keeping the eye steadily on 
the mark. 

It is alwavs best to hold the breath at the instant 
•/ 

of firing; and in pressing the trigger the forearm 
alone should act, the arm and wrist being station¬ 
ary. No other movement of the body or any mem¬ 
ber thereof should take place between the time of 
securing aim and discharging the gun. The aim 
should be quickly taken—a long dwell, with wab- 
blings on and wabblings off the mark is apt to do 
more harm than good. On this point Frank For¬ 
rester says: “Though it is necessary to get a sure 
aim before firing, it is not necessary to dwell on it 
before doing so. Every second between having 
taken true sight and the giving fire is a second lost, 
or worse than lost; for the longer the rifle is held to 
the face, the greater the tension of the muscles and 
nerves, and the likelier are both to shake and give 


ON USING THE RIFLE. 


299 


way. The first true sight is always, with all fire¬ 
arms, the best sight, and a quick shot has as much 
or more advantage over a slow shot, with the rifle 
as with any other weapon.” Barber says he con¬ 
siders ‘ ‘ the pull of the trigger a very important con¬ 
sideration; it should not be too slight, so as to go 
off almost involuntarily, nor so hard as to require 
force, but so that, by a gentle pressure, commenced 
at the moment of taking aim, the slightest extra 
squeeze will cause the hammer to fall at the very 
instant when the aim is perfected.” 

Rest Shooting .—If the old-fashioned backwoods 
hunters shot with a rest at all that rest had nothing 
complicated about it, being usually only the side of 
a tree. The rifle was brought up against the side of 
a tree and pressed there with the left hand, which 
held it pretty much after the plan employed in the 
American method of off-hand shooting. If the ob¬ 
ject to be fired at was occupying an elevated posi¬ 
tion, as a squirrel among the branches of a neigh¬ 
boring tree, this kind of rest was a very easy and 
good one, but it was not so easy where a horizontal 
shot had to be made. In match-shooting with a 
rest the most common plan was to lie upon the 
ground, face downward, somewhat in the natural 
position of a swimmer, and put the gun out in front, 
its muzzle resting upon a small log or block of wood. 
These plans are still more or less in vogue in all 
regions where the old-style Kentucky rifle remains 
in common use. 

The most popular modern rest, according to Bar- 


300 


THE GUNSMITH'S MANUAL. 


ber, is to have a bench made about three and a half 
feet long and ten inches wide, with four stout legs 
standing out at considerable angle. The height 
should be about level with the breast when sitting 
down. At one end place a stout piece of wood 
about five or six inches high, crosswise, with 
notches cut in it to lay the barrel in. It should be 
well covered with cloth or some other soft material, 
and should be securely fastened to the bench. The 
end of the bench nearest the shooter may be hol¬ 
lowed out a little for the breast to fit in. This is a 
rest for target shooting—it would not be well suited 
for the hunter to carry around in the woods with 
him, of course. 

The same authority tells how to make a cheaper 
rest, by tying three moderately stout sticks together 
near the top, and then throwing out the other ends 
upon the ground after the manner of the feet of a 
tripod. Place your coat in the crotch formed at the 
top to rest your rifle upon—that is all there is 
of it. 

Having decided upon the kind of rest to be used, 
the question of rest-shooting is settled, as everything 
else is performed the same as in shooting off-hand. 
Most modern sportsmen object to rest-shooting to 
such an extent that no artificial rest is admitted at 
their target matches. Their reasons for such objec¬ 
tions are that a rest is an inconvenient arrangement 
that could not be employed either in war or field- 
sports, and hence, people ought to learn to shoot 
well without it. And they do, but in many in- 


ON USING THE RIFLE. 


301 


stances they shoot with a rest at last, making one 
of themselves by lying upon the ground and shoot¬ 
ing oft the knee or some other part of the person, 
or by setting the elbows upon the ground so as to 
brace with the gun as permanently as any artificial 
rest could possible be. The methods employed by 
the noted marksmen, Messrs. Fulton and Bodine, 
were of this character. 


CHAPTER XXXVII. 


ON USING THE SHOT-GUN. 

Born Shooters .—Every man who uses a gun at all 
will feel an ambition to use it skillfully, and when 
he finds himself falling short of his aspirations he 
will apply to his gunsmith for instructions, for the 
gunsmith is expected to set the owner all right as 
well as his gun. There will be some difference in 
results to the gunsmith, however, for when the gun 
gets out of fix, and the gunsmith repairs the imper¬ 
fections, the owner expects to pay for services ren¬ 
dered, but not so with reference to himself. He will 
expect the gunsmith to spend an hour or so in tell¬ 
ing him how to shoot, but it will not occur to him 
that time is worth the same in dollars and cents 
spend it as we may, hence he will never think of 
tendering the slightest remuneration for the time 
consumed in giving him instructions. We have 
often thought that a chapter in some book telling 
about all there is to tell the novice on the subject of 
shooting would be worth a great deal to the gun¬ 
smith, as he could turn it over to his inquiring cus¬ 
tomers and go on about his work, leaving them to 
sift out from the “black and white” the inform¬ 
ation desired, taking their own time for it, and 
digesting everything in accordance with their own 
notions. And right here, it may be remarked, is a 


ON USING THE SHOT-GUN. 


303 


proper place to put in just such a chapter, which is 
done without further preface. 

Some popular writer has said that, like the poet, 
the first-class shot with a gun, or the “dead shot.” 
as he is often called, must be born such—he cannot 
be made. Good shooting is a fine art, and in none 
of the fine arts can perfection be acquired where 
there does not exist a natural talent, or natural 
capacity, if the term be better. Any man with fair 
calculation and a reasonably good mechanical eye 
may, by practice, become a very passable shot, but 
without this peculiar natural requirement, which 
no one can clearly explain, it will be impossible for 
him to ever excel as an expert marksman. 

It is not often that a real born shot is met with— 
they are about as scarce as true poets and true 
painters. When one does meet with him one soon 
knows him, if there is any shooting going on. Per¬ 
haps he is at his first shooting match. He does not 
know himself as a “shootist,” possibly. Curiosity 
alone, it may be, prompts him to try a shot, so he 
takes the gun, and wholly without study or previous 
experience, blazes away, and, to the astonishment 
of all present, shoots almost to perfection. It is in 
him as a gift. Some peculiar balance in his organ¬ 
ization is the cause of it, and it is folly to be envious 
even in the least degree. Nor is it worth while to 
despair because such a peculiar balance of organiza¬ 
tion did not happen to fall to ‘ ‘ our ” lot. If there be 
a wish to succeed, a little patient study, industry 
and practice may soon bring the “shootist” up to 


304 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


the average at least, and that will leave no reason* 
able cause for complaint. 

How to Shoot .—This part of the subject need not 
be brought down to the simple operation of merely 
discharging a gun, for it is supposed that every per¬ 
son with common sense, and old enough to handle a 
gun would know how to discharge it when loaded. 
What is meant, then, by “how to shoot,” is how to 
shoot well, and to enable any one to do this, one of 
the most important requisites lies in taking aim on 
the object at which is expected to be shot. Most 
young gunners close one eye in this operation, 
which, according to the best authorities, is entirely 
wrong. A man will learn to take correct aim with 
a shot-gun much sooner by keeping both eyes natu¬ 
rally open than he will by holding one closed. Once 
got in the habit of shooting with a closed eye, it 
will be found a most difficult habit to break up—the 
“hiding eye” will “close up” just as the finger is 
being pressed upon the trigger. And with that 
“ closing up ” is very apt to come a deviation of the 
gun from the line of correct aim. 

Some years ago Mr. Dougall, in his “Shooting 
Simplified,” advanced many strong arguments in 
favor of shooting with both eyes open, basing them 
upon correct science. He says the person who takes 
aim with one eye closed has robbed himself of half 
his vision. The single open eye cannot see the 
whole of the object at which it looks, but only a 
part, or one side of it. Then, it requires the use of 
both eyes to see and calculate distance correctly. 


ON USING THE SHOT-GUN. 


305 


One eye may outline a thing, but it calls for the 
employment of two eyes to give it a perfect per¬ 
spective. 

When an object is hastily caught within the 
range of both eyes, the sense of vision is instantly 
assured as to position of the object, its distance 
from the gun, and, if moving, the rate of speed at 
which it is going. By a mental operation the brain 
is promptly impressed with all this, giving confi¬ 
dence and, consequently, calmness. Here the main 
point favoring success has been attained—calmness 
and a strong belief that the shot is going to succeed. 
The moment when this is felt is the one in which to 
press upon the trigger. It means that a correct 
sight is secured, whether there be time to think 
about it or not, and hence an instantaneous dis¬ 
charge of the gun is almost sure to bring down the 
game. 

Since beginning to write this book one of the 
authors interviewed a wonderfully successful sports¬ 
man with reference to his mode of taking aim at 
birds on the wing. ‘‘Why, bless your soul!” said he, 
“ I never take aim at all. I throw my gun in range 
of the bird, look at the bird with both eyes open, 
and the moment a feeling comes over me that I 
shall kill the bird if I shoot, I pull the trigger, and 
it’s about always my bird.” So it is. But this ex¬ 
pert is evidently mistaken with reference to taking 
aim: he takes aim mechanically. He thinks only 
about killing the bird, without thinking about tak¬ 
ing aim, and in response to the securing of a perfect 


30G 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


aim comes the feeling, unexplained in his thoughts, 
that if he shoots he shall kill the bird. It is simply 
a powerful concentration of thought, which is 
always of paramount importance in shooting. A 
mind scattering over all creation at the time of 
shooting is no more to be depended upon for good 
results than a gun scattering to all sides of a ten- 
acre field. There must be concentration in both 
cases. A man cannot buy goods, grow crops, swap 
horses, make poetry, edit a newspaper and kill birds 
on the wing with unvarying success all at the same 
instant. 

Brewster on the Use of Tivo Eyes .—As the novice 
who has not devoted much thought to the subject 
of shooting, will be apt to feel some surprise at the 
idea of the use of both eyes being recommended in 
taking aim, the liberty will be assumed of quoting a 
paragraph from the writings of Sir David Brewster, 
offering it as evidence in substantiation of the fore¬ 
going position. In his able work on the Stereoscope 
he says: “ When we look with both eyes open at a 
sphere, or any other solid object, we see it by uniting 
into one two pictures—one as seen by the right, and 
the other as seen by the left eye. If we hold up a 
thin book perpendicularly, and midway between 
both eyes, we see distinctly the back of it and both 
sides with the eyes open. When we shut the right 
eye, we see with the left eye the back of the book 
and the left side of it; and when we shut the left 
eye, we see with the right eye the back of it and the 
right side. The picture of the book, therefore, which 


ON USING THE SHOT-GUN. 


307 


we see with both eyes, consists of two dissimilar 
pictures united, namely, a picture of the back and 
left side of the book as seen by the left eye, and a 
picture of the back and right side of the book as 
seen by the right eye.” 

This argues that the sportsman who closes one 
eye at the time of taking aim at an away-going 
bird, really has a very imperfect view of it—but 
half a picture, as it were—hence the aim could not 
possibly be so perfect as in case where the picture 
was rendered more distinct by the use of both eyes, 
in accordance with the clear explanation of Sir 
David, who goes on to state: 

“ But though we see with one eye the direction 
in which any object or point of an object is situated, 
we do not see its position or the distance from the 
eye at which it is placed. In monocular vision we 
learn from experience to estimate all distances, but 
particularly great ones, by various tests, which are 
called the criteria of distance, but it is only with 
both eyes that we can estimate with anything like 
accuracy the distance of objects not far from us. 

‘ ‘ The most important advantage which we derive 
from the use of two eyes is to enable us to see dis¬ 
tance, or a third dimension in space. That this 
vision is not the result of experience as monocular 
vision is, is obvious from the fact that distance is 
seen as perfectly by children as by adults; and it has 
been proved by naturalists that animals newly-born 
appreciate distance with the greatest correctness.” 

DougalVs Reasoning. —Mr. Dougall says, in his 


308 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


“Shooting Simplified,” that “A thorough good gun 
will knock over a hare running broadside, with four 
or five shots at seventy yards distance, but full ele • 
vat ion must be taken, and the gun fired with the 
head well raised and the eyes kept steady on the 
aim, not taking sight along the rib, with the eye 
well down behind the breech, as has been erro¬ 
neously recommended. 

“ Distance requires elevation in proportion. A 
rifle is fitted with graduated sights to meet this, but 
the elevation of the rib of a fowling-piece is fixed 
and immovable. But by a simple law of perspec¬ 
tive, when you look at a hare (or any other object) 
seventy yards away, bringing mechanically the sight 
to bear upon it, you have the breech of the gun 
lower than if it were only forty yards off; whereas, 
if you adopt the one-eye system, you fire at exactly 
the same elevation at all distances. It would be as 
absurd to take a level aim along the rib at seventy 
yards as it would be to fire a rifle at a mark at two 
hundred yards with the sight set for one hundred. 

“ While everything has been done to increase the 
range of the fowling-piece, nothing has been done 
to give the elevation necessary to take full advan¬ 
tage of the increase of power. As long as the one- 
eye system of shooting is adopted, the object, if hit 
at all, will be struck only by outside weak pellets, 
and not by the effective central shot. 

‘ ‘ The proper way is to throw the gun well up and 
into the shoulder; the setting off of the stock will 
then bring the gun right in front of the face ; and, 


ON USING THE SHOT-GUN. 


309 


the head being erect, and both eyes fixed intently on 
the object, the line of motion is commanded, and 
the aim taken instinctively. The central pellets 
have thus an allowance given them to compensate 
for distance and the motion of the object. You look 
along the imaginary line, higher at the breech ac 
cording to distance, and at this elevation the gun is 
fired, exactly as a rifle target-shooter sets his breech 
sights to a given distance. 

‘ ‘ How does a man drive a nail ? Certainly not by 
closing one eye and looking along the hammer; but 
with both eyes open, he mechanically balances the 
hammer and strikes instinctively, never, if accus¬ 
tomed to the use of the tool, missing his aim. It is 
the same in shooting.” 

Coming directly to the subject of employing binoc¬ 
ular vision in taking aim to shoot, Mr. Dougall 
quotes from a paper in Once-a - Week to the effect 
that monocular vision, while much employed for 
this purpose, cannot at all be depended upon. To 
prove this position, place upon a table an empty 
small-mouthed vial, and taking another similar vial 
full of water in one hand, shut an eye and approach 
the vial upon the table; when apparently near- 
enough, stretch out your arm quickly and endeavor 
to pour the water from the full vial into the other, 
still keeping the eye closed. You will be very apt 
to find, as the water comes down, that it is missing 
the mouth of the empty vial on account of a miscal¬ 
culation, due to monocular vision. Now repeat the 
operation with both eyes open, and if care is exer- 


310 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


cised success will be the invariable result. A similar 
miscalculation will be shown to the person who en¬ 
deavors to approach and snuff a candle with one eye 
shut. 

Mr. Dougall thinks there can be no reasonable 
question as to the advantages of learning to use the 
shot-gun with both eyes open. This has been 
proven time and again by the most rigid tests. It is 
even a settled fact that the nearer the eyes of an 
individual set together in the head the less he is 
likely to shoot well. “ And yet,” says Mr. Dougall, 
“how strange it is to find sportsmen who would 
still further narrow this fine provision of nature 
into the diameter of one retina only. Throwing the 
fowling-piece into a line with the object of aim by 
an instinctive effort, keeping both eyes firmly fixed 
on and following the flight of the object, is the first 
great principle in shooting well.” 

Gloan on Taking Aim .—The clever author of a 
neat little book entitled “The Breech-Loaders,” 
tells us that when the shot leave the gun the pow * 
der which propels the pellets has started them with 
sufficient force to keep them up for a short time 
against all natural resistances acting upon them, 
but finally gravitation, which is pulling upon them 
all the time, begins to tell, and carry them down¬ 
ward from the line upon which they set out. 

“ The shot have a journey to perform after they 
leave the gun, and before they reach the bird. It 
may be a long journey or a short journey, accord¬ 
ing to the distance of the bird; but still it is a jour- 


ON USING THE SHOT-GUN. 


311 


ney, and it takes some time to do it in. While the 
shot are traveling on their way, the bird is flying on 
his way. If the bird is flying across the shooter, 
and the aim is at the bird, naturally, by the time 
the shot get to the point of aim, the bird has gone 
on beyond it, and is untouched by the shot. And if 
the distance is great, gravitation has affected the 
shot and pulled them down below the point of aim. 
Possibly, too, the wind is strong, and has blown 
them a little to one side. So that, assuming that a 
sportsman aims steadily and exactly at a cross-fly¬ 
ing bird, sixty yards distant, going a mile a minute, 
the gun making a pattern good enough to kill, 
what results ? 

‘ ‘ When the shot arrive at their point of destina¬ 
tion they are from eight to ten feet behind the point 
to which the bird has flown; and they are from ten 
to twelve inches below the line upon which the bird 
was flying. If the wind is high they are blown 
aside, even on the lower line, and the other pellets 
become harmless if they hit. The bird escapes, as 
a matter of surprise to the young sportsman, who 
is confident that he ‘ covered it exactly. ’ 

‘ ‘ He did cover it, literally, and exactly, and that 
was the cause of the miss. If he had aimed the 
length of a fence rail ahead of the bird and half the 
length above it, he would probably have brought it 
down. As the shot was, however, the bird was 
sure to be lost. 

“ An old shot will shine on range and allowance. 
His eye will measure distance as though with a 


312 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

tape-line. He will estimate velocity as with a regis- 
tering instrument. He makes his cheek an index 
of the wind, and before his gun is at his shoulder he 
has decided with unfailing skill where the aim must 
be, and there he plants the load. If the bird does 
not fall it is the gun’s fault, not his. 

‘ ‘ By the binocular vision these difficulties, which 
are so trying to the novice, are the more readily 
overcome. The eyes take in the flight of the bird, 
and convey the rate of speed at which it flies. The 
full distance of the whole perspective of the land¬ 
scape is made palpable to the sense, and the finger 
responds to the call, which is made all the more 
quickly and all the more truly because of the cer¬ 
tainty which the eyes impart.” 


CHAPTER XXXVIII. 


ON USING THE PISTOL. 

Natural Talent .—The number of persons who are 
really good shots with the pistol is smaller than one 
would be apt to suppose after considering how many 
weapons of this kind are in every-day use. They 
are almost as common as pocket-knives, and some 
of them are capable of shooting reasonably well at 
considerable length of range, and yet not an aver¬ 
age of one man in five hundred, who owns a pistol, 
could be found, perhaps, who could put fifty per 
cent, of his bullets through a hat set up for a target 
ten paces away. The fact is, the pistol, while capa¬ 
ble enough, if well made, is the most difficult of all 
our fire-arms to manage, so far as relates to good 
performances. There are men who can take a good 
revolver and shoot a chicken’s head off every time, 
ten or fifteen paces, but of such men there are not 
very many. And none of them have ever commun¬ 
icated how they happened to become such fine shots 
with the pistol. In some cases they had practiced a 
good deal, but not more than had hundreds who 
were but comparatively poor performers. To come 
squarely down to the point at once, the peculiarity 
which made them good shots with the pistol was a 
“born-gift,” as in the case of the best shots with 


314 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


the shot gun. Any man who practices with the 
pistol, in accordance with the established rules gov¬ 
erning its use for best results, may soon become a 
fair shot, but it calls for more than mere practice to 
make him an excellent shot. 

Taking Aim .—The best shots do not take aim by 
sighting along the barrel of the pistol, holding it out 
at arm’s length after the manner of the wooden 
figure standing in front of the city shooting-gallery. 
They do not close one eye and turn sideways to the 
object of aim like the ideal duelist, but they hold 
out the pistol, look at the object (not the pistol), 
with both eyes open, and blaze away, usually put¬ 
ting the bullet about where they want it to go. 
There is really no aim-taking in the case, any more 
than there is in the case of a boy playing at marbles. 
Indeed, shooting a pistol to the best advantage is 
very much on the same principle as shooting a mar¬ 
ble. The boy takes the marble properly between 
his thumb and first finger, holds out his hand in the 
direction of the marble to be shot at, but consider¬ 
ably below his line of vision, looks at the object- 
marble with both eyes open and 4 4 flips ” in obedience 
to the promptings of a kind of unconscious calcula¬ 
tion as to distance, force at command, effect of 
gravitation, and so on. The marble 44 flipped” curves 
out on its way, and, if shot from the hand of a skill¬ 
ful player, strikes its mark with astonishing cer¬ 
tainty. Just so with the bullet sent from the pistol; 
under the management of a skillful performer it 
goes in obedience to an unconscious calculation, and 


ON USING THE PISTOL. 


315 


not in obedience to the squinting of one eye along 
the barrel. Sight-taking won’t do in either case^ 
the good marble player would be a hopeless failure 
if he held up his arm to his line of vision and took 
sight every time he went to “shoot”—the pistol- 
shooter who performs upon the same plan is invari¬ 
ably a marksman of sterling uncertainty, to say the 
least. 

Cane Aiming .—Some people are so deficient in 
the species of calculation necessary to successful pis¬ 
tol-shooting, on the plan suggested in the foregoing, 
that they cannot do much at it. Such as these have 
some excuse for taking sight, but holding the pistol 
out at arm’s length and sighting along the barrel or 
through its “sights” rarely gives them more than 
very little certainty. The best method of actually 
taking sight with a pistol is performed in connection 
with a rod some three feet long—usually with a 
walking cane. Grasp the grip of the pistol in the 
right hand, in the usual way, and take the cane in 
the left hand. Bring the handle of the cane up 
against the shoulder like the breech of a gun, pass 
the pistol down along the side of it till the barrel 
reaches the left hand, and both hands are in easy 
position. Hold the cane between the thumb and first 
finger of the left hand, letting them pass beyond it 
and grip the barrel of the pistol between the end of 
the thumb and the turned-up end of the finger. Let 
the thumb and first finger of the right hand also 
grip the cane beyond the “grip ” of the pistol. The 
aim of the pistol should range a little to the right of 


316 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


the direction pointed by the cane, which it will very 

naturally do. 

•/ 

This plan steadies the pistol and affords as fine an 
opportunity of taking perfect sight as one could 
have with a rifle. A little practice with it, to en¬ 
able one to arrive at a certain conclusion as to the 
rise or fall of the bullet, will soon pave the way for 
pretty fair shooting. A kind of clasp with which to 
fasten the pistol to the cane is now on the market, 
and may be made to work very well, though some 
would always prefer holding the pistol with the 
hands, in the manner just described. 

The Best Pistols to Use .—It is not advisable to say 
a recommendatory word about any particular make 
—how could it be done, under the above heading, 
when there are twenty or thirty really good pistols 
now before the the public under the brand of the 
same number of different manufacturers ? The best 
pistol for any person to use is any good pistol that 
this person happens to like, and no other kind. All 
pistols do not shoot alike, and, hence, when any one 
has practiced with a certain kind until accustomed 
to its peculiarities they had better stick to it, as a 
change would be apt to throw at least some derange¬ 
ment in the shooting calculations, putting them 
under the necessity of a repeated practice. All the 
best shots invariably stick to some particular make 
of pistol, and usually to some particular size. 

In making choice of a size it is best to be gov¬ 
erned by the character of work the pistol is desired 
to perform. The large pistols shoot stronger, and, 


317 


ON USING THE PISTOL. 

as a general rule, with greater accuracy than the 
small ones; still, comparatively small pistols are 
sometimes known to shoot reasonably well. They 
are intended only for short range, however, and 
hence must not be depended upon when a good per¬ 
formance of long-range pistol shooting is desired. 
The large pistol has many advantages over the small 
one, while the latter can claim but two over the 
former. These two consist in its lightness, fitting 
it to figure as a pocket pistol, and in the lesser cost 
of its ammunition. 


CHAPTER XXXIX. 


VOCABULARY OF MECHANICAL TERMS USED BY GUN- 

MAKERS. 

Action. —The iron bed attached to the stock of a 
breech-loading gun, into the recess of which the 
lump descends and is secured. The term is used 
generally as “side action,” “snapaction,” etc. The 
word is also used to indicate the different form of 
gun locks, as back-action, bar-action, front-action, 
etc. 

Anneal .—To render more soft, as in the case of 
iron and other metals. 

Auxiliary Rifle. —A rifle-barrel some twenty inches 
in length, and so arranged that, like a cartridge, it 
may be slipped within the barrel of a breech loading 
shot-gun, thus at once converting the shot-gun into 
a rifle. The rifle-barrel, charged with its cartridge, 
may be placed in the shot-gun in a moment and at 
pleasure. 

Back-action Lock .—A lock that is located entirely 
back of the barrel, being bedded in the stock alone. 

Bar-action Lock .—When the lock is bedded partly 
back of the barrel and partly along side of it. 

Barrel .—The iron or steel tube of the gun through 
which the charge passes in the act of firing. 

Barrel-loop .—A metallic loop under the barrel, 


VOCABULARY OF MECHANICAL TERMS. 319 

through which a small bolt passes to hold the barrel 
into the stock. 

Bents. —The notches in the tumbler of a gun- 
lock. 

Black-Walnut .—A tree, native to North America, 
whose wood is extensively used in the manufacture 
of fine gun stocks; the Juglans nigra of botanists. 

Binocular Vision .—Seeing with two eyes. 

Bolt. —The part which, in a breech-loader, passes 
into the lump of the barrel and holds it into the ac¬ 
tion when the gun is closed. 

Bore .—The interior of the barrel along which the 
charge passes. 

Bores are made of the following forms: True 
cylinders; cylinders enlarged at the breech; cylinders 
enlarged or freed at the muzzle; tapered to narrow 
at the muzzle; narrowed to close at the muzzle; 
cylindrical, with ring cut out near muzzle; narrow¬ 
ing the muzzle with depth cut out, modified, etc. 
Bores are also made elliptical, hexogonal, poly¬ 
gonal, etc. 

Brazing. —Soldering iron with brass or copper as 
a solder. 

Breech. —In earlier days all that portion of the 
gun back of the lock was considered the breech, but 
now a gun is regarded as having two breeches: the 
breech of the barrel, the place where the cartridge is 
inserted, as in the case of the breech-loaders, and the 
breech of the stock, being that part which comes 
against the shoulder. 

Breech-bolt. —A small iron bar used in some 


320 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


make of guns to assist in holding the barrel secure 
to the action. 

Bridle. —That piece in the lock connected with the 
tumbler as a kind of cap. 

Browning .—A rust produced on the surface of 
gun-barrels by means of acids. 

Bump. —The corner of the stock at the top of the 
heel-plate. 

Burnisher. —A piece of smooth and hardened steel 
used in polishing the surface of metals. 

Calibre. —The diametrical measurement of the 
bore of a gun barrel. Breech loaders are made of 10, 
12, 14, 16 and 20 calibre. Muzzle loader of every 
variety of measurement. 

Cap. —The metal covering placed on the end of a 
pistol handle. Also the small cup-like contrivance 
put on the nipple upon which the hammer strikes to 
fire the gun. 

Carbine. —A short form of rifle; so made to be 
easily carried by persons who used them mounted on 
horses. 

Cartridges. —The ammunition for a gun, contained 
in metal or paper cases. They are sized to regular 
numbers, as gauge 10 or 12, etc., and are of two 
kinds, central-fire and rim-fire. 

Case-hardening. —A hardened, steel-like ex¬ 
terior given to iron by heating it in connection with 
animal charcoal, and then plunging while hot in 
cold water. 

Central-fire. —Setting off the cartridge by striking 
it in the centre, where the fulminate is placed. 


VOCABULARY OF MECHANICAL TERMS. 


321 


Chamber .—The enlarged space in the breech of 
the barrel wherein the cartridge is placed, or where 
the charge rests in the case of a muzzle-loader. The 
bores intended to receive the charge in the cylinder 
of a revolver. In loading a gun with coarse shot, if 
they rest in the barrel side by side in regular layers 
or strata, we say they chamber; but if they are a 
little too large for this, so that some of the shots 
must lie above the common level for want of space 
between other shots and the side of the bore to 
admit of their going down, we say the gun will not 
chamber shot of that particular size. A gun is not 
supposed to shoot shot to perfection which she can¬ 
not chamber. 

Charger .—A small measure employed for measur¬ 
ing powder in loading a gun or cartridge-shell. 

Chequer-work .—The chequered carving as made 
on the stock of a gun. 

Cherry-mould.—A small spherical cutting-tool, 
used for enlarging the interior of bullet moulds. It 
may be bought of houses dealing in gunsmith’s ma¬ 
terials, or it may be made by dressing a piece of soft 
steel down to proper shape, cutting file-teeth upon 
it and then hardening in the usual way. To use the 
cherry, close the mould upon it and then turn it 
round and round until the interior of the mould is 
cut out to the required size and shape. 

Cherry Tree .—A North American tree, growing 
to about medium size and furnishing a hard, reddish 
and most beautiful wood, highly prized for fine gun 
stocks. It is now getting to be quite scarce. Botan¬ 
ical name, Cerasus serotina. __ 


-322 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

Choke-bore .—A gun-bore slightly larger at tlie 
breech than at the muzzle. 

Choke-dressing .—Dressing out the bore of a gun 
so as to make it slightly larger at the breech than at 
the muzzle. 

Clamp , Mainspring .—A mainspring clamp is a 
kind of vise used by gunsmiths for clamping the 
mainspring preparatory to taking it from the lock. 

Cock.— In flint-lock guns, that part of the lock 
which holds the flint. The name is also often ap¬ 
plied to the hammer of percussion and other locks 
of more modern make. When the hammer has 
been pulled back to its last catch, we say the gun is 
cocked, or at full-cock ; when pulled back to the 
catch next preceding the last, we say the gun is 
half-cocked, or at half-cock. 

Comb .—That portion of the stock upon which the 
cheek rests at the time of firing. 

Cone .—See Nipple. 

Counter-sink .—The reccess in the chamber in 
which the rim of the cartridge fits. 

Cross-Fire .—We say a rifle “crosses fire” when 
it plays the balls on the same level without varying 
upward or downward. 

Curled Maple. —This is not a species of growth, 
but an unexplained condition to be met with in the 
wood of the maple, most commonly in that of the 
sugar or hard maple (the Acer saccharinum of bota¬ 
nists), though occasionally in Acer rubrum , or red 
maple. The grain of the wood lies in regular waves, 
presenting a most beautiful appearance when nicely 


VOCABULARY OF MECHANICAL TERMS. 


323 


dressed lip. It is very popular for fine gun 
stocks. 

Cylinder .—That part of a revolver in which the 
charges are placed. In the older make of percus¬ 
sion lock guns a short plug screwed into the side of 
the barrel at the breech, in which was placed the 
cap-tube or nipple, and through which the fire from 
the cap was communicated to the charge. 

Damascus .—The variegated appearance on gun 
barrels, produced by welding together metals dis¬ 
similar, as steel and iron, and then, while heated, 
twisting these metals into various tortuous forms 
and re-welding. The colors of the dissimilar metals 
are brought out by browing mixtures. 

Direct Fire .—That arrangement in a breech-loader 
by which the plunger lies and strikes the ignition 
horizontally. 

Dog .—That part of the gun-lock acted upon by 
the trigger to release the tightened mainspring and 
set the hammer in motion. Earlier gunsmiths 
called it by this name, but it is now usually called 
the sear. 

Double Triggers .—Often called set-triggers. A 
pair of triggers arranged to a rifle, occasionally, to 
admit of setting it off with but slight pressure. The 
triggers are located one in advance of the other un¬ 
der the guard. To operate pull upon the rear one 
until it “clicks” and is “set,” after which cock the 
gun. The slightest pressure upon the front trigger 
springs the “set,” which acts suddenly upon the 
sear, releasing the mainspring. 


324 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


Drop. —Distance measured from the top of the 
butt of a gun stock to a line drawn rear-ward from 
the top of the barrels, usually from 2 to inches. 

Elevated Rib. —The raised rib on top of and be¬ 
tween the barrels of a shot gun. 

Escutcheons. —Pieces of metal, through which the 
bolt to hold the barrel to the stock, is passed. 

Extractor. —An automatic working rod in central 
fire guns, by which the empty cartridge is partly 
withdrawn from the chamber. 

False Breech. —A piece of iron permanently 
screwed to the stock to fit squarely against the 
breech of the barrel. In the modern muzzle-loader 
the barrel is secured against it by hooks. It is also 
called a patent breech, also a standing breech. 

Fastenings. —Mechanism for holding the barrel of 
breech-loaders securely to the frame or action when 
the barrel is in position for firing. 

Flash. —In the days of the old flint-lock a gun was 
said to “flash” when the priming ignited in the 
pan but failed to fire the charge. 

Flux. —A substance or mixture used to facilitate 
the melting of metals or minerals, as glass, borax, 
and the like. 

Fore Piece. —That portion of the stock lying under 
the barrel, forward of the lock, called also fore-end 
and fore-arm. 

Fore Sight .—The sight located nearest the muzzle 
end of the barrel. 

Forge. —A furnace with its accompaniments 
where iron or other metals are wrought by heating 


VOCABULARY OF MECHANICAL TERMS. 325 

and hammering. When a piece of metal is ham¬ 
mered into some required shape, the operation is 
termed ‘‘to forge it.” 

Fowling Piece .—A smooth bored gun, used for 
hunting small game, shooting shot or small 
pellets. 

Freeing .—Slightly enlarging the bore of a gun at 
the muzzle. 

Frizzen .—In the old flint-lock the steel plate that 
covers the pan and stood up in front of the flint, 
against which the flint struck to produce fire to ig¬ 
nite the priming. 

Grip .—A name usually applied to the round part 
of a gun stock just back of the locks. It is also ap¬ 
plied to the handle of a pistol. 

Guard .—The piece of metal which curves around 
the triggers and protects them. 

Half Stock .—A gun stock that does not extend 
the full length of the barrel. 

Hammer .—That part of the gun-lock that strikes 
the plunger or cap, or other form of ignition. See 
cock. 

Hammer-Gun .—A gun whose lock works with a 
hammer. 

Hammerless Gun .—A gun whose arrangements 
for setting off the ignition are contained inside the 
breech mechanism, and not visible when the arm is 
ready for use. 

Handle .—See grip. 

Hazel Nut .—A small shrub growing abundantly 
in many portions of the United States. The Cory - 


826 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


lus of botanists, divided into two species, Americana 
and Rostrata. 

Head. —In a gun stock, the part where the breech 
end of the barrel rests against. 

Heel Plate. —The metal piece terminating the 
breech end of a gun stock. 

Hind Sight.— The sight upon the barrel, nearest 
the breech. 

Hinge Pin. —A pin fixed in the action on which 
the barrel plays. 

Ignition. —Any chemical combination which can 
be caused to explode and fire the charge, as in a cap 
or cartridge, for instance. 

Kentuckg Rifle. —A form of rifle, once very popu¬ 
lar with Western hunters, and now used to some ex¬ 
tent. It is muzzle loading, and the great length of 
the barrel was one great peculiarity. 

Kick. —When a gun rebounds at firing the term 
is used c ‘ it kicks.” 

Land Space. —The space in the bore of a rifle be¬ 
tween the grooves. 

Lever. —The bar or rod the working of which 
locks or unlocks the action of a breech-loader, enab¬ 
ling the operator to open or close the gun. As top- 
lever, side-lever, under-lever, etc. 

Lock Plate. —The flat plate to the inside of which 
all the other parts of the gun-lock are secured. 

Loop. —The projection under the barrel to which 
the fore end is fastened. See barrel loop. They 
are of two kinds, wire and bolt loop. 

Long Fire. —When a noticeable space of time in- 


VOCABULARY OF MECHANICAL TERMS. 


327 


tervenes between the striking of the hammer and 
the explosion of the charge, hence the term, the 
gun has made ‘ ‘ long-fire. ” 

Lower Rib. —The rib underneath and between the 
barrels of a shot gun. 

Lump. —The iron piece soldered to the barrel of a 
breech-loader, which descends into the action and is 
there secured preparatory to firing. 

Magazine Rifle. —A rifle provided with an interior 
magazine for containing cartridges, and so made 
that they are passed automatically into a chamber 
ready for firing. 

Mainspring. —The large spring in the gun-lock 
which imparts action and power to the hammer. 

Monocular Vision. —Seeing with only one eye. 
When one eye is closed, as some do in taking sight 
with a gun, it is a case of monocular vision. 

Mould. —An implement for moulding bullets. The 
plural form is generally given to it, as bullet moulds. 

Musket. —A form of gun, smooth bored and for¬ 
merly used for military purposes. When grooves are 
cut in the interior of the barrel, it is called a rifle. 

Nipple .—In a percussion-lock gun, the tube upon 
which the cap is placed. In the central-fire breech¬ 
loader, the tube through the standing breech in 
which the striker or plunger works. 

Nipple Wrench. —An implement used for screw 
ing the nipples into position or out. It is often 
called a tube-wrench. 

Oblique Fire.— Indicates that the plungers of a 
breech-loader lie and strike the ignition obliquely. 


328 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

Pan. —A small pan-like outside on the flint-lock, 
which holds the priming, and in which the latter is 
ignited by a spark from the flint striking the frizzen. 

Patent Breech. —See false breech. 

Pepper Box Pistol .—One form of revolver pistol, 
in which the barrels are made full length from one 
piece of metal. The rotation of the barrels and the 
action of the lock to fire the arm was produced by 
pulling the trigger. 

Picker. —A small wire implement hung to the 
shot-pouch of the hunter in the days of the old flint¬ 
lock, and used when occasion required for picking 
priming into the touch-hole of the gun. 

Pipes .—Short tubes attached to a barrel or to a 
rib attached to the barrel to receive the ramrod and 
hold it in place. 

Pistol. —A small varietv of fire-arm, so made as to 
be easily carried in the pocket or a holster, and 
readily manipulated and fired with one hand. 

Pistol Grip. —A gun stock whose grip inclines to 
turn down like the handle of a pistol, is said to have 
a pistol grip. 

Play .—A rifle which does not shoot with regular¬ 
ity is said to play its balls. 

Plungers. —The pins which are struck by the 
hammers, in breech-loaders, and which in turn 
strike and explode the ignition. 

Powder Bed. —The chamber, in a muzzle-loader, 
where the powder lies when the gun is charged. 

Priming. —The powder in the pan of a flint-lock 
gun. 


VOCABULARY OP MECHANICAL TERMS, 


329 


Proof Marks .—Impressions of stamps made in 
gun barrels to indicate that they have been proved. 

Proving .—Firing gun barrels with very heavy 
charges of powder and balls to ascertain if they are 
of proper strength. 

Ramrod .—A rod with which the tightly fitting 
portions of the charge are pushed home in loading a 
muzzle-loader. 

Rebounding Lock .—A lock which has the top of 
the mainspring and crank of the tumbler lengthened 
to such an extent that when the trigger is pulled 
the hammer delivers its blow and immediately re¬ 
bounds to the half-cock. 

Rib .—The metallic strip lying between and con¬ 
necting the barrels of a shot-gun. See lower rib 
and upper rib. 

Rifle .—A gun having grooves cut parallel with 
each other along the interior of the barrel. They 
usually take a more or less spiral course for the pur¬ 
pose of imparting to the bullet thrown a whirling or 
twisting motion on its flight through the air. The 
grooves thus cut are sometimes called rifles. 

Rifle .—A gun with grooves cut in a twisted or 
spiral-like manner on the interior of the barrel, for 
the purpose of giving the projectile a rotary motion 
on its axis during its flight. The design being to 
give greater accuracy to the course of the bullet. 

Rifle Cane .—A metallic walking staff, which is 
virtually a rifle, capable of shooting with much 
force. The lock works internally, and everything is 
so arranged as to pretty effectually conceal the true 


330 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


character of the arm, it, at a casual glance, pre¬ 
senting only the appearance of a neat walking-stick. 

Rifle Guide .—An implement used by the gun¬ 
smith to guide the course of his rifle-saws in cut¬ 
ting grooves in the bore of a barrel. 

Rifle-Saws .—Short files made to fit in the grooves 
of a rifle. They are usually attached to a rod, near 
the end, and drawn to and fro through the gun for 
the purpose of filing the grooves down to greater 
depth, where such a thing is required. In cases 
where new grooves are to be cut in a smooth-bore, 
the rod passes through a rifle-guide, which forces 
the saws to take the proper twist through the 
barrel. 

Rim-Fire .—A cartridge whose ignition is around 
the rim instead of in the centre, and which, conse¬ 
quently, can be used only by some arm striking 
the cartridge at the rim. 

Rouge .—A fine powdery material,used for putting 
a high polish upon the surface of well-finished 
metals. It is usually applied by rubbing in connec¬ 
tion with soft leather, either in the form of a buff or 
otherwise. 

Saturated Solution .—A liquid holding in solution 
as much of some particular soluble chemical as it 
will dissolve. For instance, if salt be put in water 
until a portion remains undissolved at the bottom of 
the vessel, there is in the liquid a saturated solution 
because it holds in suspension all the salt that it can 
dissolve. 

Scatter .—When a shot gun throws the pellets 


VOCABULARY OF MECHANICAL TERMS. 


331 


over a range of space unusually wide, it is said that 
it scatters. 

Scroll Guard .—An extension downward from the 
trigger guard, to steady the hand. It is designed to 
answer the same as pistol grip. 

Sear .—Sometimes called dog, which see. 

Sear-Spring .—The small spring in a gun-lock 
which presses the sear into the notches of the 
tumbler. 

Set-Triggers .—See double-triggers. 

Side-Lever. —A lever which works at the side of a 
breech-loader. 

Side-Screiv —The long screw holding the lock to 
the stock. 

Slack-Tub. —A vessel containing cold water, to be 
used in suddenly cooling hot metals, as in harden¬ 
ing steel, for instance. 

Smooth Boi'e. —A gun for throwing single bullets, 
made on the plan of a rifle, but having no grooves 
in the bore. It is sometimes called a “ smooth-bore 
rifle.” 

Standing Breech. —See false breech. 

Steady-pin .—The small projection on the main¬ 
spring which fits into the lock-plate. 

Strap .—The metal strip in a breech-loader which 
runs from the breech-works down the stock, in 
place of the tail, or the old fashioned breech-pin. 

Strikers. —See plungers. 

Sugar Maple. —A tree indigenous to the United 
States, whose wood is extensively used in the man¬ 
ufacture of gun-stocks. See curled maple. 


332 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


Swivel. —The small piece in a lock connecting the 
tumbler and the mainspring. 

Tear .—When a bullet makes a hole larger than 
its own diameter, particularly in the flesh of an 
animal, the gun from which it was shot is said to 
tear. 

Tenons. —Iron projections on the lump of a breech¬ 
loader, to fit into corresponding spaces in the 
action. 

Thimbles .—The metallic loops on the under side 
of a muzzle-loader, made to hold the ramrod when 
not in use. 

Toe. —The extremity of the breech which rests 
nearest the armpit when in the act of taking off¬ 
hand aim. 

Top Lever. —The lever of a breech-loader, which 
works on the upper side of the gun, just back of the 
hammers. 

Trigger. —The small lever under the gun, upon 
which is pressed with the finger to release the con¬ 
fined mainspring and allow the hammer to descend. 

Trigger-Plate —The iron plate in which the trigger 
works. 

Trigger Spring. —A small spring to keep the 
trigger pressed close to the sear. 

Tube. —The modern gunmaker calls the gun-bar¬ 
rel a tube ; in old times the only tube known to the 
gunsmith was that projection upon which the per¬ 
cussion cap was exploded. See nipple. 

Tube. —See nipple. 

Tumbler. —That part of the lock directly connected 


VOCABULARY OF MECHANICAE TERMS. 


333 


with the hammer, and in which are the two set 
notches. 

Tumbler-Screw .—The screw on the outside of the 
lock, passing through the hammer and holding it 
securely in its connection with the tumbler. 

Upper Rib .—The rib above and between the bar¬ 
rels of a double-barrel shot-gun. 

Vent .—A small hole in side of the gun breech com¬ 
municating with the interior or powder chamber. 

Vise .—An implement for clamping or holding. 

White Maple .—The Acer dasycarpum of botanists 
—a near relative of the sugar maple. Common in 
many parts of the United States. Called soft 
maple in some localities. 

Whole-Stock .—A gun-stock extending the entire 
length of the barrel. 

Wiper .—A long ramrod used only in wiping out 
and cleaning the bore of a muzzle loader. Also a 
small spiral implement made to screw on the end of 
a ramrod for the purpose of boring into and draw¬ 
ing a wad from a gun, or for holding material for 
wiping. Sometimes called a wormer. 

Wormer .—See wiper. 


CHAPTER XL. 


VOCABULARY OF CHEMICALS AND SUBSTANCES USED 
IN BROWNING,• VARNISHES, &C. 

Acid , Gallic. — Acid produced in yellowish Colored 
crystals, derived from nut-galls or oak-apples. Sol¬ 
uble in water and alcohol. Nut galls are an import 
ingredient in the manufacture of good black ink. 

Acid , Muriatic .—Called also Hydrochloric Acid 
and sometimes spirit of salt. Made by the action 
of sulphuric acid on common salt (chloride of sod¬ 
ium). Mingled with half its volume of Nitric Acid 
it forms Aqua Regia. 

Acid , Nitric .—Sometimes called Aqua Fortis. 
Made by the decomposition of Nitre, or saltpetre by 
strong sulphuric acid. 

Acid , Sulphuric. —Called oil of vitriol, made from 
sulphur and nitre or saltpetre. 

Acid, Hydrochloric. —Called Muriatic Acid, which 
see. 

Alcohol. —The product of the fermentation of 
sugar, and is contained in all fermented liquors. It is 
a colorless fluid, boils at 173° F. and burns without 
smoke. The volatile oils and resins are dissolved by 
it, as well as many acids and salts, the caustic al¬ 
kalies, etc. The resulting compounds of the acids 
upon alcohol are called ethers. 

Alkanet Root. —The root of a species of Bugloss. 


VOCABULARY OP CHEMICALS, ETC. 335 

It affords a fine red color to alcohol and oils, but a 
dirty red to water. The spirituous tincture gives to 
white marble a beautiful deep stain. 

Annatto .—Also spelled Anotta and Anotto. A 
red coloring substance obtained from the pulp of the 
seed-vessel of the plant Bixa orellana. It dissolves 
better and more readily in alcohol than in water. 

Antimony , Chloride of .—Called also Butter of 
Antimony and Sesquichloride of Antimony. Made 
by distilling the residue of the solution of sulphuret 
of antimony in strong hydrochloric acid, or by dis¬ 
tilling a mixture of corrosive sublimate and anti¬ 
mony. It is highly corrosive. In medicine, used as 
a caustic. 

Antimony , Butter of .—See Antimony, Chloride of. 

Aqua Fortis .—Called also Nitric Acid, which 
see. 

Aqua Regia .—Made by mixing one part nitric 
acid in two muriatic acid, by measure; keep the 
mixture in a bottle in a cool, dark place. 

Asphaltum .—Native bitumen, will dissolve in tur¬ 
pentine with gentle heat. 

Benzoin , Gum or Gum Benjamin .—A gum ex¬ 
tracted from the tree, Styrax benzoin , which grows 
in the East Indies. It fuses at a gentle heat, can be 
dissolved in alcohol and imperfectly dissolved in 
ether. It is employed as a varnish for toilet and 
other articles, which give out an agreeable smell 
when warmed by the heat of the hand. 

Blue Vitriol— Sulphate of copper. A salt formed 
by sulphuric acid in combination with copper. It is 


336 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


soluble ill cold or warm water, used much in dyeing 
and exciting galvanic batteries. 

Brimstone .—See sulphur. 

Brimstone , Black. —Crude sulphur. 

Burnt Umber. —Umber is a mineral of brown 
color from the Island of Cyprus. Two kinds are 
found in the market, raw and burnt. 

Butter of Antimony.— See antimony, chloride of. 

Camphor .—A solid concrete substance, Laurus 
camphor or Indian laurel tree, which grows in the 
East Indies, China and Japan. Soluble in alcohol, 
ether, oil and acetic acid. 

Chloride of Antimony. —See antimony, chloride of. 

Chloride of Mercury .—Called corrosive sublimate, 
which see. 

Chloride of Iron. —See muriate of iron. 

Copal. —The concrete juice of a tree growing in 
South America and the East Indies. Strictly speak¬ 
ing, it is not a gum or a resin, but rather resembles 
amber. It may be dissolved by digestion in linseed 
oil with heat little less than sufficient to boil the oil. 
The solution, diluted with oil of turpentine, forms a 
transparent varnish. It also dissolves in ether, and 
the ethereous solutions may be mixed with alcohol. 

Copperas. —Sulphate of iron or green vitriol. A 
salt made by the decomposition of iron or iron 
pyrites in oil of vitriol. Dissolved in water, is the 
basis of black dyes, and is used in making ink, &c. 

Copper , Sulphate of .—Called blue vitriol, which 
see. 

Corrosive Sublimate. —Chloride of mercury. A 


VOCABULARY OF CHEMICALS, ETC. 337' 

salt prepared by the decomposition of sulphate of 
mercury by common salt. It is a deadly poison. 
It is soluble in alcohol, ether, in two or three parts 
of hot water and in about 15 parts cold water. It 
melts and sublimes about 600°. The white of eggs 
is an antidote for the poison. 

Damar or Dammar .—A gum obtained from the 
agathis or dammar tree, allied to the pine trees, 
growing in the East Indies. It is soluble in alcohol 
and in oil of turpentine. 

Dragon’’s Blood .—The inspissated juice of various 
plants, of a red color, used for tinging varnishes, 
tooth tincture, staining marble, &c. 

Ether , Nitric .—Mode of distilling equal parts of 
strong nitric acid and alcohol with a few grains of 
urea. It is liquid, colorless, of sweet taste, and in¬ 
soluble in water. It boils at 185° F. The vapor 
explodes at moderate heat. 

Elemi .—A resin obtained from plants grown in 
the East Indies and South America. In making 
lackers, it is used to give toughness to the varnish. 

Fustic .—The wood of a tree growing in the West 
Indies. Used for dyeing yellow. 

Gallic Acid .—See Acid, gallic. 

Green Copperas .—Sulphate of iron. See Cop¬ 
peras. 

Green Vitriol. —Copperas, which see 

Hydrochloric Acid .—Muriatic Acid, which see 

Iron , Chloride of .—See Muriate of Iron. 

Iron , Muriate of .—See Muriate of Iron. 

Iron , Sulphate of .—-See Sulphate of Iron. 


338 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


Iron , Sesqui- Chloride of .—Perchloride of iron or 

permuriate of iron. Made by dissolving rust of 

iron in muriatic acid and then crystalizing. It 

forms red crystals. Soluble in water, alcohol and 

ether. Very corrosive. 

* 

Logwood. —The wood of a tree growing in Central 
America. The extract is used in dyeing black color. 

Madder. —A plant of the genus Rubia, one species 
of which is used in dyeing red. 

Manganese , Sulphate of . —A beautiful rose-colored 
salt, used to give a fine brown dye. 

Mastic. —A resin exuding from the mastic tree. 
It is in yellowish-white, semi-transparent tears. 
Used as an ingredient in varnishes. 

Mercury , Quicksilver. —A metal fluid at ordinary 
temperatures. Congealable at about 40° below zero. 
Boils at 660° and forms a colorless dense vapor. It 
is used in barometers and thermometers, and in 
alloy with tin in coating mirrors. It unites with 
chloroform, forming calomel and corrosive sub¬ 
limate. The only acids that act on it are sulphuric 
and nitric. To unite with the latter it must be 
heated. 

Mercury, Chloride of. —See Chloride of Mercury. 

Mercury, Horn. —Called Chloride of Mercury. 

Mercury, Muriate of. —Chloride of Mercury. 

Muriate Tincture of Steel.— See Muriate of Iron. 

Muriate of Iron. —Called Chloride of Iron. Made 
by dissolving iron filings in muriatic acid and 
crystalizing by evaporation. Crystals of green color 
being the result. 


VOCABULARY OF CHEMICALS, ETC. 339 

Nitrate of Silver. —Made by dissolving silver in 
nitric acid and evaporating the solution in crystals. 
Will dissolve in warm water. Is used for indelible 
ink to mark clothing and in photography. When 
fused and cast in small sticks is called lunar caustic. 

Nitric Acid. —See Acid, nitric. 

Nitric Ether. —See Ether, nitric. 

Oil of Vitriol. —See Acid, sulphuric. 

Pearl ash. —Carbonate of potassa. An alkali ob¬ 
tained from the ashes of trees by leaching. When 
evaporated to dryness in iron kettles it is called pot¬ 
ash, but when calcined to burn off the coloring mat¬ 
ter it is called pearlash. 

Potash. —See Pearlash. Sometimes called salts of 
tartar. 

Pumice Stone. —A substance resembling the slag 
from furnaces, ejected from volcanoes. The pulver¬ 
ized material is used to remove the gloss and imper¬ 
fections on varnished surfaces by rubbing with a 
woolen cloth and water. 

Quicksilver. —See Mercury. 

Rotten Stone.--A soft stone used for fine grinding 
and polishing. Generally used after pumice stone, 
and is applied with a soft woolen cloth and sweet 
oil. 

Salts of Tartar. —See Potash. 

Sandarac. —A resin that exudes from tree grow¬ 
ing in Africa. Fusible by heat and soluble in al¬ 
cohol. Used in varnishes. 

Sesqui-Chloride of Iron. —See Iron, Sesqui-chlor- 
ide of. 


340 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

Shellac .—Lac is a resinous substance produced 
mainly from the banyan tree of the East Indies. It 
is the product of an insect. Stick lac is the resin in 
its natural state ; seed lac when broken up, cleaned 
of impurities and washed; shellac when it is 
melted and formed in thin flakes. United with 
ivory-black or vermilion it makes sealing wax. 
Dissolved in alcohol it makes lackers and var¬ 
nishes. 

Silver , Nitrate of .—See nitrate of silver. 

Soda. —Common. See potash. 

Spanish Whiting .—Ground chalk carefully clean¬ 
ed from all stony matter. 

Spirits of Nitre.— An alcoholic solution of nitrous 
ether. 

Steel , Tincture of.— See muriate tincture of steel. 

Sulphate of Iron .—Copperas or green vitriol. See 
copperas. 

Sulphate of Manganese .—See manganese, sul¬ 
phate of. 

Sulphur .—Often called brimstone. A mineral of 
yellowish color. Soluble in turpntine, fat oils, 
bisulphuret of carbon and hot liquor of potassa. 
With oxygen it forms sulphuric and sulphurous 
acids, and with the metals it combines as sulphurets 
or sulphides. It is an essential ingredient in gun¬ 
powder, and the gas arising from its combustion is 
employed in bleaching straw and woolen goods. 

Tartar , Salts of .—See potash. 

Turpentine .—An oleo-resinous substance as flow¬ 
ing from several species of pine, larch and fir trees. 


VOCABULARY OF CHEMICALS, ETC. 


341 


Oil of turpentine is obtained by distilling the crude 
turpentine. 

Umber , Burnt. —See Burnt Umber. 

Venice Turpentine. —A liquid resin which exudes 
from the larch tree. The Venice turpentine usually 
met with is turpentine to which is added a quantity 
of black melted resin. 

Verdigris. —A green oxide of copper, very poison¬ 
ous. The white of eggs is an antidote for the poison, 
when taken into the stomach. 

Vitriol 3 Blue. —Called sulphate of copper. See 
Blue Vitriol. 

Vitriol , Green. —Sulphate of iron. See Copperas. 

Vitriol , Oil of. —See Acid, sulphuric. 

Whiting , Spanish. —See Spanish Whiting. 


CHAPTER XLI. 


CALIBRES OF GUNS, RIFLING, TWIST OF RIFLING, ETC. 

European Guns .—The Enfield Rifle; Muzzle 
Loader, Cal. 577; 3 grooves ; regular twist, slightly 
deeper at breech than at the muzzle; rifling one turn 
in 6 feet 6 inches. 

The Purdy Rifle, Muzzle Loader; Cal. 650; 4 
grooves; increasing twist, commencing at one turn 
in 6 feet and ending at one turn in 4 feet 9 inches. 

The Wilkinson Rifle, Muzzle Loader, Cal. 530 ; 5 
grooves with a regular twist of one turn in 6 feet 6 
inches. 

The Lancaster Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Bore smooth 
and elliptical diameter at muzzle ; greater axis, 550; 
lesser axis, 540; greater axis at breech, 557 ; lesser 
axis, 543. The twist is one quarter turn in whole 
length of barrel. Length of barrel, 39 inches. 

The Snider Rifle, Muzzle Loader; Cal. 577 ; 5 
grooves, one turn in 4 feet. 

The Whitworth Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Polygonal 
or hexagonal form of bore. Rifling, one turn in 20 
inches. Bore, 564 across the flats. 568 across center 
of flats. 

The Jacobs Rifle, Muzzle Loader; 4grooves; loads 
and grooves equal. Rifling four-fifths turn in 24 
inches. 

The Turner Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Bore, 568. 
Rifling Turner’s Patent, one turn in 4 feet. 


CALIBRES OF GUNS, RIFLING, ETC. 343 

The Rigby Rifle, Muzzle loader. Rifling 6 grooves; 
one turn in 4 feet. 

The Boucher Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Bore hexagon 
with angles, rounded off so as to form shallow 
grooves, 608 deep in center. Bore, 570. Rifling one 
ture in 3 feet 3 inches. 

The Prussian Needle Gun, Breech Loader. Rifling 
4 grooves, one turn in 40 inches. 

The Chassepot Rifle, Breech Loader; Cal. 433 ; 
rifling 4 grooves, turning from left to right, one 
turn in 21} inches. 

The Snider-Enfield, Breech Loader. Rifling 3 
grooves slightly deeper at breech than at the muz¬ 
zle, one turn in 78 inches. Diameter, 577. Depth 
of rifling at muzzle, 05. At breech, .13. Width of 
grooves three-sixteenths inch. 

Westley Richard’s, Breech Loader. Bore octagonal 
form. Rifling one turn in 20 inches. 

Regulation Minie Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Rifling 
one turn in 6 feet 6 inches. 

American Guns .—The Peabody-Martine Rifle, 
Breech Loader. Rifling 7 grooves, one turn in 22 
inches, gain twist, lands and grooves of equal 
width. 

Maynard Rifle, Breech Loader. Rifling 3 grooves, 
one turn in 5 feet, lands and grooves equal width ; 
depth, .01. 

Sharp’s Rifle, Breech Loader. Lands and grooves 
equal width. Rifling one turn in 20 inches. 

Bown & Sons’ Kentucky Rifle, Muzzle Loader. 
Standard number of grooves 7, but made with 4, 5, 


344 


THE GUNSMITH'S MANUAL. 


6, and 7 grooves, same width as lands. Even twist 
one turn in 42 inches. Gain twist commences at 9 
feet and ends at 6 feet. 

Powel & Son’s Breech Loading Rifle, 6 and 7 
grooves, one turn in 36 inches. 

Steven’s Rifle, Breech Loader. Regular twist, 
one turn in 26 inches. 

Springfield, U. S. Rifle, Breech Loader, Cal. 45. 
Rifling 3 plain concentric grooves. Lands and 
grooves equal width. Uniform twist, one turn in 
22 inches, depth .005. 

Frank Wesson’s Rifle, Breech Loader. Long and 
mid-range guns using long slugs, even twist, one 
turn in 18 inches, grooves 6, lands and grooves equal 
width. Short range guns, using slugs having short 
bearing, increase twist commencing on 6 feet, and 
ending on 2 feet, 5 and 6 grooves, lands and grooves 
of equal width. 

Wesson’s Muzzle Loading Rifle. Barrel 2' 8" long. 
Rifling one turn in 3' 6". 6 grooves; space between 

grooves equal to interior surface presenting a 
dovetail appearance. Groves not so wide as spaces. 

The Whitney Arms Co.’s Guns, Breech Loading, 
comprising the Whitney, Kennedy, and Phoenix 
systems. Rifling 6 grooves, one turn in 22 inches. 
Lands and grooves of equal width. 

Marston’s Rifle (Toronto, Canada), Muzzle Loader, 
number of grooves 6, lands and grooves equal 
width; regular twist, one turn in 30 inches; depth of 
groove 15-thousandths inch, slightly freed at breech. 

Pistols. —Colt’s Army Pistol, Breech Loading Re- 


CALIBRES OF GUNS, RIFLING, ETC. 


345 


volver, Cal. 45. Rifling 6 grooves, twist uniform, 
one turn in 16 inches; depth .005. 

Schofield, Smith & Wesson Revolver for Army 
Use, Breech Loader. Bore, .435. Number of 
grooves 5, uniform twist, one turn in 20 inches. 
Depth of rifling .0075. 


CHAPTER XLII. 


DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING 
RIFLES, DOUBLE-BARRELLED SHOT GUNS AND PIS¬ 
TOLS, OF THE MOST NOTED MAKERS IN THE UNITED 
STATES. 

The Ballard Rifle.—{Made by the Marlin Arms 
Co ., New Haven, Conn). 

To Take Apart. —1, take the sight from the barrel; 
2, take off the stock by unscrewing butt-plate; and 
turning out the long tang screw ; 3, drop the lever 
and take out lever screw ; take out the extractor 
then the block ; 4, unscrew the barrel from the 
frame and take the tang from the frame; 5, take 
the screws from the lock and pry the plates apart. 

To Assemble. —Proceed in reverse order. 

The Burgess Repeating Rifle.—{Made by Whitney 
Arms Co., New Haven, Conn). —1, receiver; 2, bot¬ 
tom tang ; 3, lever; 4, breech-block ; 5, top lever ; 
6, ejector; 7, carrier-block ; 8, bottom plate; 9, 
bottom plate snap; 10, hammer ; 11 main-spring; 
12, hammer-screw ; 13, side loading spring cover 
as seen from the back ; 14, trigger. 

To Take Apart. —1st, take out the bottom plate 
screw, and remove the plate; 2d, take out the top 
cover screws and slide the cover back against the 
hammer, having depressed the lever sufficiently to 
let it pass by, then pull back the hammer as far as 
possible and take the cover out; 3d, take out the 


TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING. 347 

carrier screws, there being one on each side of the 
upper rear portion of the receiver, and the stop 
screw on the upper front left hand side of the re¬ 
ceiver, then the lever, breech-block, extractor and 
carrier can be taken out through the top. 

To Disengage the Lever from the Breech Block .— 
Take out, 1st, the firing pin screw ; 2d, the firing 
pin ; 3d, the ejector from the side of the breech¬ 
block ; 4th, the large pin from either side. In as¬ 
sembling, replace the pin in exactly the same posi¬ 
tion it was when taken out. 

To Assemble. —1st, place the lever, breech block, 
extractor and carrier in their proper position, rela¬ 
tively to one another, as they were when taken out, 
with the projection on the breech-block inside, and 
under the front part of the carrier. 2d. Replace the 
above parts taken together in the receiver, passing 
the handle of the lever first through the top, put in 
the carrier side screws and the stop screw. 3d. 
cock the hammer, slide the top cover into place, the 
breech being left half way open, then put in the 
screw; 4th, close the breach and screw the bottom 
plate to place. 

Burnside's Breech Loading Bifle. —To clean the 
gun, unlatch the guard and drop the chamber; press 
down the small spring bolt at the guard joint with 
the finger nail, while the lever of the joint-bolt is 
turned out of place and taken from the joint. To 
detach the movable breech-pin from the chamber, 
press it back with the thumb and forefinger of the 
left hand ; hold the bolt in this position with the 


348 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


thumb nail of the right hand inserted in the notch 
of the bolt, while with the fore finger of the same 
hand, the breech-pin is pushed into the chamber, 
and the head or button of the spring-bolt is turned 
from its place, when the breech-pin may be removed. 
Every part of the arm, except the lock is now ex¬ 
posed to view. Put together in reverse order of 
taking apart. 

The Evans Magazine Rifle.—{Made by the Evans 
Magazine Rifle Co ., Mechanics Falls , Me.; Merwin , 
Hulbert & Co ., agents, New York City.) —To load 
the magazine, introduce the cartridge through the 
opening in the butt plate. Each complete movement 
of the lever forward carries the cartridge to its 
chamber. Repeat the motion till the magazine is full. 

To use as a single loader, drop the lever to right 
angle with the barrel and insert the cartridge di¬ 
rectly in the chamber. 

The full motion of the lever forward discharges 
the empty shell, the return places the loaded cart¬ 
ridge in position, when the arm is ready for dis¬ 
charge. 

Semi-Hammerless .—The American Arms Com¬ 
pany are now producing a gun at a low price called 
the semi-hammerless single gun, for which the man¬ 
ufacturers claim that it combines the advantages of 
a hammerless without the danger of the self-cocking 
principle. To cock the gun press down the little 
lever on the side. The lock-plate is easily removed 
to get at and oil the lock. Its construction is such 
that no water or dirt can penetrate to the lock. 


TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING. 


349 


The Hotchkiss Magazine Gan.—(Made by Win¬ 
chester Arms Co., New Haven , Conn .)—To remove 
the magazine cut off, turn the notched end to the 
front; place the point of a screw-driver under the 
rear end and bear down gently, slightly support¬ 
ing the front end against the pressure with the 
fingers of the left hand. To remove the breech- 
bolts press on the trigger and at the same time un¬ 
lock the bolt and withdraw it. N. B.—The bolt can 
be removed in the following manner: unlock and 
draw back the bolt until the cocking piece just 
clears the receiver; then, letting go the handle, take 
hold of the cocking piece and turn it down to the 
right until the projection on the bolt-head leaves the 
groove under the front end of the locking-tube. The 
latter may then be drawn out at the rear, and the 
head at the front of the receiver. To return the 
bolt, the head must be inserted from the front and 
the part from the rear, unless the cut-off be removed 
To remove the magazine-spring and cartridge-fol- 
lower, insert the point of a screw-driver in the hole 
at the rear of the magazine tube, and draw out the 
tube. The barrel cannot be removed until the mag¬ 
azine has been taken out. Remove then the trig¬ 
ger spring screw and spring, the cartridge stop pin 
and stop, the trigger pin and trigger using a punch 
to drive out the pin. Remover the trigger catch 
pin and catch, using the point of a screw-driver in 
the notched end of the pin to draw it out. 

To dismount the breech-bolt, remove the bolt- 
head, which can be done by holding the cocking- 


350 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

piece firmly in the left hand, and with the right 
turn down the handles as in the act of locking the 
bolt; the head will then slip off. Turn out the fir¬ 
ing-pin screw; slip the bolt-head partly on the pro¬ 
jecting end of tne firing-pin, and use it as a wrench 
to unscrew the pin; the main-spring may then be 
removed. Remove the extractor by tapping gently 
on its projecting end with a piece of wood. 

To assemble, proceed in the reverse order. 

Howard's Sporting Rifle, “ The Thunderbolt — 
To clean the lock, take out the screw that attaches 
the back end of the yoke to the breech piece; unscrew 
the barrel; then take the nut from the back end of 
the sliding breech-pin, which with the mainspring 
and hammer, constitute the lock. 

In using, if the operator does not wish to have 
the piece cocked, he has only to hold the trigger 
back while closing the guard, and it will not be 
cocked. To cock it from this position, he has only 
to open the guard a short distance, and close it. If 
he wishes to load and fire rapidly, it will cock itself. 
If in no haste, or does not wish it cocked, he has 
only to hold back the trigger, while closing its 
guard. 

The Kennedy Magazine Gun.—{Made by Whitney 
Arms Co., New Haven , Conn.) —Directions for tak¬ 
ing apart: 

1. Take out the two side screws, on the left side 
of the receiver, that are nearest together. 2. Re¬ 
move the bottom plate and carrier block through the 
bottom of the receiver. 3. Full cock the hammer 


TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING. 


351 


and take out the extractor screw from top cover, 
then depress the lever sufficiently to let the cover 
pass over it. pull back the hammer as far as possible 
and slide the cover out over it. 4. Remove the 
breech-block and lever together through the the top 
of the receiver. 

To disengage the breech-block: 1. Take out the 
firing-pin screw. 2. The firing pin. 3. The ejector 
from the side of the breech-block. 4. The large pin 
from either side. 

To assemble, put the parts together in reverse 
order from which they were taken out. 

Marlin's Magazine Rifle—{Made by Marlin Arms 
Co., New Haven, Conn.) —Figure No. 1 shows the 
arm in a closed position. A, represents the Lever; 
B, the Bolt; C, Extractor; D, the Carrier Block; E, 
the Ejector; F, the Carrier Block Spring; G, the 
Hammer; H, the Trigger; I, the Firing Pin. 

To take the action apart: 1. Take out the lever 
pin screw, and drive out the lever pin, allowing the 
lever to be removed. 2. Take out the tang screw 
(this allows the stock to be removed;, hammer 
screw, and front pin that goes through trigger strap; 
now remove the trigger strap with lock work at¬ 
tached. 3. The bolt can now be slipped out. 

To assemble the action, put the parts into the re¬ 
ceiver in reverse order from that in which they were 
taken out. 

Maynard Rifle , Self-Priming Model.—{Made by 
Mass. Arms Co., Chicopee Falls, Mass.) —To detach 
the barrel: Loosen the lever at its rear end and 


352 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


move it forward. There is a button that keeps 
the magazine closed; turn this button downward 
and forward as far as it will go; then pull it out 
as far as it will come; this will detach the lever 
from the breecli-piece, so that it will come partly out 
of it; unhook the barrel, and the lever will pass quite 
out of the breech-piece. To attach the barrel reverse 
the operation. 

To remove the nipple: On the left side, opposite 
the nipple, is the screw which fastens it; take out 
this screw; put a stick of hard wood in the screw- 
hole; strike the stick a little and the nipple will be 
driven out. 

To dissect the rifle for a thorough cleaning: There 
are four screws on the under side of the gun, behind 
the hole where the lever is pivoted. Take out the 
two farthest back, and the stock may then be drawn 
back so as to separate it from the breech-piece. 

To adjust the joint between the end of the barrel 
and the breech-piece: There are two screws visible 
on the under side of the breech-piece, forward of 
the lever. They are to adjust the joint to the 
thickness of the flange of the cartridge. To do this: 
First, turn the screw nearest the lever once round to 
the left; now raise the butt-end of the barrel, put in 
a cartridge, and observe as you bring the butt-end 
down again whether the joint is too close, so as to 
pinch the flange, or not close enough to hold it firm¬ 
ly. The exact degree of tightness allows the lever 
to work easily, but holds the barrel perfectly firm. 
This degree will be found by turning the forward 


TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING. 353 

screw to the right or left. Having found this de¬ 
gree, turn the rear screw to the right, tightly, and 
the joint is adjusted. 

The Peabody-Martini Rifle.—{Made by Providence 
Tool Co ., Providence , R. /.)— 1 . Butt Stock. 9. 
Stock Bolt. 10. Receiver, or Body. 11. Trigger 
Spring. 12. Screw for Locking Bolt Spring and Trig¬ 
ger Spring. 14. Stop Nut. 15. Block Axis Pin. 16. 
Striker, or Firing Pin. 19. Block. 25. Tumbler. 
26. Indicator. 27. Block Lever. 28. Extractor. 
29. Tumbler Rest. 30. Tumbler Rest Axis Screw. 
31. Extractor Axis Screw. 32. Guard. 33. Trigger. 
34. Trigger Axis Screw. 35. Swivel. 36. Swivel 
Axis Screw. 46. Barrel. 47. Fore, or Tip-Stock. 
48. Cleaning Rod. 

To dismount body or receiver : Turn keeper-screw 
so the groove in head will allow block axis pin to 
drop out; open the breech, and with the thumb press 
with force on front end of block, and, at the same 
time, raise the lever; turn the keeper-screw so as to 
allow the tumbler axis to be pushed out. This also 
relieves the tumbler. Take out extractor axis screw. 

To assemble body: Put lever back to its place in 
assembled guard and insert both in the body. Drop 
in extractor and turn in extractor axis screw. Put 
tumbler in place and put in tumbler axis, point up¬ 
right and secure keeper screw. With the right hand 
raise the lever so as to touch the lever catch, then, 
with the first finger, pull the trigger back, and with 
the thumb push the trigger axis forward, and drop 
in the assembled block, the front end entering first. 


354 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


Apply a little force to back end of block with the 
left hand, moving the lever a little at the same time 
with the right hand, and the block will drop into 
place. Insert block axis pin and secure it with the 
keeper screw. 

To dismount guard: Take out tumbler rest axis 
screw, relieving tumbler rest. Take out trigger 
spring screw, relieving trigger spring and locking 
bolt spring. Take out trigger axis screw, relieving 
trigger. Take out locking bolt screw, if found 
necessary. 

To assemble guard: Hold trigger in place and turn 
in trigger axis screw. Restore locking bolt and 
thumb piece to place and turn in screw. Restore 
locking bolt spring and trigger spring and turn in 
trigger spring screw. Insert tumbler rest and turn 
in tumbler rest axis screw. The parts are now ready 
to be attached to the body, or receiver. 

To dismount block: Turn keeper screw on end of 
block and take out stop nut. The firing pin and 
coil spring will then drop out. 

To assemble block: Restore firing pin and coil 
spring. Turn in stop nut, and turn keeper screw to 
secure it. 

The firing pin has a rectangular slot near one end. 
This slot is longer on one side than on the other. 
The long side should be so placed as to admit end of 
the tumbler freely. 

The Phoenix Breech-Loader.—{Made by Whitney 
Arms Co ., New Haven , Conn .)—No special direc¬ 
tions are necessary for dismounting and assembling 


TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING. 


355 


the Phoenix system. The breech-block is taken 
out by loosening the screw that holds the pin, and 
then taking out the pin. After the breech-block 
has been removed let the hammer down as far as it 
will go, which relieves it from the pressure of the 
main spring, and it can then be easily removed by 
taking out the screw which holds it. 

The Remington Breech-Loading Rifle.—{Made by 
E. Remington & Sons, Rion, N. Y .)—Explanation 
of parts and technical names: A A. Receiver. B. 
Breech Piece. C. Hammer. D. Locking Lever, 
a. Main Spring, bb. Pins. c. Trigger, d. Lever 
Spring, e. Trigger Spring, f. Firing Pin. g. Ex¬ 
tractor. 

To remove the breech piece and hammer: Loosen 
the button screw until the button can be removed 
from the heads of the breech and hammer pins. 
Cock the hammer, push out the breech pin, take out 
the breech piece, let down the hammer as far as it 
will go (which leaves the main spring resting upon 
a stationary pin, and obviates the necessity of using 
a main spring vise in readjusting the parts). Re¬ 
move the hammer pin and take out the hammer. 

To replace the hammer and breech piece: Lay the 
arm down on the right side, press upon the trigger 
at the same time replacing the hammer with the 
thumb piece forward and downward, until the hole 
in the hammer and receiver correspond. Replace 
the hammer pin, cock the hammer, replace the 
breech piece, insert breech pin in receiver, and by 
pressing on the pin at the same time pressing down 


356 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


the breech piece and working it back and forth 
slightly the pin will enter. Adjust the button and 
tighten the button screw. 

To take the entire arm apart: Take out the ex¬ 
tractor screw, open the breech, remove the extractor, 
take out the breech piece and hammer, as described. 
In military arms remove the wiping rod by un¬ 
screwing the same, remove the bands, separate the 
tip stock from the barrel at the muzzle, until it is 
liberated from the stud upon the under side of the 
barrel, when it maybe withdrawn from the receiver; 
take out the tang screw and remove the butt stock. 

To detach the guard strap: Take out the two side 
screws which pass through the guard strap, always 
removing the rear screw first. Unscrew the barrel 
from the receiver, taking care that the extractor has 
been removed before unscrewing the barrel. 

To assemble the arm: Screw the barrel into the 
receiver, until the mark on the top of the barrel and 
receiver correspond. Replace the extractor and 
screw, place the forward end of the guard strap in 
the receiver, putting in the screw. See that the 
main spring is in the center of the guard strap, press 
the rear end in until the screw will enter. Replace 
the hammer and breech piece, as previously de¬ 
scribed. Replace butt stock and tip. In putting 
on the bands of military guns, see that the letters 
upon them are upon the same side with the band 
springs. Replace the wiping rod by screwing it in. 

The locking lever, attached to the guard strap, 
serves a double purpose: one end locking the sear, 


TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING. 


357 


or trigger, when the breech is open to receive the 
cartridge, which effectually prevents accidental dis¬ 
charge, the other end working in a groove on the 
under side of the breech piece, serving to close the 
breech piece and keep it closed in the act of firing. 

The Remington Magazine Gun; Keene s patent .— 
{Made by E. Remington <U Sons , Rion , N. Y.) 
To remove the breech, turn the large screw at the 
right hand side of the stock below the hammer to 
the right until the carrier (which should be in its 
lower position at the time) drops free of the bolt and 
allows it to be withdrawn. 1ST. B. The screw refer¬ 
red to is cut with a left hand thread. To separate 
the rear end of the bolt and firing pin from the 
front end, bend back the hammer and twist it 
around to the right until the shoulder on front end 
of rear cap slides back in the groove in breech bolt. 
To reassemble it reverse the operation described. 
To take out the extractor, press back the extractor 
bolt, using the hooked end of the screw-driver for 
this purpose, thus releasing the rear end of the ex¬ 
tractor, which may then be lifted out of its seat. 
Care should be taken not to let the extractor be 
thrown out by the spring when released. To re¬ 
move the stock, take off the bands; take out the 
screw at the end of the metal tip, and remove the 
tip-stock by slipping it forward over the magazine 
tube. Unscrew the magazine tube, take out the 
tang screw, remove the guard bow, and take off the 
butt stock. The barrel should never be unscrewed 
except with proper appliances to avoid injuring the 
receiver. 


358 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


To assemble the parts, reverse the operations de¬ 
scribed, taking care in screwing in the magazine 
tube that the follower does not catch against the cut¬ 
off and interfere with replacing the tube. 

Remington No. 3 Rifle, —(. Hepburn’s Patent, made 
by E. Remington and Sons, llion, N. Y.) —Remove 
the upper screw on the left hand side, and the 
breech block may be taken out. To take out the 
hammer, remove the upper screw and slip the ham¬ 
mer forward into the breech block hole. To take 
out the extractor, remove the forward screw on left 
hand side. The lever which operates the breech 
block passes through the rocker sleeve with a square 
stud and is held in place by a set screw directly un¬ 
der the fore stock, which must be removed if it is 
ever desired to take off the lever. If necessary to 
remove the guard it can be done by taking off the 
butt stock and taking out the side screws in the 
usual way. The barrel should not be unscrewed 
from the frame except with proper appliances. 
When necessary to unscrew the frame, the ex¬ 
tractor should be taken out and the hreech block 
and guard put back in place, before putting on the 
wrench. 

Sharp’s Rifle , {old model using paper or linen 
cartridge, also model of 187^ using metallic cartridge; 
made by Sharp’s Rifle Co., Bridgeport , Conn .)— 
To take the arm apart : Relieve the lever key from 
pressure of spring by throwing down the lever 
guard, the key can then be taken out and the slide 
with lever guard attached, removed. 


TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING. 359 

To replace, put slide in place, leaving guard down, 
then insert lever key, turning the key to place. 

To take off the lock, give four or five turns to the 
side screws ; tap their heads gently with the handle 
of the screw-driver to start the lock from its bed, 
the side screws can then be taken out and the lock 
removed. To replace the lock, press it firmly into 
its bed, before entering the screws and then turn 
them up close. 

Sharp's Rifle , ( Borchardt’s Patent model of 1878; 
made by Sharp's Rifle Co ., Bridgeport , Conn .)— 
Plate 3—AAA, receiver; BB, slide ; CC, sear ; D, 
firing bolt ; E, cam ; F, extractor ; G, connection, 
H, trigger; K, safety catch; L, safety lever; MM, lever; 
NN, mainspring ; 0, lever spring ; P, barrel stud ; 
R, ramrod stop, military ; S, ramrod, military; T, 
swivel, military; UU, barrel; VV, forearm ; W, 
link; X, butt-stock bolt; 1, lever pin; 2, lever 
screw. 

To take the arm apart: Loosen the rear screw 
under the barrel, and this will relieve the pressure 
of the lever spring. Cock the gun by opening and 
closing. Bring down the guard lever half way. 
Take out the lever pin on which the lever rotates. 
This pin is held in place by a small screw directly 
above it. Turn this screw to the left until the cir¬ 
cular cut in its side is on a line with the lever pin, 
and the latter can then be removed. Pull lever out 
of the joint. Replace lever pin so as to hold ex¬ 
tractor in place. Remove screw which connects 
lever and link, through hole in left side of link. 


360 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


Take out lever. Push slide up and out, and then 
take out extractor. 

To strip the slide, uncock it and push out sear pin 
and remove sear. Take out pin at rear end of 
slide. Take out slide plug and mainspring. Drive 
cross pin out of firing bolt and remove same. Ke- 
move link by taking last screw out of slids. To re¬ 
move trigger, safety and safety lever, drive out trig¬ 
ger pin and safety pin above it. Pull back safety 
catch and pull out trigger. Push forward safety 
catch as far as it will go, and it will drop out, to¬ 
gether with the safety lever above it. 

To assemble, replace safety catch, safety lever 
and trigger. Assemble slide and cock it. Push 
safety catch into notch of trigger. Put in extractor 
and lever pin. Insert slide and push it down, keep¬ 
ing extractor close to its place, in base of barrel. 
Attach lever. Take out lever pin, bring lever into 
the joint, replace the pin, and secure it by giving 
small screw above it half a turn to the right. 
Tighten the screw which was loosened under the 
barrel. 

Never use a hammer or other force either in tak¬ 
ing apart or assembling this system. If the parts 
are in proper position, everything will go into place 
easily. 

The U. S. Muzzle Loading Rifle and Musket .—To 
take apart : Draw the ramrod ; turn out the tang 
screw ; put the hammer at half cock ; partially un¬ 
screw the side screw, and with a light tap on the 
head of each screw with the handle of the screw- 


TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING. 


361 


driver or a light wood mallet, loosen the lock from 
its bed in the stock, then turn out the side screws 
and remove the lock with the left hand. Remove 
the side screws and take off the bands. Take out 
the barrel by turning the gun horizontal^, barrel 
downward, holding the barrel loosely with the left 
hand below the rear sight, the right hand grasping 
the stock by the small; if it does not leave the stock, 
tap the muzzle on the top side against the work 
bench which will effect loosening itrat the breech. 

To assemble, put together in the inverse order of 
taking apart. Squeeze the barrel in place with the 
hand ; give the butt of the stock a gentle tap on the 
floor to settle the breech end of the barrel against 
the head of the stock. 

Springfield Breech Loading Rifle {made at Spring- 
field , Mass, by U. S. Government; adopted by U. S. 
Government.) —A, Bottom of Receiver; B, Barrel; 
C, Breech Screw ; E, Hinge Pin ; F, Cam Lock ; 
G, Cam Latch Spring ; H, Firing Pin ; I, Firing Pin 
Spring; J, Extractor ; K, Ejector Spring and 
Spindle ; L, ejector Stud ; M, Lug of Extractor. 

To dismount the breech loading parts: 1. Re¬ 
move the hinge pin by pressing on its point with a 
small-sized punch until the end carrying the arm 
projects sufficiently to enable it to be grasped 
and removed by the fingers. 2. Remove the breech 
block carefully, so as not to allow the extractor and 
ejector spring to fall out. 3. Remove the extractor 
and ejector spring. 4. Remove the cam latch by 
unscrewing the breech block cap screw, and loosen 


362 the gunsmith’s manual. 

the cap with the point of a screw driver. 5. Re¬ 
move the cam latch spring. 6. Turn out the firing 
pin screw, then take out the firing pin and spring 
from the breech block. 

To assemble : 1. Insert the firing pin screw in 
the breech block, then the firing pin, and then re¬ 
place the firing pin screw. 2. Insert the cam latch 
spring in its place. 3. Replace the cam latch and 
the breech block cap ; turn the cap screw well down. 
4. Insert the ejector spring in its place. 5. Replace 
the extractor in such a position in the breech block 
that the small recess in the back of the extractor 
will be in a position to be presented to the point of 
the ejector spring spindle. 6. Insert the breech 
block. After seeing that the point of the spindle 
has entered the recess in the back of the extractor, 
strike the breech block over the thumb piece and 
head of the firing pin, a smart blow with the palm 
of the hand, forwards and downwards, this will 
cause it to enter sufficiently to hold it in place. 
Then press it into position by grasping the block and 
receiver with the fingers and thumb, the thumb 
uppermost, and squeeze it home. 7. Insert the 
hinge pin by striking it a sharp blow with the palm 
of the hand. See that the stud in the arm enters 
the recess cut for it on the side of the receiver. 

Should the thumb piece interfere with the head of 
the hammer in raising the breech block, it is proba¬ 
ble that either the tumbler or sear screw is too loose 
or broken. 

Whitney Breech Loading Gun {made by Whitney 


TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING. 


363 


Arms Company , New Haven , Conn .)—To take 
apart : 1. Give the screw in the side of the frame 
or receiver (that holds the two fulcrum pins) a 
few turns to release the flanges or heads of the 
two pins, then turn them away from the screw 
a little. 2. Place the hammer on the half-cock, 
open the breech half way, and press the locking 
shoulder back with the screw driver until it is held 
by the catch on the locking lever made for the 
purpose. 3. Knock out the pin that holds the breech 
block, and take out the breech block, lever and cart¬ 
ridge extractor at the same time. 4. Bring the ham¬ 
mer to full-cock, so as to release the locking shoulder, 
and then uncock it, pressing it forward so as to re¬ 
lieve the tension of the springs ; knock out the 
large pin, and take out the hammer and locking 
shoulder together. 

To assemble : 1. Draw back the trigger to its 
usual place and insert the hammer and locking 
shoulder (placed together, as when taken out) into 
the receiver, pressing them forward so as to relieve 
them from the tension of their springs ; then insert 
the hammer pin, half-cock the hammer, and press 
back the locking shoulder until it is held by the catch 
on the locking lever. 2. Insert the lever, breech 
block and cartridge extractor placed together, put 
in the fulcrum pin, turn the heads or flanges of the 
two pins to their places against the binding screw, 
and turn it up to its place. 3. Open the breech in 
the usual way, or simply bring the hammer to full 
cock, when the locking shoulder will be released and 


364 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


the piece ready to operate. The ramrod is held in 
place by being screwed into the steel on the lower 
side of the barrel. 

Whitney New System Breech Loading Gun (made 
by Whitney Arms Company , New Haven , Conn .)— 
1, Receiver or Frame ; 2, Bottom Tang ; 3, Barrel; 
4, Breech Block ; 5, Hammer ; 6, Breech Block Ful¬ 
crum Pin; 7, Plammer Fulcrum Pin ; 8, Extractor; 
9, Mainspring ; 10, Trigger ; 11, Stud. 

To take appart the lock work : 1. Give the screw 
in the side of the frame or receiver (that holds the 
two large fulcrum pins) a few turns to release the 
flanges or heads of the two pins, then turn them 
away from the screw a little. 2. Place the hammer 
on the full cock, open the breech half way, knock 
out the pin that holds the breech block and the ex¬ 
tractor screw in the side of the receiver, then take 
out the breech block and cartridge extractor at the 
same time. 3. Uncock the hammer, pressing it for¬ 
ward so as to relieve the tension of the spring; 
knock out the large pin and take out the hammer. 

To assemble the lock work: 1. Draw back the 
trigger to its usual place, and insert the hammer 
into the receiver, pressing it forward so as to relieve 
it from the tension of the spring ; then insert the 
hammer pin and cock the hammer. 2. Insert the 
breech block and cartridge extractor, placed together, 
put in the fulcrum pin, turn the heads or flanges of 
the two pins to their places against the binding 
screw, and turn it up to its place ; then put in the 
extractor screw. 


TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING. 


365 


Winchester Magazine Gun.—{Made by Winchester 
Arms Co., New Haven, Conn.) —To take apart: 

To take out the barrel: Take out the two tip 
screws, the magazine ring pin, pull out the maga¬ 
zine tube, and take off the forearm; then, before 
unscrewing the barrel from the frame, the breech 
pin must be thrown back by moving the finger-lever 
forward, otherwise the attempt to unscrew it will 
break the spring catch that withdraws the cartridge, 
and ruin the breecli-pin. 

To remove the breech pin model of 1866 : After 
removing the side plates and links, the spring-catch 
must be next taken out, which is done by moving 
the breech-pin back so that the pin that holds the 
spring catch will be in a line with a corresponding 
hole through the frame; then with a small steel 
wire punch out the pin, then move the breech-pin 
forward and take out the spring catch ; the piston 
can then be unscrewed with pliers or hand vise, first 
setting the hammer at full cock, or taking it out. 

In models of 1873 and 1876 : After removing the 
side plates and links, take out the link pin and re¬ 
tractor ; the piston can then be pulled out with the 
fingers, first removing the hammer or setting it at 
full cock. Should the main spring require strength¬ 
ening it can be done by turning up the strain-screw, 
which will be found directly under it, on the under 
side of the frame. 

Remington's Rifle Cane.—{Made by E. Remington 
& Sons Tlion, N. Y .)—Directions for using: To 
load, unscrew the handle or breech from the body 


366 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


of the cane ; insert the cartridge and replace the 
handle, drawing back the handle will cock the piece 
ready for firing, when pressing on the trigger- knob 
underneath will discharge it. Do not press on the 
trigger-knob when the piece is being cocked. 

The lock-case or breech may be closed by a slight 
pressure upon the spring sight. 

For hunting or target practice, remove the tip or 
ferule at the muzzle. If it is required to use the 
arm suddenly, as for self-defense, it is not necessary 
to remove the tip. 

To remove the lock-case, remove the ferule under 
the handle by driving it down, take out the pin un¬ 
der the ferule, draw out the handle, draw the cane 
to full cock and press down and back the trigger, 
unscrew the lock from the barrel and push the cock 
out at the top end of the case. 

In replacing the lock be careful to get the slot on 
a line with the guide inside of the case, and press 
down the sight spring. 

Billings’ Breech Loading Shot Gun .— {Made by 
Billings & Spencer , Hartford , Conn .)—This arm is 
provided with a backward and upward moving 
breech block in the rear of the cartridge, the 
breech block turning backward upon the hinge, 
which is a more natural motion than a forward turn. 

To open the breech for loading, half cock the 
piece ; draw the locking bolt with small handle on 
right side, and pull towards you; this retracts the 
firing pin, also extracts the shell automatically at 
the same time. 


TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING. 


367 


The Fox Breech Loading Shot Gun.—{Made by 
American Arms Co., Boston, Mass .)—To take apart: 
To detach the barrels, first open the gun as if for 
loading, which is done by pressing forward the 
thumb-piece on the top of the stock; then with the 
left thumb at a point about two inches from the end 
of the barrels, press the barrels towards the right 
and the gun is in position to load. Next turn the 
gun over in the right hand, holding it by the small 
of the stock, the end of the stock under the elbow 
supporting the weight of the gun; with the left 
thumb press the extractor home, and, with the 
thumb placed on the extractor spring, as close up 
to the fore end as convenient, press down the ex¬ 
tractor firmly, and gently swinging the stock to the 
right until the detachment is obtained. 

To attach the barrels again, grasp the barrels 
with the plate up, so that the large screw at the 
head of the plate comes about at the center of the 
hand; be sure that the extractor is home. Place 
the opening for the screw which is in the breech- 
plate, over the screw, with the stock at an angle of 
about forty-five degrees with the barrels, at the 
same time put the left thumb on the end of the fore 
end, holding it firmly and flat on the plate, the 
stock-plate covering the guide-pin next the screw 
on the barrels, but not the pin on the extractor; 
gently move the stock until the two plates come 
into perfect contact, when the barrel will swing 
into position. 

To remove the extractor, detach the barrels from 


368 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

the stock, lay them on a table with the plate up and 
muzzle from gun; pull out the extractor as far as it 
will come readily, then turn it to the left until the 
short arm strikes end of the barrels; now draw it 
straight out, meanwhile holding a finger over the 
extractor button to prevent its springing out and 
getting lost, when the button and locking stud will 
fall out of their own weight. 

To replace the extractor, lay the extractor button 
in its cavity and slide the long shank of the extract¬ 
or through it, then place the locking stud in posi¬ 
tion, holding it snug against the rear end of its seat, 
run the extractor into it, solid home, and turn to 
the right till the short arm is opposite its hole, when 
push straight in. 

To take out firing pins, remove the screw holding 
them, which will be found in the breech-piece at the 
rear of the scroll-fence. 

The Lefever Hammerless Gun.—{Made by Daniel 
Lefever , Syracuse , N. F)—Locks are rebounding. 

To take apart : To take off the lock, see that 
both hammers are down ; take out lever-screw; 
remove lever ; turn out lock plate screw and drive 
off right hand lock by tapping on head of lock plate 
screw ; take out the screw and inseih in sear hole, 
and drive off left hand plate. 

To take out the hammers, turn in the screws in 
bottom of the frame until the mainspring will allow 
the hammer to drop back far enough to allow its 
being lifted out of the frame. In putting back, be 
careful to press the projection on the lever on top of 


TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING. 


369 


the spring that holds it, up to place, before putting 
the lever-screw in. 

Parker Double-barreled Breech-loading Shot Gun. 
{Made by Parker Brothers , Meriden , Conn.) —1. 
Finger piece. 2. Guard. 3. Lifter. 4. Locking 
bolt screws. 5. Locking bolt. 6. Barrel lug. 7. 
Trip. 8. Trip spring. 11. Extractor. 13. Joint 
Roll. The finger piece is solid and a part of lifter. 

Pressing up the finger piece in front of guard 
raises the lifter, and its beveled side coming in con¬ 
tact with the locking bolt screw, acts as a wedge to 
draw the locking bolt from the mortise in the lug, 
and releases the barrels so that they tilt upward 
ready to receive the cartridges. When the bolt is 
back to the position shown in Fig. 2, the small hole 
which is drilled in the under side of the bolt comes 
directly over the trip, which, by the assistance of 
the trip spring, is made to enter the hole in the bolt 
and thereby hold it in position. 

For cleaning, it can be very easily removed by 
taking off the locks and removing the locking bolt 
screw from the end of the locking bolt, then press 
down on the trip, which will allow the lifter to be 
withdrawn without removing either stock, guard or 
trigger-plate. 

To replace the plunger: Withdraw the cone with 
a common screw-driver, by pressing it against the 
plunger until the screw-driver enters the slot. After 
removing the plunger and spring, be careful to re¬ 
place them with spring at side of plunger. 

Remington Double-barreled Breecli-loading Shot 


370 THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 

Gun. {Made by E. Remington & Sons, Bion, N. Y.) 
—A, thumb piece; B, lever, engaging locking 
bolt; C, pivot of lever B; D, locking point; H, 
joint check; K, pivot pin; L, joint check screw, 
limiting motion of barrels; M, hammer lifter; N, 
extractor; O, wire, a shoulder of which rests against 
P; P, shoulder of dog engaging locking bolt; S, 
snap action spring. 

To take apart: To remove the barrels, take off 
the tip-stock, full cock both hammers and press the 
thumb-piece (between the hammers, and used for 
unlocking the barrels for loading) upward as far as 
it will go. The barrels can thus be detached. 

In Fig. 3, the locking bolt is drawn as far as the 
shoulder P will allow it to move. This shoulder 
P is formed on one side of a little dog, in the other 
side of which is a corresponding shoulder, rest¬ 
ing against the wire 0. So long as the tip-stock 
is in place this dog cannot yield or permit the lock¬ 
ing-bolt to be drawn far enough to allow the joint- 
check to come out of the mortise in the frame; but 
when the tip-stock is removed, the wire 0 can slip 
part way out, as in Fig. 4, allowing the shoulder P 
to move back, so that the locking-bolt can be drawn 
back clear of the joint-check—thus releasing the 
barrels. 

The Roper Four-shooting Shot-gun and Rifle. 
{Made by the Billings & Spencer Co., Hartford, Conn.) 
—A, frame; B, receiver; B 1 , hinged lid of receiver; 
C, hammer; D, plunger; D 1 , head of plunger; E, 
plunger link; F, cartridges; G-, carrier in which 


TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING. 


371 


shells are placed; H, lever to revolve carrier; I, 
mainspring; J, sear; a , ratchet; b, stirrup; c , link 
connecting hammer with mainspring; d , pin of 
lever H; e, pivot of carrier G; /, firing pin; h, elastic 
tail of lever H. 

To take apart: To take the gun apart, turn in 
the set screw on under side of cylinder forward of 
the guard plate screw, until it comes to a stop. 
Then bring the hammer to cock notch and unscrew 
the cylinder from breech. N. B.—This set screw 
turns in to take the gun apart, and turns out to 
fasten the cylinder. 

In putting the gun together, screw up the breech 
until the set screw can be replaced. This screw 
should be turned sufficiently tight to prevent any 
looseness of the breech. 

To take off the stock and expose the lock, take 
out the long screw that runs through the small, 
rear end of receiver on top, and the screw in the 
guard plate which fastens it to the receiver under¬ 
neath in front. Then remove the stock, and the 
working parts are exposed and can be readily 
cleaned and oiled. The firing pin should be de¬ 
tached occasionally, cleaned and oiled, as its easy 
working insures certain fire. To do this, take out 
the small screw' in the top of the hammer and 
remove the piston entirely from the receiver, and 
the piston and firing pin are readily separated. In 
replacing the piston, care should be taken to put it 
in right side up. the retractor spring being at the 
bottom. Never attempt to take out the screw 


372 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


which fastens the link to the piston, until the 
firing pin is detached. 

Coifs Revolver For Army Use , Cal. Ifi.—{Made 
by the Colt Pat. Fire Arms Co ., Hartford , Conn .)— 
A, barrel; B, Frame; B 1 , recoil plate, C, cylinder; 
DD, firing pan; D 1 , center pin bushing; E, guard; 
F, back strap; G, hammer; H, main spring; I, ham¬ 
mer roll and rivet; J, hammer screw; K, hammer 
cam; L, hand and hand spring; M, bolt and screw; 
N, trigger and screw: 0, hammer notches. P, firing 
pin and rivet; Q, ejector rod and spring; Q 1 , ejector 
tube; R, ejector head; S, ejector tube screw; T, short 
guard screw; U, seat and bolt spring (combined) 
and screw. V, back strap screw; W, main spring 
screw; X, front sight; Y, center pin catch screw. 

To take apart: To dismount the pistol, half- 
cock the hammer, loosen the centre pin catch screw; 
draw out the centre pin, open the gate, and the cyl¬ 
inder can then be withdrawn. To remove the 
ejector, turn out the ejector tube screw, then push 
the front end away from the barrel and pull it to¬ 
wards the muzzle. The stock can be removed by 
turning out the two screws just behind the ham¬ 
mer, and that at the bottom of the strap. Remove 
the main spring and trigger guard; the parts of the 
lock can then be readily separated. The cylinder 
bushing should then be pushed out for cleaning. 
To remove the gate, turn out a screw in the lower 
side of the frame (hidden by the trigger guard), then 
the gate spring and catch can be withdrawn, and 
the gate can be pushed out. 


TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING. 373 

To assemble the pistol, follow the directions for 
dismounting in reverse order. The mainspring is 
most conveniently mounted by turning in the screw 
part way, then swinging around the front end of 
the main spring until it bears against the under side 
of the friction roil. The cylinder bushing should be 
frequently removed for cleaning. 

North's Patent Revolving Pistol .—To take the 
pistol apart, take out the screw in the forward end 
of the lock and barrel frame, which runs through the 
base-pin, then draw back the operating lever so as 
to bring the hammer to the half-cock, turn the 
cylinder round by hand until the mortise in the back 
end of the cylinder is found, which mortise connects 
the cylinder with the recoil shield; then unlock the 
rammer and draw it and the base-pin out; the cylin¬ 
der is then left free to be taken out. When the 
cvlinder is taken out be careful not to leave the 
spiral spring which lays in a recess made in the front 
end of the cylinder, and in putting together be care¬ 
ful to replace this spring. 

To take the lock apart, first take out the main and 
lever springs winch are both held by one screw; then 
take out the hammer, next the small screw connect¬ 
ing the lever with the link of the toggle-joint (this 
screw is in the lever on the outside of the pistol just 
back of the trigger). Next bend up the toggle-joint 
and take out the lever and trigger, which are both 
held by one screw; then take out the toggle-joint 
and revolving lever, which are connected together 
by two serews. 


374 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


To put the lock together, first put in the toggle- 
joint, then the main and lever springs, next the 
hammer, then the lever and trigger; next screw the 
revolving lever to the toggle-joint. 

To put the cylinder in its place, first put the recoil 
shield (the piece with ratchets made for turning the 
breech) into its place and draw back the operating 
lever so that the hammer will come to full cock, at 
the same time pressing back the recoil shield as far 
as it will go, still holding back the operating lever; 
see that the spiral spring is in place in front of the 
cylinder, put the cylinder in place, let the projecting 
pin on the recoil shield come into the mortise in 
back end of cylinder; then put base-pin and rammer 
to place and turn in the screw which holds it. 

The Remington Revolver (Smoot's Patent , made 
by E. Remington & Sons , Ilion , N. Y .)—To load : 
Half-cock the hammer; then turn the cylinder 
around so as to bring the chambers in line with the 
opening in the recoil shield, in which position the 
cartridges can be inserted, or the empty shells ex¬ 
tracted by means of the rammer on the side of the 
barrel. 

To remove the cylinder: Half-cock the hammer, 
then slide forward the stud in front of the cylinder 
through which the extractor rammer operates. The 
cylinder is replaced in the same way, but it is gen¬ 
erally necessary to turn it in its seat to get the pawl 
out of the way before the centre pin will enter the 
hole in the cylinder. 

To take the arm apart for cleaning: Remove the 


TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING. 375 

cylinder ; then take out the two screws for holding 
the guard to the frame. When the guard is taken 
off, all the lock work is accessible for cleaning. 

In order to keep a revolver in good condition, the 
cylinder should be taken out and oiled before putting 
it away after firing. The centre pin should be re¬ 
moved and cleaned to prevent it from rusting and 
impeding the rotation of the cylinder. 

The Remington Magazine Pistol — (Rider’s Patent. 
Made by E. Remington & Sons , I lion, N. Y.) —To 
load: Draw the tube from the magazine; hold the 
pistol barrel upright; drop the cartridge, rim down¬ 
wards, into the magazine; when full, insert the feed¬ 
ing tube in the magazine and lock in place by turn¬ 
ing the caps and engaging catch in the notch under 
the barrel. 

To fire: Grasp the pistol in the usual manner, 
press the thumb upon the breech-block, carrying the 
block downward until released from the recoil 
shoulder; then draw the block and hammer back¬ 
ward until the hammer engages in the cock notch; 
then let the block forward by an easy motion and 
the cartridge will be carried into the chamber; the 
pistol will remain at full cock and is discharged by 
pulling the trigger. In case the pistol should be 
loaded, and cocked, and not needed for use, the 
cartridge in the chamber may be returned to the 
magazine by simply drawing back the breech and 
pressing the carrier downward until the cartridge is 
in position to enter the magazine, then letting the 
block forward. This is to insure safety in carrying. 


376 


THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL. 


The principle of this arm is such that the same mo¬ 
tion cocks the hammer and carries the charge from 
the magazine to the chamber. 

Schofield , Smith & Wesson Revolver , cal. If).— 
{Made by Smith <Sc Wesson, Springfield , Mass .)— 
To dismount the pistol: The only part of the 
pistol which will ordinarily require removal is the 
cylinder, which can be taken out as follows: Turn 
the cylinder catch just 180 deg., as indicated by the 
notch on its head; open the pistol; press up the 
head of the catch until it clears the cylinder; draw 
out the cylinder; replace it in inverse order. 

To remove the cylinder and ejector of the pocket 
pistols, open the pistol until the piston protrudes 
half way, raise the barrel catch and turn the 
cylinder two turns to the left . 

To replace the cylinder and ejector, open the 
pistol to its full capacity, raise the barrel catch, 
press the cylinder forward upon the base pin and 
give it tioo turns to the right. 

The Automatic ( Merwin, Hulbert & Co.) is so 
simple in its arrangements as to need no directions 
for assembling or taking apart. 


•^FINIS.8* 










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